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  1. 2 points
    Back with a redo on the LEDs I did the wiring slightly different so I didn't crowd the contacts on the leds Putting the back frame on MoBo Mount ASUS Prime Z390-A TEAMGROUP NIGHT HAWK Legend RGB 16gb DDR4 RAM ASUS ROG RYUJIN 360 AIO CPU Cooler ASUS ROG Thor 1200W Modular RGB PSU with my 3D printed bracket All the parts on the frame. Next I'll be going in on the lighting and showing some of that!
  2. 1 point
    Cheapskate

    It's 2020 and WE'RE BACK!!!!

    The server stores it's data on vinyl. There was a scratch...
  3. 1 point
    PCPartPicker Link: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/d9JGpG Good afternoon my fellow enthusiasts! We are COMPLETE!!! Couldn’t be a happier feeling than a working mod. First, we need to clean and prep our trusty ol’ Phenom II Then we can slap on some Arctic MX-4 paste in preparation to install that beastly Freezer eSports Duo cooler ❤️ Cooler installed with our custom AM3 mounts, nice and snug Drives are in and mounted! That cooler is so over kill…. But cable management for the win! Tip of the Day…. Label those drives! Getting Ubuntu server installed We are up and running! Time to get PLEX set up so the family stops bugging me for movie access *laughs* That’s it until we are up and fully running with our RAID and software flying high! Otherwise we are switching gears to work on our Honda Prelude PC mod!
  4. 1 point
    random2k4

    Starwars X-Wing by RandomDesign

    Monitor can be plugged in directly in the back of the GPU, I only cover some but not all connections. I installed 90° connectors on the usb of the mobo, Also I have a small dongle for a wireless keyboard/mouse combo. Its more then enough. But honestly, who would try to use this as a desktop replacement Power cord for the PSU is hidden behind the metal pole. I tied it down with zip ties to make it almost not visible, rest is the magic of photoshop 😄
  5. 1 point
    random2k4

    Starwars X-Wing by RandomDesign

    And some final pictures: We also made a video, showing the making-of in more detail: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rXVfz0cU5pw
  6. 1 point
    RcRon7

    WOPR - Casecon by RandomDesign

    Fantastic Vid dude, Thank you I'll be sharing that, a lot....
  7. 1 point
    FINALS photos so evil so lovely.... a very special trank sto my sponsors INNO3D, SEASONIC, CRUCIAL, ASROCK, DEEPCOOL. HWLEGEND FORUM
  8. 1 point
    Fu3lman

    To whom it may concern...

    ... I really miss all of you.
  9. 1 point
    DeKa

    mini doDKmod, free 3D files

    Hello everyone, I have not been here for a while, and what better way to do it with a very handsome modding project where I can not only share with you the final results, but I can also give you the tools to create an equal one yourself. This project was carried out for Intel in September 2019 for the Insiders showroom in Madrid. Intel authorized me to release these 3D models that you will see below so that you can build a PC in a case like this. In this post I will show you how to create your own PC chassis with 3D printing and style, in the form of a dodecahedron like the boxes of the Intel i9 9900. This is a free community project, where any of you can participate and make your changes ... this is the most important thing, being a community project, I hope you not only dare to print one, but also you inspire for your creations, create extensions or accessories and share them with the community. I show you the result in some photos I am Argentine and I live in Spain, so my language is Spanish, I trust that many of you will be able to find the utility of these videos, regardless of not understanding Spanish. You can download the 3D files from the following Link. http://bit.ly/2mfrPcQ I hope you like the result and / or serve as inspiration. Bye!
  10. 1 point
    random2k4

    "I choose you" by RandomDesign

    Thanks! :D Cause the forum was down a while here is some more of the worklog. Finally, I started to cover the case with yellow and black foil, to stay in the Pikachu/Pokemon theme. And ofc all the holes for the ventilation needed to be cut out. The front panel also got a small Pikachu silouette. On the inside, I put a part of the movie poster. Ob the back side I attached a second silouette and the name giving letters. Last, I build the water cooling. Its a tripple loop system with independant loops for the GPU, CPU and memory.
  11. 1 point
    With everything laid up and mostly figured out, I put down another coat of epoxy to fill any voids, pits, etc. I'm planning on top coating all the pieces, but the better they go in to top coating, the better they'll come out. After that coat cured, more sanding....but it'll be totally worth it in the end. The next thing I wanted to tackle was some tape??? Oh yeah, and a flat piece of CF I laid up earlier under the tape! This is gonna become my door panel. I cut it to size then beveled the back edge so it fit the back panel as close as I could make it. Then I cut the back panel making sure I had enough of a lip for the door to sit on. Came out pretty slick, though I did get the weave going the other way. With that done, I started tackling the finish of the shell. It had some defects that epoxy just wasn't going to fix, at least not fast enough to get it done by QuakeCon. I also knew that I was painting the shell. Two reasons for this, one is that would be a lot of CF all in one place if I left it natural. Two, with the sharp corners, my weave wasn't as perfect as it was on the back panel. So I turned to a polyester filler to smooth out the exterior. I had one more thing to do to the shell before it went to paint...I had to drill out the fan holes. Let me tell you, fun times. I used a 4.5" hole saw and a couple of Bill's fan templates to put some giant holes in this thing. I was worried about the saw jumping or breaking the little bit of shell left between the holes, but it all came out great. With all that done, it was finally time to get spraying. First up, clear coat on the back panel, door, and frame. And an epoxy primer/sealer on the shell, which I promptly sanded and did some more filling on. Nothing like a nice coat of paint to show you all the imperfections. Thanks for following along! And thanks to: and a new sponsor: Who are going to be sponsoring some Fluid Gaming products for when the LANPack evolves to it's final form.
  12. 1 point
    random2k4

    "I choose you" by RandomDesign

    Next up, I built the mounting for the water tanks. I simply glued everything on a plywood sheet what will perfectly fit into the right compartment. The water tanks will be placed in the holes and stabilized from the bottom. To make the construction look more like a city scene, I 3d printed panels with windows inside. There will be a light effect later on behind the windows. For my next step, I needed to completely dismantle the LEvel 20. Which is suprisingly easy. Just unscrew some screws and you are done. After everything was dismantled, I set the position of the drain ports.
  13. 1 point
    Ever since I finished my Fusion build, I've been wanting to play more with the idea of a simple aluminum tray with brackets to change things up. The possibilities are endless and it's super simple, it's just figuring out how to get it to sit on a desk and look like something that's the challenge. I started with the idea of a clamshell design around the tray. I wanted to try my hand at working with more wood, so I made the mistake of visiting a local lumberyard that stocks hardwoods and exotics. SO MUCH PRETTY STUFF! And I came home with this. Black walnut, 4/4, or about an inch thick, 18 inches wide by about 9 feet long. I was in love. And lucky cause I thought I was going to have to join a couple of smaller boards together to get my side panel. The dude asked what I was working on and proceeded to show me this bad boy. It has a cool knotty area, but what I really wanted for the side was that 6' of nice clean board. After getting a couple of pieces cut off I had to get the cup out of it so I rigged up a routing contraption to flatten it all out. It isn't perfect but I've got two nice flat pieces. Next up is starting on the motherboard tray... Thanks for following along!
  14. 1 point
    Beautiful. :D I want a disco wall now. I suspect I'd figure out I know people with epilepsy REAL quick, though.
  15. 1 point
    Hello and welcome to my newest build :) I've been modding for 10 years now and usually my themes are of a pixelated design. This mod is named ColorFalls as the case will be built to hang from a wall and look like it's made out of hundreds of cubes that each have a LED and will have patterned lighting effects). I will be 3D printing this case and expect to use about 9 lbs of plastic to make. Here is my CAD design so you can visualize the project. ] My sponsors for this mod Components ASUS Prime Z390-A ASUS GTX 2060 STRIX 6GB ASUS ROG RYUJIN 360 AIO CPU Cooler ASUS ROG Thor 1200W Modular RGB PSU TEAMGROUP NIGHT HAWK Legend RGB 16gb DDR4 RAM TEAMGROUP T-FORCE Delta RGB 250gb SSD TEAMGROUP MS30 M.2 SATA SSD CPU I5-9600k Heres a few photos of my previous work: I'll be back soon with some progress of the printing and whahtnot! Its showing it will take 2 weeks of printing time to get the main body done. I'll be back sooner than that though to show the 3D process :)
  16. 1 point
    Here it is! This is a gif of the lighting: https://i.imgur.com/zhxuomY.mp4
  17. 1 point
    Man that looks like a lot of work!
  18. 1 point
    With the wood side of the case taken care of, it was time to work a little on the aluminum side. With how the panel was going to fit, it needed to go around my PSU bracket. It's not really a jigsaw spot so I wound up giving the dremel some work. Spot on. With that done and me changing up what I was going to do with the switches, that panel was ready for prep and paint, so we'll put that on the back burner for now. Speaking of switches, I needed to figure out some, and also a base for the case. Seeing as I had plenty of walnut left over and that was a major theme of the case, I decided that a base of walnut would be perfect and I'd work some switches into it. So first I had to cut out the base and some pieces to hold my tray, and the rest of the computer for that matter, so I didn't want to skimp on them. Nothing crazy, just some simple arcs to get the tray up high enough in the center to clear the base and not interfere with my side panels. I'm going to use some dowels to join these to the base to give them more strength so a little bump won't knock them loose. And then the switches. I got these little micro switches to use on Deep Blue but never used them. So it's fitting that I'm going to use them with part of a fiberglass panel that I made for Deep Blue and didn't use. I knew what I was doing last year, I was just ahead of myself. This is all a fine start, but what about buttons. Well...wood. I tried to match the grain by cutting the buttons out of the scrap left over from cutting out the base. After it was all said and done, it turned out pretty close, doesn't really show here. So here's the plan, lets see if it works. And yeah, I totally wired the switches wrong. I figured keeping my momentum going was more important that getting them right, I could always come back, pop the switches up, and re-do them. And that's what I wound up doing. First, I had to chisel out some holes for the buttons. And then on the bottom of the base, route a channel for the wiring to the tray mount and give myself an inset for the fiberglass panel and another panel to cover all the wiring. Perfect. Just gonna need some spacers to get the buttons flush. I hope it works. Now I just want to test fit the tray before I go gluing things together. What did I do with that thing? Oh yeah, I drilled a bunch of holes in it. I wanted to do something interesting with the wiring since most of the internals aren't very flashy. And since I very strongly dislike the super precise wiring look, I decided to go the other direction. How about spacing them all out and letting them pick up and carry the leaf motif? So that's the 37 holes for the 24 pin connector plus the 8 and 6 for the GPU, spaced at 5mm. And then just another 8 with nothing fancy for the CPU power. This wiring job is gonna suck, but look really cool....hopefully. I also threw in some slots for the I/O header and SATA ports, big enough for room to grow if the need arises. I painted the tray and components up basic black because I needed them there, but wasn't looking for them to really be attention grabbers. And then test fit everything to make sure I had it all lined up the way I wanted before glue up. The tray sits in some slots and I drilled and threaded some holes for set screws to hold it all together. Everything turned out pretty good, except for the paint. Even with a few days curing, you couldn't handle it without leaving prints and the slots just peeled the paint right off. Grrrr, gonna have to do something about that. But then some routing, some sanding and some gluing. And I have a base. Next time, I'll put all this stuff together again, but for real, LOL! Thanks for following along!
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    Now for more leaf motif! My original idea was a filigree pattern on the walnut side, but there were just problems getting that idea from my head to the board. What style of filigree, how to make it look good with an inlay, how much, etc. And then asking my girlfriend, an artist, to do art for free just bugs me. And, oh yeah, I'm a control freak on things I build. Sooooo, I started throwing around some ideas and a stylized leaf pattern sounded neat, and it set up a nice nature/leaves/wood vibe. So to plan out some things, I got a lot of pictures and photos of walnut leaves. It only made sense since it was a walnut board and walnut leaves, in my head, would work out well for my idea since they're compound leaves, a bunch of leaflets connected to a stem that makes up a leaf(who knew a hort degree would come in useful in modding?). This meant that my design could cover some area without having to get into branches and all that, just leaves. So I plucked some leaves from a picture and laid them out in photoshop. Then using a freaking awesome Wacom tablet/touchscreen thing, I traced the edges and got everything laid out the way I wanted. With the design figured out, it was time to figure out what to do the inlay in, since solder wasn't going to work. I tried a few things but finally landed on epoxy with mica. I did a trial run on a piece of plywood I had, cutting the design on the CNC and then using a tint to get the light plywood closer to the color of the walnut, and then trying different colors of mica. I also did a few trials in a piece of scrap walnut that was finished with tung oil to see how the colors matched up. I decided on an apple green mica. I liked the color, it went with the walnut, and it stood out well enough. Plus, leaves are green. So now for the real deal, throwing that nice walnut board under the bit. And then the epoxy/mica mixture. Will it turn out? Did I ruin a gorgeous board? I'm just going to leaf you in suspense til next time. Thanks for following along!
  21. 1 point
    MAKE YOUR OWN CUSTOM LED NAMEPLATE! I was looking to further customize my PC and was tired of advertising my EVGA graphics card. Tools required: Vinyl cutter like Silhouette Portrait/Cameo or Cricut Explorer STEP 1: Remove nameplate from EVGA GPU STEP 2: Trace nameplate shape on 0.05" acrylic STEP 3: Cut out acrylic STEP 4: Cut out design in Silhouette Studio with black vinyl (I prefer Oracle 651 vinyl) STEP 5: Peel off vinyl cutout with x-acto knife STEP 6: Apply vinyl cutout to acrylic. Smooth out bubbles OPTIONAL: Add colored electrical tape to backside for color effects STEP 7: Apply new namplate back to GPU MORE PICTURES COMING SOON
  22. 1 point
    ImmodderNation

    EVGA PowerLink RGB Mod

    Make the EVGA PowerLink GLOW! Inspired by JayzTwoCents, I added RGB Led lighting to the EVGA PowerLink. Powered off of the 8 pin power cable.
  23. 1 point
    And now for some final pictures: We also made a short making-of: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2SA9V4SRDMo
  24. 1 point
    Wasted print: Would it be possible to print a layout frame, then print the cubes upside down? You could get a smoother face too. -I know... more glue, not as strong, but supports and stuff could be added. The test block looks fantastic.
  25. 1 point
    Thanks Mos! I have a pic to show you once I get them unpacked, but got a small set of nice hand planes. I saw them and thought of you. Lady gave them to me for free with a load of other hardware, fasteners, tools that I got for $30. I'm going back to clear out more hardware/lumber/sheet metal as she's prepping to sell her house after her husband passed a year ago. Even getting my hands on an older table saw for $10 ?
  26. 1 point
    Shadow of the Tomb Raider Mod Pubblicato il aprile 7, 2019di MAYHEM One day he contacted me on my FB channel a well-known Italian modder "Twister" I already knew this modder by reputation and I appreciated his work, he says: "I find your mods beautiful I would like to collaborate with you, give me your phone number let's hear! ”, needless to say that it made me a great pleasure. As a word he calls me and we begin to know each other, we leave each other by greeting each other. After a few months I get a message coming a mod, ... it's a question of replicating in part this customization of shadow of the tomb raider made on a very famous microsoft console on the net as it was auctioned for charity and sold to an exorbitant price. the case on which to work is very different it is a CASE PHANTEKS ENTHOO ELITE FULL TOWER a huge case of excellent material. This case is so big and heavy (about 80KG empty) that it comes with its flightcase and sturdy bands to pull it out. I immediately get to work and taking the measurements on the site of the builder begins to think about how to make it. Arriving at the solution, based on the design of the console, you need to create plexiglass panels with Mayan glyphs and a calendar, Twister proposes that you could engrave with the laser he has everything you need once you arrive the case would make all the parts, he would send me everything and I would take care of the delicate painting job, to then send back the case for the final internal assembly with top-level hardware and a customized liquid cooling system. Intercept a dense correspondence interspersed with phone calls to solve any problems that may be created, shortly after Daniel sends me the first photos of the panels made by him, everything goes well with the enthusiasm of both. Once all the panels have been made, Daniel offers to bring it to me personally (he is often in Milan) to discuss the details, spend a nice afternoon eating a pizza made by my wife and craft beer. The effects of beer can be felt and seen. The case is really huge. first of all I buy the acrylic colors and I do color tests, light brown and yellow earth of burnt sienna, all from these 2 colors mixed in specific percentages. Background brown, light brown, and a still lighter brown for the final finishing, let's start the dances. Once I have ascertained the color I proceed with everything else, I had to dismantle most of the houses, and it was a good opportunity to see such an expensive case. I apply the dark brown background with a brush to reach the deeper furrows, and with a sponge the light brown being careful not to go into the furrows that must remain dark. Daniel has foreseen everything even the possible thicknesses due to the thickness of the excess plexigrass has dutifully blunted the parts for closing the front panel. I take care of all the details and leave nothing out. I also paint some internal components just to stay on topic with the whole. Here comes the highlight, the calendar, this element is suspended with the supports under it will go the RGB LED, in this way a soft light will illuminate the bulkhead with a pleasant effect. Now the time has come to give the final effect a bit of moss, it is the Christmas season for which it was not difficult for me to find moss for a manger at a negligible price 99 cents an envelope ... It is too often I have to grind it and set it to create the moss effect. I apply some glue and sprinkle with fake moss on the god it presses the appearance a few seconds and I clean with a brush, the effect is amazing the whole acquires 50% more. Now I have to apply the effect also on the rest of the case, being careful not to exaggerate and evaluate the parts in which the real moss would form, therefore in the cracks and in the parts in shadow Once cleaned and reassembled, this is the final result .. We are both enthusiastic about how the work proceeds, now the ball goes to Twister who will have to assemble all the internal hardware and create a green liquid cooling system out of nothing, pack the case and send everything to him. components of all respect the customer's portfolio cries ... This machine finished with the cooling system installed by twister. This is his configuration. thanks.
  27. 1 point
    Lots of little things coming together to add up quite nicely. Great work!
  28. 1 point
    Next, I worked on the electrical parts. Solderes and glued in some LED strips for a fading effect. I got the power directly form the power supply pins on the motherboard. The power supply has 19,8 V and I only needed 12 V so I installed a small power converter at the M.2 mounting spot. Next, I glued all parts on the outer shell using epoxy. Finally, I made some more details.
  29. 1 point
    Next, I worked on some small detail. Therefore, I used a material called metal foam. It was cut to size, to make it fit in the left halft of the case. Perfect. Then all parts were primed. I ended up with applying another, darker grey tone, to give the following metalic color, a better contrast. Finished everything up with a layer of glossy clear coat. But after the weathering it will dulled down again.
  30. 1 point
    Skully

    Core x71

    Hi all,bit more done still loads to do :) Thanks for looking :)
  31. 1 point
    Now almost all parts are printed. Also made some tests to see if everything still fits together. After all parts were wet sanded, I applied couple layers of spray filler. After the filler, all spots that needed some more attention got visible and were filled with some spot putty. Then everything was was wet sanded again.
  32. 1 point
    fu·sion Dictionary result for fusion /ˈfyo͞oZHən/ noun noun: fusion; plural noun: fusions 1. the process or result of joining two or more things together to form a single entity. "a fusion of an idea from anthropology and an idea from psychology" synonyms: blend, blending, combination, amalgamation, joining, bonding, binding, merging, melding, mingling, integration, intermixture, intermingling, synthesis It's time for a new personal build for me. I know I just finished up my H-Frame inspired Deep Blue, but it's just not doing it for me. Don't get me wrong, I really do like the case, but not enough for it to have a spot on my desk as a daily driver. Whenever I look at it things just stand out that bug me either in the design or the fabrication. I've gotten to the point that I have a mental checklist of things that bother me. Size - It's fooking huuuuge. I like big cases with room for things to have their own space, but this thing is a big case plus a 1.5-2" border all the way around. It's too much. Water Cooling - The bends aren't bad, but they aren't perfect and I know it and that bothers me. And if I did it again, I'd probably go stainless. And, though I like the look and the idea of water cooling, and I freaking love the Maelstrom res that Swiftech gave me, it's pointless for me. It's total eye candy. I barely overclock the CPU and don't touch the GPU, so I wind up with more maintenance, risk of catastrophic failure, and PIA upgrades so that the CPU and GPU don't thermal throttle at levels that I rarely run at. Most of my time is spent on the internet or gaming at 1080p 144MHz, I think a 6800K and a 1080Ti can handle that on air. Color - I love the blue dyed curly maple...but...on my desk where there isn't crazy amounts of light, it's just blue. No grain, no shimmer. Just blue. If I had large flat areas where it could catch the light, it would look gorgeous, but it doesn't and that's a shame. Overall Look - This is a cool case at a LAN where you can take it all in, but with my desk setup and the way the acrylic panels are held on, it reminds me of the TT wall mount computers and that just aint right. It bothers the eff out of me to be honest. With the meh look and the meh string of 100's of P whatever TF mods which were only distinguished by what color and how many curly q's were in the hardline, I'm not down with that comparison in my head. Something has to change. On top of that, there are way too many straight lines. It feels sharp and angular and I don't want that next to me all the time. So, I like it, but I don't love it, and I want a computer that I love to look at on my desk. Starting with these issues with Deep Blue, I began a design, smaller, air cooled, no finned panels, and some curves to soften it all up. But I also wanted to incorporate some different materials. Two of these materials are part of what give Fusion it's name, they're composites, carbon fiber and plain old, generic plywood. The rest of Fusions name comes from fusing these two very similar yet very different materials together with some aluminum to create a single case. Now that I've given you a glimpse of my artsy, poetic side, it's time to get to bashing some metal into shape. I'm gonna start with some aluminum, some very fried components, and a hammer. In the aluminum department, I'm going with .08" or 2mm 5052 alloy. Strong but it allows me to puts some bends in where I want them. The fried components are a poor TUF X299 board and GTX1080Ti that suffered catastrophic failure due to water cooling. Stuff got wet, stuff died. Thank god it wasn't mine. They're stand-ins for my actual working hardware for the time being. The hammer, well it's just a hammer. The design is based on attaching everything to a single aluminum panel the size of an ATX board. Since I've done this before for my Twelve 80 build, I knew where I was heading, though I wanted to add a new touch along the way to make upgrading easier. Topside layout. You might notice the aluminum bracket there. In Twelve 80, I used two of these, which attach at the standoff locations, to hold the graphics card. Although it works, it is a bit problematic mounting the GPU to brackets using the backplate, and swapping GPU's means you get to do it all over again. My new plan of attack is to use the bracket as a stand to keep the GPU from sagging but not to actually attach the GPU to it. I'm going to bend up a bracket in the back to actually hold the GPU. All laid out. And cut out Before I started bending, I went ahead and drilled and tapped my standoff locations so I wouldn't have any drill clearance issues next to the GPU bracket. And now the hammer comes into play. Using the vice as a brake to bend out the tab for the GPU mount. Now I don't know if you noticed the problem that I was about to have, but I sure didn't at the time. Turns out the space between that bend and the next bend for the bracket was too tight for my brake and also wouldn't fit in the vice. The solution was to mount the piece in the brake upside down and backwards and use a hammer to bend the Al against the brake bed. It wasn't pretty. I'll spare you the carnage. But what came out wasn't bad, just had a few dozen extra hammer dings in it and a bit of a weird wave that I'll need to straighten out. Or not, but I'll get into that in a bit. And then mounting the hardware. With a short riser cable, this is a tight and tidy setup and there is still some rounding of corners to smooth up the design. The CPU cooler should work with this since the edge of the card is lined up with the top PCI bracket. Now all that's left of the heart of the build is to mount the rest of the hardware on the bottom of the panel. Or is it... Don't you hate it when you get a panel designed...and laid out...and cut out...and bent...and the hardware installed...and suddenly into your head pops this voice saying, "Hey, you know what would have been cool is to add a couple of bends to the other side of the panel to mount your switches into. You know, since you've been wondering how you were going to work them out." So yeah, I'm planning on remaking the panel incorporating something like a C-channel or maybe just a tab on what would be the right edge of the panel in the pic below. Luckily, I've got a template, that I know works, drawn up that I can pull all the measurements off of, and maybe this time I can bend things in the proper order and not have to pull out the Hammer of DOOOOM!!! to make things work. But that's for next update, until then I'm gonna be looking for some cool switches and stuff I can mount to offset the extra work I'm making for myself. Until next time! Thanks for following along!
  33. 1 point
  34. 1 point
    This will be interesting to watch. Don't see too many laptop mods these days.
  35. 1 point
    So this is how I will be bending and making the top and bottom "handles"I need something to bend the thin sheets around so that was part 1 of the process and that was easily done with some MDF scrap pieces. Here is the template rounded and covered in tape to avoid the glue from sticking. Here is the material I will be using. I also made a outer part for the template by bending 5mm plywood, that will also help equalize the pressure along the curve. And now ever thing is ready to be glued together and clamped down, the grain of each sheet is going against each other to get a stronger final product. You can also see the template was made with "shelves" to make clamping easier. Here is a better picture of the layers. And I also made a second one the next day.
  36. 1 point
    Excellent design.
  37. 1 point
    Alright, now's when things get interesting...well for me at least. Bringing all of this together is a bit complicated since a lot of parts depend on other parts for their layout. So there's a lot of make this to make that and then going back to see if the original part actually worked. I'm gonna start with a couple of pieces of plywood about an inch bigger all around than my tray. I say about because there's about a 1/4" extra on the front overhang. Not for any particular, just figured 12" was easier to work with than 11.75. I don't remember the particulars about the plywood, it's in the 3/4" range, decent grading. I'm gonna go with the more bland grain on the outside because there's a gap in the ply that wouldn't work with my plan to route the edges if I flipped the boards the other way. I'm gonna start with laying out from the bottom and work my way up since I don't have my cooler yet and that is definitely going to affect the top board. So I laid out the dimensions of my tray and marked out the leg locations and the PSU fan location. The PSU fan hole is pretty straightforward. For the legs, I had been thinking of running them through the board and using them as feet as well. I like the look, but I think I'm going to have to epoxy the CF bends to the boards which means I have no way of getting the hardware in or out if the legs run through the bottom or are glued. To keep the look but leave myself the ability to work on it later and even assemble it, I split the legs. For the tray mounting part, they just screw in from either side through the tray and the bottom board. To give myself feet, I counter sunk the screw locations large enough for the dowel to push in. Next up figure an approximate leg length. I can always re-cut these if I need to adjust later. Then cut some feet and drive them in the holes I made for them. I think the feet are a little tall, but I'll wait til final assembly to work out the exact height I want it. Sort of depends on how the case as a whole sits. With that out of the way, I decided to go ahead and get the aluminum finishing out of the way. I wanted to try a sandblasted finish. You don't really see it around and I'm not looking for something real flashy so it was worth a try. I can't say I'm totally in love with the dull gray since I'm a glossy clearcoat kind of guy, but I like the texture and up close it's an interesting look, so we'll see how it works with all the other material finishes. Last but not least, a piece of snowy sewer pipe that I have plans for. What are those plans, check back next time! Muahahahahahaa! Thanks for following along!
  38. 1 point
    So this should be a shorter update since I'm not cramming a thousand things in. First off, my Silverstone SX700-LPT came in. 700 watts, platinum rating, and it's a wee little baby. It's smaller than the fans in my V1200 and V850. They're 135mm's and this thing is 130mm long. I'm thinking this and it's 800w sibling might be my go to models from now on. Expensive, but the options this opens up in designs. Enough fawning for now. On my other Silverstone SFX, the screws that mount the PSU's board to the outer body didn't go all the way through the inserts, allowing me to use them as extra mounting locations. This one, not so much. So lets pull apart a brand new PSU, why not? I traded out 3 of the four mounting screws for longer ones, giving me studs on the bottom of the PSU. The 4th one sat under the switch and plug and I didn't feel like fighting to swap it out. Couple of M3 nuts on the back side and voila! With that mounted, I could cut in some wire pass throughs to route the wiring under the motherboard. The more I look at this tray, the more I'm thinking I need to copy the layout to a CNC program. It's starting to look like a good starting layout for a mini-tower build and having that 301 front panel layout would really be handy. With an mITX board, slip the PSU under where the GPU is now, and put the GPU back in it's standard location, this would be a tight little build. The last thing I need to do before I finish this panel is work out how I'm gonna mount it in the case. I want it to sort of float in between my wood panels. I decided to give it 3 legs. Not so many that I couldn't hide them and not so few that I had to worry about balance and strength problems. I just cut some dowel for now so that once I get the panel finished I can piece some of it together and start working on the wiring. But I figure I've got some decent options as I go forward. Right now, I'm seeing the dowels finished in a lighter, contrasting color to the rest of the wood in the build and having them go through the bottom wood panel and acting as feet for the case when it sits like a desktop. I think that might give it a sort of handcrafted furniture feel. That's it for now, but thanks for following along!
  39. 1 point
    After getting the tray laid out and made, I decided that there was a nice spot for some switches...if I had incorporated a spot for the switches. So let's remake the panel! It's not a bug in my process, it's a feature. First off I want to get the channel laid out so that I don't screw myself somewhere else. First bend. I spent an afternoon looking for cool switches but nothing really stood out to me except for making a capacitive panel. Unfortunately, since the panel I would have to use for that is the entire MB tray, that seemed like a bad idea. But then I remembered I had a few front I/O panels from other cases I've completely torn apart and started going through my stash. First one I found was from an IN WIN 301 and except for the power and reset button, it was pretty much cut some holes and it slots right in. Perfect. Since the power and reset buttons are a separate piece and operate switches on the board of the I/O I had to figure something out. It has a mounting bracket in the 301 that holds the buttons and the I/O panel, but that would add to much width to the whole setup, so I went for a work around. I used some cyanoacrylate adhesive to glue the buttons to the I/O and the switches they actuate and cut the extra bracket off. Yeah, I just superglued it, but CA just sounds so much more professional. Then I measured the I/O for my next bend for the channel. Another bend and that's gonna work out nice. After that I went through all the other layout and cutting that I had done before, except this time, bending the GPU bracket in the right order. Now I had to cut out the holes for the I/O and get it mounted. Started with a template from a 301 I swear I'm gonna finish some time. Transferred that to my tray. And with a lot of drilling, grinding, and filing, I finally got it to fit. To mount it, I had thought about epoxy, but then I wouldn't be able to ever take it out and that seemed like a bad idea. Next idea was some screws behind it to basically keep it from falling out, but I wasn't too keen on that either. Decided to make some brackets that would pull it tight to the aluminum, even though that required some screws showing. Not my fave, but I can live with it. Trimmed some of the extra plastic of the trim plate for this one. And Bob's your uncle. Now I'm not renaming the project NIM NI though that is tempting. That color and logo are printed/painted on the back of a clear trim piece that I think I can change to something more fitting for the case. Next item on the list, SSD mounting. Plan is to have them hanging from the tray using a screw through the tray for mounting. Deep blue had 3 OCZ SSD's, and I'm adding a 4th, a 480GB from Kingston. I'd use fewer, but I've never won anything bigger than a 480, so a 240 and 3 480's it is. And the mounting holes. Only thing left for the core is figuring out the PSU mounting. For this, I had to drain and disassemble Deep Blue. After this, I figured out one of the problems with my hardware plans... That CM V1200 doesn't really work. And that's a V850 on top of it and it would barely work. So after a mad dash around the house figuring out what all PSU's I had floating around I realized that out of the ones with the headroom I wanted, this V850 that was from the first mod I did was the smallest. It was also the oldest and most heavily modified, so I bit the bullet and ordered a Silverstone SFX-L 700. It gains me about an inch with is smaller size, plus another 1/2" because I can mount it from the other side of the tray and don't have to use any sort of brackets. The other hardware problem I ran into was not being able to find the box, and therefore the 2011 mounting hardware, for the CPU cooler I wanted to transfer to this build. Needless to say, I've got another one of those on the way too. Luckily they don't have to ship it from Japan this time. Since I'm kind of spinning my wheels until my parts arrive, I decided to do a bit of cleanup on the tray, rounding corners and edges to give it more of a finished look. And speaking of finishes, I'm thinking of a sandblasted finish, you don't see that too much and I've brushed about every other piece of aluminum I've worked with. Maybe it's time to switch it up. Until next time!
  40. 1 point
    Hey there. Might as well post some pretty renders of part 2 of the "seriously, haven't you fixed or discarded the DDC yet" saga. With the pump assembly perfectly in place, it now transpires that I can't make the tube routing from pump to radiator through the floor to work without a stupid, ugly amount of adapters, and it's too tight for soft tube too and just kinks. So as suspected it's time to return to the custom pump top idea. Completely redesigned this time though. Enjoy the renders ? I've extended the body width by 19mm to cover the distance between the pump body and the radiator holes in the case floor, so now an EK 90 degree rotary fitting will align directly above the radiator port's centre line, with sufficient vertical space to get a compression fitting on and angle some tube. That extension means I've gone down a distro plate approach to go from the volute outlet to the port, which has of course necessitated o-rings and a sealing plate. And yes, the strong resemblance to Aquacomputer's DDC top is intentional; wanting to keep the look, I've drawn on many design cues from their dual DDC top to create mine as a homage to the top I've had to discard. I don't think I can get in trouble for that ? To allow for measuring and manufacturing tolerances I will be using Mayhem's ultra clear soft tube for this part of the loop, but it's very clear for soft tube, 13mm OD is indistinguishable from 12mm OD acrylic when piped in, and once I have Oil Black Pastel coolant running you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference between the soft and hard tubes I think. And I'm also very excited to say I'm discussing manufacturing of this right now. CAD models are being verified as I type ?
  41. 1 point
    And now the fun stuff, making the mold. I'm starting off with a few layers of gelcoat. Gelcoat is a polyester resin, like the resins for fiberglass, used for the outer coat. It's durable, finishes up nice, and works great with fiberglass resins since it has a lot of the same properties, like not curing in air, allowing follow up applications of gelcoat or fiberglass to bond chemically with the previous layer. If you've got a fiberglass reinforced tub in your house, gelcoat is most likely what your seeing, backed by layers of fiberglass. In fact, a lot of tubs are made very similarly to how I'm going to make this mold, by applying a thin layer of gelcoat on a mold and then backing that up with fiberglass. And here's what I'm using, plain white gelcoat but I'm gonna dye it blue. Normally you'd use a tooling gelcoat for a mold, which is harder and more resistant to damage, but I'm not planning on making 100 shells a day so regular gelcoat should work and that's what I have on hand. The dyeing it blue is to help with casting the shell. If I'm casting with gelcoat, I can see thin spots in my coat, but more than likely I'll be using CF or a similar composite and the blue will let me see spots where I might have a gap. I'm going for two layers of gelcoat, about half a pint for each should give me coverage. After brushing it on. You could spray it, but it's not necessary since the finished side depends on the plug and not what the exposed surface looks like. I gave each coat about a half hour to an hour to set up before the next coat. After the gelcoat was down, it was time for the fiberglass backing. This is the resin I'm using, polyester layering resin. It doesn't include a wax so that the outer skin of a coat doesn't set up and the next layer can bond with it. For the first layer, I'm using chopped strand fiberglass. It doesn't have the woven look because this is just strands of fiberglass laid in a sheet and held together with a binder that the polyester resin dissolves. And laying up the first layer. Next layer I did woven fiberglass because I had a roll laying around that wasn't being used up. And a last layer with more chopped strand. There's no real reason to have mixed the layers or what order they are in. Chopped strand takes up a lot of resin and adds bulk and strength quickly whereas woven cloth is thinner and uses less resin. Since I'm looking for bulk and strength, the chopped strand is more what I want. Woven cloth for the whole mold would work fine as well, it would just take a lot more cloth. And with everything all cured up, things got a little meh... I pulled my divider off and realized that I had a lot of void spots and just an all around bad finish. I blame this on not getting all the wax off the divider and the gelcoat being able to pull off while curing. Also, my registration glue dots, not the best. But it's what I've got so lets start by cleaning up the edge. It just so happens that my new job and company is fiberglass and gelcoat repair so this shouldn't be a problem. I started the fix by grinding out all the rough spots. Then after some sanding to make sure the patches had something to bite onto, I layered in some gelcoat, leaving some dips for my registration. And then sanded it out. It's not perfect but I figure any imperfections are just extra registration. And it could be a problem that my patches are only mechanically bonded to the mold instead of chemically bonded, but that should only be a problem while making the second half of the mold, and I've got an idea about that. And last time I said something about a sponsor...check out this beast. I want to thank GeForce Garage for sponsoring a RTX 2080Ti for the build and for being great to work with all around. They're always helping me out if they can and getting me in on cool projects. This will definitely go a long ways towards making this the fastest thing at a LAN. Thanks for following along, more to come soon!
  42. 1 point
    Cheapskate

    The Iron Turnip

    @Mosquito -This one was just gummy. Switching it on with new grease was like someone turning a knob from 1 to 10 really slowly. @Bill Owen - I've had to explain a few times when strangers see it. The double-takes are priceless. Think I should post your Exodus vids on Bit's log so they know I wasn't totally idle last year. -and because I'm hyped.
  43. 1 point
    random2k4

    Starwars X-Wing by RandomDesign

    pah! just a bit of compressed air and we are ready to go again ? Next, I built the cockpit, that will be openable at the end. And one pic with the mobo in place. Then also the body got some layers of spray filler. Now that all small imperfections are visible, I started to apply body filler to those areas.
  44. 1 point
    Thank guys Today i update my project. Hope you like it Some pics after painting . It is not perfect but ok. Testing psu cover with led light . Making the rear fan.
  45. 1 point
    Well, it's about that time, just one more thing before all the shiny goodness. You might have noticed that I never covered installing a power or reset button. That's probably because I didn't install one. I couldn't find a place where it fit in or where it wouldn't detract from the clean interior. So instead I created a power dongle, I guess you could call it. I took a small reset switch from another case, prettied it up with some heatshrink, and ran it out the cable management pass through in the bottom of the case. Not the most elegant solution, but it does provide a nice hidden switch without cluttering up either the inside or outside of the case. I totally forgot to grab any pics of making it up, but I mention it because it does show up in some of the final shots. Alrighty, time for final pics! And now, let's flip it on it's side. And now details. Thanks for following along! And once again, thanks to my sponsors:
  46. 1 point
    Since I've got a whole lot of water cooling stuff installed, it'd probably be a good idea to run some lines. I'm using Bitspower's 12mm OD PETG with their deluxe white fittings. Since I kind of screwed my self space-wise, trying to keep the case compact, I had to get imaginative with some of the loop. There wasn't enough space for fittings between the GPU and the window so all my runs had to stay between the GPU and the mb. Other than the tight confines around the GPU, most of the line was straightforward. The last two lines I can't do until I get all this in the shell with the radiator. So I guess it's time to mate things up. I want some lighting to brighten things up so I went with some Darkside white LED strips. I mounted them in the top of the shell to give some top down lighting for the components. I ditched the foam tape that was on them since it never stays stuck for long and went with Scotch clear mounting tape. It always does the trick even though it's a pain to cut and get the backing off of. After finishing the last two lines to the radiator, it was time to fill it it up with some Mayhems Blitz to clean the loop and check for leaks. Once that was flushed out, I filled it with Mayhems Pastel white to stay with the black and white theme. And now she's ready for her glamour shots! Again, thanks to my sponsors:
  47. 1 point
    And now for some paint. Although I really loved the naked aluminum look, I decided that I wanted to bring the design on the motherboard to the outside of the case and go with it's black and white color scheme. To do this I laid down a black base and covered that with 6 coats of clear, sanding after the third coat and the last coat to get everything as smooth as possible before polishing. I'm sure of one thing now...I hate black. Every speck of dust and every slight scratch glares at you. But it does look killer when it's polished up. As you can tell, while I was polishing the hell out of this thing, I was also knocking out my wiring, sleeving all my cables in white paracord. The joy of routing wires through individual holes... But totally worth it when it's done. Once again, thanks to my sponsors!
  48. 1 point
    And now the shell. The idea was a single shell piece that attached to a base panel and it needed to be pretty rigid so I went with some more 2mm 5052 aluminum. But before I could start bending everything into shape, I had to get my grill patterns cut out on the CNC. That or cut out a bunch of little hexagons with a dremel....yeah, CNC. After getting my panels cut to their overall size, I strapped it down and let the Dewalt go to work. And ta-da! That's the bottom panel that will hold the radiator. I came up with a hex pattern that matched the hole spacing on the rad so that the pattern wouldn't have to be manipulated around the screw pattern. The holes line up with the tips of what would be the next hex in the pattern. It's a little restrictive, but looks clean. Next, I laid out the bends and my end panels in order to figure a cable pass-through. The design has all the components sitting well inside the ends so an I/O panel is not much of an option. A nice side effect is a clean back panel, the downside is figuring out what to do with the cabling. Through the bottom panel it is. Then I worked a little magic on the brake. Well, not magic, but I did bend the panel to my will! Muahahahahahahaha! I'll never get tired of that. And one bottom panel. With the rad and fans mounted up. Then there was the shell. Same basic principle. CNC the grills, lay it out and stick it on the brake. I didn't cut my windows out beforehand for a few reasons: 1) I don't trust myself at all, 2) Aluminum stretches a bit when it bends, maybe a 1/16 to an 1/8" on the bends I'm doing, and that might throw things off, and 3) I didn't want to remove that much of the panel and make a weak spot that might get tweaked. This turned out to be a great idea since one of the sections was too narrow for my brake and I had to get a little creative with things. Even though I had to fight it a bit, it turned out perfect. And in the vertical orientation. I like this look. Sponsored by:
  49. 1 point
    Next up I laid out my components on the back side of the mb tray. Nothing really exciting, just marking out mounting holes. Res at the top, pump bottom front, and PSU bottom back. And of course directions of the tray labeled so I didn't make a huge mistake. With that done, I could start getting everything ready to check out the fit. Installing the CPU and block. And while I'm at it, the M.2 Drive and RAM. I've got something special in mind for that M.2 but I'll save that for later. Then I had to mount up the Bitspower backplate to my GPU brackets. Laying it out. And putting it together. I wound up switching to flat head screws and countersinking them for a little extra clearance and peace of mind. And mb and GPU side of the tray ready to go. I hate to say it, but the other side of the tray was really boring. Just mounting parts. So boring, in fact, that I forgot to take pictures of it. But there was a little something special that had to be done before moving to the shell. Off to the CNC! Wire management is going to be a pain because there's just no space to hide wires. I always manage to shortchange myself that way. The solution this time, route the wires through the tray and under the motherboard. Here I'm using the CNC to knock out some 4mm holes with a bit more precision than I could pull off by hand. Sponsored by:
  50. 1 point
    First up on my list of things to do was a motherboard tray. Since pretty much everything goes on it and that determines the final width of everything, it's a little important. I cut out a piece of 5052 Al, leaving some space at the top for tabs, but sticking to the mb dimensions otherwise. To save some space I'm mounting the GPU vertically which requires a riser. This is a very nice one from Li-Heat. Lining up the Lightning and figuring out my measurements. I made three aluminum brackets that will use the motherboard mounts to hold the GPU. Seemed like the simplest plan. With that headed in generally the right direction, I decided to work on the flip side and get the PSU mounted up. A nice little feature on the Silverstone SFX are some extra mounting points. So it was just a matter of figuring out the final location and drilling a few holes to get it mounted up. Thanks to:
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