Welcome to The Mod Zoo

Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to contribute to this site by submitting your own content or replying to existing content. You'll be able to customize your profile, receive reputation points as a reward for submitting content, while also communicating with other members via your own private inbox, plus much more! This message will be removed once you have signed in.

All Activity

This stream auto-updates   

  1. Today
  2. Now it's time to finish the loop and get this thing done. Or so I think... I started the loop like it's twin, in the front on the res. That bottom line was the tricky one and once I got it done, it was smooth sailing. Amazingly enough, on both builds, that piece went off without much of a hitch. I think I had to redo it once between both builds. And the rest of the loop was A to B making sure to keep everything straight. I filled it with Mayhems Dark Red. It just looks so nice in a loop. While doing the loop, I was also cutting out some acrylic side panels. They came out mostly OK. I've still got some measurements to work out to get the magnets to press fit, so I wound up gluing these. And then things got interesting when I booted the system. Everything worked, which is always a bonus, but... It's hard to tell, but I forgot to swap the colored light bar in the GPU block. Red fluid+green GPU lights is not an attractive thing. And if that wasn't enough. I swapped one of the original blue fans I bought for the Gunslinger in without knowing it. Not a big deal except the res pins the fan to the radiator. And I soldered the fan wires together. And there's no slack. It all amounts to a clean build, but a PIA to fix. So I drained the loop, pulled the GPU block and swapped the strip and then spliced in the right fan. Then filled it all back up. Little bit of drama, but in the end...perfect. And next up are final shots! Sponsored by:
  3. Ah the fun part, the loop. Nothing too crazy here running clear 1/2" od Primochill PETG in between Bill's hardline fittings. I do have one of the measuring and bending sets from Monsoon, but find that I actually get better results just bending by hand. I tackled the res first. The bottom bend was tricky, 3 bends, 3 planes, and no way to hold the piece in position to eyeball it. Heck I could barely get the finished piece in since it had to go through a slot under the rad just over 1/2" tall. Once the hard bend was out of the way, the rest was just figuring out what looked best. Ok, I'll admit that it wasn't that easy. I spent a few days looking at it and deciding where i wanted the lines to run, but once the planning was out of the way, running the loop was a matter of a couple of hours. The big thing was making sure everything was straight. And then I filled the loop with Mayhem's UV white pastel. I really only wanted white but ordered the UV by mistake. Oh well, it'll look cool in black light, LOL. Yeah, that run from the CPU to GPU is off. Sometimes you've got to get the fluid in to really get an idea of what it looks like. I thought it would be passable before I filled it, but wound up draining the loop to re-bend that piece. While I was working on the loop, I was also cutting acrylic side panels. They still need a bit more work but are passable. I thought I had the holes for the magnets figured out, but wound up having to glue them in instead press fitting them. That was a bit of a pain. But now we're ready for final shots! Sponsored by:
  4. Lemme reverse it.. Waterblocks (and roadblocks).. Those custom Alphacool blocks that ModMyMods did for me. So.. I learned something this week. Plans go awry, things break, and even the best-planned builds get sidetracked. I had originally planned to get some tubing routes done this week, but the universe had other ideas. First was noticing a small chip of glass in the bottom of the case. Hmm, not a good sign at any time, especially with a Tempered Glass case. Getting a RMA was easy (thanks Phanteks), but then having to ship it to Cali to get a replacement wasn’t ($65). Luckily was within Amazon’s return, so back it goes to them. Now.. I don’t have a case. Okay.. I decide to take apart my fans to repaint the housings.. as the rain starts. Took out my sleeving supplies to start on cabling, and realised that I’d only bought male ATX pins and I need female ones. Did do my first cable crimp though, which went smoothly and gave me needed confidence for when I do get the correct pins. Test cable sleeving on MNPCTECH Aluminum Billet Combs I love how the cable looks on those billet combs from Mnpctech, they’re gonna look great with all the other titanium/aluminum items in this build. So, bit of a mixed bag this week.. Haven’t really made any progress, but I’ve learned a few valuable lessons on the way. Check all your deliveries within a day of getting them, make sure you have the necessary parts (even if you’re sure you do), and always keep smiling — life’s too short to be grumpy and setbacks always happen.
  5. Yesterday
  6. Modding Cable Combs: I had to run SATA power to the OCZ Vector SSD which looked fine as it was but I wanted to organize them a bit more. I didn't have any 1 sided 5 pin cables combs so I decided to modify my own to make the SATA power cable more organized. I tool a CableMod 24-pin comb and cut into two pieces. Then I removed the other side and sanded it. I was able to test fit it and it works great. Finish work is still needed to get them looking perfect and I want to make a couple more. In the picture you can see that I tried a couple different ways to see which worked best. Now I have it down to what I like. I'll update once they're finished. Running & Organizing Cables: Now that most of the passthroughs are finished I can start running the CableMod cables and the rest of them needed throughout the build. There is a fair amount needed for this build but I planned routes really well ahead of time so it'll only require some minor modifications. The extra wiring will be placed in the floor cutout that I detailed earlier in the build log. I made the side notches in the cable tunnel a little but bugger to accommodate the power cables coming off the fan controller. This kept all the cables nice and organized.
  7. Ok, time for the Monday Modding Update! Getting down to the wire now, with about 10 days left in the competition. I was hoping to get the Speeder primed and all one color over the weekend, but things never work out the way you want. But I'm really close and should have it prepped and ready to paint this evening! Fingers crossed.. Anyway, here is what I did manage to get done.. Mounted the exhaust ports onto the bottom panel by cuttin a few holes to match the four pipes. Of course, in my haste, I cut the small holes too large and had to add a support piece in behind with the correct size holes. I used the plate as my template, but forgot that the small tubes were smaller at the other end. doh! Thankfully I didnt make the same mistake on the other side lol.. Onto the side panels. Luckily I didn't have to print any of this since they are just flat panels, and my printer is still down. So I used .08" thick styrene sheet. Going off the reference pics, I drew up the design for the panel sections and seams. I used thinner sheets to make the subpanels that break up the flat surface. I also curved the left end of the panel to create the waste-gate, or gills that are on each side of the speeder. A closer up shot of the front gill. I cut away the center portion of the front nose, and will add some wire mesh in behind for effect. Then I added some faux hinges on the right to simulate an access panel. Movin on to the other side, this panel will be a bit more involved, since it has the video card fans, and will have a window integrated into it so you can see all the PC components inside. After taking measurements withe the EVGA 1080 SC2 in place, I figured out where the fan grills were going to be, so I started cutting the slots out. Beginning with pilot holes for each slot, I used the scroll saw to finish the job. Slots cut, now I can figure out the rest of the panel, and where the window will go. I must have gone through 6 or 7 different designs before settling on one I liked. Even with the window as large as I could make it, I decided to go with a barn door style hinged panel so I could open it up completely. I finally get to use these acrylic hinges I've had laying around for a couple years. These will go on the window side.. ..and just standard metal hinges for the left. I'm splitting the barn doors right at the fan grills. Hinges on! And a close up of the acrylic hinges. Now with the panels finally done, I can start prepping for paint! I still have a few items left to fabricate, like the windshield, seat, and some random engine detail parts, but the main body is complete. I spent the last few hours on Sunday smoothing all the remaining parts with the epoxy putty, and will be sanding everything tonight, and hopefully get things primed. Then I'll be painting and detailing the rest of the week.
  8. Finished most of the fitment of the case, after this its sawing and filing the designs. I love this tiny SFX PSU, I've been wanting one for a while and I'll be using it in a lot of future builds.
  9. Hello everyone!! First of all I would like to thank all the sponsors and especially MSI for giving me this chance again to be part of the jury. I wish good luck to all competitors. My project this time, will be based on Thema Artic Design. I will try to do something with futuristic line along with some paintings of the hardware to harmonize in the final result. I'll use laser cut acrylics mixed with white and silver paint. I hope you like the result, I will post photos according to the progress of the project. CASE IN WIN 303 MOBO MSI B350 TOMAHAWK ARCTIC CPU AMD Ryzen7 1700X Processo COOLER MSI Core Frozr L RAM Kingston HyperX Predator DDR4 Memory 3000MHz 16GB (4GBx4) SSD Kingston HyperX Predator PCIE SSD 240G VGA MSI AMD RX 580 ARMOR PSU be quiet DARK POWER PRO 11 FANS be quiet SILENT WINGS 120 Keyboard MSI INTERCEPTOR DS4200 GAMING KEYBOARD Mouse MSI CLUTCH GM40 GAMING MOUSE BLACK Headset MSI DS502 GAMING HEADSET I would like to show all the hardware that I will use in the Artic Design project. Many thanks again to all the sponsors.
  10. The rest of the hardware came in this past week so let's see what we've got rounding out this build. For a GPU, there's the brand new MSI RADEON RX 580 ARMOR 4G OC. I've also got some nice peripherals that I'm gonna try and match to the build. The MSI INTERCEPTOR DS4200 GAMING KEYBOARD. The MSI CLUTCH GM40 GAMING MOUSE. And the MSI DS502 GAMING HEADSET. So with all the hardware in, it's time to get cracking on this project. The first thing I did was strip most of the case down and tape it all up. I'm wanting to keep the finish. It's the right color and looks pretty durable. I left some of the interior so I could measure a few things. Then I marked out a "safe" cutting area. This is where my design is going. Now to mark out the cases namesake. Wait. That doesn't look right... Ah, much better. Did I mention that I'm rolling the case onto its back? The front becomes the top and the top becomes the front and the layout is reversed. It'll take some work to make it functional, But I'm liking the flip. I took a Dremel and made some notches I could slip a jigsaw blade into. And then surgery. I didn't really go for precision with the jigsaw because I didn't want the blade to grab and bend anything. This InWin is thick aluminum, but I didn't really want to chance it. I'll go in with a grinder and take the rest of the material out. That is after I go get a better grinder for the job. Sponsored by:
  11. One nice thing about the Corsair Lighting Node Pro is that it has even more control over the RGB lighting than that provided by the HD Lighting Control included with the fans and case. Since the lighting hub now goes directly to the lighting node pro, there is no need for these two components of the HD Lighting Control. Spent a few hours trying to do something with all of the typical wires that always end up behind the motherboard. Normally not too difficult a task when the side panel is solid, but with a glass side panel it becomes a major undertaking. Still need to groom a few cables, but the majority are in place and tied down. Here is a shot of the interior of the case.
  12. Last week
  13. Thank you! I think it was you that said something about chain mail during one of the hangouts and I thought to myself "THAT'S WHATS MISSING!" So thank you for the inspiration! I hope it pulls the story/mod together.
  14. Hi! Apologies for the long delay. I've unfortunately not been able to work on this build for the past month as I've been absolutely swamped with other assignments, so I've had to put the project aside. I've just recently set aside the time to be able to continue working on the build so the updates will be more frequent from now. Finally I've completed the Reverse-ATX conversion and I can finally start measuring up the mounting for the remaining hardware such as the PSU and the watercooling. Here are a few pictures! I'm extremely satisfied in how it turned out, just waiting on the custom cut top panel to bolt together the case again.
  15. The EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti SC2 has arrived!!
  16. We could make handful last night, Contact Mnpctech with item description, your full name, address, and phone number, https://mnpctech.com/contact-us.html
  17. This is really coming along GREAT. Waiting on Bated Breath.
  18. I would have to rename it "Clean but Gimmicky Slate" You used to give me sh!t about using fake buttons and such.
  19. It really does scream for some nixie tubes and a row of big silver knobs.
  20. Haha glad I could oblige you Mr. Bungwirez! Here's my smoothing technique.. since directly sanding the PLA doesn't work too well (the friction just creates heat and gums up the plastic, making the surface more rough), I decided to coat the panels with an epoxy putty. It's a two-part system that you knead together into a dough. After a few hours it hardens to a strong but light-weight substance. Using gloves, I just smear the putty onto the surface of the panels. Once cured, it's much easier to sand than the PLA. I sand down until I start seeing the ridges of the PLA, leaving all the valleys filled. Here's the bottom panel. There are a few divots here and there, and I'll go back and spot fill those. After sanding all the panels, I had to throw them onto the case for an overall look. Then I decided to test the hovering capabilities as well.. Getting the repulsorlifts dialed in! Of course, once I add all the hardware, I'll have to re-adjust them to account for the added weight. :P Less than 2 weeks to go! Hope I can make it..
  21. Mr. Boddaker, I've been waiting for this mod! thank you Sir.
  22. Thanks man, you're right it does have a bit of a spaceship vibe to it.
  23. Making Passthroughs: The passthroughs went together fairly easy as I had already marked out where my holes need to go. The only tricky part is working with stainless steel. It's a lot stronger than most metals and I went with a step drill bit to make my 20mm holes. I also decided to run a vertical acrylic strip. I think doing so gives it a much cleaner look and it also looks more polished. The combination of acrylic and brushed stainless steel will look sharp. Alphacool Eislich Under Case Mount: I have a white Eislich light and a blue one. The plan is to use the white one inside the case so I thought the blue one would work best under the Dark Base 900 Pro. This works really well considering that the case has feet that keep it off the ground a bit. I didn't want to run wiring up the back as it would be noticeable no matter what so I decided to drill a small hole that was big enough to get the cable through. Once I had the Eislich mounted under the case it was a matter of running the cable through the bottom of the case. Luckily it is long enough that I won't need an extension to power it. After having it all mounted up I got my 1st look at it and I'm very happy. It gives a perfect flow without being overbearing. There's nothing worse than a light that's too bright. These lights also seem to play well with cameras. I didn't have to do any tricks or weird settings in order to directly photograph them which is an added bonus.
  24. Not really.. I look at the estimated print time at the time I set up the print, then compare it to the actual to see how accurate it is, but other than that I dont keep a running tally.
  25. It must feel like you're flying a spaceship! Sooo coool.
  26. Hey!! I received some packages today, the real "start" is coming soon Now, just have to wait for the hardware... can't wait A bientôt pour la suite
  27. So it has been a while since my last post but I actually wasn't quite finished with the build. The last few things kinda happened over a longer timespan and I didn't document most of it, so here are just some pictures of the end product or to be more precise the current form as I will certainly keep changing things. I also made a few Videos on my YT channel, you can check them out here: Or you can just watch the final part here: But if you aren't into videos, here are some pictures: All the pictures: So that was it for this buildlog, I will certainly keep making small changes but for the most part that's it. If you have any questions, leave them below and I will answer them.
  28. Update 4/20/17 Good morning DDCM fans! This is the moment everyone has been waiting for! We are complete with Project Military Tech and have our final pictures to show. Thank you all for the support you have given and the many bits of advice during this process. But in order not to spoil the goodness of a final update, I give you the final look at PMT! I hope you enjoyed the pictures.... here's a sneak peek of my next project. Until next time, Happy Modding!
  1. Load more activity
    Oh, God. How did this get here?
    You don't have permission to chat.