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  3. Great seeing you utilize your new router with custom parts!
  4. Last week
  5. now that all the parts are dry, we proceed with the peeling and assembly of the blackplate test leds card assembling
  6. realization of the LED backplate of the sapphire pulse 5700xt graphics card it is divided into 3 pieces, the underlying slab with RGB 4MM LEDs and the cover divided into 2 2MM pieces, leaving a glimpse of the underlying LEDs but let's start with order. rog-like strips preparation in theme with mod. if you make a mistake you have to redo the panel .... bending painting now all that remains is to wait for the next day and finish it.
  7. Mosquito

    Core x71

    Looks awesome!
  8. So after getting the glass top off, despite the setback of the paint not being easily removed, it's time to press on anyway... For those of you more video inclined, I have "Part 1" of the series posted: Using the original top panel some carpet tape, and a specialized router, I made a couple top panel windows After routing the pattern, the replacement top panel looks to fit quite well. This was another one of the "practice" pieces, in tinted acrylic to get an idea for how it would look The plan at this point, was to mask off the shape for the window, and then paint this top panel to hide the metal underneath, so I'm testing some paint samples here Planning out the hole I'm going to cut for the top window Then I cut out that window with the rotary tool and cleaned it up with a hand file And with the tape removed, this is about what the top window will give us a view to. Reason I only did the window in the back, is because I don't care about seeing the PSU. Plus, I'll need somewhere to hide the rats nest of wires πŸ˜„ Fast forward a couple months, and I ended up getting a CNC... so I tried out a new idea with the windows This allowed me to make the panel and the window separately, which will make it easier to paint the panel, and not screw up the window Next will be working on getting all the hardware I want to cram into this thing to fit effectively...
  9. after a pause he picks up the beast again we are at the final stages of assembling the RGB cable connection panels some shots next and last step to create a backplate for this ... once again thanks SAPPHIRE !!
  10. Earlier
  11. Skully

    Core x71

    Changed some fittings and new tubing,looks a bit more tidyish. Thanks for looking.
  12. Testing it all First test is the easy one. Knowing I'll only need the 12V supply, and I was likely to make a mess of the SATA power soldering, there are no traces for the 5V and 3.3V pins in the PCB, essentially giving myself breathing space if solder crosses over the connections. Also I can use the ground wire furthest from the 12V wire to avoid any short-circuiting there. Hooked up Sacrificial PSU, sacrificial motherboard (because I've lost my jump starter, don't have paperclips and don't have male ATX crimps to make one), Noctua fan to load the 12V rail, hit the switch and... Success! Bright, blinding, flaring success! I shan't put up another 3 pictures of the same blinding light, but suffice it to say all 4 headers work like a charm. The bigger test is the fan splitter. Initial load works perfectly. Full power going to the LED strip, nice and bright LED to glow that power icon. Didn't let it run for long as all that's coming off a single fan header on the motherboard 😬 The crunch comes tying everything together with the Asus fan extension card. I'm going to use the CPU fan header purely to monitor pump speed, so the 4 radiator fans will come off the extension card, and in turn one of those channels will drive the fan splitter so the 3 ML120s all work in unison. So let's set up a rat's nest of cables and boards. The chunky braided cable is female-female PWM fan cable coming off port 1 of the extension card and into the fan splitter for the trio of ML120s on the 360mm radiator. Port 2 will drive a Noctua NF-A12x15 sat on the single 120mm radiator. There will also be a Barrow temperature probe hooked into the extension card too. Excellent! And a quick test with the horrendous Asus Fan Xpert shows the ML120s reporting their RPM correctly and fully controlled through PWM. So, that's the PCBs covered in this neverending build log. Next up is to measure wire lengths for the proper fan cable and the front panel connectors and get those cable looms made up. Thanks for reading as always, stay safe and wash your damn hands 😎 Back soon πŸ‘
  13. Front panel and fan splitter I'm usually really ham-fisted with small, delicate work, but I'm really quite proud of this solder job, especially as it's been almost a decade since I last picked up an iron. Too much solder here and there, but nothing that can't be cleaned up with some braid later on. Gravity and through-hole soldering are an interesting combination, but complete nonetheless! Those LED holders look ace I must say. In retrospect I should've allowed for the 45 degree overhang in the design, but they were enough of a pain to print correctly at a mere 6mm tall without doing rounded bases and whatnot. Now, do you remember this? This is why I used a longer tactile switch at the end. The angle of the PCB and the recessed switch allow a few mm of movement for the aluminium tongue that forms the power switch. There will be a sliver of frosted or opal acrylic glued behind the power icon cutout which will just rest on the tactile switch. The 45 degree orientation of the LED then illuminates that acrylic sliver to give a nice glowy power icon when the system is running. Since nothing is assembled right now I don't have a picture, but a preliminary test works so very nicely. Also, the black In Win logo strip is illuminated too on the stock case, so I'll be keeping that motif with a small LED strip wedged in somehow and powered by the 2-pin connector behind the power switch. The other tactile switch and LED are reset and HDD activity, and it'll take a pin to activate that switch (by design though). Anybody would think I actually planned all this out πŸ™ƒ LED power splitter I'll be honest in saying I made so much of a pig's ear of the SATA power I'm not going to show you πŸ˜› so cute from above though 4 connections for 4 light sources. The SSD covers and motherboard light ring will hook into the bottom 3 headers, with the 4th spare just in case. Likely to be a small light source above the motherboard to give a bit of flood fill, but we'll see closer to the time. So all made up, but do they work?
  14. Well crikey, could it be there's an update to be had? There is indeed! Time for some soldering methinks...one for you, @Cheapskate πŸ˜‰ So, rejigging the case layout to accommodate the 360 radiator means there's no space to use the stock front panel connectors. The original plan was to veroboard some switches and LEDs together, but about 18 months ago (I know, I know) I thought "let's just go all-in with this project and make up everything custom I can". So out with the veroboard, in with some custom PCB design πŸ˜„ If you're looking at doing PCBs, I strongly recommend EasyEDA. The online editor is just incredible for creating your circuit schematics, hooking in real manufacturing parts and generating PCB layouts with proper footprints. EasyEDA is in the same group as LCSC for components and JLCPCB for PCB manufacturing, so you have a one-stop-shop to design, make and populate your custom bits. 4-pin fan headers and SATA power I sourced elsewhere, but the EasyEDA editor allows you to create your own component footprints too, so I grabbed the Molex specs and drew up the missing parts. And here we are! (Excuse the potato phone pictures, the room is very gloomy. Tidied up as best I can) No extra charge for black board, no extra charge for simmer board thickness, and 5 boards for very little money if you stay within a 100x100mm footprint. Winner. I know you're not going to see them once installed, but if Asus can put a ROG logo on their Thor PSU heatsinks then I can sure as hell brand my PCBs 🀣 Combination front panel interface and PWM fan splitter The rightmost fan header connects up to the Maximus VIII Impact's fan extension control board with the other 3 for the ML120s. There is also a 2-pin header on the very right edge sharing the 12V input for the fans which I'll be using for a tiny LED strip. Fortunately the fan extension control board is actively powered so I don't have to worry that 3 LED fans and a 12V LED strip will burn a motherboard header πŸ˜‰ All laid out... ...with a pair of tiny holders for the 1.8mm LEDs, also designed and printed by moi. 4-way 12V splitter board, SATA powered 1mm thick PCB rather than 1.6mm as it's mounted to the back of the hard drive plate, so there's only 8mm gap until the motherboard. The odd shape is to wrap around some large surface components on the back of the motherboard. Made me chuckle that JLCPCB threw in a magnifying glass as their token gift because that SATA power has 15 pins at 1.27mm pitch! My eyes don't work that small. So let's do this!
  15. The time has come to modify the fantastic INNO3D RTX 2080 SUPER TWIN X2 OC video card I build a backplate to be applied on the back leaving space for the connectors and logos, I remember that this card will be positioned vertically as provided by this sharkoon case I limit myself to using the same processing done for the panels so I will not post photos of the detailed processing I would not like to repeat myself . the power in my hand... hahahah video!!!
  16. RcRon7

    Core x71

    I think that Red is a better color with the lights out. Room lights that is, not the case lights
  17. Skully

    Core x71

    Thanks for the replys,its much appreciated. Changed the fluid and cables. Also thinking a bit further in the year to change the fittings to black ??? Thanks for looking.
  18. retouching the front panel, it was too empty I add some elements I took inspiration from the worn fl4k armor. acrylic silver application support panels these will give a more badass look final assembly
  19. DEEPCOOL logo bulkhead tempered glass etching, a well-established practice my inseparable friend ...
  20. mounting the motherboard on the pc and memories. it is necessary to fix the motherboard with spacers these vary according to the height of the cover, for forcing I always keep these screws when I get rid of an old case they can always be useful, on being fixed the cover. For those interested in creating one I invite you to take a look at my video at the tips and tricks section of my youtube channel since I am also mounting the felt pads under the feet to cushion vibrations ... it's time to fix the video card INNO3D 2080 SUPER TWIN X2 OC fantastic !!!
  21. it's time to pick up the cover of the motherboard that I was preparing, I was waiting for the AIO of the deepcool to see if I had to do further measures but luckily there is no need. I start immediately with a nice painted matt white. ora procedo con la grafica rigorosamente MSI.. I take advantage of it and I place the AMD processor a nice RYZEN 5 3500G arrived from my sponsor PC HUNTER now I proceed to the realization of the cover of the aio panel of the motherboard it is really bad to leave it uncovered it is 3 mm thick acrylic. anthracite gray paintwork after having applied the motherboard model, I proceed with the wear effect, the same procedure used for the internal panels or opacification with steel wool and file engraving. acrylic silver application temporary assembly.
  22. just dont touch anything or anyone, and we'll be fine.
  23. a friend of mine recently got a 3d printer and, naturally i've been taking full advantage of that getting a host of plates, brackets guides and minor tools designed and printed my cabels from Pexon came in so i had to cut the case a bit more to make room for the cabels down the back of the case so with that done i installed the cables and worked them in to place, here is a before and after one of the goals was to make the loop easy to work on and clean up the look of it, top side of the case just needs rotated cpu block and new tubing the bottom is however another challenge, in the image below you can see that the pump is basically wedged in place by the tube coming off the rad/res, so its impossible to remove easily, plan is to run the pump of a 90 degree bend of the backside of the 4 way block also the parallel tubes going to/from the cpu/gpu are not parallel with anything, not each other not the roof of the basement, this is because the radiator sits 4mm too far inside the case and would push against the fittings hopefully i can fix that soon. i'm currently working on learning fusion 360 but coming from sketchup is hard.. i'm waiting for my top motherboard tray bracket to be printed along with some more bending guides i drew up that's all for now
  24. new sponsor join to the mod ram and ssd from OCPC
  25. panels assembly today a big surprise came the inno3d video card ...... unboxing soon ...
  26. Well guys. Today we post the progress of the works. I proceed with the covers made previously, that is the upper and lower ones. After applying the matt anthracite paint I go with the graphics and wear. Upper door panel: Side panel with logo: I also drive myself with a file obviously all piloted ... Silver acrylic application on the cracks: roceed with the rest Case logo and removable top panel: Graphic application and metal wear effect:
  27. today another sponsor has joined the mod I'm talking about deep cool with its fantastic AIO gamer storm captain 240 PRO V2 enjoy this unboxing ... today I focus on the internal panels perhaps from the noin photos you understand well but later everything will be clarified better internally I will put 2 panels one top folded 5 times and a lower one folded in a shield way on the sides, these will serve to put the logos as well as giving a note of color more and some logo as well as filling spaces that remaining empty would not have a nice effect. questo Γ¨ il pannello superiore interno this the lower one paint color anthracite light gray and opaque with steel wool. today I focus on the internal panels perhaps from the noin photos you understand well but later everything will be clarified better internally I will put 2 panels one top folded 5 times and a lower one folded in a shield way on the sides, these will serve to put the logos as well as giving a note of color more and some logo as well as filling spaces that remaining empty would not have a nice effect. questo Γ¨ il pannello superiore interno this the lower one paint color anthracite light gray and opaque with steel wool.
  28. well ... the original feet of the case are not good they are too elegant you need something more tough that is in theme with the mod I decide to build them, but I'm not going to make six usual feet. I start with an aluminum strip .. they are composed of two parts, the top and the bottom, with two pins on the sides, in this way the case can settle itself, and there will be no problem that it is unstable rubber pads will do the rest. painted with anthracite gray, I do not put primer, the paint must come off easily to give a wear effect in theme with the mod. wear effect with steel wool .. lat first part it is fixed with rivets to the case .. final results.
  29. my intention is also to modify the motherboard to do this I have seen a number of guides for how to make a cover called "armor" first I download a photodelleìa motherboard from the manufacturer and with photoshop I bring it in full scale, after which by opening it in adobe illustrator I get the areas to be cut I got the mold outliner cu adhesive paper (I had a little to recycle) and I prepare the piece of acrylic (thickness 2 mm) cut, I noticed that my motor saw did not cut well the cut was inaccurate and I decided to open it to check .... and here's the surprise, years of braying on acrylic and tiny pieces have clogged the gears, I recommend to all modders who use it intensively to do a cleaning once a year everything is gone now finishing, the areas needed continuous checks and adjustments. now I stop here I wait for the deep cool AIO to check the socket area if it needs further adjustments but I would say that we are there.
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