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rolldog

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About rolldog

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  • Birthday 10/11/1972

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  1. I know it's been a while, but I've been working on sleeving and acrylic tubing since I posted this, but I am interested in your ideas on lighting. When given the choice between clear cast acrylic, fluorescent, transparent, etc, you suggest using white acrylic because it really helps diffuse the light and is versatile, by taking any color LED I decide to use? I just spent so much time making an infinity mirror, using acrylic pieces and mirror film cut to the exact specifications of the double reservoir mounting bracket in my Caselabs TH10A. I also had 1"x1"x1" acrylic cubes, which I spaced out inside of the mirror and inserted a blue LED into each one of them. I bought some 1" spacers, which I used to put the mounting screws through for my reservoirs and mounted them on top of the mirror and bolted them to the back of the reservoir mount. Everything turned out great except the fact that once I put everything in place inside my case, the reservoirs were too far out for me to run my tubing and be able to shut the door to my case. So, out of frustration, I destroyed it, and I had to order a new reservoir mounting bracket. The reservoirs mounted to this white mounting plate looked boring, so I ended up buying a sheet of fluorescent blue acrylic and drilled holes into the sides for 3mm UV LEDs, which looks ok, but the light isn't diffused much. I imagine it would look much better if I were talented enough to sketch something into the acrylic, like a big logo or something. It seems like that's what the fluorescent acrylic does best. As far as lighting in the rest of my system, I don't really know what to do, but the white acrylic kind of gives me some ideas at least. I have a couple of Aqua Computer Farbwerk controllers to control some LED strips, but I'm not sure how I want to set them up. Everyone runs them around the inside of their case, but if I could think of something more original, that would be great. Too bad I can't think of anything else. I thought about running LED strips under my MB for a more indirect lighting effect, but I don't have enough room.
  2. Ok, thanks again for all your help.
  3. I spoke with someone at PrimoChill, who owns the Mod-Smart brand, and I asked them about the wiring since these wires are soldered and I'd rather get it right the first time. This is what they told me as far as wiring it up: I apologize for the delay in getting back to you, I wanted to be sure I returned with useful information. What I'm told is that you can simply wire this as you would the momentary switch in the normally closed position to achieve the result you want. So you will wire the + and - and then you'd wire C and NC. Please give this a shot and let me know if that works for you. I do apologize that I am not as familiar with this part as the other parts we've discussed in the past. Keep in mind that as long as you don't exceed 12V you can experiment with the switch to get the function you desire out of it. Please be in touch if this does not work for you so we can continue to troubleshoot. Any thoughts on this since it's different from your recommendation? I was wondering if it even makes a difference whether it's NO or NC, and then I thought maybe the switch is wired to where the only way it could close the circuit is if it's wired as NC. Any thoughts on this? The connectors on the switch are so small I can't find connectors to crimp to the wires, which would make it much easier to change the configuration, but since I can't find any, I'll have to solder the wires to the connectors first and then protect them with some heatshrink. So, like I mentioned, I'd rather get this right the first time, but does it make sense that it might only work with 2 wires in the NC position or do you think I could hook either the NO or the NC to C and get the same result?
  4. Me too! Lesson learned, just buy a plain switch next time.
  5. Yes, my switch is made by mod-smart, which I believe is owned by PrimoChill, but my 2 pin PCB distribution is made by ModMyToys.
  6. Awesome! That's exactly what I was thinking, but I didn't know for sure. Yea, Mosquito, I should have just bought a switch, with zero wires, and it would have made this a lot easier. Since I have no plans whatsoever to power the fans, they will be controlled by my Aquaero, and I only want to turn the LEDs on and off, similar to using the jumper that came on the fan LEDs and putting it on and taking it off, I could have set this up with 2 wires on the switch instead of the 8 that it came with. Thanks a lot for the info Kyle, and sorry to bother you guys with this. At least I know now, in the future, just buy a switch with no wires. Switches are used for so many different things, and the chances of it coming wired exactly how I want it wired is pretty slim. Again, thanks a lot for the info.
  7. Ok, it's kind of confusing because there are LEDs on the fans and an LED on the switch, but I'll try my best to describe exactly what I want to do. First, these are latching switches, not momentary switches. All the fans in my build are PWM controlled fans, which will all be controlled by my Aquaero. Some of my case fans are different from the rest. These fans are Bitfenix Spectre PWM LED fans. Each fan has blue LEDs on them, and they came with a jumper installed on the 2 pin connector which powers the LED. With the jumper attached, the LEDs will power on whenever the fan is powered on. I assume one of the 2 pin wires running to the LED is getting its power from the PWM connector because with the jumper installed, the LED comes on everytime the fan is powered on. The fan also came with an optional 2 pin cable, which can replace the jumper. When this 2 pin cable is hooked up, replacing the jumper, the LED can then be turned on and/or off with a switch, while the fan is powered on. Bitfenix makes their own controller to operate these LEDs, and they say the switch must not be powered. To test this out, I replaced all the jumpers on the fans with the 2 pin connector they came with, I plugged them into a 2 pin distribution PCB (a non-powered PCB made by ModMyToys), plugged the only available switch I had at the time to the header on the 2 pin PCB (which was the reset button on my case, a momentary switch), and when the fans were powered on, none of the LEDs were on. If I pressed the reset button, a momentary switch which was connected to the header on the same 2 pin PCB where all the LED wires were connected, and if I held it in, all the LEDs on all the fans would come on. So, I ordered these switches, which are latching switches, to run to the 2 pin PCB distribution along with all the fan LEDs so I can turn all these fan LEDs on or off, but this switch was pre-wired with 2 MOLEX connectors. After reading through the 3 inch manual that came with the switch (a picture of it is in the link I posted), I saw where the positive and negative wires hook up to the switch to power the LED on the switch itself. It also shows how to wire the switch normally closed, normally open (for Power Switch Connections), and it shows how to wire the switch if I want the LED on the switch to light up and turn off as the switch is opened or if the switch is closed. All I want to do is to have the LED lit on the switch at all times, and I want to be able to remove these MOLEX connectors, run a 2 pin connector to the 2 pin header on the PCB, so I can use this switch to turn the fan LEDs on or off, that's it. Now, I wish I would have bought a switch that had no wiring at all because it would have been much easier to hook up. This switch has way to many wires to do what I want it to do. Hopefully this made more sense. If you look at the pictures, the switch has 2 MOLEX connectors and a wire in each spot, but the switch itself only has a red, a black, and a yellow wire. I'm pretty certain the red and the black are the positive and negative for the LED on the switch. I'm guessing the yellow wire, which has a jumper connected to 2 places on the back of the switch, could be run from 2 different terminals on the back of the switch into a 2 pin connector so I can hook it up, like I did with the reset button, to turn the fan LEDs on and/or off. Please let me know if you still don't understand so I can fly to wherever you are and show you. :)
  8. Oh, no wonder I couldn't figure it out. Here's a link to some pictures of the switch, the current wiring, and the pinout it came with. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/he2iceqckfkzqm8/AADoWT9ZT3YiZCccSl83tyl1a?dl=0 I'd like to keep the LED on the switch illuminated, so I guess I would keep the + & - hooked up. It's the other part that has me confused, mostly because this switch provides power when on and it doesn't when off, but I don't need power at all. These LEDs get the power from the PWM connector, and whenever the circuit is closed (or if the jumper is on the LED 2 pin connector) it lights up. I should have bought a switch that wasn't wired. Before ordering this switch, I hooked it up by making a jumper on my PSU, powered the fans on, had the 2 pin LED wires plugged into the Modmytoys 2 pin PCB, and hooked the reset switch to the PCB, which I know isn't the correct kind of switch but when I pushed the reset button and held it in, all the fan LEDs lit up. This is the correct kind of switch, which stays on or off, but as you'll see from the pictures, some of these wires aren't needed. I bought 2 switches, and in one of the pics I removed the wires from the MOLEX connectors so you can see how it's currently wired. I'm assuming the black and red wires would supply power to the LED on the switch, the yellow wire has a jumper on it, but I think all I need to do is remove the jumper and run a wire from each connector into a 2 pin header, which will then close the circuit whenever the button is pressed.
  9. Ok, I got the switch plate mounted fine, but I opened up the switches I intend to install there and I need some advice with the wiring. The switches came with 2 MOLEX connectors on them, one to light the LED on the switch and the other to provide power for the switch, but I don't need power to the switch, only to the LED on the switch. All I need the switch to do is exactly that, open and close the circuit, and I need to replace the MOLEX connector with a 2 pin connector to control some LEDs which will be connected to a 2 pin bank made by Modmytoys. I'd attach a picture of the switch and the pinout that came with it, but I can't figure out how to add an attachment.
  10. Gotcha. Thanks a lot. I have a step drill bit I used to make my holes for my water fill ports. It seems like doing it this way leaves a much lower margin for error, plus I have a tap drill bit for the size screws it came with. This might be a lot easier than I anticipated. Thanks a lot for the advice!
  11. I just purchased an MNPCTech CNC machined aluminum mounting plate for 2 x 22mm switches, and I wanted to get an idea how this should be installed. I have a Caselabs TH10A with a 120mm top on it, and I'd like to install it into the top. Is it as simple as cutting a rectangle a little smaller than the plate, on the inside of the screw holes, them mount the plate over the newly cut rectangle and use the screws to secure it to the case, on the outside of the piece I cut? Or, is there another way this should be done. I'm asking first so I don't have to order another 120mm top if I mess this up. I'd really appreciate any suggestions. Thanks!
  12. If you go to www.mainframcustom.com, you can buy any sleeving tool you need, along with sleeving, pins, connectors, cable mgmt, etc. They also sell a good crimper with light blue handles that work perfectly for the wings on the MOLEX pins, if you don't feel like using pliers. I believe this company was started from someone who worked at LutroO, since many of the pictures on the site reference LutroO. LutroO used to sell and build good quality stuff, but I think something must have happened internally at the company, they split, and now we have mainframecustom.com and e22.biz. Between the 2 of them, you should be able to find any cable/sleeving/tool you'll ever need.
  13. You're definitely going to void your warranty, unless you can paint it back and take a chance they can't tell it was painted. I just finished painting my RVE, but I only painted the PCIe and DRAM slots.
  14. Yes, I just finished polishing my frosted acrylic parts, just 2 Bitspower pump tops, and I did exactly what you mentioned here with one exception, I dry sanded instead of wet sanded. It seemed to work faster than wet sanding, which I normally do on paint jobs. Since dry sanding, I went up to 2000 grit sandpaper, then washed all the dust off, let the parts dry, and then I used a 3M rubbing compound. I used the rubbing compound twice, but the second time I used a polishing accessory for my dremel, which did an awesome job! I kept the dremel under 10k, and didn't apply very much pressure, and my pump tops came out looking like glass. With the polishing accessory for the dremel, I tried polishing a frosted acrylic fitting, and it too came out like glass. So, I validate Kraken's process, but since I dry sanded instead of wet sanded, I can't say if one works better than another, but if you do dry sand, I recommend going all the way up to 2000 grit sandpaper.
  15. I've been following everyone's builds and suggestions on this site, but this is my first post. I must say, everyone here is on a much higher level of case modding that I've ever seen, so now, after finally receiving my new CaseLabs Th10A, I want to mod the case, and I figured this would be the best place to find an answer. Like I mentioned, my TH10A has arrived, and it's still in the box while I finish some painting, sleeving, and other projects. I bought the 120mm extension top for my case, which has ventilation for both 480mm rads up top,but I'd really like to either cut and install a window around the majority of the top or I thought about replacing the entire top with acrylic but leaving the sides of the 120mm top as they are so the rads and fans can only be seen from the top. I curious to know if anyone has done this before, if so, could you please post a link to your build/build log. My only concern is ventilation. Is it possible for me to do this and either cut slits to provide ventilation for my rads & fans or should I cut quarter size holes, maybe smaller or larger, randomly on the entire piece of acrylic, or whatever type of material is recommended, to provide ventilation in the top of my case? I would really appreciate any advice on how the best way to add this see through top. If it's just a window, then I could use the window mounting hardware on the underside of my original case top, but if I wanted to replace the entire top (1 large sheet to cover a double magnum case), what's the best way for me to attach and secure this top sheet to the original sides of the top? Either way, I still face the ventilation issue, so what's the best way for me to provide ventilation, and is acrylic the best to use in this situation or will another type of material work better? The color theme of my rig is white with blue trim, and if I decide to go the route of replacing the entire top, how could I add Edge lighting that will light up the piece of acrylic from all 4 sides. If anyone has any suggestions/input, links to any build logs to someone who might have done this, or something similar before, or if this isn't even possible because I'll need ventilation for 2 x 480mm rads, I would greatly appreciate input. I figured if this job is doable, them someone here would be able to give me a little advice or lead me in the right direction. Thanks a lot!