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  1. Yesterday
  2. LOL, that hemp wrap. wow, they certainly did not take any chance that stuff would shift in shipping. and I know that smell your talking about, ug.
  3. Last week
  4. I stand corrected. That stuff got here so fast, one box overshot Texas and landed in Memphis. So...where am I? -One nice thing about polycarb: You can do stuff like this to get into that normally un-tappable tab. -I really don't need much clamping force, but there it is. I added some socket head screws to the shopping list. -I milled this out for a Z motor mount. Earlier I chopped up 1/2" acetal sticks and leveled one side. -Here it is with a lot of drilling and tapping done. Currently all I have for metric screws are what came in some kind of 'sampler kit' I picked up in a vacant rental. Needles to say, I'm using as much imperial as I can. Metric tap and drill stuff is really tough to get here. -Then the other day I got this weird pickle sculpture. -Inside: MORE packing, and like, half a roll of tape. -And MORE- wait...Hemp? -Ok, a lot of oily dirt mixed with blood, and a 2nd box today, and I have most of it. There's a few mixed up quantities, but I can get measurements confirmed and start adjusting the 3d model. -For now, everything gets a de-greasing and Texas Tea bath. It's not as noxious as the normal Chinese lube. -That stuff that smells like cigarettes and paint, but it's still rough to inhale.
  5. rear panel added reinforcement elements I will add 2 more "sandwich" wings with leds in the center 2 acrylic panels painted with another acrylic panel with leds in the center in addition to strengthening the structure, it will have an aesthetic value, 2 D-RGB strips inside these fins
  6. Earlier
  7. OK, it looks like I'm not going to get Super-speed on my wee experiment. I grabbed the Intel USB 3 and USB Group cable assembly spec documents and nothing in either actually talks about this mythical pin 10. Intel refer to it as "over current protection" but all pin out diagrams and data talk about the big-ass plug (19 pins) or the interface ports (9 pins), but nothing about how the two link together. So I ripped apart the 901's stock front panel cable knowing I won't be using it and had a look 😁 Well won't you look at that. Pin 10 is not connected, but the ports attached to this cable enable Super-speed just fine. Note the "S" for Super-speed on the icon. Plug in my experiment however and we get "H" for Hi-speed (registers as a different hub on the USB 3 root too) So, the upshot is I'm falling foul of impedance limits because the USB 3 spec pretty much states Super-speed capability is a very finicky business. There's something on my DIY job that's causing the controller hub to fail its Super-speed self-test and therefore falling back to USB 2 speeds. Although my wires aren't shielded, they're 24 AWG across the board which is much bigger than the 28-30 AWG listed in the spec so I can't see the copper being the issue. The PCB, however, is a cheapo job so I'm thinking that's where signal quality is lost and kicking out the test. To that end, I'll think about where to go from here. I could go down a direct solder route and hook up the wires directly to the ports (I do have, after all, an internal USB 3 cable already part-shredded 😉) or I could cut my losses and just live with USB 2 speeds. And if I'm going down that route then I can save myself the grief of 8 wires and just use the 10 for USB 2. Still, it's been a learning experience!
  8. a lot of work today ... processing of the tray, very important as it is an integral part of the structure technical dimensions tests positioning of the bracket that will fix the inno3d RTX2060super TWIN X2 video card vertically, here helps me coolermaster who sends me a special bracket designed for his houses but that is fine for what I need but it's not over I have to find a way to fix it firmly to the panels. motherboard placement and holes I have an envelope full of spacers I always take them apart before I get rid of an old case creation of the hole on the tray to facilitate the installation of the fixing plate for the CPU waterblock once you have decided what to do, prepare all the holes for the gpu support bracket after taking the measurements well 3 times I proceed I practice very small holes one points it as a cutter and patiently floods all the holes connecting them creating a groove I help myself with a precision file (one of my best purchases) perfect.. it is not yet finished all the tray bloggo must still be well worked .. and the panels made previously must be revised (they are too large) a lot of work today ... processing of the tray, very important as it is an integral part of the structure technical dimensions tests positioning of the bracket that will fix the inno3d RTX2060super TWIN X2 video card vertically, here helps me coolermaster who sends me a special bracket designed for his houses but that is fine for what I need but it's not over I have to find a way to fix it firmly to the panels. motherboard placement and holes I have an envelope full of spacers I always take them apart before I get rid of an old case creation of the hole on the tray to facilitate the installation of the fixing plate for the CPU waterblock once you have decided what to do, prepare all the holes for the gpu support bracket after taking the measurements well 3 times I proceed I practice very small holes one points it as a cutter and patiently floods all the holes connecting them creating a groove I help myself with a precision file (one of my best purchases) perfect.. it is not yet finished all the tray block must still be well worked .. and the panels made previously must be revised (they are too large)
  9. Thought I'd quickly mention an experiment I'm working on. One of the biggest complaints made of the In Win 901 when it first launched was "form over function", and one of the biggest "lolwhut" design choices is the fully enclosed rear, blocking off access to the motherboard I/O area. In a standard build it'd be bad enough having to pop the rear plate off every time you wanted access to the USB ports or whatever, but it's be impossible for me as I'm mounting a 120mm radiator inside the rear cavity between motherboard I/O and case rear. So there's always been a plan in my mind to reroute the front panel USB 3 ports to the back, tucked up underneath the 360mm radiator at the bottom of the case or some such. But those USB 3 cables are massive, chunky and disgusting even before you try to bend them for half-decent cable management. So how about we try our own? Time for some potato pics... That's 9 wires of 19 (or 18, but I'll get to that in a bit) for 1 USB 3 port. That is a Molex Milli-grid 51110 connector; 2mm pitch with 10x2 circuits. Now, it turns out I misread the specs and bought the wrong ones. These are 51110-2050 which don't have locking ramps or a polarisation key. At the very least you'd want 51110-2052 which has the polarisation key. 51110-2051 has the locking ramps as well, but since the 20-pin header on the motherboard isn't actually a Molex Milli-grid I don't know if the locking ramps will match up correctly. I may replace them, but for now I'm using the pin 1 triangle to indicate the empty pin location and wire up from there. The wires are a little bitten, but not as bad as the picture suggests, because I had to bodge crimp these since Milli-grid connectors are so small. Top is a standard Dupont connector for front panel and the like, bottom is a Milli-grid. As you can see the barrel of the Milli-grid is so much shorter than the computer crimps we're used to it actually rests inside the jaws of the crimp tool, so if you try to treat them like Dupont or ATX crimps you actually crush the barrel. I ended up crimping the cable strain relief on its own and then using needle-nose pliers to grip and flatten the strands crimp. Worked out OK actually, but is a major fiddle and it does dig some minor marks into the wire insulation. Looks like I'll have to sleeve these after all. For the other end, I landed a couple of these fun little USB 3 PCBs off eBay. Quick bit of through-hole soldering and we have a USB 3 port! The pinout on the PCB isn't 1:1 with the motherboard header pinout so there's an annoying cross-over and twist with VBUS, D+ and D- ending up at the other end of the connector, but it'll be hidden 😛 And I'm happy to say that it works...kinda. A variety of USB flash drives all connect and work perfectly, but I am limited to USB 2 speeds because of 1 little question mark: pin 10. You can see from the PCB that each port has 9 pins, but a motherboard header has an additional 19th pin and I don't know what to do with it. The pinout and spec says pin 10 is an "ID pin" used to identify that a USB 3 cable has been inserted, and therefore enable Super-speed mode, but I just don't know exactly how to wire it up. Some say it's another ground pin, but do I hook that into GND on one of the ports? Both? Some claim Asus boards don't even utilise it, but their front panel USB 3 does enable Super-speed mode. I'm not too bothered if I can't get Super-speed mode working because these aren't shielded cables, but it would be nice to at least try. So, if anybody knows how the internal 19-pin cables are hooked up to get ID pin 10 working then let me know! Before I take apart the stock 901 cable since I'm not using it anyway 😁 Fun times with potato pictures, hopefully catch you soon with more updates.
  10. Not even a little bit. -So I made some new router mounts, and deliberately made them undersized. The micrometer was telling me it was slightly oblong, so I went with the median where it was supposed to be. I definitely didn't want another oversize part, after all. What you are seeing above is a bracket clamped down for modification. (Don't judge my clamping. Toilet t-slot bolts, paint sticks, and tile spacers work very well.) I had to cut slots near the base to relax the clamping a bit. I could get the router in the part, but the base was bowing. SNUG. -You can see by the hack-sawed lugs that she was SUPER snug. I added some set screws and plan to add screws to the lugs, but I doubt it needs any more SNUGNESS. Now for some more household archaeology finds... -I found my Dad's old computer textbooks. I thought you might be amused. -Also I need to pad my post a bit. -What? Anyway, I managed to pull the trigger on the Chinese parts. Let's all anxiously await their arrival... in a couple of months.
  11. To all you lovely folks following this log, do me a favour: the next time I even think "individually-sleeved, hetshrinkless front panel cables" somebody please shoot me. What an utter ballache this was! 2mm matte black and electric blue paracord connecting a single 10-pin Dupont I robbed from an Asus Q-Connect adapter for the motherboard and an 8-pin for the front panel PCB. 3D printed a few combs too mainly to help training because paracord isn't very rigid even at maximum stretch, as well as a fiddly end cap for the motherboard end to hide 1 or 2 over-melted paracord ends Not going to comb all the way down as there is an awkward twist to the wires as my PCB pinout is wildly different from the motherboard pinout. Also need a bit of give as I stuff the PCB end into the case and wrap around the front of the 360mm radiator. Utter pain, took a few attempts to get my technique down, but ultimately very happy! 😁
  12. Just popped in to see if you had any deluxe content that I might have missed on Bit. And rep bomb. I miss Bit's system that let me dish out 10,000 rep with a single click.
  13. Thanks Mos👍 Almost done with this panel.. Fill a few ruff spots with spot putty a rub and final primer.First off was to get some primer down. Not sure what to call these things, but hopefully they look cool! i'll show the inspiration for adding these soon. A lot more sanding some more primer and a few coats of spray putty. The inspiration DEEPCOOL'S ASSASSIN III COOLER FANS
  14. thanks for watching, I do not know this procedure, however the frame will be painted and will not be seen at all, the external panels will be mounted on it only the rear support frames will be seen, maybe I will put LEDs inside .. I do not know well yet, for now I am organizing the internal supports to contain all the hardware and the custom loop .. it is not at all an easy thing ... a scratch buold is very different from modifying a case already ready ..
  15. This is looking interesting. Did you consider brazing that aluminum together to get a cleaner look and help with panels fitting better? I have seen where people braze aluminum like you can do with Brass.
  16. YAIBA TO ALL! today a lot of work, I leave the rear part suspended to focus on the front, I make a panel of solid recycled steel from my HP desktop, the metal structure of these old houses is really impressive solid and thick sheet metal, the empty case already has its considerable weight. here it is to install the 360 mm radiator I need supports but at the same time I need to strengthen the structure, let's start .. measurement control and positioning ... now the most interesting part I finish with precision files always checking the measurements I am very satisfied with the result considering that I have no specific equipment and I made everything with basic tools and if I can do it, anyone can do it. check that everything concludes. fastening with rivets, I always check the measurements the structure is now much more solid and stable. to be continued---
  17. processing of the rear part which will consolidate the whole structure the panels are temporary, the tray for the motherboard (on which other panels and supports will be mounted) and for the vertical video card are still missing. I do not rule out making other changes during the work. I preferred to stay a bit wide with the measurements I am always in time to cut if I need .... Just like I do a cardboard sample to do the various tests when I am quite sure I proceed with the various cuts on acrylic. I did the first and I use it as a "master" for all the others, they must be perfect .... at least I try. all done by hand. after taking the right measures I assemble everything the panels that will make up the rear will have thicknesses (now there are not) that will keep them tight and the structure will be more solid.
  18. today 3 steps I had already prepared the support for the power supply unit but I was not happy and did not allow for excellent heat dissipation. everything is designed in such a way that its replacement or removal is also easy realization of the supports for the positioning of the tank and integrated pump these strips will further strengthen the structure which is not yet stable as we proceed, everything will consolidate. EKWB also provides an adhesive where to make the holes very comfortable, all time saved. I also drill holes on the opposite side with a larger diameter so that they can be accessed with the fixing screws addition of upper lateral slats for fixing the entire rear part which will be made of 4 mm acrylic panels with lamellar effect ...
  19. today I focus on the lower part, power supply housing, construction of the supports that will support the shock absorbers those who know me from the beginning know that I like to recycle parts of disused PCs near the landfill, today it has been the turn of an old HP the sheet is incredibly thick and robust cut and shape that interests me. these supports are very important because as mentioned, in addition to housing the shock absorbers, they will also support the acrylic bars to close the structure on the back more forward you will be all clearer ..
  20. the dances begin now that I have most of the material at hand I can evaluate the dimensions ... I start from aluminum strips to build the side frames, a very delicate operation, so both must be extremely precise, maximum precision I try to be faithful to the sketch created (which I don't show you ...) one eye on the render and one on the hardware, I cut .. it is not at all easy to make them the same once you have made one proceed with the second by placing it on the first. as already done for black hawk silt slightly the heads of the rivets this because could annoy the insertion of the side panels. next step to consolidate the structure with steel tubulars between the 2 frames.
  21. first stock of ekwb material arrived a lot of material but the eye only falls on 2 elements the massive waterblock for the RTX 2080 and the CPU block VELOCITY Let's starts ..
  22. next mod coming soon I could not miss this new project another adventure begins. thanks to my sponsors ASROCK, INNO3D, CRUCIAL, SEASONIC, EKWB, HARDWIRE, COOLERMASTER, PC HUNTER configuration motherboard asrock Z390M PRO 4 cpu intel core I7 9700KF gpu inno3d geforce rtx 2080 super twin x2 oc cooling EKWB custom loop crucial memory ballistix max 32 gb kit crucial memory ssdmx500 x2 crucial memory M2 1TB P1 psu seasonic prime PX850W cable mod hardwire addictional fan coolermaster 200 MF R RGB
  23. Nice! It's lookin' good
  24. Time to give the Rear end some loving
  25. Then it's time for another assemble for some more measurements... and a few glamour shots I feel the monochrome shots better represent the end game better than the undercoat blue and grey....There's something about BW pics And again some colour shots for context
  26. With all the main players on the field it was time to get some work done, All the parts undergo extensive primer and prep work and will sit for a few weeks until paint time.
  27. Next to start on the front panel. Add some front vents Put em all together!
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