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Porknz last won the day on May 9 2017

Porknz had the most liked content!

About Porknz

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    lower branch munkey
  • Birthday 04/27/1980

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    Hudson, WI

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  1. Damn. It's been three years and I'm on here still looking for this old post as I get ready to drain and flush the loop again, still without a drain port. Still fans of this particular valve? Anything you are now bigger fans of? Still rolling with my EKWB L360. Thanks.
  2. I'm not seeing temp changes in other games, so I think Battlefield is just pushing it harder than the rest. If I add another rad and have 6x120 what would be my sign that the one pump isn't enough? Is there some way to see if the flow slows down too much etc.? Thanks.
  3. Maybe this is a dumb question. Can I just add another three fan rad to loop?
  4. My EK L360 has always held temps in check for my 1080ti and my 6700k, but I'm noticing with Battlefield V it's creeping from the normal upper 50's into the 70's now on my cpu. I'm thinking it's time to add more than the three fan rad setup. I initially figured I'd just purchase another matching EK L360, but I figured I'd ask here whether that seems like a good idea or not? Would that make too big a loop? Should I run a separate loop for the cpu and gpu? Is it more common to have all matching parts (two of the same kits) or is it okay to have mismatched cooling parts (if I go with two separate loops)? Is there any advantage to building a custom loop over a kit now that I've used my first kit and kind of have the just of it? Thanks guys!
  5. I've wanted to make a custom case for years and just haven't gotten the right idea. I'm thinking that trying to make one of these pc's inside of a functioning table might be useful and fun and I'm wondering if anyone has resources to get me started. Favorite examples, warnings before I start planning, problems you ran into if you've tried making one before etc. Thanks!
  6. I am thinking I waited too long to flush it rather than temps. First loop is full of learning 'opportunities'.
  7. Something like this right on the reservoir? https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-af-y-splitter-rotary-2f-1m-g1-4-nickel Can I run a short line from the reservoir to this first to take a tight turn out of my tubing? What do I put on the drain port to seal it until flushing? Thanks.
  8. Noticed tonight that my loop looks like it might be starting to get cloudy or fuzzy. I'm going to try to remember how to flush it a few times. Unplug everything, find an adapter for my old psu and plug the pump into that. 1. Anything I can add to the flushes to help clean it out? 2. I don't have a drain in the loop, which complicates things. What can I purchase to put into one of my runs to make for any easy drain? Thanks.
  9. Added the new GPU to the loop. Leak testing and figuring out how I am going to get a display port cable under there before the lan tomorrow. Crossing my fingers.
  10. Any advice on what to do to sort of okay my loop with just the cpu before adding a gpu? Stress test software? Temps? Scores? I kind of want to make sure everything is good before adding the gpu so that if there is an issue with temps etc. after the gpu, I can at least know that I was good before adding it and that the gpu is the issue if there is one. Thanks for any help.
  11. Okay. I think I might have it running again! But I'm not sure why. So I was almost convinced I needed to get a new 960 evo because it wasn't booting after the bios screen that pops up at power on. I went into bios and looked around and didn't see anything to work on. I closed bios and let it restart. When I restarted, I hit F11 for the boot menu I think it was called, and it popped right up and seems to be running great. I've never had to hit F11 before and I'm not sure what it has to do with getting my build to work. Any ideas on what that's all about? Otherwise, I don't think I've nuked anything with the leak. Updating steam right now and a little afraid to restart as I'm worried it won't work again.
  12. So, same as I left it about six weeks ago. Water loop is working again without all of the cracks in the block. . Lights up and runs fine. I'm currently in bios, so it would appear the motherboard and cpu and fans etc are running fine. I'm guessing I nuked the old gpu, the only part I hadn't replaced yet. It could also be the boot drive I suppose. After bios (if I don't enter it) I just get the same screen with a white box across the monitor and three dots above it. Other than taking my loop back out and replacing the card, is there any other way to try to diagnose what still isn't working? Thanks.
  13. Leak testing and so far so good. Only leak was from the cracked block before, so all of the tubing and fittings are the same. Probably won't run a full length test like I did originally because of this. Wondering though, when I try to boot back up, maybe everything will work just fine. A guy can hope right??? But if it doesn't, any advice on how to start figuring out if it's the motherboard, or boot drive, or gpu? Or something else? Hoping it dried out and still works! #steamsale Thanks guys.
  14. Okay, school year done. Steam sale on. I need to try to get this rig back up and running! Just put the new block on and if anyone is out there, I'm obviously wondering how to know if I have the block down tight enough as I'm hesitant to over tighten and worried I won't tighten enough. Any advice? Thanks.
  15. Went with the acrylic and nickel Evo. Should be a little upgrade. Don't know if this is a dumb question, but it sounds like and looks like the mounting kit might be universal. Can I keep the plate that is already mounted through the motherboard on and just replace the block?
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