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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/03/19 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Bill Owen

    It's 2020 and WE'RE BACK!!!!

    Apologies about the forums being offline. Hopefully we're back up for the long haul now.
  2. 2 points
    Long time no updateBut its finally time to finish this project.Moterboard tray fresh of the printer.I used inserts for the screws that will be holding the motherboard in place.And here is the backplate in place.Radiator brackets and every thing put together inside the case.
  3. 2 points
    Cheapskate

    Hyper Case DM-01

    Just popped in to see if you had any deluxe content that I might have missed on Bit. And rep bomb. I miss Bit's system that let me dish out 10,000 rep with a single click.
  4. 2 points
    Defyant

    Hyper Case DM-01

    Thanks MosπŸ‘ Almost done with this panel.. Fill a few ruff spots with spot putty a rub and final primer.First off was to get some primer down. Not sure what to call these things, but hopefully they look cool! i'll show the inspiration for adding these soon. A lot more sanding some more primer and a few coats of spray putty. The inspiration DEEPCOOL'S ASSASSIN III COOLER FANS
  5. 2 points
    rchiileea

    CyberPunked Two 077

    So final coat of lacquer dried yesterday and I polished it up, so happy with the finish. Happy with how it came out tbh, onto the next job now.
  6. 2 points
    Bill Owen

    RGB anti-vandal switches

    I'm impressed that these photos are still published, thank you for using proper hosting!
  7. 2 points
    Cheapskate

    Puddidium235

    -Hey, kids. Remember how I said the bad tolerances would bite me in the butt? ...Yeah. Those are some really bad tolerances. I may be breaking this up and trying again. For now, I'm tweaking the reservoir model and focusing on that. I also have to figure out how to level the tube cut. I apologize for taking baby steps here, but there's so many places I can screw up. ---Old post/New post--- I probably should drop what little I have. I ran into another hiccup, and then got more vacant property. -I milled the test gears sometime around Feb. That's a 1mm bit to get into the cracks. -This is where I figured out it was the cheap bits that was making stuff out of spec. I managed to get perfect friction fits on the stainless steel shafts. That mismatching profile on the small gear was bothering me, though. -Yep. the middle gear doesn't mesh. So I can't continue the reservoir until I find a solution, and I can't make the chassis because I can't get mill parts from China... By the way, Buy stuff from MNPCTech so he can mill me some parts some day. -On that note; With my rental repairs, I've always had what I call the "end of the week/month" jinx. Whenever someone asks if I'll be done by the end of __X__, Something happens to make more work. Something breaks, the city floods, etc. Right before Corona hit, 5 separate people asked if my current repair job would be done within the end of March. So I guess you can blame me for the current chaos. -I used this time to clean up some of the garage, though. I thought this could use some paint after 80 years of abuse.
  8. 2 points
    Bill Owen

    It's 2020 and WE'RE BACK!!!!

    just dont touch anything or anyone, and we'll be fine.
  9. 2 points
    Fr0Zen//pwe

    Tundra EVO - EVO 2020 update

    a friend of mine recently got a 3d printer and, naturally i've been taking full advantage of that getting a host of plates, brackets guides and minor tools designed and printed my cabels from Pexon came in so i had to cut the case a bit more to make room for the cabels down the back of the case so with that done i installed the cables and worked them in to place, here is a before and after one of the goals was to make the loop easy to work on and clean up the look of it, top side of the case just needs rotated cpu block and new tubing the bottom is however another challenge, in the image below you can see that the pump is basically wedged in place by the tube coming off the rad/res, so its impossible to remove easily, plan is to run the pump of a 90 degree bend of the backside of the 4 way block also the parallel tubes going to/from the cpu/gpu are not parallel with anything, not each other not the roof of the basement, this is because the radiator sits 4mm too far inside the case and would push against the fittings hopefully i can fix that soon. i'm currently working on learning fusion 360 but coming from sketchup is hard.. i'm waiting for my top motherboard tray bracket to be printed along with some more bending guides i drew up that's all for now
  10. 2 points
    Good evening people! For anyone looking to do something fiddly to do this weekend i have a perfect project for the you. All of the files for MK3D is now live on thingiverse for anyone to download and build. ( also included a list of everything you'll need in terms of bolts etc. ) If anyone decides to conquer this project i would love to see it, if you upload an image to social media tag me in it ( im @forsbergcustoms everywhere ). https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3992080 Enjoy folks!
  11. 1 point
    small reinforcements added to stabilize the structure as well as reinforcing they will be an excellent decorative element the fabulous EKWB EK connect controller has arrived in addition to the classic functions there are as many as 3 excellent temperature sensors coupled with EK Vardar X3M D-RGB fans here the unboxing [VIDEO] [VIDEO]
  12. 1 point
    Defyant

    Hyper Case DM-01

    I have been following the wrong link..... https://themodzoo.com/ and thought this forum was down... Anyways thank god for google searches πŸ˜„ The work log is getting pretty messy so the delay gets me a chance to clean it up a little Most of you guys have seen this posted elsewhere but i really wanted to have it posted here πŸ˜„ A big Thanks to my mates over at MWave for supporting me on this one with some really cool hardware. MWAVEGIGABYTE Z390 AORUS ELITEINTEL I7-9700K GIGABYTE GEFORCE RTX 2060 SUPER TEAM FORCE VULCAN 16GB 3200 INTEL 660P 512GB M.2 4 X SAMSUNG SSD'SLast but not least the star of the show DEEPCOOL ASSASSIN III COOLERAgain thanks MWAVE The Story!I fell in love with the fast looking open style metal alloy cases a while back. Antec, Cougar etc... but there was one i really liked. The Zeaginal ZC-11..But it was soon obvious that getting my hands on this Case was going to be a huge hassle. So i decided to just make my own. HyperCase DM-01 !Where does a build like this start? @ the bottomFor strength it's important to make the base from a single bent sheet of plex and it starts with a cut out from 3mm clear. The next part to fabricate is the top, This is done in 3 sections and braced. Next to make is the spine and motherboard tray.The spine the the largest section of the case and is 6mm thick and will become 12mm thick.The tray is a suspension type and can be adjusted from side to side to suit.
  13. 1 point
    LePhuronn

    (In Win 901) Asteria II: Rearmoured

    OK, it looks like I'm not going to get Super-speed on my wee experiment. I grabbed the Intel USB 3 and USB Group cable assembly spec documents and nothing in either actually talks about this mythical pin 10. Intel refer to it as "over current protection" but all pin out diagrams and data talk about the big-ass plug (19 pins) or the interface ports (9 pins), but nothing about how the two link together. So I ripped apart the 901's stock front panel cable knowing I won't be using it and had a look 😁 Well won't you look at that. Pin 10 is not connected, but the ports attached to this cable enable Super-speed just fine. Note the "S" for Super-speed on the icon. Plug in my experiment however and we get "H" for Hi-speed (registers as a different hub on the USB 3 root too) So, the upshot is I'm falling foul of impedance limits because the USB 3 spec pretty much states Super-speed capability is a very finicky business. There's something on my DIY job that's causing the controller hub to fail its Super-speed self-test and therefore falling back to USB 2 speeds. Although my wires aren't shielded, they're 24 AWG across the board which is much bigger than the 28-30 AWG listed in the spec so I can't see the copper being the issue. The PCB, however, is a cheapo job so I'm thinking that's where signal quality is lost and kicking out the test. To that end, I'll think about where to go from here. I could go down a direct solder route and hook up the wires directly to the ports (I do have, after all, an internal USB 3 cable already part-shredded πŸ˜‰) or I could cut my losses and just live with USB 2 speeds. And if I'm going down that route then I can save myself the grief of 8 wires and just use the 10 for USB 2. Still, it's been a learning experience!
  14. 1 point
    Mosquito

    Hyper Case DM-01

    Nice! It's lookin' good
  15. 1 point
    Defyant

    Hyper Case DM-01

    Time to give the Rear end some loving
  16. 1 point
    Defyant

    Hyper Case DM-01

    With all the main players on the field it was time to get some work done, All the parts undergo extensive primer and prep work and will sit for a few weeks until paint time.
  17. 1 point
    Defyant

    Hyper Case DM-01

    Next to start on the front panel. Add some front vents Put em all together!
  18. 1 point
    Defyant

    Hyper Case DM-01

    Next to start work on is the Fan duct Time to sand Then add some accents Some extra work done to the base section
  19. 1 point
    Defyant

    Hyper Case DM-01

    Custom GPU bracket and card support.
  20. 1 point
    Defyant

    Hyper Case DM-01

    Last edited: Jun 1, 2020 Defyant's Mods
  21. 1 point
    rchiileea

    CyberPunked Two 077

    So it has been a while since the last update for obvious reasons, but lets crack on shall we, I wanted to paint the top panel and front side panel with a yellow and a bluey green pearl airbrush for the art I was putting down. First the yellow basecoat and then flattening it was done Next it was time to airbrush the design onto the panels, then paint with a fine tip brush some smears onto it (extra paint blobbed down in some areas). After doing this normally we would be moving onto flattening it smooth with a very fine compound, but as I wanted a worn look a coarse compound was used. I am happy with the result, but as with previous mods, I always get ummm and ahhh and more, or should I have done less in my thoughts when doing wear on a buld. On the front panel IO ports I also took the file too them to add some wear and chipping as if the pc was worn a bit these ports should be the most worn. On the top it’s a different story, I wanted to add wear but keep the cyberpunk logo more intact than the rest. Then after this it was onto clearcoating, this will be done in stages to get a deep gloss finish, this is after stage one So slowly coming along bit by bit, why I let the second coat of lacquer dry I moved onto the motherboard heatsinks and io shield, I decided despite what I had done earlier I wanted to do it different so painted them all matt black. Here was what inspired me from in game footage. So I wanted to recreate this style onto the io shields and make it look like someone has used a key or something to scratch the designs in. The worst thing about doing this was due to the size I had to do it with a sewing needle which my fingers did not like one bit, but we are moving along now with the build and more will follow. Until next time.
  22. 1 point
    Cheapskate

    Puddidium235

    Someone get my parade permit. I did some electronics stuff...and it worked! -Strip rulers with a strong magnet under the tray is great for solder clamping. -Anyone wanna check my math? -Should be 2800ohm. -Egad, what a snug fit. I added a goop of hot glue in the middle to avoid shorting. -I just finished plugging these in and giving them a spin...successfully. So I have the motor part done. No pic of the inside of the connectors because getting them together is like changing a lightbulb while balancing on the back of your cat. -I suck at analogies. -I do like how 80/20 pack. The insides were divided by paper and wrapped tight with packing cellophane. When I cut the cello, I thought I heard that noise a Coke makes. -OK, I have frame. I just gotta get some stuff to put it together. I had a wad of 1/2" square nuts, but it turns out I need to grind a bevel on the edges to get them in the slots. I also need some motion hardware... Yeah, that stuff might be handy.
  23. 1 point
    RcRon7

    Jam Packed - InWin A1 Mod

    That looks nice actually
  24. 1 point
    Cheapskate

    It's 2020 and WE'RE BACK!!!!

    And again. This time they forgot to pay the electric bill at the datacenter.
  25. 1 point
    Mosquito

    Jam Packed - InWin A1 Mod

    Thanks! What you didn't see is that was the 4th or 5th one ? I do too, when watching other people's videos, which is why I like to share it in mine as well
  26. 1 point
    Bill Owen

    It's 2020 and WE'RE BACK!!!!

    Just don't move!, ....and maybe the forum will stay on
  27. 1 point
    Skully

    Jam Packed - InWin A1 Mod

    Nice one chap,some nice work going on there ?
  28. 1 point
    Cheapskate

    Puddidium235

    Files skid right over that vise without grabbing. It's really nice steel. OK... I think cabin fever might be setting in. I kinda was burning through a bunch of old paint to get rid of it... and this sort-of happened: I wonder what Grandpa would think. I was laughing my butt off, but that may have been because I didn't have a mask on.
  29. 1 point
    Mosquito

    Tundra EVO - EVO 2020 update

    Yeah, this pandemic thing is sort of screwing all kinds of things up ? Time to stock up on plans and project ideas I suppose ?
  30. 1 point
    Fr0Zen//pwe

    Jam Packed - InWin A1 Mod

    this build alone is making me want to build a SFF rig? about your heat concerns for vega nanos i dont think that rad/fan combo would cool them quietly but it should work as the efficiency goes up with the air to water delta. i remember a guy runing a gtx580 and a 2700k off of two 120 rads sandwiched with a single fan in the middle
  31. 1 point
    Bill Owen

    Jam Packed - InWin A1 Mod

    Great seeing you utilize your new router with custom parts!
  32. 1 point
    Testing it all First test is the easy one. Knowing I'll only need the 12V supply, and I was likely to make a mess of the SATA power soldering, there are no traces for the 5V and 3.3V pins in the PCB, essentially giving myself breathing space if solder crosses over the connections. Also I can use the ground wire furthest from the 12V wire to avoid any short-circuiting there. Hooked up Sacrificial PSU, sacrificial motherboard (because I've lost my jump starter, don't have paperclips and don't have male ATX crimps to make one), Noctua fan to load the 12V rail, hit the switch and... Success! Bright, blinding, flaring success! I shan't put up another 3 pictures of the same blinding light, but suffice it to say all 4 headers work like a charm. The bigger test is the fan splitter. Initial load works perfectly. Full power going to the LED strip, nice and bright LED to glow that power icon. Didn't let it run for long as all that's coming off a single fan header on the motherboard ? The crunch comes tying everything together with the Asus fan extension card. I'm going to use the CPU fan header purely to monitor pump speed, so the 4 radiator fans will come off the extension card, and in turn one of those channels will drive the fan splitter so the 3 ML120s all work in unison. So let's set up a rat's nest of cables and boards. The chunky braided cable is female-female PWM fan cable coming off port 1 of the extension card and into the fan splitter for the trio of ML120s on the 360mm radiator. Port 2 will drive a Noctua NF-A12x15 sat on the single 120mm radiator. There will also be a Barrow temperature probe hooked into the extension card too. Excellent! And a quick test with the horrendous Asus Fan Xpert shows the ML120s reporting their RPM correctly and fully controlled through PWM. So, that's the PCBs covered in this neverending build log. Next up is to measure wire lengths for the proper fan cable and the front panel connectors and get those cable looms made up. Thanks for reading as always, stay safe and wash your damn hands ? Back soon ?
  33. 1 point
    Front panel and fan splitter I'm usually really ham-fisted with small, delicate work, but I'm really quite proud of this solder job, especially as it's been almost a decade since I last picked up an iron. Too much solder here and there, but nothing that can't be cleaned up with some braid later on. Gravity and through-hole soldering are an interesting combination, but complete nonetheless! Those LED holders look ace I must say. In retrospect I should've allowed for the 45 degree overhang in the design, but they were enough of a pain to print correctly at a mere 6mm tall without doing rounded bases and whatnot. Now, do you remember this? This is why I used a longer tactile switch at the end. The angle of the PCB and the recessed switch allow a few mm of movement for the aluminium tongue that forms the power switch. There will be a sliver of frosted or opal acrylic glued behind the power icon cutout which will just rest on the tactile switch. The 45 degree orientation of the LED then illuminates that acrylic sliver to give a nice glowy power icon when the system is running. Since nothing is assembled right now I don't have a picture, but a preliminary test works so very nicely. Also, the black In Win logo strip is illuminated too on the stock case, so I'll be keeping that motif with a small LED strip wedged in somehow and powered by the 2-pin connector behind the power switch. The other tactile switch and LED are reset and HDD activity, and it'll take a pin to activate that switch (by design though). Anybody would think I actually planned all this out ? LED power splitter I'll be honest in saying I made so much of a pig's ear of the SATA power I'm not going to show you ? so cute from above though 4 connections for 4 light sources. The SSD covers and motherboard light ring will hook into the bottom 3 headers, with the 4th spare just in case. Likely to be a small light source above the motherboard to give a bit of flood fill, but we'll see closer to the time. So all made up, but do they work?
  34. 1 point
    Processing of the side panel which provides the logo with leds rgb Preparation of stencils prepared with silhouette studio, decomposition of the logo 1 the! A! red which will be worked with celophan for food rolled to give the effect marble / wear and get as close as possible to the original logo 2 areas in black which will be painted later the dabbing creates this interesting effect another light layer of red will be applied. next phase of the RGB logo that will be applied on the bulkhead. Processing of the side panel which provides the logo with leds rgb Preparation of stencils prepared with silhouette studio, decomposition of the logo 1 the! A! red which will be worked with celophan for food rolled to give the effect marble / wear and get as close as possible to the original logo 2 areas in black which will be painted later the dabbing creates this interesting effect another light layer of red will be applied. next phase of the RGB logo that will be applied on the bulkhead.
  35. 1 point
    Fr0Zen//pwe

    Tundra EVO - EVO 2020 update

    so to no surprise its now like 7 years since i started this mod and im still working on it since the last update in 2015 i upgraded to a 970 until i last year decided that most of the hardware was due for an upgrade so the current specs are 2700x with EKWB block 2080 strix with EKWB block and backplate asus 470f strix mobo samsung 970 evo 1tb samsung 860 evo 32 gb Corsair RAM NB Eloop fans for all rads and full hardtube loop i have cabels on order at PEXONS so once they come in im breaking down the entire system for sleeving and re plumbing the loop ALSO thank you for keeping the forum alive i love this place so much
  36. 1 point
    Mosquito

    Hello and Introductions

    Welcome to the Zoo! I first heard of Bill through an old coworker of mine, who as it turns out shared shop space with Bill for a while. Didn't know it until I saw some of Bill's videos a year or two later, and recognized the shop lol
  37. 1 point
    RcRon7

    CyberPunked Two 077

    Amazing
  38. 1 point
    Looks good. Keep on modding
  39. 1 point
    Mosquito

    It's 2020 and WE'RE BACK!!!!

    lol and the 8-trac backups took a while to bring back ?
  40. 1 point
    Cheapskate

    It's 2020 and WE'RE BACK!!!!

    The server stores it's data on vinyl. There was a scratch...
  41. 1 point
    Cheapskate

    Puddidium235

    The zoo is turning into Mosquito's private hangout. -I have this framework in clear. It's on the inside, and I have a lot of clear, so 99% of the bracing will be layered 1/4" clear. You can see I had to make the ring in 2 pieces and splice it together. -1/8 inch my ass. I found the source of my undersized hole problem. I'm playing fast and loose with the tolerances anyway. I expect it will bite me in the butt about a year from now. These are currently selling as HQ Master brand on Amazon. I'll admit Amazon did finally nuke 90% of the "chinese amway" stuff you've heard me ranting about. These at least cut. -I have a spot on this "end cap" I'm building where the parts overlap. To fix this I planned to mill the bottom of the yellow bits at an angle. I clamped this little jig in the mill. The pictures of the process didn't come out. (Note to self: This plastic + flash = blinding white.) -Hey, I got a picture of it! So these little yellow bits each glue to a spline against the pearl disc. -and I'm already kicking myself for not building alignment tabs into the design.
  42. 1 point
    So I got some parts in to finish up the build. The first one being a Noctua NF-A14 Redux. I like the gray color of this versus the brown of the standard Noctua fans. This will replace the stock A14 on the C14S Noctua cooler. The Redux doesn't come with the isolation pads so I stole them off the stock A14 and they actually look pretty good with the Redux and the leather trim in the case. You can also see I got my paracord for the GPU cables. I went with gold for a bit of contrast and it goes well with the green. And that's it. Pretty simple mods but I really like the way it gives the case a nice classy look. Just what you'd expect in a refined touring car. And now some final shots. Thanks for following along!
  43. 1 point
    FINALS photos so evil so lovely.... a very special trank sto my sponsors INNO3D, SEASONIC, CRUCIAL, ASROCK, DEEPCOOL. HWLEGEND FORUM
  44. 1 point
    Fu3lman

    To whom it may concern...

    ... I really miss all of you.
  45. 1 point
    DeKa

    mini doDKmod, free 3D files

    Hello everyone, I have not been here for a while, and what better way to do it with a very handsome modding project where I can not only share with you the final results, but I can also give you the tools to create an equal one yourself. This project was carried out for Intel in September 2019 for the Insiders showroom in Madrid. Intel authorized me to release these 3D models that you will see below so that you can build a PC in a case like this. In this post I will show you how to create your own PC chassis with 3D printing and style, in the form of a dodecahedron like the boxes of the Intel i9 9900. This is a free community project, where any of you can participate and make your changes ... this is the most important thing, being a community project, I hope you not only dare to print one, but also you inspire for your creations, create extensions or accessories and share them with the community. I show you the result in some photos I am Argentine and I live in Spain, so my language is Spanish, I trust that many of you will be able to find the utility of these videos, regardless of not understanding Spanish. You can download the 3D files from the following Link. http://bit.ly/2mfrPcQ I hope you like the result and / or serve as inspiration. Bye!
  46. 1 point
    cluelessgenius

    Radiator Cover

    sooo...i ended up going with aluminium
  47. 1 point
    random2k4

    "I choose you" by RandomDesign

    Thanks! :D Cause the forum was down a while here is some more of the worklog. Finally, I started to cover the case with yellow and black foil, to stay in the Pikachu/Pokemon theme. And ofc all the holes for the ventilation needed to be cut out. The front panel also got a small Pikachu silouette. On the inside, I put a part of the movie poster. Ob the back side I attached a second silouette and the name giving letters. Last, I build the water cooling. Its a tripple loop system with independant loops for the GPU, CPU and memory.
  48. 1 point
    With everything laid up and mostly figured out, I put down another coat of epoxy to fill any voids, pits, etc. I'm planning on top coating all the pieces, but the better they go in to top coating, the better they'll come out. After that coat cured, more sanding....but it'll be totally worth it in the end. The next thing I wanted to tackle was some tape??? Oh yeah, and a flat piece of CF I laid up earlier under the tape! This is gonna become my door panel. I cut it to size then beveled the back edge so it fit the back panel as close as I could make it. Then I cut the back panel making sure I had enough of a lip for the door to sit on. Came out pretty slick, though I did get the weave going the other way. With that done, I started tackling the finish of the shell. It had some defects that epoxy just wasn't going to fix, at least not fast enough to get it done by QuakeCon. I also knew that I was painting the shell. Two reasons for this, one is that would be a lot of CF all in one place if I left it natural. Two, with the sharp corners, my weave wasn't as perfect as it was on the back panel. So I turned to a polyester filler to smooth out the exterior. I had one more thing to do to the shell before it went to paint...I had to drill out the fan holes. Let me tell you, fun times. I used a 4.5" hole saw and a couple of Bill's fan templates to put some giant holes in this thing. I was worried about the saw jumping or breaking the little bit of shell left between the holes, but it all came out great. With all that done, it was finally time to get spraying. First up, clear coat on the back panel, door, and frame. And an epoxy primer/sealer on the shell, which I promptly sanded and did some more filling on. Nothing like a nice coat of paint to show you all the imperfections. Thanks for following along! And thanks to: and a new sponsor: Who are going to be sponsoring some Fluid Gaming products for when the LANPack evolves to it's final form.
  49. 1 point
    Skully

    Core x71

    Job done Thanks for looking
  50. 1 point
    E.E.L. Ambiense

    RGB anti-vandal switches

    I miss the actual Bulgin brand switches though instead of all these rip-off knock-off POSs... a handful of those in a sock could be a lethal weapon.
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