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  1. Last week
  2. Nothing is bullet proof. If it stops a bullet, they used the wrong bullet.
  3. PCPartPicker Link: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/pkKk29 Hey all! I had a couple minutes last night so I took a picture of the car’s bumper and recreated the lettering. Now the design is really coming together!!!
  4. PCPartPicker Link: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/pkKk29 Goood afternoon my fellow PC nuts and Luder lovers! First, let’s get some love for a bath for #AcidDragon as she sits in the driveway Now that we know what we are working towards….. Let’s start changing this Thermaltake Commander C34 case! First let’s get this front panel off by using a gentle prying motion with a flat screwdriver to release the 4 clips Those 200mm of RGB goodness (Thermaltake included front intake fans) Now we can get the grills removed and get them painted green to match the grill on #AcidDragon A tip for painting outside, cover with a clear tub/container to prevent dust, leaves, bugs and anything else floating around while the paint dries Always several super light coats for the win! While I waited for the paint to cure, I began unboxing hardware and getting it installed to test fit and prep the system to plan out our loop and placement of the “turbo” pump. Starting with this sexy EVGA Z390 FTW motherboard…and fitting the Thermaltake Pacific CPU cooler to it Next up our 120GB TeamGroup SSD! Finally, let’s install this Thermaltake ToughPower 850W PSU! A bit overpowered for this build’s purpose…. But so is the watercooling haha The paint hasn’t fully cured, but now is dry and can be installed back in place! The case is looking sexy so far! Hopefully I will have time to get some more work this Friday and have another update for you next week!!! Stay classy fellow modders and friends!!!
  5. Wow, that really did turn out fantastic! Nice work to both of you
  6. So it only took a year to get the video edited for it, but I did... or at least most of it lol
  7. At last we got there in the end, it was a long process but I am so happy with how this mod/art piece came out, there were a lot of choices to make and I am amazed with the end result, it truly is a one off piece, some ups and downs during the build but got there in the end, enjoy the pics and the videos guys. https://xtremecomputing.co.uk/images/mods/tw/tw_final/image004.jpg] https://xtremecomputing.co.uk/images/mods/tw/tw_final/image008.jpg] I Love it, but just when you think I already posted too many pictures, here are some different lighting modes for you of course with the rainbow unicorn too 😛 And to finish it off, here are some videos for you to watch, first up is the video of how the engraving was done by my wife. https://youtu.be/7UZRzaHWM8I Second the Desk in normal mode https://youtu.be/LSxtzPjWqEU Last but not least Desk in unicorn mode https://youtu.be/o7uMx_bOavs One massive journey (and desk :P) but we got there in the end and I love my new art piece in my home, special thanks to the sponsors involved and also my wife for the engraving.
  8. Tasty work. I like that you added the top res's to the loop to get the moisture effect.
  9. And some pictures of the final mod. I also made a short making-of video: [video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5uEf2ZmIkk8[/video]
  10. First LAN case that could probably be certified bullet proof 😄
  11. Earlier
  12. And now to lay up the back panel. First layer down was carbon fiber followed by Kevlar. Then my plywood support panel went in followed by another layer of Kevlar and 2 more layers of carbon fiber. I'd have shots of the work but it's hard to grab picks when you're covered in epoxy. But the final product. Then I vacuum bagged it to pull out the extra epoxy and keep from getting air voids in the layers. I learned from last time and just sealed a cover to my table. So much easier. After prying it off the mold, we have a back panel. Then I cut the part down to a more manageable size and checked the fit. Total weight of the case right now stands at 7 lbs 6 oz. Not bad. Since I need to start getting things drilled out for hardware, we should probably check out the hardware. Intel Core i5 9600K Asrock Z390M 16GB Corsair Vengeance LPX 2666MHz RAM Corsair MP510 480GB NVMe drive Silverstone SST SX600 600w PSU And the monster NVIDIA RTX2080TI Yes, I'm shoving all this and cooling and a keyboard, mouse, and headset in the case. But first I want to get the back panel mounted up. To do this I need to mount the MB and PSU because they might have some say on where the mounts for the back panel end up. Mounted up the MB and PSU on my frame. Next up I mounted some spacers that sit just outside of the hardware so there are no clearance issues. I'm getting some real mileage out of these 1/4"-20 x 1" aluminum spacers. Good thing cause they're pricey. These will be a direct link from a majority of the hardware(and weight) to my plywood support panel and in turn, the straps for the pack. It works like this: The shell carries the weight of the radiators/fans and any peripherals that you have in the pack and that gets transferred to the frame through the 9 bracket mounts. The frame carries the rest of the hardware weight and transfers that and the shell's weight directly to the plywood support in the back panel through these spacers. On the back panel, I'll use d-ring tie downs or something similar to connect the straps, using the same screw that is holding the back on to the spacer. It seems really complicated in words, but basically I'm trying to tie the straps as directly to the weight of the hardware as possible and avoiding stresses on the CF panels anywhere I can. To hold the back panel where I want it, I made some temporary tabs for the inside of the shell that will keep it lined up while marking out my holes. Bit of marking, a bit of cussing, some drilling, and the back panel is mounted. I liked the idea of the tabs to keep the back in place, so I made some permanent tabs from extra CF pieces and epoxied them on. Thanks for following along and thanks to my sponsor:
  13. I haven't used a ton of MDF, but usually used shellac as a sealer on it when I did. I didn't have issues with that. Also used straight paste wax on the MDF to prevent things froms ticking too (like when using MDF as a top and bottom for gluing marquetry together, or other veneering)
  14. Probably, and easier for shaping as well. But I had the plywood and I'm trying to use up the OSB since it's leftover from our old shop. The only thing I would worry about is if it did decide to stick, MDF would be a beast to chunk out. I figured the worst that could happen with the plywood would be some strands get left behind. On a side note, maybe you have more experience with MDF than me, does it poof up with shellacs or sealers like it does with water? I've never had a reason to find out.
  15. haha brilliant 😄 Happy your daugther likes this one!
  16. Dude This looks great so far. Love the front graphic with the big lightning tail. That's a great look. My daughter loves this, she is a big Pokemon freak.
  17. Finally, I started to cover the case with yellow and black foile, to stay in the Pikachu/Pokemon theme. And ofc all the holes for the ventilation needed to be cut out. The front panel also got a small Pikachu silouette. On the inside, I put a part of the movie poster. Ob the back side I attached a second silouette and the name giving letters. Last, I build the water cooling. Its a tripple loop system with independant loops for the GPU, CPU and memory.
  18. I wonder if MDF would have been better for the form? No knot holes when it's sawdust and glue lol
  19. Next up, I built the mounting for the water tanks. I simply glued everything on a plywood sheet what will perfectly fit into the right compartment. The water tanks will be placed in the holes and stabilized from the bottom. To make the construction look more like a city scene, I 3d printed panels with windows inside. There will be a light effect later on behind the windows. For my next step, I needed to completely dismantle the LEvel 20. Which is suprisingly easy. Just unscrew some screws and you are done. After everything was dismantled, I set the position of the drain ports.
  20. Next, I worked on the right compartment bearing the water tanks and radiators. First, I cut a wooden pannel to mount the radis into place. And ofc a first test fit. To hide the wooden structure, I covered everything with black carbon foil. Then, I also included the water tanks and tried to see on which hight they should be mounted.
  21. And the back panel. I've been putting this off trying to wrap my head around everything so I don't epicly screw it up. This is where the rubber meets the road. Where the straps meet the backpack. Where, if I screw up, $500 of epoxy carrying $2k of hardware meets the floor. No pressure. I want to make a plug for the panel, that way I can have curves and make it look like a part of the pack, not just a panel slapped on the back to finish it off. So I'm starting with a piece of 3/4" plywood cut to match the interior dimensions of the shell. This will let me build up layers and match the shell, or be really close. This went on to a piece of scrap 1/2" OSB I had laying around and then I flush cut it to the original piece of plywood. This is to add thickness to the plug because when the cloth goes from the vertical of the side to the horizontal of the panel the plug is on, there's a flare and I don't want that to interfere with my final cut line. Then I put a 1/4" roundover on the plywood to give me a gentle curve from the back panel into the shell. And then I flipped over my plywood and did it again because someone forgot the shell isn't perfectly symmetrical and he needed to flip the plywood to keep everything lined up. No biggie though, everything is going to be filled in the end. And then I attached the beginnings of my plug to a base made out of some more scrap OSB. Now for the details. My plan is for the back to be the attachment point for the straps and the frame/hardware. Basically, this back panel is the middle man for transferring the load from the frame to the straps. Now, CF is tough, but I'm not sure that it can handle the stress of that weight being loaded on some bolts going through it and transferring to another set of bolts so I wanted to build in a panel that could. I decided to use some 3/16" plywood I had laying around because it's stable and I know it could handle the load, plus it's something the epoxy could really grab ahold of. I thought about using aluminum but even roughing it up, it's just a piece of Al floating around in a composite matrix whereas the plywood can soak up the epoxy and become part of the composite and less prone to separation. At least that's my thinking so I'm going with it. Since I didn't want this panel to jut out on the exterior, I routed a spot for it in the plug. I also need a door on this back panel for access to ports and plugs, and as a way to get your gear in and out. So I routed an inset for a door as well. The door itself will be CF as well and be held on with some cam latches so it's going to need a nice clean lip to sit on when it's all said and done. To get a nice roll for the lip and to help the cloth sit nicely on the plug, I beveled the edges of my insets. That pretty much did it for shaping, now to get it ready for epoxy and cloth. My main thing here is I don't the epoxy to be able to soak into the wood and I don't want any edges for it to grab on to. First up some sanding and then shellac as a sealer. After some more sanding, I used some filler to give me a smooth surface on the OSB, fill in any knot holes and grain, and to give me flat sides with a fillet to the base. And for a final layer to help this all come apart, PVA wax. Now I should be able to layup my back panel, but I'll save that for next time. Thanks for following along! Thanks to my sponsor and hopefully next update, I'll have another sponsor to add to the project:
  22. And back at it. Once the epoxy sat up on my frame, I got it cleaned back up. Ready for paint or clear, either way it should look sharp. Now that I could determine how my frame was gonna sit in the shell, I could cutting on the shell, putting in a window and cutting it to its final depth. First the window. I want to have a good look at the GPU and stick close to the shape of the shell's panel. And then cutting the case down to size. I started out cutting on the shell with a die grinder and abrasive wheel but soon turned to a pull saw. It was faster and a lot cleaner without the chance of screwing something up in the blink of an eye. It also dealt with the Kevlar much better than the grinder. Next up was getting the frame mounted inside the shell. This took a bit of research because the frame needs to be mounted in a way to transfer the weight of the shell to the straps and not fall apart but it also needs to be removable since I can't really put anything together through my little window in the front. Combine this with me not wanting to use any sort of screw that would show on the outside of the case, and I was left with some sort of glue. Or rather epoxy. 3M DP420 seemed like the right stuff, good for bonding metals to composites and a high shear strength. I mean, one of the uses the show is gluing golf club heads to graphite shafts, I think it'll stand up to my use. Pricey though, but should be worth it. First up some aluminum brackets. And marked out ready to bend. Since I want the brackets to match up with the look of the frame, I decided to put some at angles, cause who wants to make things easy. And on top of that, I needed these to be at about a 60 degree angle to sit right with the shell. Only problem is my bender is set up to do 90 degrees. Yay! More work. Had to grind my hold down bar to allow for acute angles and notch the frame a bit but it can now pull off about a 60 degree bend. That bar was a beast. It bent my brackets like a charm. You'll notice on these two straight brackets that I roughed them up to give the epoxy something to grab on to. The angled brackets were naturally more of a PITA. Luckily before I glued them in, I thought about the radiators being close and did some measuring. Need to knock them down a bit to keep them from interfering. Along with the brackets, I also made a jig that would allow me to set them square and at the same height around the case. I did have to tape them to hold them in place till the epoxy cured. 20 minutes turned out to be more than enough work time. And with some cure time and some holes drilled and tapped, I could mount the frame. The two brackets at the top are a bit off, but they're matching and you should never see them so I'm not worried. Plus that epoxy is a beast to remove. I found that out redoing a couple of the brackets that didn't line up the way I wanted. With the main brackets out of the way, the smaller ones were done pretty much the same way but using the frame as a guide. Next up the back panel! Thanks to my sponsor:
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