Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/21/19 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Gettting some lighting action :D heres a gif (if it doesn't work, There will be a link) https://imgur.com/06VpG6I Static image of the lights Rearview of the new wiring setup Getting ready to put the ASUS RYUJIN AIO in Extremely close to being done. Just got to fill a few gaps near the components and get it mounted to the wall. I'll be back soon!
  2. 2 points
    Back with a redo on the LEDs I did the wiring slightly different so I didn't crowd the contacts on the leds Putting the back frame on MoBo Mount ASUS Prime Z390-A TEAMGROUP NIGHT HAWK Legend RGB 16gb DDR4 RAM ASUS ROG RYUJIN 360 AIO CPU Cooler ASUS ROG Thor 1200W Modular RGB PSU with my 3D printed bracket All the parts on the frame. Next I'll be going in on the lighting and showing some of that!
  3. 1 point
    Hi guys here my new project a scratch build hand made it's hard mod SPONSORS ARE WELCOMED enjoy! Here the project starting with aluminium bars to build the frame.
  4. 1 point
    Ever since I finished my Fusion build, I've been wanting to play more with the idea of a simple aluminum tray with brackets to change things up. The possibilities are endless and it's super simple, it's just figuring out how to get it to sit on a desk and look like something that's the challenge. I started with the idea of a clamshell design around the tray. I wanted to try my hand at working with more wood, so I made the mistake of visiting a local lumberyard that stocks hardwoods and exotics. SO MUCH PRETTY STUFF! And I came home with this. Black walnut, 4/4, or about an inch thick, 18 inches wide by about 9 feet long. I was in love. And lucky cause I thought I was going to have to join a couple of smaller boards together to get my side panel. The dude asked what I was working on and proceeded to show me this bad boy. It has a cool knotty area, but what I really wanted for the side was that 6' of nice clean board. After getting a couple of pieces cut off I had to get the cup out of it so I rigged up a routing contraption to flatten it all out. It isn't perfect but I've got two nice flat pieces. Next up is starting on the motherboard tray... Thanks for following along!
  5. 1 point
    So, yeah, no AM4 bracket...dangit! Can we work something out? Luckily, the cooler has a pretty straightforward mounting design using the 4 holes on the plate to connect the different style brackets. So modify or make a bracket, simple enough. Now we just need to figure out the backplate. I originally had a Corsair H110 on this board, so that's a good place to start. Do some eyeballin' Get some pieces of 6061 Al cut out and mounted to the block. I think this is 2mm stock, good and stiff. Pretty them up a bit so it doesn't look like a total hack job. And the hard part, finding some screws to hold it down. I think these are from the 2011 mount for another CM cooler I had, but I tried so many different screws, I could totally be making that up. Naturally I also had to grind down the posts on the Corsair backplate to get them to work because of course I did. I wouldn't call it exactingly perfect, but it does the job. And it didn't fall off! But what is up with that fan? And then on the base to make sure that all looks good. And with the side panels to make sure everything fits inside. But that MB tray, it's killing me. Paint doesn't look good and didn't work anyways. Sandblasting looked OK, but just OK. I've brushed so many pieces of aluminum, along with everyone else, over the years that it's kind of old hat. Classy, but we've covered that ground many times. Engine turned...doesn't really go with the build. But I do like the idea of patterning the Al, so let's just grind some wispy patterns on it and see how it goes. Yeah, that's the ticket. I like the random, wispy grass look. It's a nature themed build so it works. And it's easy and fun to do at home kids! Next up, my not favoritest part, wiring. Thanks for following along!
  6. 1 point
    With the wood side of the case taken care of, it was time to work a little on the aluminum side. With how the panel was going to fit, it needed to go around my PSU bracket. It's not really a jigsaw spot so I wound up giving the dremel some work. Spot on. With that done and me changing up what I was going to do with the switches, that panel was ready for prep and paint, so we'll put that on the back burner for now. Speaking of switches, I needed to figure out some, and also a base for the case. Seeing as I had plenty of walnut left over and that was a major theme of the case, I decided that a base of walnut would be perfect and I'd work some switches into it. So first I had to cut out the base and some pieces to hold my tray, and the rest of the computer for that matter, so I didn't want to skimp on them. Nothing crazy, just some simple arcs to get the tray up high enough in the center to clear the base and not interfere with my side panels. I'm going to use some dowels to join these to the base to give them more strength so a little bump won't knock them loose. And then the switches. I got these little micro switches to use on Deep Blue but never used them. So it's fitting that I'm going to use them with part of a fiberglass panel that I made for Deep Blue and didn't use. I knew what I was doing last year, I was just ahead of myself. This is all a fine start, but what about buttons. Well...wood. I tried to match the grain by cutting the buttons out of the scrap left over from cutting out the base. After it was all said and done, it turned out pretty close, doesn't really show here. So here's the plan, lets see if it works. And yeah, I totally wired the switches wrong. I figured keeping my momentum going was more important that getting them right, I could always come back, pop the switches up, and re-do them. And that's what I wound up doing. First, I had to chisel out some holes for the buttons. And then on the bottom of the base, route a channel for the wiring to the tray mount and give myself an inset for the fiberglass panel and another panel to cover all the wiring. Perfect. Just gonna need some spacers to get the buttons flush. I hope it works. Now I just want to test fit the tray before I go gluing things together. What did I do with that thing? Oh yeah, I drilled a bunch of holes in it. I wanted to do something interesting with the wiring since most of the internals aren't very flashy. And since I very strongly dislike the super precise wiring look, I decided to go the other direction. How about spacing them all out and letting them pick up and carry the leaf motif? So that's the 37 holes for the 24 pin connector plus the 8 and 6 for the GPU, spaced at 5mm. And then just another 8 with nothing fancy for the CPU power. This wiring job is gonna suck, but look really cool....hopefully. I also threw in some slots for the I/O header and SATA ports, big enough for room to grow if the need arises. I painted the tray and components up basic black because I needed them there, but wasn't looking for them to really be attention grabbers. And then test fit everything to make sure I had it all lined up the way I wanted before glue up. The tray sits in some slots and I drilled and threaded some holes for set screws to hold it all together. Everything turned out pretty good, except for the paint. Even with a few days curing, you couldn't handle it without leaving prints and the slots just peeled the paint right off. Grrrr, gonna have to do something about that. But then some routing, some sanding and some gluing. And I have a base. Next time, I'll put all this stuff together again, but for real, LOL! Thanks for following along!
  7. 1 point
    Long time since last update, will try and make up for it with a longer one then usual 😀 First of I finished all the wood working and added the corner pieces that will be holding the front and back pieces in place. Not a single screw will be used for the wood frame itself its all held together with wood joints so it was really solid even before applying glue. Here is plexi for the side windows. This is what it looked like when it was all clamped in for the glue to dry. I really like how the bends turned out with the different layers. Front and back are made of some spare material I found, actually have no idea what its called. But Its made up of some kind of plastic in the middle and very thin aluminum on both sides, that made if very easy to machine with wood tools. Made a wooden jig to help with cutting the holes for the front intake fans, and it worked really well. And thanks Mnpctech for the awesome template 👍
  8. 1 point
  9. 1 point
    Now for more leaf motif! My original idea was a filigree pattern on the walnut side, but there were just problems getting that idea from my head to the board. What style of filigree, how to make it look good with an inlay, how much, etc. And then asking my girlfriend, an artist, to do art for free just bugs me. And, oh yeah, I'm a control freak on things I build. Sooooo, I started throwing around some ideas and a stylized leaf pattern sounded neat, and it set up a nice nature/leaves/wood vibe. So to plan out some things, I got a lot of pictures and photos of walnut leaves. It only made sense since it was a walnut board and walnut leaves, in my head, would work out well for my idea since they're compound leaves, a bunch of leaflets connected to a stem that makes up a leaf(who knew a hort degree would come in useful in modding?). This meant that my design could cover some area without having to get into branches and all that, just leaves. So I plucked some leaves from a picture and laid them out in photoshop. Then using a freaking awesome Wacom tablet/touchscreen thing, I traced the edges and got everything laid out the way I wanted. With the design figured out, it was time to figure out what to do the inlay in, since solder wasn't going to work. I tried a few things but finally landed on epoxy with mica. I did a trial run on a piece of plywood I had, cutting the design on the CNC and then using a tint to get the light plywood closer to the color of the walnut, and then trying different colors of mica. I also did a few trials in a piece of scrap walnut that was finished with tung oil to see how the colors matched up. I decided on an apple green mica. I liked the color, it went with the walnut, and it stood out well enough. Plus, leaves are green. So now for the real deal, throwing that nice walnut board under the bit. And then the epoxy/mica mixture. Will it turn out? Did I ruin a gorgeous board? I'm just going to leaf you in suspense til next time. Thanks for following along!
  10. 1 point
    Brief sharing of activity! I've planned from the start that the brushed aluminium backplate on the graphics card would catch and reflect all lighting in the motherboard area, but given the size of the Titan in the case it does act like an internal wall. So to prevent the motherboard looking like a small area just floating in the top corner of the case, I thought maybe use LED fans to create a soft under glow to give the main chamber a bit of substance, but wasn't too sure how well it work work given the fans will be in pull config and therefore the hubs are pointing downwards. Amazon has discounted the white LED Corsair ML120 Pros, so I pulled the trigger: It's not going to reflect quite that much once the aluminium bodywork is painted, but this has turned out a lot better than I expected 🙂 it also means the beautiful custom DDC top actually gets some love too. Stainless steel plates on the pump top and GPU block reflect the fans nicely, helping with filling that area with soft light. Another step closer!
  11. 1 point
    MAKE YOUR OWN CUSTOM LED NAMEPLATE! I was looking to further customize my PC and was tired of advertising my EVGA graphics card. Tools required: Vinyl cutter like Silhouette Portrait/Cameo or Cricut Explorer STEP 1: Remove nameplate from EVGA GPU STEP 2: Trace nameplate shape on 0.05" acrylic STEP 3: Cut out acrylic STEP 4: Cut out design in Silhouette Studio with black vinyl (I prefer Oracle 651 vinyl) STEP 5: Peel off vinyl cutout with x-acto knife STEP 6: Apply vinyl cutout to acrylic. Smooth out bubbles OPTIONAL: Add colored electrical tape to backside for color effects STEP 7: Apply new namplate back to GPU MORE PICTURES COMING SOON
  12. 1 point
    ImmodderNation

    EVGA PowerLink RGB Mod

    Make the EVGA PowerLink GLOW! Inspired by JayzTwoCents, I added RGB Led lighting to the EVGA PowerLink. Powered off of the 8 pin power cable.
  13. 1 point
    Took me forever to make. lol I will eventually do another one, a little different. Right now I'm working on an Anet A8 to AM8 conversion, using Atomic UV Green PLA. Black 2040 extruded aluminum frame from RatRig. It's going to be my quality printer. Ordering a CR-10S tonight.
  14. 1 point
    More work on the handles. I made grooves in the handles using the big router in previous picture. Now just cut both of those in half and I will have my four handels. And a few pictures without tape.
  15. 1 point
    Well, it's about that time, just one more thing before all the shiny goodness. You might have noticed that I never covered installing a power or reset button. That's probably because I didn't install one. I couldn't find a place where it fit in or where it wouldn't detract from the clean interior. So instead I created a power dongle, I guess you could call it. I took a small reset switch from another case, prettied it up with some heatshrink, and ran it out the cable management pass through in the bottom of the case. Not the most elegant solution, but it does provide a nice hidden switch without cluttering up either the inside or outside of the case. I totally forgot to grab any pics of making it up, but I mention it because it does show up in some of the final shots. Alrighty, time for final pics! And now, let's flip it on it's side. And now details. Thanks for following along! And once again, thanks to my sponsors:
  16. 1 point
    Since I've got a whole lot of water cooling stuff installed, it'd probably be a good idea to run some lines. I'm using Bitspower's 12mm OD PETG with their deluxe white fittings. Since I kind of screwed my self space-wise, trying to keep the case compact, I had to get imaginative with some of the loop. There wasn't enough space for fittings between the GPU and the window so all my runs had to stay between the GPU and the mb. Other than the tight confines around the GPU, most of the line was straightforward. The last two lines I can't do until I get all this in the shell with the radiator. So I guess it's time to mate things up. I want some lighting to brighten things up so I went with some Darkside white LED strips. I mounted them in the top of the shell to give some top down lighting for the components. I ditched the foam tape that was on them since it never stays stuck for long and went with Scotch clear mounting tape. It always does the trick even though it's a pain to cut and get the backing off of. After finishing the last two lines to the radiator, it was time to fill it it up with some Mayhems Blitz to clean the loop and check for leaks. Once that was flushed out, I filled it with Mayhems Pastel white to stay with the black and white theme. And now she's ready for her glamour shots! Again, thanks to my sponsors:
  17. 1 point
    With the wiring done, I could go ahead and install the rest of the hardware. It was a bit of a pain routing all that wire behind the mb. I had to get creative with the routes. It's not what I originally planned but it works well. I still have to tighten the wires up a bit but I'm not using combs. I like that loopy, bundle of wires look. Now it's time to start getting the outer shell finished up. For the graphics, I copied the claw marks from the Krait motherboard in vinyl and applied them to the shell. Simple, but I didn't want anything crazy. Both sides got mirrored graphics and sponsor logos. With the graphics out of the way, it was time for the windows. Some 1/8" clear acrylic for the sides and 1/4" smoked for the ends. I'm using mod blocks to hold the acrylic on and I'll screw the end pieces into those same blocks. Speaking of mounting the end pieces. Almost ready but just a bit more fab work before we can bring everything together. One of those things is this little deal. Needs some paint and vinyl, but then we can cover up the M.2 with something a little better looking than a sticker. Sponsored by:
  18. 1 point
    And now for some paint. Although I really loved the naked aluminum look, I decided that I wanted to bring the design on the motherboard to the outside of the case and go with it's black and white color scheme. To do this I laid down a black base and covered that with 6 coats of clear, sanding after the third coat and the last coat to get everything as smooth as possible before polishing. I'm sure of one thing now...I hate black. Every speck of dust and every slight scratch glares at you. But it does look killer when it's polished up. As you can tell, while I was polishing the hell out of this thing, I was also knocking out my wiring, sleeving all my cables in white paracord. The joy of routing wires through individual holes... But totally worth it when it's done. Once again, thanks to my sponsors!
  19. 1 point
    This case is meant to show off the hardware...all of it...so after the shell was bent, I knocked out some windows. I always promise myself I'm done doing radiused corners, whoops! Next I had to figure out hanging the motherboard tray, and there was a lot of figuring involved. How to bend the top of the tray to keep things from moving around too much was a first priority. But I also had to consider whether the bend was possible for me to pull off and what it would look like in the end. This is what I wound up with. The idea being that three opposing tabs would spread the connection out more across the top of the shell to reduce flexing and keep the tray from levering on just one side of the top. It also spread the screws out across the top bend giving what I think is a better look. Not symmetrical, but balancing it out a bit. Before I could go and mount the tray up, I still had one thing to do, mount the shell to the base to keep it from doing the splits. You might notice a couple of extra holes in the bottom panel. Those are for the back ports of the radiator. The plugs kept it from sitting flush so I drilled a couple of holes to get it to sit down, thinking that it might just help with draining and filling the system as well. Then I put it all together. So far so good. But what about the hardware? Time to test fit that. Talk about cutting it a little close. I had to pull the I/O bracket on the GPU and lower the pump on it's bracket in order to have room to squeeze it all in. But, it fits! You'll also notice in that last picture, I brought the res down to sit in the window and show it off more. Sponsored by:
  20. 1 point
    And now the shell. The idea was a single shell piece that attached to a base panel and it needed to be pretty rigid so I went with some more 2mm 5052 aluminum. But before I could start bending everything into shape, I had to get my grill patterns cut out on the CNC. That or cut out a bunch of little hexagons with a dremel....yeah, CNC. After getting my panels cut to their overall size, I strapped it down and let the Dewalt go to work. And ta-da! That's the bottom panel that will hold the radiator. I came up with a hex pattern that matched the hole spacing on the rad so that the pattern wouldn't have to be manipulated around the screw pattern. The holes line up with the tips of what would be the next hex in the pattern. It's a little restrictive, but looks clean. Next, I laid out the bends and my end panels in order to figure a cable pass-through. The design has all the components sitting well inside the ends so an I/O panel is not much of an option. A nice side effect is a clean back panel, the downside is figuring out what to do with the cabling. Through the bottom panel it is. Then I worked a little magic on the brake. Well, not magic, but I did bend the panel to my will! Muahahahahahahaha! I'll never get tired of that. And one bottom panel. With the rad and fans mounted up. Then there was the shell. Same basic principle. CNC the grills, lay it out and stick it on the brake. I didn't cut my windows out beforehand for a few reasons: 1) I don't trust myself at all, 2) Aluminum stretches a bit when it bends, maybe a 1/16 to an 1/8" on the bends I'm doing, and that might throw things off, and 3) I didn't want to remove that much of the panel and make a weak spot that might get tweaked. This turned out to be a great idea since one of the sections was too narrow for my brake and I had to get a little creative with things. Even though I had to fight it a bit, it turned out perfect. And in the vertical orientation. I like this look. Sponsored by:
  21. 1 point
    Next up I laid out my components on the back side of the mb tray. Nothing really exciting, just marking out mounting holes. Res at the top, pump bottom front, and PSU bottom back. And of course directions of the tray labeled so I didn't make a huge mistake. With that done, I could start getting everything ready to check out the fit. Installing the CPU and block. And while I'm at it, the M.2 Drive and RAM. I've got something special in mind for that M.2 but I'll save that for later. Then I had to mount up the Bitspower backplate to my GPU brackets. Laying it out. And putting it together. I wound up switching to flat head screws and countersinking them for a little extra clearance and peace of mind. And mb and GPU side of the tray ready to go. I hate to say it, but the other side of the tray was really boring. Just mounting parts. So boring, in fact, that I forgot to take pictures of it. But there was a little something special that had to be done before moving to the shell. Off to the CNC! Wire management is going to be a pain because there's just no space to hide wires. I always manage to shortchange myself that way. The solution this time, route the wires through the tray and under the motherboard. Here I'm using the CNC to knock out some 4mm holes with a bit more precision than I could pull off by hand. Sponsored by:
  22. 1 point
    First up on my list of things to do was a motherboard tray. Since pretty much everything goes on it and that determines the final width of everything, it's a little important. I cut out a piece of 5052 Al, leaving some space at the top for tabs, but sticking to the mb dimensions otherwise. To save some space I'm mounting the GPU vertically which requires a riser. This is a very nice one from Li-Heat. Lining up the Lightning and figuring out my measurements. I made three aluminum brackets that will use the motherboard mounts to hold the GPU. Seemed like the simplest plan. With that headed in generally the right direction, I decided to work on the flip side and get the PSU mounted up. A nice little feature on the Silverstone SFX are some extra mounting points. So it was just a matter of figuring out the final location and drilling a few holes to get it mounted up. Thanks to:
×
×
  • Create New...