Jump to content

James R.

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


James R. last won the day on June 10 2015

James R. had the most liked content!

About James R.

  • Rank
  • Birthday 04/21/1987

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  1. Obvious first question: when will the Zen processors launch? Secondly: can we expect a new Fury card this year?
  2. On an extreme budget like this, I usually recommend an apu. http://pcpartpicker.com/list/WLTZf8 MOTHERBOARD: ASRock A68M-ITX Mini ITX FM2+ CPU: AMD A10-7860k CPU COOLER: Cooler Master Hyper T2 SSD: A-Data Premier SP550 240GB DDR: PNY Anarchy 8GB PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 750W 80+ Bronze (overkill, but Can accommodate a gpu later) CASE: Fractal Design Core 1000 This should be very capable of light gaming (low-medium settings) and offer a nice performance gain later by adding say a Sapphire Radeon R7 360 2GB NITRO for about another $100.
  3. Thanks Bill. Great video find too. I've always had a certain fascination with the Borg. I had never thought much of their history though.
  4. Resident Evil - Dual res based on the T virus case. Inception - Various ideas that are probably impossible. Alias (TV show) - Probably based off one of the Milo Rambaldi designs.
  5. Is that your subtle way of saying that I should water cool it instead?
  6. "We are the modders." "You will be assimilated." "Your physical uniqueness will be adapted to our will." "Resistance is futile." So, this project had a bit of a weird moment for me. It was the first time I had done any sort of computer build where my focus (and budget) had focused so heavily on looks rather than power. Admittedly that isn't hard when you work with a Raspberry Pi but, still it felt a bit foreign. The "case" for this project is a Borg Cube from the Star Trek Attack Wing game. I originally considered putting an itx board in this instead but, eventually I decided against it. The first step was disassembly. The cube is made of six separate pieces. The trick was to find one of the two that had the pegs holding it in place rather than just glue. This was to keep the pins intact both for strength on the other end and easily "locking" the top back in place when I'm not plugging in cables or something. Even with the pins, the edges were still glued enough to not separate on their own. I used a thin bladed knife to slowly split the edges apart and cut the glue line. Upon doing some test re-assemblies, I did come to see how tight the pigs fit into their respective holes. To remedy this I used three or four drill bits to slowly expand the peg holes to make removing and replacing the lid simpler. Even with reasonable caution taken, I guessed wrong on the first panel I tried. So, in order to reinforce the internal corners, I taped the outside of the cube to hold the corners in place. I then applied a thick coat of clear silicone adhesive to the eight interior edges of the cube. Upon drying, the cube appeared to be more rigid than it was originally. The panels were actually dual layered. The more visible layer actually has holes that allow you to see the solid translucent green layer below. I left most of the green layers in place for effect but, I did remove that layer from the bottom. Removing that layer made work a little easier and allows some air flow. While I know that plastic shouldn't conduct electricity and a Raspberry Pi shouldn't get warm enough to hurt the plastic, I still wanted some standoffs to mount my board. I ended up using some small rubber grommets i found at a local hardware store. They have the added benefit of having some give so that over-tightening my screws would show before the board would be damaged. One unexpected turn was when I salvaged a small cigarette display from work and found it had several small led strips as well as the 12v power adapter. This allowed my to very easily add lighting and a fan to the build. The power plug and fan were simply mounted with double sided tape. The only problem I had with this set up was the fan. I had to snip the lead wires going to its own led bulbs because the blue was bleeding through. The last issue was cable routing. The plastic on the cube is not exactly top quality so, using a grinding wheel on a Dremel was the simplest solution for making cable slots. First the hole in the bottom to allow controller cables to easily attach. Secondly was the slot for the 12v power, hdmi, and usb power. All of which routes neatly and can be stored inside when not in use. So with all of that finally done, now its time to sit back and fire up some old Nintendo classics.
  7. I am considering sleeving the cables on my fully modular power supply. Would it be better to buy all new wire for my runs or simply disassemble my current power cables?
  8. Many of us are gamers, and those of us who are can very easily name off games that have impacted is in some way. From the joy of playing Super Mario Brothers for the first time, to the excitement of downing a new WoW raid with your guild, and the sobering discomfort of games like Spec Ops: the Line. There have been a lot of games I remember over the years but, the best of the bunch has been the Mass Effect series. Rarely do I see a game that sucks me in so deep that I want to replay it as soon as the credits finish. So it seemed like the perfect theme to use to freshen up the look on my current rig. The subject of this mod is my Thermaltake Core V71. I'll be really honest here, it isn't the greatest case I have ever used. If I had known a year ago when I bought this how much better of a case I could have gotten for a bit more money I would have. However, part of the fun of modding is making what you have accommodate what you want. So I opted to continue on rather than ordering a new case. I will say however, this case is nice for drive space and cable routing. When I build my next system I will likely leave this one intact, minus the water cooling, and turn it into a home server. As for the to-do list, it's nothing too crazy. Plasti Dip the outer chasis. Create a badge for the front of the case. Etch a design on the window. Install a water cooling loop with a 360 mm radiator. Shroud the power supply. Step one: disassemble the case. Unfortunately that means discovering how dirty your computer really is. Probably should have finished dusting before I took that picture... The window on this case bothers me a little because it scratches pretty easily. I still haven't thought of a good way to change it since it is held in with metal tabs that fit through slots in the plastic. Similarly, the metal mesh on the top and front can be simply removed by unfolding a few tabs that stick through the plastic. I must at this point give a shout out to Bill Owen. I first found out about Plasti Dip from his YouTube videos, and I LOVE IT. I have discovered that I am very impatient with painting. Normal rattle cans tend to make me frustrated but, this stuff is super forgiving. Honestly, the best surprise I got from Plasti Dip was the easy cleanup. Yup, all the over spray dried before it hit the floor. A few seconds with a broom and the evidence is gone. :)
  9. Alright. Thank you for the clarification.
  10. I have just purchased the parts for my first cooling loop and would like a little clarification. I have looked at quite a few cooling guides that mention using additives in your loop to prevent algae or corrosion. I am wondering if Mayhems dyes contain such additives already or if I need to order some separately? Apologies if the answer to this is some where obvious already. I have done some looking around and can not find a solid answer on the subject.
  11. Very nice. Didn't notice that it didn't have a power cord going to the card.
  12. Very nice build. Frankly I'm a little surprised that it works though. I would have expected the 750 alone to max out that psu. Any idea how much of that 250 watts you actually use under load?
  13. Sweet. Can't wait to see what you do with it.
  • Create New...