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  1. Today
  2. Cheapskate

    (In Win 901) Asteria II: Rearmoured

    Neatly done. :D I tried McMaster Carr to try and find those. You were right. they only had flush-fit. 6-32 standoffs: Nearly all the cases I've gutted over the years used 6-32 male and female thread motherboard standoffs. You made me wonder if it's some US-only thing. -6-32 in the motherboard area and old serial ports, 4-40 on all gpu connectors.
  3. That and Defiant's rig. If you are going RGB, go all in. This came out great. The inner coverings really clean it up.
  4. Cheapskate

    Project Timeless Warriors

    I don't think the tiny houses are a bad idea. It fits the theme pretty well.
  5. Cheapskate

    Mod Zoo Podcast Listener Q&A Thread

    You made me think I missed the podcast for a second, Fannblade.
  6. Yesterday
  7. FannBlade

    Mod Zoo Podcast Listener Q&A Thread

    Awesome PodCast! So much I could comment on...but now my brain is on fire when you brought up Amazon! Someone please teach them to pack products,all your high end electronics go in bottom of box with a piece of packing paper on top. Good to hear from the group again. Keep them coming so I know I'm not the only idiot around sharp objects!
  8. LePhuronn

    (In Win 901) Asteria II: Rearmoured

    OK, about those glass side panels. The drive to retain as much of a stock look for the case as possible extends to keeping the same thumbscrews for the glass panels, so given I was replacing parts of the case which have panel mounts on them I needed to rebuild those mounts to fit the screws. Now although they're standard 6-32 threads, it took me a while to find brass standoffs that were 6-32 on both sides; usually they're 6-32 male and M3 female. Also they needed to be about 5mm in diameter too in order to fit the rubber grommets and mate with the glass. Turns out I shouldn't have bothered ๐Ÿ™„ Eventually found some, marked up the new holes, tapped them into place and then realised they were too long. Not a problem, I'll just cut them down to fit, but then I realised a major error in judgement. Firstly, by chopping down the standoffs, there was very little female thread left to screw into, so there was no way the tempered glass could be supported safely even if the thumbscrews could actually go in. Then I realised that In Win had used through hole self-clinching threaded standoffs. This is how their thumbscrews would fully seat into the case and support the tempered glass. So after carefully inspecting some of the original case parts, I tracked down the exact PEM fastener required, but the company in question no longer dealt with private customers, and I couldn't find any Chinese knockoffs (unlike my flush nuts). So I resolved this by doing something I didn't want to do: irreversibly cut up the original case ๐Ÿ˜ข These particular standoffs fit into place by cold-forming sheet material into a little channel between its main body and a flange. As a result there's no welding or such required to get them in. So, by cutting into the aluminium either side of the standoff's main body, the material around it is actually no longer attached to anything. Gently pry it off and the standoff is released. Since these things are steel pressed into aluminium, there's no deformation at all and can be re-used. So give them a quick sand down to remove the paint and get a proper through hole cut into my tabs (5.6mm in this instance). Then apply pressure. And in they pop! My half ton arbor press was sufficient for the pressure, but I had to use a chunky M8 spacer I had floating around as a makeshift anvil. Worked nicely though. Unfortunately I couldn't get the arbor press into position for the main body where we have this big B-shape series of folds. So I used my body weight instead; laying the fully folded, tapped and drilled final body work down onto a piece of MDF with a hole in it, putting a dome head screw into the backside of the standoff placing a couple sheets of material onto the screw head and then generating half a ton of pressure by balancing on one foot and doing squats is really, really not how I want to insert these things. There was this big pop and I did not know if the standoff had gone in or if I'd trashed the whole damn thing. It was the former. Beautifully stock.
  9. LePhuronn

    (In Win 901) Asteria II: Rearmoured

    Greetings to all! Blimey, it's been a while. 2018 wasn't the most fantastic year so many things were shelved, delayed and ignored but work does continue (albeit very slowly) and I thought I'd share some success with you. Cast your mind back to my pump placement issues (or go have a read if you're new here - welcome ๐Ÿ˜Š). I'm very happy to say a significant step has been made in resolving it: the DDC is finally in! After all the toing and froing regarding measurements and poor accuracy, I confirmed that the distance from the edge of the GTX Titan and the glass side panel gave me an operating width of 43mm. DDC heatsink bodies are on average 20mm tall and my choice of pump top is a further 20mm. Factor in some manufacturing tolerance and the combined pump+top is 42mm tall. What that doesn't factor in though are the fins on the bottom of the DDC heatsink, which add 5mm, and DDC tops traditionally are fed from the top. All in and we're too big to fit. I've already discussed modding the Aquacomputer DDC top to have a side feed and using a custom stainless steel plate to seal off the top feed, so that keeps the top down to 20mm, but it was the heatsink that was the major issue. The first plan was to just chop the fins off my Alphacool heatsink. Because Alphacool use a very thin thermal pad, removing the fins would reduce the heatsink to 19mm. Nice, but then put 1.5mm back on for my mounting bracket and we're up to the limit again. Plus, I didn't fancy the idea of getting nickel everywhere from cutting and filing, and I know I'd just want to strip it down and replate to keep things tidy. Same deal with the EK heatsink; easy enough to strip the anodising off the aluminium, but then it would need recolouring. But then I noticed Barrow take a slightly different approach. Barrow's heatsinks are actually in 2 parts: a chunky piece of aluminium which does the actual heatsinking and a thin body ring. Could I combine then the actual heatsink portion and mounting bracket? That would save a lot of space. So I grabbed one and redesigned my mount. Believe it or not I actually cut this by hand! Scruffy? Yes. But I'm stoked to get the end result that good with just a step drill, coping saw and a rubbish wrist ๐Ÿ˜‹ Quick assembly to ensure my mounting holes are correct... ...and then fold that bottom tab into place. Nice job, but does it actually work? So far so good, but there's supposed to be a computer in there... Hot damn that's tight, but it's not actually touching the Titan. Major win (and relief) #1 Now, in a perfect world the entire pump assembly would fit within that 43mm operating space so I can put the side panels back on with no further mods, but if need be I can put in a 1mm spacer to just edge the panels out without issue. Do I need to? Maybe. The pump mount is almost flush with the case tabs that hold the side panel mounts. If the mount is flush then the glass will press on the pump and we'll get vibration and noise. But 1mm in this build is acres of space so I'm not too concerned right now. Now at this point I'm still just test fitting for viability. As a result I'm using standard dome head M4 screws to bolt everything together. The head height for those screws though is 2.3mm so of course they're not going to work. But the plan is to use countersink screws and get them flush with the mount. Golden! Major win (and relief) #2 What I've not shown you here is a small failure. I'm using 1.5mm aluminium and the countersink M4 head is 2.3-2.5mm, so I wasn't sure if I could just slap a countersink into the mounting bracket given I'm missing almost 1mm of material to cut into. The idea at this point was to JB Weld spacers to the inside surface and give me more material to form the countersink. These spacers would also serve as proper alignment feet for the Barrow heatsink ring given it's just 8mm through holes and slides around the screws as you tighten up. The Mod Gods were merciful and I found some perfect spacers: M4 tight through holes (4.1mm) and 8mm diameter. Perfection ๐Ÿ˜‰ Nickel-plated brass though, but they won't be visible so didn't matter if paint didn't take, but a quick rasping on the mating surface got rid of the nickel there ready for the JB Weld. The JB Weld didn't take though as a 2mm ring just wasn't enough surface to adhere to and take the pressure of grinding down a countersink cone. Plus it was possibly the hardest form of brass in the universe. So the spacers popped off, but wonderfully the countersink in the aluminium took perfectly without deforming! Nice bit of luck there. For now I've slid the spacers inside the barrow body ring so they can still serve as alignment holes, but for the build proper I'm going to drop in some 16mm long nylon spacers to fill the gap from the pump top's alignment feet and the mount, hopefully providing a bit of support so I don't warp the countersinks as the entire assembly is tightened. So moment of truth then. Does the glass panel actually fit back on? Oh yeah ๐Ÿ˜€ Glass side panel perfectly screwed in. I can actually give the pump a push from the other side of the case and it doesn't knock against the glass. Major win #3 Speaking of the glass panels, I never actually told you about them either. Stay tuned...
  10. Kazuma

    Mod Zoo Podcast Listener Q&A Thread

    LMAO! You think Kyle is gonna get triggered again with the "Buoy" pronunciation? I can't go with the "'Aluminum" since he already admitted "Aluminium" is not right. ๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ˜
  11. Bill Owen

    Mod Zoo Podcast Listener Q&A Thread

    dude, you just created our entire episode.
  12. Kazuma

    Mod Zoo Podcast Listener Q&A Thread

    Munkeys! Questions! First off, ever since the last podcast, where/how has everyone been? Any major changes in general in life? 2nd, for the past 2 years, have you guys finished some projects? Or do you have any current ones that you are working on now? 3rd, for the past 5 years, what was the most innovative thing in your opinion that "pc parts" companies have done in your opinion? 4th, what was your most "hated" trend that manufacturers did(I'm looking at you RG-Bill!)? I never really liked the "TG" side panels for 2 reasons, once it breaks, it's hard to make one and second, it adds to the total weight of the rig. Compared to acrylic, it's light and you can almost find one anywhere. 5th, where do you guys think the modding scene is heading to? I have noticed, in my opinion at least, modding is "dying" now. Everyone is all about the greatest and the latest, and not about the "artistic direction" (as EEL said from a previous podcast) anymore. Most of the time, nowadays, most people would ask "what's the spec of this", instead of "how the hell did you made that part of the project" question. 2 questions for Cheapskate. Is Gwass Gween still alive? And, did you ever kept that "ultra sonic" toothbrush that found on the couch before(I am god damn hoping you sterilized that sh*t first before you kept it if you ever did)? One question specifically for "Khaos" Kyle, did you upgrade your xbox controller to a wireless one to control the warship? Did you test it out to see how accurate you can hit a "buoy" using the wireless controller? ๐Ÿ˜› I miss listening to your podcast while sitting my as* in the office guys. I'm hoping you can get back to "regular" one episode per month.
  13. rchiileea

    Project Timeless Warriors

    Wow itโ€™s been a while with any update so this will be a longer than normal post. First off the GPU blocks have arrived (eureka) so letโ€™s take a look at them. Overall I like the design of these BP-VG2080RD-A2 blocks and they are also very heavy. One thing I did like about this design is the use of the extra support for block on the back bracket A nice small addition to help with the support of the heavy block, now shall we see how they look in place with the covers. To be honest I was now at an small stall, waiting for a few more things to turn up so I thought I would figure out a cunning plan to hide the cables coming out of the PSU, despite them being mostly hidden by the top anyway. Also something to aid in my plan of having green gpu cables both sides to represent bamboo and tie in with the Japanese/samurai theme of it all. So being me, I ordered to self-construct type Japanese houses and 2 watch towers for this sort of placement, thus hiding the psu output cables and guiding the green cables to the gpus, of course I will be painting them to match the colour schemes of each side. Wanted to hide these cables specifically with the houses. After doing this and despite knowing the houses wonโ€™t be hardly visible with top back on, I still wanted to spruce them up a bitโ€ฆ but first let me show you how this looks in I know some people wonโ€™t like this idea, but I love it and it ties in with the theme, and wanted them to match the theme, translation of writing is dragon clan, then tiger clan on the matching sides to match the engraving. And know I wonโ€™t ever do stencils this small again and then hand paint them on (more on that later in post). The most shocking part of this stage is working out how to hide nearly 38 meters of cables and lighting in the desk :O. On another note, I also decided to mod one of the bitspower hex tanks, the one for the black and gold side already had a black dragon on it (bitspower logo) I decided for the tiger side of the build I would try to make something not like bitspower logo, but very similar with tiger logo. I made this with vinyl. It should match the general theme of one side of engraving being a tiger and samurai and one side being a dragon and samurai. Now I did warn this was going to be a long post, so Iโ€™ll start by mentioning I am now lucky enough to be permanently sponsored now going forward by airbrushes.com on this a future builds (wish it would of arrived before I done the houses ๐Ÿ˜› and hence my comment of I will not be hand painting ever again and can get back to airbrushing stuff again. Hopefully I get the rest of the stuff soon to finish this massive project, on a plus note I donโ€™t have to hand paint my planned stuff on the vanity cover on the bottom of the desk now this has arrived J Mod notes to do list, fittings for gpu blocks to connect to each other to do, painting of vanity panel, tidying of the cables and extensions to go in and make acrylic covers for cable tidying inside the desk, fill and get air out of the loops, then sit and install windows on both machines and check for any conflicts or issues.. then book time to do photos and video of this epic piece.
  14. Last week
  15. Nice work, probably the only recent application of RGB I can actually get behind ๐Ÿ˜„
  16. Mosquito

    Zelda BOTW Mod by Ianovski Designs

    Turned out great! Nice work
  17. Final Photos! Gif of lights in motion here! https://i.imgur.com/YxVzBaV.gifv
  18. You're not wrong ๐Ÿ˜„ After doing some math I decided to get the lights their own PSU. Here it is: And after some handy dandy hiding magic... The power button is going to be installed in the top near the usb hub All the components! All the wires! Starting to hide the wires behind the mobo From here its going to be the finished photos!
  19. RcRon7

    Fractal-Design Define XL "The Cobra"

    That looks nice, this is coming along well.
  20. Ianovski

    Zelda BOTW Mod by Ianovski Designs

    Here are the final pictures! I wonโ€™t type to much and let the pictures speak for themselves but Iโ€™m happy with the final result and how much it resembles the first concept that we came up with. Of course the mod had to be inspected! Thatโ€™s it for this mod! I would like to thank all of our sponsors for making it possible! Iโ€™m already working on my next mod, which will be my own computer. Got some crazy ideas for that so stay tuned! Thanks for following and let me know what you think! Cheers!
  21. FannBlade

    Fractal-Design Define XL "The Cobra"

    Stay tuned guys. I'm moving to a new hosting site with https: and have a new Youtube channel coming online soon. Along with a shop move and I will need to get all paint work done since I don't plan on any paint work in the new shop. I will be moving toward all CNC work only. Pics should be back up in a few days and I hope to re-post all old videos on the new YT channel.
  22. Earlier
  23. Ianovski

    Bitfenix "Inspired by Nature"

    Thank you Bill. And yes, my goal was to make people look twice! Haha thanks! It has been a while ago I must admit ๐Ÿ˜› Could you tell me where Bill shared this?
  24. Mosquito

    new water cooling build

    Somehow this one got past me for a while... Kits are a great place to start. They're often not the greatest parts, but they will include enough parts to do what you need to, and you'll know they're all compatible. It's a good introduction into watercooling. The Mod Zoo and MNPCTech did a series on intro to DIY watercooling, starting with a kit to get started, and adding to it over time
  25. This is my biggest project for the Raspberry Pi. Spent MONTHS designing this, and over 100 test prints of various parts. This is essentially the final product. I may or may not add more to it later. If you have any questions, let me know. If you have ideas or suggestions for the next version, I'd love to hear them! Parts list below the video: This project wouldn't have been possible without the help of ModMyMods.com and their perfect little Raspberry Pi Cooling Kit. Stop by their website and find the parts to keep your next project cool! ModMyMods.com: https://modmymods.com/ Parts List: Raspberry Pi Cooling Kit: https://modmymods.com/modmymods-raspberry-pi-mini-water-cooling-kit-mod-0171.html Raspberry Pi 3 B+: https://www.adafruit.com/product/3775 PrimoChill ICE - UV Green: https://www.primochill.com/products/primochill-ice-intensified-low-conductive-coolant-32-oz-uv-green PrimoChill SysPrep: https://www.primochill.com/products/primochill-sysprep-cooling-loop-pre-treatment Thermal Glue: https://www.ebay.com/itm/151449306446 UV LED strip: https://www.ebay.com/itm/202135337154 Green push switches: https://www.ebay.com/itm/322067802424 12V power supply: https://www.ebay.com/itm/263059629108 5V power supply: https://www.ebay.com/itm/262631188471 Panel mount HDMI connector: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0746BYHPJ Inland PLA+ 3D Printer filament: https://www.microcenter.com/product/504209/premium-175mm-black-pla-3d-printer-filament---1kg-spool-(22-lbs 64GB Sandisk MicroSD Card - Class10/UHS-1: https://www.microcenter.com/product/455914/64gb-ultra-plus-microsdxc-class-10-uhs-1-flash-memory-card-with-adapter 18GA silicon coated wire spools - multi-stranded: https://www.microcenter.com/product/513471/18awg-flexible-silicone-wire---5-pack CoolerMaster MakerGel Maker Nano Thermal Paste: https://eu.coolermaster.com/en/cooling/thermal-compound/mastergel-maker/
  26. nitrousoxide10

    (Completed) Project: WhiteNoise

    As a Jets fan and a PC gamer/modder, I find it hard to look away from this build. Absolutely stunning!
  27. Mosquito

    Bitfenix "Inspired by Nature"

    haha I thought this one looked familiar when Bill shared it! It looks good
  28. Bill Owen

    (Completed) Project: WhiteNoise

    Well done bro, well done.
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