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random2k4 last won the day on October 29 2019

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About random2k4

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    lower branch munkey

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  1. Monitor can be plugged in directly in the back of the GPU, I only cover some but not all connections. I installed 90° connectors on the usb of the mobo, Also I have a small dongle for a wireless keyboard/mouse combo. Its more then enough. But honestly, who would try to use this as a desktop replacement Power cord for the PSU is hidden behind the metal pole. I tied it down with zip ties to make it almost not visible, rest is the magic of photoshop ?
  2. And some final pictures: We also made a video, showing the making-of in more detail: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rXVfz0cU5pw
  3. Next, the panels for the cockpit were put into place. I added two more switches to the mid section. One is starting the water pump and the other switches the temperature sensor on and off. It was already visible in the upper pictures, but before I glued the panels in, I bend some acrylic tubes for the water cooling and connected the CPU to the loop. I think this is my very first mod where the drain valve is actually the lowest spot in the loop. Its right at the front and easily accessible. It will be covered with the nose part later. I already made a test, and I get like 99% of the water out of the loop this way. The special Titan X GPU will sit in the back. The opening I planned before, was not big enough. I just grabbed my Proxxon and made it a little bigger. The edges were covered with aluminum profiles. This also added a bit more stability. Luckily, my wife loves painting, so I got some help for the weathering. First all detail lines were colored in a dark tone, to highlight the separation of the panels. Then multiple layers of grey, brown and black color were dabbed on to achieve a used look. Now that the X-Wing is basically done, I needed a place for it. Its really hard to find suitable tables in the right size and height, so I build my own one as a stand for the mod. Yes, I build my own table for a case mod ^^ To hold the weight of the X-Wing, I constructed a large base from multiple layers of ply wood. At one end, I included a steel pole. The top side will bear a smaller base, that will be directly attached to the body of the X-Wing with screws.
  4. While working on the electric, I soldered another light effect. The 4 "lasers" should also shoot some light, two at each time. So the left top and right bottom and vise versa at the same time. Therefore, I made this simple circuit using two capacitors and two transistors. You will see it later in the video. I also reworked the motorization of the BB8 and switched from a servo to a Arduino controlled stepper motor. Also, more in the video ^^ Then it was finally time to work on the inside of the X-Wing. I started in the front section of the main body and applied some carbon vinyl. Here the water tanks will be placed. Ok, I added the water tank and the first fittings right after. On the inner wall, I attached an RGB strip and soldered the controller right at the front. Before working on the cockpit, I needed to spray paint the walls first. To keep the design, I also applied some carbon vinyl to the inside. Also this was the time to put the mobo into place. I wanted to make the cockpit look more like an actual space ship cockpit. So, I first make some empty panels to see my layout. The panel on the middle has a big hole in it. Here I will make a cover later that can be removed to work on the cables. After I decided what I wanted to place on the panels, I drilled in all needed holes. Then LEDs and switches were placed. The cover for the middle panel also got the typical symbol from the rebellion.
  5. After adding the 5th exhaust, I reworked the other 4 also a little bit. You might remember, I installed a normal RGB LED strip in each exhaust. This maybe looks nice, but I dont have much controll over the LEDs. So, I took some of my left over APA106 LEDs from the WOPR project, which are individual addressable. I wanted to install 8 LEDs in each exhaust the get a nice and diffused light. All had to be connected to 104 nF capacitors first. To make them fit perfectly and ensure an even distribution of light, I printed some spacers and soldered the LEDs into place. The animation, I had in mind was something like a starting jet engine. So maybe some explosions at start and then a fading effect from red to yellow to blue. This indicates, the turbine will go up in speed. When blue, there will be some white light sparks, giving the impression the engine is actually running. All is done with an Arduino Nano to save space. Here are some pictures of the transition. More in the making-of video later. I couldn't wait and had to install two wings and see the effect.
  6. Although the final pictures for the CMWS are already around the internet, I dont want to rush the worklog now In some designs, the T-70 X-Wing has another turbine/exhaust part at the back directly in the middle. So I wanted to resemble this also. And ofc 5 exhausts look better then just 4. I designed a simple part and 3D printed it. After some sanding you could really see the final form. I found this small Cooler Master 60mm fan in a random box. I thought why not put it inside the exhaust. Looks OK so far. Then the part was painted in the same style as the other exhaust parts from the turbines. Also the fan was glued into place. at the end I made a first test fit on the main body.
  7. Sometimes the small things make all the difference.
  8. Finally, after decades another update on the X-Wing. To finish the project for the CMWS this year, I started to add a little bit more details. I made some inserts for the turbines. And because I needed 4 of them I just thought it would be a nice idea to try some mold making and casting. I made a simple one part mold and casted the 4 pieces in Smooth Cast 300. After some sanding, I could prime and color the parts. They were glued into the turbine. For the inner side of the wings, I also wanted to add details. First I build something that should look a bit like an engine part. Then I printed, cut and casted a lot of small parts for even more details. They were partly combined into bigger pieces before adding a couple layers of spray filler. After a quick wet sanding, all parts were painted. And ofc installed. Here you can see a before and after. I also added some details to the top part of the wing.
  9. my wife is in charge of the video cutting, but currently on a conference, try to make it the week after next week.
  10. And here are some final pics. The making of will follow shortly.
  11. Finally another update on the WOPR For the LED panels I still needed to build a small shroud. I simply cut some acrylic into shape and painted in in the same color as the panels itself. They were put into place just by some double sided tape. If you know the movie, you know that the WOPR has some lables all around. At first, I wanted to make a stencil and spray it on, but watching the movie again, made me realize, they just used some vinyl to make the lables. So, I went over to my vinyl cutter and made my own. And attached them already. To start the computer and LEDs later, I needed some buttons. They should not be visible from the outside, So I put them behind the cover at the front. Programming the LEDs was now the last step. Its really a bunch of code. Here you can see a picture from the work in progress, but it already shows the effect pretty good. Now, I will install the LED panels and work on the cable management. And then its time for some final pictures and a video.
  12. Thanks! :D Cause the forum was down a while here is some more of the worklog. Finally, I started to cover the case with yellow and black foil, to stay in the Pikachu/Pokemon theme. And ofc all the holes for the ventilation needed to be cut out. The front panel also got a small Pikachu silouette. On the inside, I put a part of the movie poster. Ob the back side I attached a second silouette and the name giving letters. Last, I build the water cooling. Its a tripple loop system with independant loops for the GPU, CPU and memory.
  13. Next up, I built the mounting for the water tanks. I simply glued everything on a plywood sheet what will perfectly fit into the right compartment. The water tanks will be placed in the holes and stabilized from the bottom. To make the construction look more like a city scene, I 3d printed panels with windows inside. There will be a light effect later on behind the windows. For my next step, I needed to completely dismantle the LEvel 20. Which is suprisingly easy. Just unscrew some screws and you are done. After everything was dismantled, I set the position of the drain ports.
  14. Next, I worked on the right compartment bearing the water tanks and radiators. First, I cut a wooden pannel to mount the radis into place. And ofc a first test fit. To hide the wooden structure, I covered everything with black carbon foil. Then, I also included the water tanks and tried to see on which hight they should be mounted.
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