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  1. Upvote
    23RO_UK reacted to Bill Owen in DEEPCOOL TRISTELLAR PC Case Mod   
    This is my Deepcool TRISTELLAR Gaming PC Case Mod for Deepcool. I created this mod by their request to release as “Bill Owen” signature edition later this year
    This unique case disrupts the traditional concept of a PC case, splits components into three cabins; three high hardness “V” shape metal frames and full metal shells ensure Tristellar has a reliable and solid structure, the system is not only for an artistic appearance, but also a great cooling performance by separating the most heat-generating parts of a PC. The case supports the latest gaming configuration, it is an excellent choice for gamer or PC builder who want a case with both high performance and aesthetics.
    Deepcool DA700 ATX Power Supply
    Deepcool Maelstrom CPU Cooler
    EVGA GeForce GTX 980 04G-P4-2982-KR Superclocked G-SYNC Support Video Card
    3x Crucial MX100 CT256MX100SSD1 2.5" 256GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
    ASUS Z97I-PLUS LGA 1150 Intel Z97 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Mini ITX Intel Motherboard
    Intel Core i7-4790 Haswell Quad-Core 3.6GHz LGA 1150 84W BX80646I74790 Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 4600
    AVEXIR Blitz 1.1 Series Original (White LED) 8GB Kit (2 x 4GB) Dual Channel 240-pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2400 (PC3 19200) Desktop Memory Module Model AVD3U24001004G-2BZ1

  2. Upvote
    23RO_UK reacted to alain-s in [CIP] Purpura (XPS 720) Completed !!!   
    The Time has come after a long waiting the mod is finally finished. Only re used the out side panels of the case. The rest of the panels where all custom made for this case. I could not have done this with out the help of a few sponsors.
    Thank you!

    This was it, I hope you all enjoyed the build as much as I have. :)
  3. Upvote
    23RO_UK reacted to InsolentGnome in F3-modded CM Scout 2 Advanced [Completed, Again]   
    So I got the rest of the decals for the build put on this weekend.  While ordering them, there was some mis-communication which led to me getting an extra, 280mm decal.  Thank god, cause I suck at putting them on and wound up using the extra because I screwed up the first one.  So rather than having a large MV logo on the side of the case, I have MV's world champion logo there instead.  Not my first choice, but it works.
    On to the pictures

    And a question for anyone out there too.  Picture-wise, what do you focus on?  And I don't mean the camera focus, but what parts of your build?  I figure the givens are some exterior shots, maybe 3/4's or a side or front on, but what about inside? 
  4. Upvote
    23RO_UK reacted to alain-s in [CIP] Purpura (XPS 720) Completed !!!   
    Thx Cheapskate :)
    Thank you Orangeclockwerk, sometimes you have to design it yourself because no stock reservoir will fit. :)
    Thanks Onevoicewild
    It has bin a while when there was a update. But it doesn't not mean that there was no progress.
    Change all the purple sleeve with the sleeve from E22. This color fits beter with the coolant color.
    Then I polished the reservoir.

    Made a HDD/SSD Bracket that can be installed behind the motherboard.

    Started to cut out the top window and reservoir. And completed the copper loop. The pipes will be sanded polished and nickleplated.

    This week the package arrived from Parvum System

    They made a new set of windows for the case.
    Thx Justin :)

    Made the cut out with a jigsaw and cleaned the borders with a file and sanding paper. With this as result.

    Test fitting the windows. :)

    Now the only thing that need to be installed is the PSU/GPU cover
  5. Upvote
    23RO_UK got a reaction from Peter Mc in Project LilyPC V.2 by E.E.L. Ambiense   
    As per Mos's post, the sheer level of detail is phenomenal bro; I keep looking back at the photo's and seeing something new.
    Truly an epic girlie girls dream PC B)  
  6. Upvote
    23RO_UK reacted to E.E.L. Ambiense in Project CLUNK by E.E.L. Ambiense - Final Photos 12/5   
    Final Photos

    Click on the thumbs for larger photos


    I couldn't bring myself to prune down the amount of shots anymore than I did, so I'm done with 50 PHOTOS.  Not bad, considering I shot over 200+.  ;) 

    Excess at its excessive. 


    FYI:  This is not the end of this project though.  Stay tuned for Phase III of Project CLUNK!


  7. Upvote
    23RO_UK reacted to Mosquito in Mini Watercooled HTPC - Mosquito - Updated 7th, Nov 2014 - Final Pictures in the Sun   
    Well, this is it *sniff* I think we’re done here…

    I was thinking about taking some pictures in the light booth I usually use for reviews, but after these… not sure it matters lol. I might still, though, to get some interior shots and the like.

    Anyway, I took it outside this past weekend while it was nice, to get some pictures in the sun. It really shows off the grain a lot more.

    I have the interior lights on for these two, I swear! Lol

    I may take and post some more pictures in the light tent when I have it set up for the next review (which will be shortly). Hopefully that will show more of the interior features, and the lighting effect.

    Until then, thanks for checking it out! This has been a fun project. I may have one more thing in store for it as well, so don’t think that this worklog is complete just yet ;)

  8. Upvote
    23RO_UK reacted to Cheapskate in The Iron Turnip   
    Thanks! :lol: Weird is not dull. The card is going to be a challenge.
    Yes, draw grill, check plog turned render thread. :lol:

    -A little to the left, now down... This is why washers exist.

    -So I noticed a standard motherboard tray ate a whole lot of room in a curved tank. I drew up a little something to get as close to the sides as I could.

    -I started with a bunch of risers. These originally were for the above tray. It's hard to see since the camera doesn't pick up purple at all, but this is a sandwich of clear, blue, and purple.

    -The old mobo tray was glued down and laid before the mill. A sacrifice was needed to appease the mill. It thirsts for aluminum.
    What? -anyway, session one and two. One bit change for the holes that need to be tapped. The holes are too small for a standard 1/8" bit.

    -Session 3. I slowed the spindle back down so it didn't throw the oil. The grill must have used a whole pint.

    -#4. A quick soak in water and the MDF could be pulled off. Note the color of the newspaper. -Yeah, a LOT of oil was used on the grill. :(

    -There was a lot of cleanup again. I didn't get all the way through in places. I need something to smash the silicone SUPER flat, or a better glue option.

    -Well, I think the new tray is too small for ITX. :X I see SSD mount holes too.

    -I call this one, "lost opportunity." If I was doing a bench, I'd totally mount it on a swivel like this.

    -I have lots of wacky options for mounting this to the radiator grill.

    -Some of the cleanup involved making the holes ROUND. There was an ugly flat spot on both near where the bit plunged. -Not sure how that happened. Mounting was solid.

    -Thingies, session one.

    -All thingies cut. Time for some cleanup. (I should totally do that cleanup thing... before the oil makes it to the carpet.)

    -I think I have to re-do this one, once I figure out which one it is... Something went wrong. I suspect the first past was too aggressive. It got one side shaved down since this area was mostly on an air pocket in the glue.

    -Someone wanted to make silicone gaskets? I think I nailed it

    -Those combine to form this splayed out drunken robot spider-thing.

    -Oops. I should have numbered them or something. I had to boot up the rig with the model and decipher my work.

    -Much better! I just have to hope this clears the chip mounting bracket. :( This dead atom board made this look easy.
    -That's all for today. I gotta degrease the rug.
  9. Upvote
    23RO_UK reacted to Jeffrey Stephenson in Project Addison   
    Most of those mahogany photos have the fill light adjusted so the grain would show up. It is very dark but that is why it ended up being a scrap sample. I'm trying to use the lighter parts of the veneer sheet.
    Thanks. Mahogany it is! CROTCH CROTCH CROTCH
    Cheaps playing with word replacement. There are way, way too many other words I can use for CROTCH. :)
    Thanks. I love it too. I secretly hope the Mahogany fails so I can use the Burl instead.
    I think I'm going to wait until all the pieces (grill and mesh) get placed before trying to solve that problem. I suspect you are right about slapping. #CROTCH #Slapping
    If you are allergic to extreme minutia then please skip this update. People have been bugging me for years to do a veneering tutorial. I have resisted because...well...you are about to find out. I was trained to veneer by professional cabinet makers but the process I have developed over the past 12 years doesn't resemble the professional method.   The difference is driven by the fact that I place no restrictions on my time.   Preparing. Got my coffee (black) and my Jawbone Jambox (Project Orchestra) tuned to the Pandora Steely Dan channel.   I cried when I wrote this song, Sue me if I play too long.       Sprung the mahogany strips from the Tupperware tumbler. Yes, I'm going with the Mahogany CROTCH. I give it a 60% success rate because of the brittle, damage prone veneer and the fact I don't have enough of it to survive an error. Back up plan is to layer the burl on top of it.        Great photo of the top of Orchestra. Doh! Auto-focus through a hole. Shows the overlap to be trimmed.       Mark the overlap with my 90-year-old mechanical pencil and cut the excess off with my EZ-Cutter. Still left too much...on purpose.       Use a 100-grit professional nail file designed to work on fake acrylic nails. Fit the veneer, file some off, fit, file, fit, file until I get the perfect fit.     Glue of choice. Common water-based carpenters glue. I like my glue to be fresh.       Wet paper towel for cleanup. I apply the glue with my fingers. It is very important to not get any glue on the veneer outer surface because it will show up later when a finish is applied.       Very bad photos of glue.   One of the major problems with veneering is glue bleed through. That is why I never apply glue to the veneer surface.       Tupperware tumbler "clamping" the veneer into place.     View from the underside.       I get about 15 minutes before the glue sets up. I have developed a process I call clenching. I remove the clamping pressure every few minutes and place it again from a different position. Here I have inserted the tumbler from the underside. By applying pressure from different directions the glue gets "worked in" from the clenching action.       During the clenching operation before the glue sets up I take time to sand the gap. This is to generate saw dust and force it into the gap. This helps hide the seam.       Let dry for three hours. The excess veneer is still very fragile and will need to be gently trimmed down to about 1mm. I do this by carving with my razer knife.    It is important to know the direction of the woodgrain. The grain will either guide the knife blade towards the hole or away from it. Carve in the direction that guides the blade away from the hole otherwise there is a real risk of tearing out a large section right across the wrong surface. Also, the grain can change directions along its length so the carving needs to be adjusted for that.         Down at 1mm the veneer is sturdy enough to accept sanding along its edge but not across it. The underside is sanded down flush to the mesh support.       This is what I'm trying to avoid here.       The topside edge will have another piece of veneer glued perpendicular across the top of it. For these edges I do what I call a Tupperware lip. That's another one of those things I have developed over the years. I take a regular nail file and sand the edge down until it leaves a very small "bump" as felt by fingertip.       This is done instead of sanding flush to the surface. The lip forces the overlaying veneer to have positive contact along the entire edge. This creates a much tighter seal along the seam so it can keep moisture out. That's how veneer fails. Another advantage of the Tupperware lip is that during gluing a finger can be run across the edge scraping glue off and pooling it up right where I want it to be pooled.   And that's it. 
  10. Upvote
    23RO_UK reacted to Michael Kaiser in The Primate Returns - 26/01/2017 - Mothball/W1Conc3pt   
    Excellent! I had to go back to the start of the log to figure out which case this was, which only confused me more. You always have great tastes on which case to work with, It really is an elegant design and you worked it beautifully. Ok now tare everything down and put it in another case - The perpetual build log!
  11. Upvote
    23RO_UK reacted to Waynio in Lean And Green - dual PC   
    So I've put it to use.

    P67 MSI motherboard
    i5 2500k @4.2ghz
    Noctua d14 heat sink
    8GB DDR3 @1866 Samsung low power
    4GB GTX 770 SLI Gigabyte windforce
    Corsair 860i PSU
    Prolimatech, Akasa & Noctua fans
    Lamptron fan controller
    256GB Samsung SSD
    1TB WD black
    DVD optical
  12. Upvote
    23RO_UK reacted to RE Spartan in Defender Leona build/mod log   
    Fixed the paint!   It looks alot better now imho.


    what do you think?  I am pretty much done with it except for the colored cutout that will go on the circle part.

  13. Upvote
    23RO_UK got a reaction from John-Ivar Rubach in GULF Performance   
    Love the film, love the livery and I'm a petrol head!!!  :D
    Win, win and win!!!  ;)
    Count me in for the ride  B)
  14. Upvote
    23RO_UK reacted to Waynio in Lean And Green - dual PC   
    More progress woohoo. :D
    Been sorting the framework to get the gaming rig together, still a way to go but can pick it up by the lower rods like a trophy, load of filing & sanding & a little more framework to do now, had to do the curved pieces twice.

    I'll do final assembly shots so it can be seen how it all goes together since I've skipped progress.
  15. Upvote
    23RO_UK reacted to Waynio in Lean And Green - dual PC   
    I'll do a stop motion video of final assembly, good idea. :D
    :lol: Thanks mate. :)
    Done extra framework using the optical drive as part of it, added the fans & side windows & fan controller window & added holes to the mobo tray.

    It's getting closer. :D
  16. Upvote
    23RO_UK reacted to Waynio in Lean And Green - dual PC   
    Thanks guys, made a smidge more progress again. :D
    Popped the front window in place.

  17. Upvote
    23RO_UK reacted to Mosquito in Mini Watercooled HTPC - Mosquito - Updated 7th, Nov 2014 - Final Pictures in the Sun   
    And… time for another update. This one considerably more substantial than the last one. Making the removable panel assembly.

    Lots of clamps… gluing a piece to the edge of what will be the front edge of the side panel

    After that, and before I got too far, I cut out the hole for the window.

    Adding some more pieces to help with alignment when it goes on the case, and to help the rigidity a little.

    This should give a nice view of the hardware once it’s done.

    Cut a piece for the top panel, and cut a hole in it for the fan intake. I will eventually put mesh here too. Yes, it took a few trials at the layout lines before I was happy with the size.

    I glued the top panel on to the side panel, as the side, front, and top will be one removable piece. It makes things a lot easier.

    Added another bracing/gluing piece to the front

    Finally I glued the front piece on. I used a few nails to keep things aligned while I clamped it up, but then removed them once the clamps were in place.

    Another piece to help keep the top from flexing.

    Added a piece to the bottom of the front panel (inside) with two (2) dowels in it. These go into holes drilled in the base, and keeps things from moving around when in place.

    And here we have it; the completed side/top/front panel assembly. I still need to add mesh and a window, but that will be one of the last things that gets added.

    I set it on a few scraps on the base, to get the idea of what it’ll look like.

    Thanks, as always, for checking it out and any comments :)
  18. Upvote
    23RO_UK reacted to Cheapskate in The one project log rule. (Please read before posting)   
    OK, I'm in a foul mood, so I throw out royal edicts and stuff. Politically correct isn't my thing, either.
    We've been fairly lax on the rules, but we on the verge of becoming THAT ONE SITE where the project logs are dominated with posts filled only with hot air. I've seen logs that don't even have a PLAN lately.:(
    This stuff chases off potential enthusiasts. Imagine skimming through threads for 30 minutes and finding nothing but, "Imma gonna, but I don't know how."
    PLEASE do not start a thread here until you have some actual progress to show, pictures, or have even bought a camera. 
    No one is going to "Watch this space," for months because you are going to do, "something awesome."
    Save the dreams, butterflies, and pixie dust for somewhere else. Here we are interested only in blue smoke, power tools, and metal shavings.
  19. Upvote
    23RO_UK reacted to ToddK in Prj2 'Downtown' - [COMPLETED]   
    Project complete.  Much thanks to Gigabyte and Cooler Master for their terrific contributions to this project!





















  20. Upvote
    23RO_UK reacted to Bad Fenny in SCRATCH BUILD: Metro Last Light   
    Hi Bill,
    Yeah I know . . . I really suck at explaining things.  These ideas kind of float around in my head and rendering is not my strong suit.  The PSU is mounted in the third ammo case but when I feed the 24 pin cable through from the PSU ammo case to the main tower case it does not have enough room to manoeuver and make the turn to plug in to the mobo 24 pin connector (not a lot of room). 
    However if I run the wires out of the PSU ammo can (through the top of the lid)and will then be fed into the main case through the top of the main tower (two ammo cases stacked together). The exposed cables will be covered by a faux covering which will be modded to look like a medical kit (central piece of kit for the game).

    Sorry I think I am confusing myself. :wacko:


  21. Upvote
    23RO_UK reacted to Bill Owen in Phanteks introduces Enthoo Pro Full Tower Case   
    Phanteks Enthoo Luxe Full Tower.... looks damn good

  22. Upvote
    23RO_UK reacted to Bill Owen in H.R. GIGER Tribute PC, "RESURREKTION"   
    So to summarize everything... It started on this build in 2006, but got it shelved several times for customer commitments. What prompted me to finally get it done? H.R. GIGER's Passing on May 12, 2014, and of course our "Dust-Off" event was major kick in my own ass.... If you've never heard of H.R., you've probably seen his artwork. He was most well known for his Visual Effects and design work on the first Alien movie, in which he created iconic "Xenomorph" ALIEN. Long before working on that movie, he had established career as a painter, and had a very distinctive style that blended human bodies and machines that he described as "Biomechanical"
    The hardware is combination of old and new, since progress has been staggered over past 3 years. The chassis is a Cooler Master 912 turned 90 degrees, and it's been 3 years since the ASUS P67 Sabertooth TUF shield was airbrushed with the Giger theme. The system has two separate liquid loops, the stainless tube reservoir is for the Radeon Crossfire GPU loop (2x 270x) with Hardware Labs Black Ice 360 GTX. This radiator is cooled with Panaflo L1A (38mm thick, 68.9 CFM. Max. noise: 30.0 dB-A). The 360 radiator grill is from Mnpctech.com with D5 pump and Alphacool top, the CPU is 3570, 3.4 GHz, with Swiftech's new Apogee XL waterblock. This is a great waterblock for $69.99. It comes with interchangeable illuminated face plate, which my good friend EEL Ambiense designed a replacement with a Giger-esque design. The cpu loop is PETG hardline tubing with EK 190 & DDC res / pump combo with Hardware Labs Black Ice 120 GTX radiator. Both loops are running distilled water. The system utilizes 32GB of their ADATA's new XPG V2 DDR3, and their Premirer Pro SP920 256GB SSD. The power supply is Corsair 750W. I'll be using this PC in the shop for video editing primarily.

  23. Upvote
    23RO_UK got a reaction from alpenwasser in Armor Revo Spartan Edition (Finished)   
    Not necessarily poor in my opinion mate, you just have your priorities right which is family comes first :) 
    Mods don't have to be Uber expensive to look great, yours does and trust me making an air cooled build look good requires more foresight, planning and skill than a watercooled build; with a watercooled build the eye is drawn to so many areas of the case that your not consciously taking everything in, with an air-cooled build the case is far less busy so you tend to scrutinise the details that much more.  
  24. Upvote
    23RO_UK reacted to Bill Owen in Rosewill's Legacy W1 mITX case looks promising   
    Fits largest ATX PSUs on market, and video cards up to 13" and you can mount 240/280 Radiator, same quality as more expensive Lian Li cases for only $119!

  25. Upvote
    23RO_UK reacted to Hanoverfist in Hanover's "Brandywine" Complete with Final Photo's   
    This is the Final post for this log.  I enjoyed making it here at the Zoo and Interaction here has been Really Nice.
    One of my Favorite Forums to build on.  Thanks to all members here for creating a Friendly Environment.  ;)
    Mostly took some shots outside so the Kandy could show off.  Not really too many interior shots due to the Underwhelming Hardware.
    Must remember,,, Its only a File Server :P   Thanks again to Lamptron for supporting me with this Project.















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