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Just popped in to see if you had any deluxe content that I might have missed on Bit. And rep bomb. I miss Bit's system that let me dish out 10,000 rep with a single click.

Thanks Mos👍 Almost done with this panel.. Fill a few ruff spots with spot putty a rub and final primer.First off was to get some primer down. Not sure what to call these things, but hopefully they look cool! i'll show the inspiration for adding these soon. A lot more sanding some more primer and a few coats of spray putty. The inspiration DEEPCOOL'S ASSASSIN III COOLER FANS

So final coat of lacquer dried yesterday and I polished it up, so happy with the finish. Happy with how it came out tbh, onto the next job now.

I'm impressed that these photos are still published, thank you for using proper hosting!

OK, it looks like I'm not going to get Super-speed on my wee experiment. I grabbed the Intel USB 3 and USB Group cable assembly spec documents and nothing in either actually talks about this mythical pin 10. Intel refer to it as "over current protection" but all pin out diagrams and data talk about the big-ass plug (19 pins) or the interface ports (9 pins), but nothing about how the two link together. So I ripped apart the 901's stock front panel cable knowing I won't be using it and had a look 😁 Well won't you look at that. Pin 10 is not connected, but the ports attached to this cable enable Super-speed just fine. Note the "S" for Super-speed on the icon. Plug in my experiment however and we get "H" for Hi-speed (registers as a different hub on the USB 3 root too) So, the upshot is I'm falling foul of impedance limits because the USB 3 spec pretty much states Super-speed capability is a very finicky business. There's something on my DIY job that's causing the controller hub to fail its Super-speed self-test and therefore falling back to USB 2 speeds. Although my wires aren't shielded, they're 24 AWG across the board which is much bigger than the 28-30 AWG listed in the spec so I can't see the copper being the issue. The PCB, however, is a cheapo job so I'm thinking that's where signal quality is lost and kicking out the test. To that end, I'll think about where to go from here. I could go down a direct solder route and hook up the wires directly to the ports (I do have, after all, an internal USB 3 cable already part-shredded 😉) or I could cut my losses and just live with USB 2 speeds. And if I'm going down that route then I can save myself the grief of 8 wires and just use the 10 for USB 2. Still, it's been a learning experience!

a lot of work today ... processing of the tray, very important as it is an integral part of the structure technical dimensions tests positioning of the bracket that will fix the inno3d RTX2060super TWIN X2 video card vertically, here helps me coolermaster who sends me a special bracket designed for his houses but that is fine for what I need but it's not over I have to find a way to fix it firmly to the panels. motherboard placement and holes I have an envelope full of spacers I always take them apart before I get rid of an old case creation of the hole on the tray to facilitate the installation of the fixing plate for the CPU waterblock once you have decided what to do, prepare all the holes for the gpu support bracket after taking the measurements well 3 times I proceed I practice very small holes one points it as a cutter and patiently floods all the holes connecting them creating a groove I help myself with a precision file (one of my best purchases) perfect.. it is not yet finished all the tray bloggo must still be well worked .. and the panels made previously must be revised (they are too large) a lot of work today ... processing of the tray, very important as it is an integral part of the structure technical dimensions tests positioning of the bracket that will fix the inno3d RTX2060super TWIN X2 video card vertically, here helps me coolermaster who sends me a special bracket designed for his houses but that is fine for what I need but it's not over I have to find a way to fix it firmly to the panels. motherboard placement and holes I have an envelope full of spacers I always take them apart before I get rid of an old case creation of the hole on the tray to facilitate the installation of the fixing plate for the CPU waterblock once you have decided what to do, prepare all the holes for the gpu support bracket after taking the measurements well 3 times I proceed I practice very small holes one points it as a cutter and patiently floods all the holes connecting them creating a groove I help myself with a precision file (one of my best purchases) perfect.. it is not yet finished all the tray block must still be well worked .. and the panels made previously must be revised (they are too large)

Thought I'd quickly mention an experiment I'm working on. One of the biggest complaints made of the In Win 901 when it first launched was "form over function", and one of the biggest "lolwhut" design choices is the fully enclosed rear, blocking off access to the motherboard I/O area. In a standard build it'd be bad enough having to pop the rear plate off every time you wanted access to the USB ports or whatever, but it's be impossible for me as I'm mounting a 120mm radiator inside the rear cavity between motherboard I/O and case rear. So there's always been a plan in my mind to reroute the front panel USB 3 ports to the back, tucked up underneath the 360mm radiator at the bottom of the case or some such. But those USB 3 cables are massive, chunky and disgusting even before you try to bend them for half-decent cable management. So how about we try our own? Time for some potato pics... That's 9 wires of 19 (or 18, but I'll get to that in a bit) for 1 USB 3 port. That is a Molex Milli-grid 51110 connector; 2mm pitch with 10x2 circuits. Now, it turns out I misread the specs and bought the wrong ones. These are 51110-2050 which don't have locking ramps or a polarisation key. At the very least you'd want 51110-2052 which has the polarisation key. 51110-2051 has the locking ramps as well, but since the 20-pin header on the motherboard isn't actually a Molex Milli-grid I don't know if the locking ramps will match up correctly. I may replace them, but for now I'm using the pin 1 triangle to indicate the empty pin location and wire up from there. The wires are a little bitten, but not as bad as the picture suggests, because I had to bodge crimp these since Milli-grid connectors are so small. Top is a standard Dupont connector for front panel and the like, bottom is a Milli-grid. As you can see the barrel of the Milli-grid is so much shorter than the computer crimps we're used to it actually rests inside the jaws of the crimp tool, so if you try to treat them like Dupont or ATX crimps you actually crush the barrel. I ended up crimping the cable strain relief on its own and then using needle-nose pliers to grip and flatten the strands crimp. Worked out OK actually, but is a major fiddle and it does dig some minor marks into the wire insulation. Looks like I'll have to sleeve these after all. For the other end, I landed a couple of these fun little USB 3 PCBs off eBay. Quick bit of through-hole soldering and we have a USB 3 port! The pinout on the PCB isn't 1:1 with the motherboard header pinout so there's an annoying cross-over and twist with VBUS, D+ and D- ending up at the other end of the connector, but it'll be hidden 😛 And I'm happy to say that it works...kinda. A variety of USB flash drives all connect and work perfectly, but I am limited to USB 2 speeds because of 1 little question mark: pin 10. You can see from the PCB that each port has 9 pins, but a motherboard header has an additional 19th pin and I don't know what to do with it. The pinout and spec says pin 10 is an "ID pin" used to identify that a USB 3 cable has been inserted, and therefore enable Super-speed mode, but I just don't know exactly how to wire it up. Some say it's another ground pin, but do I hook that into GND on one of the ports? Both? Some claim Asus boards don't even utilise it, but their front panel USB 3 does enable Super-speed mode. I'm not too bothered if I can't get Super-speed mode working because these aren't shielded cables, but it would be nice to at least try. So, if anybody knows how the internal 19-pin cables are hooked up to get ID pin 10 working then let me know! Before I take apart the stock 901 cable since I'm not using it anyway 😁 Fun times with potato pictures, hopefully catch you soon with more updates.

I have been following the wrong link..... https://themodzoo.com/ and thought this forum was down... Anyways thank god for google searches 😄 The work log is getting pretty messy so the delay gets me a chance to clean it up a little Most of you guys have seen this posted elsewhere but i really wanted to have it posted here 😄 A big Thanks to my mates over at MWave for supporting me on this one with some really cool hardware. MWAVEGIGABYTE Z390 AORUS ELITEINTEL I7-9700K GIGABYTE GEFORCE RTX 2060 SUPER TEAM FORCE VULCAN 16GB 3200 INTEL 660P 512GB M.2 4 X SAMSUNG SSD'SLast but not least the star of the show DEEPCOOL ASSASSIN III COOLERAgain thanks MWAVE The Story!I fell in love with the fast looking open style metal alloy cases a while back. Antec, Cougar etc... but there was one i really liked. The Zeaginal ZC-11..But it was soon obvious that getting my hands on this Case was going to be a huge hassle. So i decided to just make my own. HyperCase DM-01 !Where does a build like this start? @ the bottomFor strength it's important to make the base from a single bent sheet of plex and it starts with a cut out from 3mm clear. The next part to fabricate is the top, This is done in 3 sections and braced. Next to make is the spine and motherboard tray.The spine the the largest section of the case and is 6mm thick and will become 12mm thick.The tray is a suspension type and can be adjusted from side to side to suit.

Nice! It's lookin' good

Time to give the Rear end some loving

Then it's time for another assemble for some more measurements... and a few glamour shots I feel the monochrome shots better represent the end game better than the undercoat blue and grey....There's something about BW pics And again some colour shots for context

With all the main players on the field it was time to get some work done, All the parts undergo extensive primer and prep work and will sit for a few weeks until paint time.

Next to start on the front panel. Add some front vents Put em all together!

Next to start work on is the Fan duct Time to sand Then add some accents Some extra work done to the base section

Custom GPU bracket and card support.

Last edited: Jun 1, 2020 Defyant's Mods

So it has been a while since the last update for obvious reasons, but lets crack on shall we, I wanted to paint the top panel and front side panel with a yellow and a bluey green pearl airbrush for the art I was putting down. First the yellow basecoat and then flattening it was done Next it was time to airbrush the design onto the panels, then paint with a fine tip brush some smears onto it (extra paint blobbed down in some areas). After doing this normally we would be moving onto flattening it smooth with a very fine compound, but as I wanted a worn look a coarse compound was used. I am happy with the result, but as with previous mods, I always get ummm and ahhh and more, or should I have done less in my thoughts when doing wear on a buld. On the front panel IO ports I also took the file too them to add some wear and chipping as if the pc was worn a bit these ports should be the most worn. On the top it’s a different story, I wanted to add wear but keep the cyberpunk logo more intact than the rest. Then after this it was onto clearcoating, this will be done in stages to get a deep gloss finish, this is after stage one So slowly coming along bit by bit, why I let the second coat of lacquer dry I moved onto the motherboard heatsinks and io shield, I decided despite what I had done earlier I wanted to do it different so painted them all matt black. Here was what inspired me from in game footage. So I wanted to recreate this style onto the io shields and make it look like someone has used a key or something to scratch the designs in. The worst thing about doing this was due to the size I had to do it with a sewing needle which my fingers did not like one bit, but we are moving along now with the build and more will follow. Until next time.

Someone get my parade permit. I did some electronics stuff...and it worked! -Strip rulers with a strong magnet under the tray is great for solder clamping. -Anyone wanna check my math? -Should be 2800ohm. -Egad, what a snug fit. I added a goop of hot glue in the middle to avoid shorting. -I just finished plugging these in and giving them a spin...successfully. So I have the motor part done. No pic of the inside of the connectors because getting them together is like changing a lightbulb while balancing on the back of your cat. -I suck at analogies. -I do like how 80/20 pack. The insides were divided by paper and wrapped tight with packing cellophane. When I cut the cello, I thought I heard that noise a Coke makes. -OK, I have frame. I just gotta get some stuff to put it together. I had a wad of 1/2" square nuts, but it turns out I need to grind a bevel on the edges to get them in the slots. I also need some motion hardware... Yeah, that stuff might be handy.

I miss the actual Bulgin brand switches though instead of all these rip-off knock-off POSs... a handful of those in a sock could be a lethal weapon.