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InsolentGnome

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InsolentGnome last won the day on February 10

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About InsolentGnome

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    Just Plain Crazy
  • Birthday 08/05/1976

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    http://www.insolentmods.com

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    Missouri-USA

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  1. InsolentGnome

    Fusion-[scratch build] Feb 21, 2019

    Alright, now's when things get interesting...well for me at least. Bringing all of this together is a bit complicated since a lot of parts depend on other parts for their layout. So there's a lot of make this to make that and then going back to see if the original part actually worked. I'm gonna start with a couple of pieces of plywood about an inch bigger all around than my tray. I say about because there's about a 1/4" extra on the front overhang. Not for any particular, just figured 12" was easier to work with than 11.75. I don't remember the particulars about the plywood, it's in the 3/4" range, decent grading. I'm gonna go with the more bland grain on the outside because there's a gap in the ply that wouldn't work with my plan to route the edges if I flipped the boards the other way. I'm gonna start with laying out from the bottom and work my way up since I don't have my cooler yet and that is definitely going to affect the top board. So I laid out the dimensions of my tray and marked out the leg locations and the PSU fan location. The PSU fan hole is pretty straightforward. For the legs, I had been thinking of running them through the board and using them as feet as well. I like the look, but I think I'm going to have to epoxy the CF bends to the boards which means I have no way of getting the hardware in or out if the legs run through the bottom or are glued. To keep the look but leave myself the ability to work on it later and even assemble it, I split the legs. For the tray mounting part, they just screw in from either side through the tray and the bottom board. To give myself feet, I counter sunk the screw locations large enough for the dowel to push in. Next up figure an approximate leg length. I can always re-cut these if I need to adjust later. Then cut some feet and drive them in the holes I made for them. I think the feet are a little tall, but I'll wait til final assembly to work out the exact height I want it. Sort of depends on how the case as a whole sits. With that out of the way, I decided to go ahead and get the aluminum finishing out of the way. I wanted to try a sandblasted finish. You don't really see it around and I'm not looking for something real flashy so it was worth a try. I can't say I'm totally in love with the dull gray since I'm a glossy clearcoat kind of guy, but I like the texture and up close it's an interesting look, so we'll see how it works with all the other material finishes. Last but not least, a piece of snowy sewer pipe that I have plans for. What are those plans, check back next time! Muahahahahahaa! Thanks for following along!
  2. InsolentGnome

    Fusion-[scratch build] Feb 21, 2019

    So this should be a shorter update since I'm not cramming a thousand things in. First off, my Silverstone SX700-LPT came in. 700 watts, platinum rating, and it's a wee little baby. It's smaller than the fans in my V1200 and V850. They're 135mm's and this thing is 130mm long. I'm thinking this and it's 800w sibling might be my go to models from now on. Expensive, but the options this opens up in designs. Enough fawning for now. On my other Silverstone SFX, the screws that mount the PSU's board to the outer body didn't go all the way through the inserts, allowing me to use them as extra mounting locations. This one, not so much. So lets pull apart a brand new PSU, why not? I traded out 3 of the four mounting screws for longer ones, giving me studs on the bottom of the PSU. The 4th one sat under the switch and plug and I didn't feel like fighting to swap it out. Couple of M3 nuts on the back side and voila! With that mounted, I could cut in some wire pass throughs to route the wiring under the motherboard. The more I look at this tray, the more I'm thinking I need to copy the layout to a CNC program. It's starting to look like a good starting layout for a mini-tower build and having that 301 front panel layout would really be handy. With an mITX board, slip the PSU under where the GPU is now, and put the GPU back in it's standard location, this would be a tight little build. The last thing I need to do before I finish this panel is work out how I'm gonna mount it in the case. I want it to sort of float in between my wood panels. I decided to give it 3 legs. Not so many that I couldn't hide them and not so few that I had to worry about balance and strength problems. I just cut some dowel for now so that once I get the panel finished I can piece some of it together and start working on the wiring. But I figure I've got some decent options as I go forward. Right now, I'm seeing the dowels finished in a lighter, contrasting color to the rest of the wood in the build and having them go through the bottom wood panel and acting as feet for the case when it sits like a desktop. I think that might give it a sort of handcrafted furniture feel. That's it for now, but thanks for following along!
  3. InsolentGnome

    Fusion-[scratch build] Feb 21, 2019

    After getting the tray laid out and made, I decided that there was a nice spot for some switches...if I had incorporated a spot for the switches. So let's remake the panel! It's not a bug in my process, it's a feature. First off I want to get the channel laid out so that I don't screw myself somewhere else. First bend. I spent an afternoon looking for cool switches but nothing really stood out to me except for making a capacitive panel. Unfortunately, since the panel I would have to use for that is the entire MB tray, that seemed like a bad idea. But then I remembered I had a few front I/O panels from other cases I've completely torn apart and started going through my stash. First one I found was from an IN WIN 301 and except for the power and reset button, it was pretty much cut some holes and it slots right in. Perfect. Since the power and reset buttons are a separate piece and operate switches on the board of the I/O I had to figure something out. It has a mounting bracket in the 301 that holds the buttons and the I/O panel, but that would add to much width to the whole setup, so I went for a work around. I used some cyanoacrylate adhesive to glue the buttons to the I/O and the switches they actuate and cut the extra bracket off. Yeah, I just superglued it, but CA just sounds so much more professional. Then I measured the I/O for my next bend for the channel. Another bend and that's gonna work out nice. After that I went through all the other layout and cutting that I had done before, except this time, bending the GPU bracket in the right order. Now I had to cut out the holes for the I/O and get it mounted. Started with a template from a 301 I swear I'm gonna finish some time. Transferred that to my tray. And with a lot of drilling, grinding, and filing, I finally got it to fit. To mount it, I had thought about epoxy, but then I wouldn't be able to ever take it out and that seemed like a bad idea. Next idea was some screws behind it to basically keep it from falling out, but I wasn't too keen on that either. Decided to make some brackets that would pull it tight to the aluminum, even though that required some screws showing. Not my fave, but I can live with it. Trimmed some of the extra plastic of the trim plate for this one. And Bob's your uncle. Now I'm not renaming the project NIM NI though that is tempting. That color and logo are printed/painted on the back of a clear trim piece that I think I can change to something more fitting for the case. Next item on the list, SSD mounting. Plan is to have them hanging from the tray using a screw through the tray for mounting. Deep blue had 3 OCZ SSD's, and I'm adding a 4th, a 480GB from Kingston. I'd use fewer, but I've never won anything bigger than a 480, so a 240 and 3 480's it is. And the mounting holes. Only thing left for the core is figuring out the PSU mounting. For this, I had to drain and disassemble Deep Blue. After this, I figured out one of the problems with my hardware plans... That CM V1200 doesn't really work. And that's a V850 on top of it and it would barely work. So after a mad dash around the house figuring out what all PSU's I had floating around I realized that out of the ones with the headroom I wanted, this V850 that was from the first mod I did was the smallest. It was also the oldest and most heavily modified, so I bit the bullet and ordered a Silverstone SFX-L 700. It gains me about an inch with is smaller size, plus another 1/2" because I can mount it from the other side of the tray and don't have to use any sort of brackets. The other hardware problem I ran into was not being able to find the box, and therefore the 2011 mounting hardware, for the CPU cooler I wanted to transfer to this build. Needless to say, I've got another one of those on the way too. Luckily they don't have to ship it from Japan this time. Since I'm kind of spinning my wheels until my parts arrive, I decided to do a bit of cleanup on the tray, rounding corners and edges to give it more of a finished look. And speaking of finishes, I'm thinking of a sandblasted finish, you don't see that too much and I've brushed about every other piece of aluminum I've worked with. Maybe it's time to switch it up. Until next time!
  4. InsolentGnome

    Fusion-[scratch build] Feb 21, 2019

    fu·sion Dictionary result for fusion /ˈfyo͞oZHən/ noun noun: fusion; plural noun: fusions 1. the process or result of joining two or more things together to form a single entity. "a fusion of an idea from anthropology and an idea from psychology" synonyms: blend, blending, combination, amalgamation, joining, bonding, binding, merging, melding, mingling, integration, intermixture, intermingling, synthesis It's time for a new personal build for me. I know I just finished up my H-Frame inspired Deep Blue, but it's just not doing it for me. Don't get me wrong, I really do like the case, but not enough for it to have a spot on my desk as a daily driver. Whenever I look at it things just stand out that bug me either in the design or the fabrication. I've gotten to the point that I have a mental checklist of things that bother me. Size - It's fooking huuuuge. I like big cases with room for things to have their own space, but this thing is a big case plus a 1.5-2" border all the way around. It's too much. Water Cooling - The bends aren't bad, but they aren't perfect and I know it and that bothers me. And if I did it again, I'd probably go stainless. And, though I like the look and the idea of water cooling, and I freaking love the Maelstrom res that Swiftech gave me, it's pointless for me. It's total eye candy. I barely overclock the CPU and don't touch the GPU, so I wind up with more maintenance, risk of catastrophic failure, and PIA upgrades so that the CPU and GPU don't thermal throttle at levels that I rarely run at. Most of my time is spent on the internet or gaming at 1080p 144MHz, I think a 6800K and a 1080Ti can handle that on air. Color - I love the blue dyed curly maple...but...on my desk where there isn't crazy amounts of light, it's just blue. No grain, no shimmer. Just blue. If I had large flat areas where it could catch the light, it would look gorgeous, but it doesn't and that's a shame. Overall Look - This is a cool case at a LAN where you can take it all in, but with my desk setup and the way the acrylic panels are held on, it reminds me of the TT wall mount computers and that just aint right. It bothers the eff out of me to be honest. With the meh look and the meh string of 100's of P whatever TF mods which were only distinguished by what color and how many curly q's were in the hardline, I'm not down with that comparison in my head. Something has to change. On top of that, there are way too many straight lines. It feels sharp and angular and I don't want that next to me all the time. So, I like it, but I don't love it, and I want a computer that I love to look at on my desk. Starting with these issues with Deep Blue, I began a design, smaller, air cooled, no finned panels, and some curves to soften it all up. But I also wanted to incorporate some different materials. Two of these materials are part of what give Fusion it's name, they're composites, carbon fiber and plain old, generic plywood. The rest of Fusions name comes from fusing these two very similar yet very different materials together with some aluminum to create a single case. Now that I've given you a glimpse of my artsy, poetic side, it's time to get to bashing some metal into shape. I'm gonna start with some aluminum, some very fried components, and a hammer. In the aluminum department, I'm going with .08" or 2mm 5052 alloy. Strong but it allows me to puts some bends in where I want them. The fried components are a poor TUF X299 board and GTX1080Ti that suffered catastrophic failure due to water cooling. Stuff got wet, stuff died. Thank god it wasn't mine. They're stand-ins for my actual working hardware for the time being. The hammer, well it's just a hammer. The design is based on attaching everything to a single aluminum panel the size of an ATX board. Since I've done this before for my Twelve 80 build, I knew where I was heading, though I wanted to add a new touch along the way to make upgrading easier. Topside layout. You might notice the aluminum bracket there. In Twelve 80, I used two of these, which attach at the standoff locations, to hold the graphics card. Although it works, it is a bit problematic mounting the GPU to brackets using the backplate, and swapping GPU's means you get to do it all over again. My new plan of attack is to use the bracket as a stand to keep the GPU from sagging but not to actually attach the GPU to it. I'm going to bend up a bracket in the back to actually hold the GPU. All laid out. And cut out Before I started bending, I went ahead and drilled and tapped my standoff locations so I wouldn't have any drill clearance issues next to the GPU bracket. And now the hammer comes into play. Using the vice as a brake to bend out the tab for the GPU mount. Now I don't know if you noticed the problem that I was about to have, but I sure didn't at the time. Turns out the space between that bend and the next bend for the bracket was too tight for my brake and also wouldn't fit in the vice. The solution was to mount the piece in the brake upside down and backwards and use a hammer to bend the Al against the brake bed. It wasn't pretty. I'll spare you the carnage. But what came out wasn't bad, just had a few dozen extra hammer dings in it and a bit of a weird wave that I'll need to straighten out. Or not, but I'll get into that in a bit. And then mounting the hardware. With a short riser cable, this is a tight and tidy setup and there is still some rounding of corners to smooth up the design. The CPU cooler should work with this since the edge of the card is lined up with the top PCI bracket. Now all that's left of the heart of the build is to mount the rest of the hardware on the bottom of the panel. Or is it... Don't you hate it when you get a panel designed...and laid out...and cut out...and bent...and the hardware installed...and suddenly into your head pops this voice saying, "Hey, you know what would have been cool is to add a couple of bends to the other side of the panel to mount your switches into. You know, since you've been wondering how you were going to work them out." So yeah, I'm planning on remaking the panel incorporating something like a C-channel or maybe just a tab on what would be the right edge of the panel in the pic below. Luckily, I've got a template, that I know works, drawn up that I can pull all the measurements off of, and maybe this time I can bend things in the proper order and not have to pull out the Hammer of DOOOOM!!! to make things work. But that's for next update, until then I'm gonna be looking for some cool switches and stuff I can mount to offset the extra work I'm making for myself. Until next time! Thanks for following along!
  5. InsolentGnome

    LANpak - Scratch Build(Feb 14, 2019)

    Continuing with the mold making, after getting my edge sorted out, it was more wax in case I rubbed through a spot somewhere and since the flange had never been waxed. To be honest, I tried to pull the first side off so it would be easier to fix and that was a non-starter, so I wanted to make sure this side was at least easier to pull off. Not only did I use the mold release wax, but I put on a coat of PVA wax as well. This will dry to a thin film and washes up with water. Should make everything come apart easy. And then it was the same as last time, couple layers of gelcoat followed by fiberglass. Once I had that all laid up, before popping anything apart, I drilled my holes for the bolts to hold the mold together. I'm kinda guessing on the bolts so I went overkill. Just a few 5/16" bolts. Then it was time to see how all this came out. The second side, the one with the PVA came off pretty easy with a little wedge application between the flanges. It's almost perfect, though it does have a few imperfections I'll have to fix. The first side...well... It didn't seem to want to let go. Obviously the PVA was a very good idea on the other side. The gelcoat managed to grab on and pop some of the filler and epoxy off with it. It took 3/4 of a box of paint stir sticks to wedge in to get it to finally let go. So lesson learned, just waxing isn't enough especially if the plug isn't polished to a mirror finish. Luckily a lot of the filler comes off with a razor blade. It's stuck, but it's not STUCK. So after a lot of razor blade on mold action and some sanding, I got the side cleaned up. It's got a 120 grit sanding on it, which will have to get a lot finer, but first I need to fix any imperfections. So bring on the dremel to grind out any voids and then I'll patch it back with some gelcoat and sand it nice and slick. Once again, thanks to GeForce Garage for sponsoring this madness! Thanks for following along and I'll see you next time!
  6. InsolentGnome

    LANpak - Scratch Build(Feb 14, 2019)

    And now the fun stuff, making the mold. I'm starting off with a few layers of gelcoat. Gelcoat is a polyester resin, like the resins for fiberglass, used for the outer coat. It's durable, finishes up nice, and works great with fiberglass resins since it has a lot of the same properties, like not curing in air, allowing follow up applications of gelcoat or fiberglass to bond chemically with the previous layer. If you've got a fiberglass reinforced tub in your house, gelcoat is most likely what your seeing, backed by layers of fiberglass. In fact, a lot of tubs are made very similarly to how I'm going to make this mold, by applying a thin layer of gelcoat on a mold and then backing that up with fiberglass. And here's what I'm using, plain white gelcoat but I'm gonna dye it blue. Normally you'd use a tooling gelcoat for a mold, which is harder and more resistant to damage, but I'm not planning on making 100 shells a day so regular gelcoat should work and that's what I have on hand. The dyeing it blue is to help with casting the shell. If I'm casting with gelcoat, I can see thin spots in my coat, but more than likely I'll be using CF or a similar composite and the blue will let me see spots where I might have a gap. I'm going for two layers of gelcoat, about half a pint for each should give me coverage. After brushing it on. You could spray it, but it's not necessary since the finished side depends on the plug and not what the exposed surface looks like. I gave each coat about a half hour to an hour to set up before the next coat. After the gelcoat was down, it was time for the fiberglass backing. This is the resin I'm using, polyester layering resin. It doesn't include a wax so that the outer skin of a coat doesn't set up and the next layer can bond with it. For the first layer, I'm using chopped strand fiberglass. It doesn't have the woven look because this is just strands of fiberglass laid in a sheet and held together with a binder that the polyester resin dissolves. And laying up the first layer. Next layer I did woven fiberglass because I had a roll laying around that wasn't being used up. And a last layer with more chopped strand. There's no real reason to have mixed the layers or what order they are in. Chopped strand takes up a lot of resin and adds bulk and strength quickly whereas woven cloth is thinner and uses less resin. Since I'm looking for bulk and strength, the chopped strand is more what I want. Woven cloth for the whole mold would work fine as well, it would just take a lot more cloth. And with everything all cured up, things got a little meh... I pulled my divider off and realized that I had a lot of void spots and just an all around bad finish. I blame this on not getting all the wax off the divider and the gelcoat being able to pull off while curing. Also, my registration glue dots, not the best. But it's what I've got so lets start by cleaning up the edge. It just so happens that my new job and company is fiberglass and gelcoat repair so this shouldn't be a problem. I started the fix by grinding out all the rough spots. Then after some sanding to make sure the patches had something to bite onto, I layered in some gelcoat, leaving some dips for my registration. And then sanded it out. It's not perfect but I figure any imperfections are just extra registration. And it could be a problem that my patches are only mechanically bonded to the mold instead of chemically bonded, but that should only be a problem while making the second half of the mold, and I've got an idea about that. And last time I said something about a sponsor...check out this beast. I want to thank GeForce Garage for sponsoring a RTX 2080Ti for the build and for being great to work with all around. They're always helping me out if they can and getting me in on cool projects. This will definitely go a long ways towards making this the fastest thing at a LAN. Thanks for following along, more to come soon!
  7. InsolentGnome

    LANpak - Scratch Build(Feb 14, 2019)

    Wow, almost 2 months since my last update, guess I better get to it since I've got a sponsor signed on, but more on that later. To pick up where I left off, I've got the plug sanded pretty smooth and cleaned off. Now to smooth it up even more with some epoxy primer. This will fill in any small holes and I can use it to find any dips or high spots. Since I'm planning on sanding the feces out of it, I went ahead and just applied it with a brush. And then more sanding. Anyone else starting to see a trend here? After doing another epoxy coat and spot filling the most stubborn spots, I was ready to be done sanding. Now to waxing. Uggghhh. The mold release wax is just for that, filling in all the little pores and letting the mold pop off easier. 3-5 coats (I went for 5), wax on, wax off. After that much waxing, I can give Daniel-san a run for his money. The plug does look slick though. And is slick. It's hard to hold on to that bad boy after 5 coats of wax! Next up, I finally started the molding process..sort of. I need to split the mold otherwise I'd never get what I molded out. My first idea was a 4 part mold with breaks on the sharper corners, since they hide mold marks better and that should make getting the part out afterword very easy. After procrastinating because that seemed very complicated (some of the 2 month delay) I decided to just go with a 2 piece mold, right down the middle. The mold line will show, but I'm pretty sure there's gonna be some cleanup anyways and I can take care of that. Maybe a little more difficult to demold my part, but it's a lot simpler for the first mold I'm making. First up, I need a divider that will give me my flange for the first side of the mold. I'm using corrugated plastic sheeting...or like I described it to the Home Depot guy, plastic cardboard. It's tough, easy to cut and gelcoat doesn't stick to it too bad. So I made a template out of cardboard and used a neat little trick I saw in a YouTube video about mold making. I cut my template big and then used tape to fine tune it. Then transferred that to the corrugated plastic. With a little bit of work, it fit like a glove. To make it stay in place while I'm putting gelcoat and fiberglass on it, I hot glued it to the plug and used stir sticks as braces. Before putting the gelcoat down, I went ahead and waxed the plastic to make it come apart easier and filled any gaps with wax as well, to keep the gelcoat in check. And since I want some registration marks in the mold so that it all lines up like it's supposed to I tried hot glue since I didn't have anything else that really stuck to the plastic very well. It's not perfect, but I can clean it up when I get the other side ready. Next up, gelcoat and fiberglass. Thanks for following along!
  8. InsolentGnome

    The Iron Turnip

    And those plastic drains may be feces, but they last forever. At least some of it does.
  9. InsolentGnome

    LANpak - Scratch Build(Feb 14, 2019)

    I've never been able to do the food thing. Even growing up I could never tell.
  10. InsolentGnome

    The Iron Turnip

    Lurking. I'd just put new drains in. Hate those plastic drains with a passion. 40, damn. Ok, maybe just swap out the rods.
  11. InsolentGnome

    LANpak - Scratch Build(Feb 14, 2019)

    Less static cling though, and I'm usually covered in dust anyways. I hardly notice it anymore. It has to be really strong to bother me.
  12. InsolentGnome

    LANpak - Scratch Build(Feb 14, 2019)

    Now it's time to turn my cardboard creation into a plug. A plug is just the basis for a mold. The process goes like this: make a plug which is the shape that I want my shell to be, then make a mold off of the plug, and then I can layup my composite layers in the mold for my final product. It's a lot of work, but I'll be left with a mold so if I screw something up or want to try something different with the shell I can make another copy. To start, I need to stiffen my cardboard up a bit. For this I'll be using chopped strand fiberglass and polyester resin. The chopped strand is easy to work with and wrap around curves and the polyester is a cheaper resin but will work perfect for this. Well, mostly perfect. I had some Bondo resin laying around it works fine as a resin and it's cheap and available, but it's more of a patch resin. It works well in one coat. The funny thing about polyester resins(and others) that I work with is that they don't cure in air like say a paint. They don't cure by a solvent evaporating, but rather a reaction in the resin and air kills that reaction. Sucks if you're trying to put a finish coat on something, but for laying multiple layers, this is great because each layer bonds with the one before. The way to get layer to fully cure is to coat it with another material. Another layer of resin, some plastic sheeting, or very commonly, a wax. I'm pretty sure the Bondo resin has a wax additive that helps with this last layer curing which doesn't really make it ideal for laminating layers. Long story short, I had to move fast to make sure all the layers bonded to each other. And don't worry, I won't be using bondo in the final shell, it just worked for my plug and I had it. The first thing in layering this up was to fill all my gaps so the strand wasn't bridging across a void. I did this by mixing the resin with a material called Cab-o-sil. It's a super light silica for thickening up resin. Mix that with some resin and you wind up with some goo. I slathered that in all the gaps and tried to keep it as clean as possible. Any random glob will stand out under the glass. Next, get a good base coat of resin to soak into the cardboard and help with the wet out of the glass... But then thought about how fast this stuff cures up and got right to the glass. Tearing this stuff vs. cutting it gives you edges you can feather out better. I'd provide more pictures of the during, but like I said, it was a time crunch. In a cup, the the resin gets hot and cures faster so I had about 20 minutes of pot life to get the glass down and all the air bubbles out before that batch was useless. On the plug, the resin takes anywhere from 30 to 45 minutes to cure so once I got one layer down... It was time for the next. I probably wound up with about 3 layers overall with all the overlap from the pieces of chopped strand. It's pretty tough now and ready to sand. I wanted to get a lot of the stranding out and knock down any high spots. Also to provide a surface with some tooth for the next layer. And cleaned up. Still pretty rough, but that's why they make filler. This is a standard polyester filler that I use in tub repair. Low shrinkage, sands easy, and white with white hardener so it doesn't stand out under thin gelcoat and you have no idea if you've mixed it up well at all. First of a few coats. And after some sanding. It's very important that this plug be as perfect as I can get it. Every little detail on this plug will wind up on the mold, which then transfers directly to the final product. So the better the plug is, the less work I'll have to do cleaning the final shell. After two passes of filler, I've still got a few spots to touch up, and then I'm still not done, but more on that next time! Thanks for following along!
  13. InsolentGnome

    LANpak - Scratch Build(Feb 14, 2019)

    At first I was thinking a smooth muscular look, but this is working for me.
  14. InsolentGnome

    LANpak - Scratch Build(Feb 14, 2019)

    After mulling over my luggage, I decided to go back to the drawing board. I needed to change things up a bit. Number one, the exterior needed to follow the hardware a bit closer, to give it more of a cut up feel and to cut down some size. Number two was to revamp the layout a bit to slim it up. The previous design reminded me too much of a mid tower. Granted it's a system plus peripherals, but I wanted it to look sleek, not like you strapped a case to your back. A bit of time 'researching' on a motorcycle accessory site, and I was ready to give it another go. First up, the layout. To thin the design up a bit, I decided to tilt the radiators and instead of mounting them at the bottom of a well, I'd mount them directly to the side of the case and figure out some waterproof covers for transport. I also ditched the res and pump for now. I'll add them back in later, but I'll either find a spot for a off the shelf unit or make something custom. I just don't want my design dictated by the res/pump. Then I worked my design around the shape of the hardware. Leaving a bit of play room but following the contours and going with a very angled design. Rather than try to hand sculpt it, or sit down and figure out all the measurements for each facet, I threw the design in Pepakura and let it make templates for me. And then it was cut out paper, transfer it to cardboard, and assembly. On all the pieces for the sides I added 2" extra. I'm going to use this as a plug for a fiberglass mold and that two inches gives me an edge that I can just cut off later. Also, I'm not sure how much room I'll need for figuring in a monitor, so I've got some room to play with. Mmmm...puzzles. Assembly was with hot glue. I threw in some braces to help keep things squared up and a little stronger till I get this glassed up. Assembly was pretty simple since I usually had 2 edges to give me my angles and attach too. And done. I really like the shape better and it's not huge. Currently bout as deep as a decent laptop backpack and runs from my shoulders to my belt. It's a little wide as I clip my arms on it moving them around, but it is a computer shoved in a backpack so... Next up is playing with some polyester resin to start turning this into a plug. Thanks for following along!
  15. InsolentGnome

    LANpak - Scratch Build(Feb 14, 2019)

    Yeah, the two things I've done recently in my shop. It's like I want it to never be clean again.
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