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  1. Past hour
  2. I have to wait for the Alphacool parts now, not much modding without that. The Alphacool guys are now in Taipei for Computex 2017 so it might take a while longer than usual until they have time to take care of my little order. Bad timing on my side XD . Eddy and Matthias if u read this i hope u have a good time there although i now that such tradeshows are stressful. But a made some Pics of the Stainless screws that hold the Alphatier together. Already over 100 Washers were used. No rivets will pierce this Beast XD
  3. Today
  4. I've made a fair bit of progress since last. A lot of sawing, filing and the edges sanded smooth. Drilled perforation holes for the PSU to breathe. Made a basement wall as well as a bottom panel. Painting is up next.
  5. Yesterday
  6. ......... and we put the buttons + inner tank tube installed
  7. I just wanted to update everyone and let you know i will be leak testing the IKONiK build once I get back from Computex and the CyberMods Competition. Shortly after leak tests I will bring taking final photos.
  8. thanks man! Next update I have decided to replace the tower 900 floor with acrylic, as I need space to have a drain system. So I am here now, need some harware, and I also added a video on the products that will be used at the link below. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XN6J3WD3G0E
  9. Hi guys, Here are the final photos! I hope you like it, I'm really happy with this one! The only thing that might need to be changed or improved is the light behind the Darth Maul face on the front panel. The white acrylic would need to be changed to opal and get some better lighting in there so that the front panel pops nicely in the dark. I'd like to say a huge thanks to the companies that helped me bring this project to life! Here we go! I'll start with the outside first! And here's the inside! Thanks for checking it out and stay tuned for a video once I get back from COMPUTEX! Cheers, Alex
  10. Hey guy’s, This weeks update. I have got the fluid from Nanoxia it looks great, I got the UV green and they did me a custom purple colour I have some photos below. I had some bad news this week having a issues with the custom res so I have made a new simple design this weekend and hopefully it will be cut in the next few days I have found this hard as I am using a friends CNC. I am looking at getting one myself which will help for future builds. I have took the ek waterblock off the 980ti and put the Alphacool Nexxos 980ti block on, this was so simple to do (one of the easiest installs ever)and the instruction are very simple to follow and all the thermal pads already cut to size I have added some photos below. I went and got the ram on friday 16gb corsair RGB, these are going to really suit the build they are matt black. I test these at the weekend photos below I ended the day putting window 10 on the system. Next update I am hoping for a big one, have a few more bits of perplex to cut and paint then one more pass through hole from the basement to the top rad then it’s off to paint. Thanks for checking out my build log any question or feedback leave below.
  11. Last week
  12. I am not a big fan of hard tubing. For Show builds or when you do not plan to change the hardware for a long time it is a good choice.But this is a more " easy" homemade situation Build, so i of course choose flex tubing. I use 13-10 tubing because i like the look.BUT If u start a new water cooling build i would recommend a 16-10 tube. The thicker Wals will bend better.I have used black Norprene tubing for a few years now and it is a very good tube, but i kinks quite fast (13-10 )A few months ago Mayhams announced Mayhems UV White Tubing (3/8 - 1/2) 10/13mm Tubing . And i used it in one of my other Builds.I really love the sleek white look ( i do not care about UV ) and so Alphatier will have white vains. I made a few pics
  13. And I'm all about the street cred! To be honest the Aquacomputer top I have right now doesn't have a spiral volute, the XSPC and EK ones don't either from what I can see. In a perfect world it'd be a great thing to have, but I honestly don't think it's a necessity. We'll see though, I have a cheap Acetal offcut coming for me to experiment with. If I can make the prototype and it works fine then I can remake a proper one, or maybe just dye the white Acetal black and be done with it Doing a custom top will fix quite a few issues with my pump placement, and will also be a great learning experience. Asteria II will benefit greatly from a custom pump top, Dioxidane (when it happens) is having a custom top purely for the hell of it
  14. Well that took a lot longer than I’d anticipated. Still have a couple of strands to put into the main 24-pin cable but happy with the results so far. Still have to sleeve various other things, but I’m going to let my fingers heal up before tackling those. Seeing these finished in a pile has given me renewed vigor to tackle the rest of the build. Alphacool NexXxos Fury X Waterblock Next stage is some mods to the waterblock for the Fury X that I’m using in this build, and to put the gpu loop together with flex tubing to test my desired config. Until next week, Mod On!
  15. I do not think I miss much (I hope)
  16. So, missing from the above is the routing of my loop, and my first question back to the 'zoo. After staring at this picture for a good 10min, here's the plan: Pump >> CPU >> GPU >> Top Res >> Front Res >> Pump Not clear in this pic is the orientation of the res/pump block. The inlet/outlet fittings will face into the case, which will expose the secondary outlet plug on the block (which you can see in one of the mock-up pictures in the first post). The top res is a cross flow, with the fittings by the MB tray at the rear and by the door at the front. I have a variety of 90* and 45* rotarys, and will be using soft tubing. I plan to keep my runs as short and straight as possible, limiting the number of bends/curves in the tube as possible. One day, I'll look at doing hard-line. Maybe. Now for my question: Where should I plan to fill and drain from? My gut reaction is to flip the case onto it's front and fill from the top of the res, which would allow me to fill it to the brim so I don't end up with an air-gap at the top of the res. This would require me to use a 90* and an extension tube, which I could then remove once it's filled. Draining, however, I have a few options. I can either (1) add a ball-check valve into my loop somewhere, or (2) just plan to drain from the secondary outlet port on the pump block. Here's my thinking on either option. Easier to drain, but hard to get to the 'lowest' point in my loop without making my short runs very ugly with lots of fittings. Requires more manipulation of the case to drain, but keeps the soft tubing runs much cleaner. If I flip the case onto it's back, the secondary outlet will be the highest point in my loop, and unlikely to spew water everywhere when I remove the plug. I can connect a 90* fitting and tube, flip the case onto it's front, and open the top of the res and run the pump. If I clamped the tub going to the CPU, I could pump-drain my loop! Option 2 sounds like a no-brainer to me... but am I missing something? My EX240 front radiator does not have the drain port in the bottom end-tank, so that's not an option (but would have been a preference obviously).
  17. So, progress will be slow initially while I'm acquiring parts. I don't have any fancy sponsors; 2 mortgages, 3 kids, and 2 home businesses... my own projects are pretty far down on the budget priority list. My current build was in a worklog a while back; a watercooled Dell XPS 700 case where I completed a very janky BTX conversion and installed a pair of radiators (240+120) using an XSPC D5 dual-bay kit. The components in that build have been upgraded a few times, but the computer at it's core is nearly 6 years old now (using an Intel i5 750), and in dire need of replacement. I've always loved the Phanteks Evolv cases, especially the size and proportions of the mATX variant. When I learned about the Ryzen release, and a subsequent update to the Evolv mATX with tempered glass... I knew it was time. My objectives are the following: Phanteks Evolv mATX Anthracite Tempered Glass white/gray/black theme open up top panel for more airflow + air filter anti-vandal power+reset switches Ryzen 5 1600 (with my existing Raystorm waterblock + updated AM4 hold-down) MSI Mortar Arctic + Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB 3200 in Gray 2x 240mm radiators (existing XSPC EX240 + new XSPC EX240 crossflow) Alphacool Eisbecher D5 150mm Acetal D5 150 tower res/pump combo (re-using my existing D5 vario) Corsair ML PWM fans (details on this later) PC Partpicker: https://pcpartpicker.com/user/HarrisonK/saved/4HF3CJ Google Photos Album: https://goo.gl/photos/q2Nu3kYkBvr4WhJR7 I'm going to retain my existing HIS HD7970+XSPC Razor for now, holding out to make a decision after the AMD Vega release has flushed out and I can make an informed decision on an updated GPU. As alluded to above, this will be a Gray/White/Black theme, with RGB lighting to accent here and there, although I highly doubt I'll be leaving the lights-on under normal operation. I waited until I had number of parts acquired so I could start mocking things up before I posted about my build. This thread will be more for my own benefit than anyone else's... it forces me to take pictures along the way . I had recieved my new watercooling parts 2 weeks ago, and just got the case this past weekend... so it was time to start seeing how things were going to shape up! I'd worked everything out on paper a while ago, and I knew it was going to be tight with my HD7970, but this really put things into perspective. This is a dead board from a few years back... pretty glad I held onto it now. Taking into account the front radiator and fans, there will be just under 1/2" clearance behind the GPU. Obviously, room for the massive reservoir/pump block was going to be an issue... but here's my (only?) option: I figure that if I drill a new set of holes in the res/pump fan brackets to push it towards the door another 3/16" of an inch or so, using the 140mm fan holes on the MB side, I'll have more than enough clearance for the ram and tube fittings on the CPU block: So far, so good!! Mods up until this point are pretty light... time to plan out some real mods! During my last build, I had picked up some black anti-vandal switches, the power one including and RGB led. I never used them, and being that this case doesn't have a reset switch (which I happen to like having still), I figured this might be a great opportunity to start hacking into my newly procured aluminium So, there appears to be lots of space for me to fit the pair of switches. I'll relocate the current switch/pcb assembly onto the back of the MB tray, and with a bit of black acrylic, to mount the switches into, I should be able to cut a ~2"x3" hole in the top plate. Next up will be to address airflow issues with this case, which are VERY well known. The first will be to add some washers to the front panel mounts to add some space between the air filter and the plate to reduce noise. I can't seem to find a reference picture for this, but it's a fairly well known mod with the Evolv cases at this point. Then I'll look at hacking up some more aluminium to improve airflow from the roof fans. There's two objectives here: focus the intake airflow, and open up the top plate, of which there are two different approaches that have been taken by others over on Overclock.net. (This references the full ATX case, but the idea here is the same for the mATX variant) (This is a mock-up of a tentative solution that ModMyMods plans to produce) (stolen from Overclock.net... sorry, I'll need to dig-up a reference link) While the waterjet cut plate that ModMyMods is planning looks great, the latter is much more realistic for me to pull off at home. What I might try is to do a 45* corner rather than a radius to keep with the aesthetic of the case. I'll use a black metal mesh, with a foam filter material below it. Time to get some masking tape onto the top plate and start drawing! At the very top, I had mentioned that I was going to use Corsair ML fans. While these fans are quite overpriced for what they are... I happen to have a friend working at Corsair. I'll pick up 4x 120mm ML gray/black fans, and a 140mm ML gray/black fan. He's also managed to track down a set of the gray Vengeance LPX ram too, which is going to look really good in this build I think, as well as a RMx 650 PSU so that I can minimize the number of unneeded cables in the case, since my current PSU isn't going to fit, nor is it modular. Hopefully I can place that order next week, and the remaining parts within a month :D
  18. Looking sharp. I popped in after seeing your pump top query on Bit. I don't think having a non-spiral volute will change your pump performance enough to matter in such a small setup. It'll boost your street cred if you can make your own tops too.:D
  19. Thank you so much! Yea this case is a blast to work on. There is so much to do with the theme its been almost painful to shoot down some of my own ideas haha
  20. Coming along really nicely. I can tell you are having a lot of fun. Really like the gpu cover.
  21. Airbrush on the case is finished! Also the clear coating on it and polishing. The BIG gold TUF logo Also the Bitspower on the front side. Finally I know how the entire water loop will look like. There goes lot of time to measuring holes for tubing because every mistake will be very noticeable. But it went fine Next step was to drill same two holes on the bottom of the case. And here are all amazing fittings from Bitspower for this project. All in True Brass color - they are just amazing and super quality. Middle step with drilling was also cutting the hole for PCIE cables for GPU. All cutted and drilled finally :D 3D printed part coated with matt black paint. PCIE cabling with printed cable comb and also with 4 Icemodz black cablecombs. Custom sized hand maded cables from Icemodz.eu (sleeving, cable combs, clips, connectors...). Be sure to check out their eshop with amazing stuff for amazing prices http://www.icemodz.eu In the next update I will place the pump in the bottom of the case. There is really not much space but it should work out. Also few photos of D5 pump combo kit (TOP and gold mod kit). More sooon!
  22. May I introduce you guys to my finished home hub/casual gaming rig, Project ITX treasure It’s been a tough road getting this all to fit inside, but one thing I do love is the fact it sits so well inside my living room. Finished just in time I think to ensure I can move onto the next huge build I have coming up, love the way this came out. A big thank you to all my sponsors for helping out with this build, without you this would of took much longer.
  23. UPDATE As we approach to the final hours of FORGE, I This update will be one of the last before assembly. We will be going over some fine details and creating the "look" through paint, texture and fabrication.Lets start off with the Radeon RX 460. Watercooled. Now, I know you might be thinking "why are you doing this?". Well to answer your question I'll ask you a question back. Why did I see a mini van with a 4" lift kit on it driving down the road? Because they could, and they did.. Any way.. I started out by removing the ASUS Strix heatsink and shroud from the GPU, Cleaned off the Chip and then applied thermal paste and added an Alphacool NexXxos GPX Solo. It was a little bit of a tight fit, but it fit. Then I started on the back plate with some 1/8th cast acrylic. The design is based off of the Alphacool heat fins on their Full GPU blocks. I wanted to keep the theme so I made the "fins" a bit smaller and added an angle that will run off into a flat leather plane. I liked where it was going, but something was missing. Like every good story there has to be a part that draws emotion, that really catches your attention and makes you feel. To me Stained glass was the answer for this build. I decided I wanted to make a stained glass shroud for the GPU. I think it represents the Viking era very well and adds some "awe" to the theme.The original stained glass I did was too heavy for that small GPU so I had to make it out of acrylic and give it a nice faux finish, then connect it with solder, just like I would with real stained glass. And then you have the final results.NOTE: I had to cut down the back plate because the Motherboard cover went out half way across the GPU due to the long screws on the Eisblock. Speaking of the Eisblock! I received the Alphacool Eisblock Mod kit from Alphacool and did a little faux finish on that as well. Making it look and feel like forged steel. That concludes the most recent update. I had some PSU cables made and they just came in to the shop today! I also received some awesome soft and hard plastic drill bits from LMT Onsrud to try out. So my next update will start with drilling some holes in the custom reservoir and tapping it.
  24. So, some time ago I ventured on a build that was held here based in the Thermaltake X9 and was a dual loop massive water cooling project. It took some time was basically my first time using rigid tubing: The time eventually came where we needed to replace the desk in the house, unfortunately the mammoth X9 caused a lot of head ache here due its vast size limiting the available desks. So I decided to downsize into an INWIN 303 using all the current parts I had available: Recently you may have heard that AMD released a new range of CPU's - it's been quite a small subject with very little hype or coverage ............ oh wait So I sold up my trusty 4790k and Ranger Z97 board + DDR3 ram and got to work with a Ryzen refresh! First thing I wanted to do was polish the CPU block up as it didn't look as good as it once did, a little like myself!! Next job remove the SSD, split it down and make it more suiting to the incoming colour change! Followed by a new logo for the 1080 GTX Backplate By now the components had arrived comprising a Ryzen 7 1700, Gigabyte AX370 Auros Gaming 5 and 16gb of GSkill Trident Z RGB 3200 Next chunk of work was to resleeve all the cables and paint the supplied AM4 bracket I also sorted out my 5 inch LCD to match the colour scheme and of course changed the logos! It this point I decided I didn't like the ugly Enermax fan in the rear of the case and opted to add another 120mm crossflow radiator to the rear which of course required spraying! I then had to change the LED's on the Riing fans on the upper radiator to blue from red and Thermaltake sent me a batch of blue mounting pads out: At this point I wasn't completely happy with the temps, like most tempered panel cases it traps a lot of heat in, so I decided (yes crazy) to strip the whole PC down again and add a 120mm intake fan to the front of the case and figured whilst it's empty, lets spray the inside!! The fan is off centre here purposefully to allow clearance of the tubing on the inside: So basically its been a long road but I'm almost (yes almost) happy - the only change I want to make is to add Bitspower white fittings, but that will have to wait for more wife credits as i'm negative marriage currency now !! Thanks for viewing!
  25. Ok, I'm guessing the silence is because it's the ModZoo, and not because of the high attrition rate of 2016 on the '70s rock community. I didn't know about Rush retiring until I got the farewell documentary for Christmas. -OW. ow. That said...CRAP!
  26. Bill has sent over some decent PETG tubing to test so we can add it to the list, once testing is complete we will post results.
  27. Although i want to build an open Case, i need to make a few Cable routing holes because it has to look somewhat tidy. After test fitting the Seasonic PSU i made first cut. On the Back of the MB Tray will be a space to hide the Cables and the aquaero. Also the D5 Pump and a tube-res will be located on this side. but lets see when the watercooling hardware arrives.
  28. While taking apart the PSU, it shows that there is a lot of thought put into making it quiet, unfortunately that makes taking it apart and painting it a bit difficult. I had to get creative because you can't separate the board from the casing without un-soldering it. Once everything was unpainted, it was time to sleeve up the 24-pin. I went with MDPC sleeving because of the color selection. Super nice stuff, and it looks and works great, just reminds me how much I dislike how stiff it makes the cables though. That's always a factor if you've got some tight spots or short runs. But anyways, once the 24 was sleeved, I could put the PSU back together. I painted it to match the rest of the components, even though you won't see some of the details. With most of the painting out of the way, I could start on cleaning up the interior of the 303. I want to cover up a lot of the mounting holes since I won't be using them. Decided to use a translucent blue acrylic. I really like this color and it lights up pretty well with LEDs. This just barely slipped past the board but will look super clean. And with a bit of filing this piece will finish the look. Some LED strips behind it should give it a nice glow. Sponsored by:
  29. Greetings! Not much to say at the minute as I'm trying to get some money together for the next phase of the project. Rather than let this log vanish into the ether, I thought I'd share a little preview of something upcoming. Very rough photos as this update has been thrown together rather hastily With the radiator occupying the entire lower chamber of the case, and the PSU residing where the hard drives would usually sit, I need to relocate the storage. Since I'm sticking with 2.5" drives right now, I thought I'd make the new drive position a bit of a feature. So, one drive mounting plate drawn up and cut: and will be placed on the back of the case over the motherboard cutout, something like this Space for 2 drives; I'll be repurposing my existing Samsung 840 500GB as it's still in excellent health and pairing it with one of those slim 7mm tall laptop drives for file storage, more than likely the Western Digital WD10SPCX 1TB. Allow this battered Seagate to illustrate. I'm going for a wireless look for this storage plate, so each drive has a cutout for running cables out of the way. I'll be using those ultra slim Silverstone CP11 SATA cables to tuck under the GPU, route under the motherboard and out the big case cutout into the storage plate. For power I'm going to try and make up a veroboard for sharing the power a few ways as I have something fancy planned (and is what's costing the money) Given the visual mismatch of a mechanical dive paired with SSD, I'm not leaving the drives exposed. Pair of aluminium covers will be used, and I've cut the Asteria II and In Win branding into them for some visual flourish with something to come later. It'll be along these lines when they're in position. That's the general gist of it anyway Hopefully I can scrounge some money together soon and get the acrylic and LED strips in and get this bit put together properly. Catch you soon!
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