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  3. Puddidium235: A radioactive isotope of banana pudding. Generally considered harmless, but may cause eye strain if looked at too long. Yep. :D I'm at it again. During the previous project I picked up some really obnoxious plexiglas. I was also drawing up something with brutalism as the theme. Eventually it evolved into what I will now attempt to build. -I mean, I kept telling myself, "too simple." How crazy did the design get? Well, here's a hint: -NOT a cube! Obviously, I may have set the bar a little high. Some of this stuff doesn't fit my little mill, so there might be a gantry mill mini-game. Speaking of Mills, I did some tidying up: -I got everything running on one pump, and chopped this old xerox chassis. Other mods include a ps2 plug for the antique keyboard. -Day one: I have here some freshly tile-sawed 3 1/2" tube, 1/2" clear with 1/8" teal bonded to it, and some strips of blue with...glitter. :D It's going to be gloriously obnoxious, I promise. -The first milling pic may be blurry, but it's nice and loud. -I'm trying some chinese bits here. (Well, they had a fake Japanese name on them, clever bastards..) I will admit the edge cuts are nice and clean, but the center-cutting is a big fat lie. For this part I have a tiny hole in the very center, so I can line the part up after flipping it. -Here I'm drilling the center hole all the way through the part. I also marked out the horizontal positioning. -and again my camera proves it can change history and travel through time. (How the F does it save a pic from a day before AFTER this pic?) Anyway.. I was a little rusty after taking such a long break, and forgot to flip the CAD to match the part. YEP! The first part was also the first mistake. I'm good. The circle shows one of the screw hole starts on the opposite side. The X is where it's supposed to be. -Luckily, I made two blanks. This is a finished 2nd try. -I drilled and tapped these out. Did I mention these will be a reservoir mount? No? -Here's a hint. This is the last time I played with some of this heavy 3 1/2" tube. The tolerances were awful, it rattled, and there's no way to dismantle it. -Here's a bushing I'll be needing for this. You can see the awful surface cutting of the chinese bit here. I'm also noticing the holes are out of spec. (I HOPE that's the bits. God help me if my machine is out of tune. ) This 1/4" bit should fit in the hole. Instead, I doubt it would fit if it was hammered in. -For now, I'm focusing on parts I can fit on the machine. Here's another hint of the loudness to come. It's florescent yellow pearl, and it isn't nearly as loud as the rest. -Enter our primary color: Neon banana puddin'. Notice it's UV reaction to even white LEDs. :D -Here's a better example of the edge and surface cuts. I'm not happy I now need to program a 2nd set of code for surface bits. -Here's my current parts pile. I hope you enjoyed my disjointed, disorganized, and downright cryptic first post. I can't guarantee it will make more sense in the future, but confusing you is just the nature of my game. I'll leave you with the part I'm currently trying to realize:
  4. Hey guys, this is one of my builds for CES this year, both for Aorus, but here's the first one :) Thermaltake View 71 Modded (Removed parts, cable tucked, painted window, some vinyl work, shaved front I/O, etc.) Thermaltake 1200W ARGB 32GB Ram RGB Aorus RTX 2080 Super Aorus Xtreme Waterblock SSD Aorus 1TB PCIE 4.0, NVME (Copper heatsink model, de-heatsinked) Thermaltake watercooling with PETG 16/12 and CPU/GPU in parallel CableMod power and power LED along with PCIE screws Fans are 140mm Riing Trio
  5. Earlier
  6. So I got some parts in to finish up the build. The first one being a Noctua NF-A14 Redux. I like the gray color of this versus the brown of the standard Noctua fans. This will replace the stock A14 on the C14S Noctua cooler. The Redux doesn't come with the isolation pads so I stole them off the stock A14 and they actually look pretty good with the Redux and the leather trim in the case. You can also see I got my paracord for the GPU cables. I went with gold for a bit of contrast and it goes well with the green. And that's it. Pretty simple mods but I really like the way it gives the case a nice classy look. Just what you'd expect in a refined touring car. And now some final shots. Thanks for following along!
  7. Update!So since last time a couple of things have happend. I hope you like it and feel free to leave a comment
  8. And now for the paint. As you could tell from the last post, I was going with a green. Med. Cypress Green to be exact, that was available on Chevy trucks around the early 2000's. It wasn't exactly what I had in my head, but I couldn't really walk into the paint shop and check out their Aston Martin color sheets. So I went with a green I liked that they could mix in a single stage in the brand I use. I'm painting the 'brushed' aluminum looking parts and the PSU shroud cover. That amounts to the cover, the top panel, front panel, and a lower front panel. I didn't spray the off side door for a couple of reasons. First being that I was sticking to the panels that they decided needed special finishing, the brushed effect, and also, I'm never gonna look at that side, so why paint it? It looked a bit weird to me at first but it grew on me after I considered the symmetry of it with the dark glass on the other side. While that was drying, I decided that I needed to touch up part of the front panel. I had painted the whole thing chrome, but a sliver of it sits under the glass/off side door, so I taped it off and hit it with some black from an airbrush. That left a thin chrome strip between the grilling and the side panel. Much nicer. With that done, it was time to start transplanting from fusion. I went with a standard GPU, which is a bit weird for me, but I'm not looking for crazy. Custom cables of course, in a super dark charcoal with aluminum combs really fit the car aesthetic. Unfortunately I ran out of sleeving material when I got to the GPU. No more charcoal, the black sleeve I had was feces, and no other color that went with the build, so I'm bare wiring it till I get some more in. But I had to get everything back up and running because this is my main rig and I was doing this the first or second weekend of Destiny 2 Shadowkeep being out. Had to get my grind on. The last pic doesn't really do it justice since I have horrible lighting in my computer room, but you get the gist. For the CPU cooler, I'm running a Noctua C-14S, which you can barely see through the glass, but more on that later. Thanks for following along!
  9. Now for the chrome. Like on GT cars, I just wanted some accent parts, not a ton of it. So naturally I'm going to paint the biggest plastic trim part on the case chrome. I went with Molotow chrome, and although it is amazing, over large parts, it's difficult to get a good chrome look with the small tip I'm running on my air brush. There was a lot of playing around with technique. I also hit the back case feet with the chrome. I was trying for some chrome on some interior trim parts, but they didn't come out so well. Too large of an area to get the effect to come out and they were just overboard. Next I started piecing it all together. I wanted to make sure I wasn't screwing myself over somewhere and have to go back and do some more modifications after the fact. And also, this is a pretty simple mod, so it didn't take much to get it ready. Some color change and leather is enough to really class it up. I went with InWin's Polaris fans. Partly because I have a bunch of them, partly because I like the look, and partly cause they daisy chain. You mean I can have fans that I don't have to buy, that work, look good, and fit the case, and there's only one fan wire to deal with, sign me up. Then I started putting the chrome parts on, the front panel and the back feet. The grilling covers most of the chrome so not much actually shows. The holes to the right of the pass throughs are drive bay mounts and they come with little trim covers to block them off. Originally I was going to chrome these and then put some veneer in the center to make it look like a wood accent with a chrome ring. But like I mentioned before, the chrome didn't want to play nice on these parts and in the end, it just didn't look right. So I covered them in the leather as well. I think they fit perfectly. Next up... Thanks for following along!
  10. Aaannnnddd, back at it again. I'm feeling that it's time for a new case to house my personal system. My Fusion build was fun and interesting with a different look and materials, but it's just not doing it for me. I don't catch myself staring at it from time to time like I used to with Shinai, thinking how crazy it was that I had something this nice on my desk. So time for another try. I'm starting off with a BeQuiet! Dark Base 700 that I picked up for my second place finish at QuakeCon. Now lets see what all is involved in this case, since it's the first time using one. Holy feces! You almost need an engineering degree to tear this thing down. I had plans for a build that I wanted to try this winter, but this thing is way too complicated for that idea, so what now? I kept coming back to this look of old grand touring cars. Leather, chrome, wood, and for some strange reason green metallic paint. I don't know, I think I'm in a green phase? So lets start with the leather. After a successful trip to Hobby Lobby, I picked up a yard of nice faux leather. This would be perfect for accenting the interior so with some Super 77 adhesive, I started laying it out. Now I just want accents so I'm not going crazy and covering everything in leather, just some broad swaths. The last time I did leather on a tray, it was a flat custom panel, this one has some details that make it a bit more of a pain to keep clean. Luckily, most of this will be covered with other parts. After trimming and wrapping the edges around. I did go back after this picture and re-do the MB tray. I had cut it straight at the top and bottom edges and realized that it looked horrible, so I went back and wrapped the leather around the edges the second time. Next up the chrome!
  11. Always so much detail in your builds. Love it!
  12. I really liked this case, it was fun
  13. Hey, Welcome to the Zoo! It would be pretty tough with a black case, unless you put something white behind the screen, but that would make it no longer transparent, which kind of defeats the purpose. If you were able to get enough light in there, it doesn't really matter what color it is, it's just that getting a lot of white light is easier than most colors. If you could get it to work, that would be pretty awesome going around the front and sides. One in front and one on the side, so you get a front and side view of the rocket launching would be sweet too! If you do give it a shot, I'd love to see it in the project logs here
  14. Hey Mos, Awesome mod. I have this case in black with the tempered glass in the front. Inside are no LEDs other than a few red ones that came along with my red fans. Do you think it's possible to do the same mod on the front glass panel of the case? I fear that because the inside is black and dark the LCD won't come out very nice. My idea is to have an LCD that goes along the entire length and width and from time to time shows a rocket launching along the case. It's for a space themed build. Thanks for your input!
  15. Monitor can be plugged in directly in the back of the GPU, I only cover some but not all connections. I installed 90° connectors on the usb of the mobo, Also I have a small dongle for a wireless keyboard/mouse combo. Its more then enough. But honestly, who would try to use this as a desktop replacement Power cord for the PSU is hidden behind the metal pole. I tied it down with zip ties to make it almost not visible, rest is the magic of photoshop 😄
  16. Absolutely beautiful. but... How are you connecting cables?
  17. And some final pictures: We also made a video, showing the making-of in more detail: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rXVfz0cU5pw
  18. Mosquito and I review the new Silverstone LD03 Tempered Glass ITX Case
  19. Next, the panels for the cockpit were put into place. I added two more switches to the mid section. One is starting the water pump and the other switches the temperature sensor on and off. It was already visible in the upper pictures, but before I glued the panels in, I bend some acrylic tubes for the water cooling and connected the CPU to the loop. I think this is my very first mod where the drain valve is actually the lowest spot in the loop. Its right at the front and easily accessible. It will be covered with the nose part later. I already made a test, and I get like 99% of the water out of the loop this way. The special Titan X GPU will sit in the back. The opening I planned before, was not big enough. I just grabbed my Proxxon and made it a little bigger. The edges were covered with aluminum profiles. This also added a bit more stability. Luckily, my wife loves painting, so I got some help for the weathering. First all detail lines were colored in a dark tone, to highlight the separation of the panels. Then multiple layers of grey, brown and black color were dabbed on to achieve a used look. Now that the X-Wing is basically done, I needed a place for it. Its really hard to find suitable tables in the right size and height, so I build my own one as a stand for the mod. Yes, I build my own table for a case mod ^^ To hold the weight of the X-Wing, I constructed a large base from multiple layers of ply wood. At one end, I included a steel pole. The top side will bear a smaller base, that will be directly attached to the body of the X-Wing with screws.
  20. While working on the electric, I soldered another light effect. The 4 "lasers" should also shoot some light, two at each time. So the left top and right bottom and vise versa at the same time. Therefore, I made this simple circuit using two capacitors and two transistors. You will see it later in the video. I also reworked the motorization of the BB8 and switched from a servo to a Arduino controlled stepper motor. Also, more in the video ^^ Then it was finally time to work on the inside of the X-Wing. I started in the front section of the main body and applied some carbon vinyl. Here the water tanks will be placed. Ok, I added the water tank and the first fittings right after. On the inner wall, I attached an RGB strip and soldered the controller right at the front. Before working on the cockpit, I needed to spray paint the walls first. To keep the design, I also applied some carbon vinyl to the inside. Also this was the time to put the mobo into place. I wanted to make the cockpit look more like an actual space ship cockpit. So, I first make some empty panels to see my layout. The panel on the middle has a big hole in it. Here I will make a cover later that can be removed to work on the cables. After I decided what I wanted to place on the panels, I drilled in all needed holes. Then LEDs and switches were placed. The cover for the middle panel also got the typical symbol from the rebellion.
  21. this is looking promising. looking forward to more
  22. I can't wait to see a low light vid of those. They look like they came out great. And, I have to say your soldering and wiring skills are superb.
  23. After adding the 5th exhaust, I reworked the other 4 also a little bit. You might remember, I installed a normal RGB LED strip in each exhaust. This maybe looks nice, but I dont have much controll over the LEDs. So, I took some of my left over APA106 LEDs from the WOPR project, which are individual addressable. I wanted to install 8 LEDs in each exhaust the get a nice and diffused light. All had to be connected to 104 nF capacitors first. To make them fit perfectly and ensure an even distribution of light, I printed some spacers and soldered the LEDs into place. The animation, I had in mind was something like a starting jet engine. So maybe some explosions at start and then a fading effect from red to yellow to blue. This indicates, the turbine will go up in speed. When blue, there will be some white light sparks, giving the impression the engine is actually running. All is done with an Arduino Nano to save space. Here are some pictures of the transition. More in the making-of video later. I couldn't wait and had to install two wings and see the effect.
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