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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/19/18 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    random2k4

    WOPR - Casecon by RandomDesign

    Finally again a small update on the WOPR After the test fit, I started to glue each part permanently into place. I used a flat MDF sheet as a gluing surface, to make sure all the parts are 100% straight. After some time and a bit of adjustments the basic construction is now finally done. Now, I just need to fill in all the gaps and work slightly on some more areas to make it ready for the paint job. Here is also a picture compared to the fiber glass/bondo version. Hope the difference is as clearly visible for you as it is for me :D
  2. 1 point
    Mosquito

    Corsair 750D Carbon

    yeah, no kidding... my application was more for old tools than for case modding though, so more doable 😄
  3. 1 point
    kaisounovsky

    DIY Black Oxide Anodizing Steel

    Best Sealant & final products : Final Step, best sealant combination I’ve tested is to paint the screws heads with Nitrocellulose Laquer clear coat, which has a good penetration capability, it can anchor to the the Black Oxide magnetite pores underneath, making the whole surface more resistant to shock & friction , Acrylic clear coat can also be used. then the threads were soaked in WD40, I didn’t paint them to not alter their geometry. Finally , the little soldiers are ready :
  4. 1 point
    You would probably also like using neoprene or silicone sleeves on the bits where cable meets connector, also very good for those fraying expandable sleeve ends though bulkier than whipping. You apply them with a tool like a 3 pronged circlip plier (though you can just about get way with using long skinny normal pliers and forcing them open. I did for years). Look for "Hellerman pliers" or "rubber sleeving pliers" (made by more than just Hellerman but that's the main brand). The sleeves are usually supplied in packs of 1" lengths. They are so much nicer to use than heat-shrink. They have a huge advantage over heat-shrink that you can fit them over bulky connectors, expansion ratio is probably 10:1 or better. Tool is very expensive new but you can pick them up second-hand for about a tenner if you're patient. (Not sure if it's Hellerman or Hellermann, both seem to be in use. Possibly depends on age) Nice job with the lacing, I never thought you could make it flat. I just bought a 200m reel of cord to tidy up some cabling inside test equipment, then found your article after deciding I'd better check up on technique since I haven't done it for 30 years! For others wanting to try this, probably best not be tempted by the PVC covered lacing cord. It's cheaper for a reel but you get waaaaay less and it makes bulky and lumpy lacing. Nice finish if used externally I think is it's only advantage. This is my first post on themodzoo btw - hello peeps!
  5. 1 point
    Cheapskate

    Corsair 750D Carbon

    Ghetto lathe!!!! :D -Although if it's blurry in the pic, you may be running way too fast. Ghetto stuff should be done slowly and carefully. We at The Mod Zoo Industries care about your safety.
  6. 1 point
    Cheapskate

    WOPR - Casecon by RandomDesign

    It's much more accurate, but there's people that would kill for the old unfinished shell.
  7. 1 point
    Bill Owen

    Corsair 750D Carbon

    lots of tasty progress pics!
  8. 1 point
    Allright, time to put that 3d printer to use once more! I wanted covers for the motherboard to make it look cool! Because that’s what a motherboard should look like and right now, it’s just boring. Process was the same as all the other prints: print, sand and paint. But this one has a little extra. Here they are on the motherboard after painting. And now to spice things up. A pattern! Okido. I also promised to show the lighting for the PSU cover in this update so let’s have a go with that. I found pretty amazing LED strips that work with a remote instead of software, since this motherboard does not support that. They were also pretty cheap and work just great! They have magnets in them and that works very well, but we need to stick them onto plexi so let’s use some two-sided sticky tape for that. I used some extra glue here, so they don’t come loose in the long run. And we got to tidy up the cables a bit here. PSU is a Cooler Master v600, in case anyone is wondering. And now it’s time to turn those lights on! That is starting to look really good! One extra picture without the light on for the heck of it. This is the original design of the Sheikah eye btw. So you guys have some reference for what we’re trying to create here. That is it for now! I’ll make sure that for the next update, we have some videos of the lights. We also have some really cool new sponsor news ready for the next one. Thanks for watching and stay tuned!
  9. 1 point
    Threw together a little video going over the basics of the screws we using in modding. Drive types, head types, and sizing.
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