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kaisounovsky

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kaisounovsky last won the day on December 13 2018

kaisounovsky had the most liked content!

About kaisounovsky

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    lower branch munkey

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Tunisia
  • Interests
    PC Modding & Hardware - Bodybuilding

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  1. this is one of the shortest & with the most unespected finishes worklogs, the factory part is a piece of art
  2. Haha Thanks my friend I suffered getting it downstairs to my room.. ..after that heavyweight lift I got my biceps bigger ?.....& a little back pain. No no I'm ok ..just kidding ❤
  3. Sorry about that dude. You are always remembering us to take safety precautions..I would thank you for that ..I will not play the tough guy with chemicals anymore.
  4. After two days of tests I had to flush the system, the water was clean, I think the rads cleaning was successful : I Replaced the thermal paste ( Arctic MX-2) with thermal grizzly « Hydronaut » & refilled with the new coolant :
  5. First boot : After A few hours with no leaks , I felt it is a safe status to boot, & check the watercooling performance : Room temp is between 15 & 20 actually , I haven’t a thermometer to measure it. Cpu temps at idle are around 22 – 25°C & GPU is 17° to 22°, With stock frequencies & Turbo boost enabled stress test wit OCCT 4.5.1 (64bits & AVX enabled) never surpassed 55° for the CPU & 35 ° for GPU test , soo satisfying , with my later all in one I was around 70° & with aircooled GPU it was around 80°
  6. Building the Loop - EK ACF fittings are hard to tighten with hands, I forgot to order a 9mm Allen key, I just made one out of a 10mm Allen at my disposal , it is not advisable to overtighten anyway, G1/4 threads on plexi blocks may crack easily : The Tubes were impossible to mount to the pump’s big barbs , even with water & soap, it wasn’t helpful, most efficient method is to enlarge the ends using long nose pliers :
  7. Inspection Inside of the rads : This is my first custom loop, I haven't enough experience to get an opinion, it seemed clean enough to me though :
  8. Radiator’s Flush : The Radiators were taken out & cleaned this way : - first flush : Hot deionized water (60-70°C) + 40 % Distilled white vinegar , this is a bit a stronger acidic solution comparing to what PC builders usually use, (10 to 20% Vinegar), all I wanted is a fast flush : ( 15 to 20 minutes with radiator shake dance) Then the solution is poured in a glass jar for examination : Then filtered into a coffee filter, you can see the dirty stuff sticking there : -Second Flush : Only Hot deionized water ( another 15 to 20 minutes) -Third Flush : deionized water : (10 minutes) My EK ZMT Tubes were also flushed with hotter deionized water (80-90°c) · - According to the manufacturer : Due to the nature of manufacturing the tubing may contain traces of char. https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-tube-zmt-matte-black-16-1-11-1mm-3m-retail I don’t know exactly what is « char » about & if it may clog the system if not cleaned, but I’ve noticed some tiny dots reflecting light at the inner walls of the tubes, which have disappeared after the hot flush, I forgot to take photos, sorry.
  9. Reservoir’s RGB’s , a bit tricky : Watercool Heatkiller tube 150 is a great looking product, I took them mostly for the borosilicate glass material & its high chemical resistance, almost a complete disassembly is needed to install RGB : After taking the reservoir apart, I noticed that my strips are too large (about 12mm) for the holder, impossible to mount them there… I checked the website & it seems that 8mm large Strips can fit there : http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/78017 I lost hope for a moment, then I found the solution, I had to remove the rubber protection, isolate the conductive parts with nail polish , then push the strip down into the groove using enough force to bend the sides, & trying to not damage the solder joints of the diodes. Then I took the strip out again, soldered the cable, added double sided tape & installed it , Note : The Heatkiller tube comes with multiple versions, some has Anodized Aluminum struts (Black, Red or Blue) & one version with bare Aluminum, different color struts can be ordered separately. http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30260 http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30241 http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30242 http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30240 The Good thing is, The anodized Aluminum is non-conductive on the surface, unless you scratch it to bare metal, all we have to worry about is a big coolant leak on the led strips when filling the loop, I have to admit that this accident may happen to a very few extremely clumsy people.
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