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mybadomen

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mybadomen last won the day on November 26 2012

mybadomen had the most liked content!

About mybadomen

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    lower branch munkey

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    http://mybadsplace.webs.com

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    Easr Coast ,USA
  • Interests
    Modding anything i get my hands on! Also love to Paint !

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  1. UPDATE, Long awaited i know but i'm doing the best i can with real life and all. This update is just simply some more work to the 5.25 bays which are still going to need allot of work to be completed. The idea behind this mod is i needed the EK CSQ Spin Res as high as possible as it will be feeding a second Primochill Phase II Reservoir i believe the D5 version but with the 2 huge rads there is tight space to get to Phase 2 res in just the right place to be fed by the EK bay res. Anyway here's the work that was done. As you can see there have been a couple other mods already done to this small 5.25 bay but in this mod i will be getting the EK spin res to fit in a slot that just isn't there yet. You can see me holding the Res where it needs to go in this photo. In this Photo i am showing the area i will be cutting out with a Dremel 3000 with a bigger arbor and 2" fiberglass reinforced cutting wheel. And here is what it looks like before cleaning it up and completing the other mods Here is showing how it will fit in leaving me plenty of room to hardline it. (Also remember it wont look like this as i am only working on the structure right now not the looks.) And here is where you can really see it starting to come together perfect. It now lines up perfect with the top of the Primochill Phase II res which is exactly what i was looking for. All bays will be filled and it will look totally different then but here is how the Res with sit sorta with the front on. Sorry bad photo.. Well not a Huge update guys but to me its big progress,I am sorry to those who follow my work and i haven't been Modding to much lately but that is all about to change shortly. I am moving across country and will have a huge shop in my new house just for modding so i am very excited about it. As soon as Legion & JukeBench are completed i will be moving right on to more new mods. Thanks for looking and the Support Guys and i promise i will be back full force very soon. Take Care, MybadOmen
  2. Will also take 2" reinforced cutoff wheels for metal. also it does angles as well.
  3. JukeBench Project is not a rushed project as its really cool and i love it.So i work on it a little here and there right now until i can focus 100% on it. Thanks FannBlade and here is a link for JukeBench : http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/91-dimastech-jukebench-mod-mybadomen/?gopid=579#entry579 Hope you like it so far. MybadOmen
  4. Update: Hiya Fellow Modders, Again another small update just so i don't forget to log it,Unfortunately i broke the blade on my ancient scroll saw and have to wait to find new blades which is a bummer at the moment. My scroll saw is ancient but was built amazing way back then compared to those they sell today as it not only holds the blade straight and from walking it also adjusts down to hold the part your cutting in place.It really is very nice even though its ancient. But ets move on to the Log now. First off for those Interested here is my Ancient Homecraft Scroll Saw: Ok and now for the beginning of the Mod i am working on right now. I start with some white acrylic like i used on the motherboard tray and mark it out to the size i need using a square to make sure its perfect (Paper on the acrylic is just the protective layer) : And now drawing out angles on both covers so hey are all perfectly even. And what they look like after cutting the edges : Next i drill 2 holes in each cover 1/4" from the edge on the covers and the motherboard tray.This will be to make them removable. And Finally here is what they will look like in place but they are shiny white acrylic with chrome knurled rounded nuts ,I still need to make the cutouts going on the covers but i want to keep that secret until that update. But for now enjoy these Photos: Also a sneak peak at the other Mods for the build i am working on a the same time.This will also be a complete update so just a sneak peek for now: Like i said it was a small update but i still don't want you guys to miss anything as i try to share he complete experience of the build process with you. Until next Update Take Care and Keep Modding, MybadOmen
  5. Wow Bill , its been a bit since i last checked up on this Mod and so much work done.. Coming out amazing as all your work does and i love those Revolver fittings and have them in my Legion Build. Really amazing how much you got done since i last checked in on this Log. Keep it up Bill and i cant wait to see whats next. MybadOmen
  6. Update! This is rather a small but pretty cool update and Mod but i figured i would add it now before i forget and it gets missed. A plain old SLI Bridge wasnt going to cut it after i got my 680's all dressed up so something a little more flashy that also gave thanks to NVIDIA for sponsoring me at the same time,So this is what i did. First i got a Sheet of Mod/Smart Chrome/Mirrored cast acrylic which is another company that sponsors my work. Here is that Sheet. Next i marked it out and to the size i needed and cut it. After cutting i then filed and sanded on a flat surface to get the cut edges straight as possible and rounded the corners a bit. So here is the Bridge i will be Modding as its boring as hell and the Raw cut piece of mirrored acrylic with the protective layer still on. Next i grab a 2 part epoxy that i use all the time. You can but this at about any hardware or auto store and it also comes in black and white as well but i prefer the clear and use it on all my mods and other projects. (Its super strong and dries fast) I also used a cheap brush with the bristles cut down and just a coffee can lid.Anything can be used instead. Next you want to make sure you have a 50:50 Mixture of the 2 part epoxy. Make sure to mix the epoxy very good as if you have any that didn't get mixed ,then it will not dry. Next i put some epoxy on the bridge more like in globs at different points of the bridge yet not to close. What you want to happen is to make sure you def have the epoxy touching both objects yet not to much that it all comes squirting out when you put the 2 objects together. Also after centering wait a few minutes and recenter if it moves within the first couple minutes. While that was Drying i went into Corel Draw and made an Nvidia logo that i liked and though would look good on the Bridge. Here is the Logo i came up with . Very simple yet very nice. (It wont be black ,black is just a base color i use for my plotter) And after running the new drawing through my Plotter, weeding out the vinyl i dont want and adding transfer tape this is what a Vinyl Decal looks like.Btw i was very pleased with the results Next i simply peeled off the backing of my new decal and centered it on the Bridge,Used a squeegee to make sure it stays forever ,And finally the Custom SLI Bridge is all ready to go. And last what it looks like in the build so far although there is still a ton of work to be done inside Legion still before it all comes together. I know it was a short update but i really hope you guys enjoyed it. Take Care and Keep on Modding, MybadOmen
  7. Thank You Guys ! Highly appreciated coming from you guys. I am honored and again TY. MybadOmen
  8. UPDATE ! Hiya guys, In this Update i am going to be Hard Tubing "LEGION" using Primochill's New Rigid Tubing and i was also lucky enough to get my hands on some of their New Nickel Revolver Series Rigid Fittings before they are released. I will also be showing you how to bend the tubing easily using the method that Primochill provides by using a Heat Gun and Primochill's Bending Silicone, A cool little hobby saw i have and a Homemade Jig and don't forget the Olive oil (Seriously). Ok Lets get started with this Update First off here is the 1/2"OD Primochill Clear Rigid Tubing i will be using (Comes in many colors but i wanted clear for this build) Type i am using in Legion: And other colors available: Also here are the New Revolver Series Rigid Fittings by Primochill in Nickel i will be using. Here i will try to explain a simple yet productive Bending Jig i made from an old piece of scrap wood in my backyard,A few sockets and nuts ,bolts and washers to fit through them all. Simply drill holes in a bunch of places using a Square ,Protractor or just place the holes any place you like to make whatever angles you want. Nice thing is you can always drill more holes later for even more bends. But figured this was a simple design anyone could build so i went this route rather then pulling welders etc out. Next here is the silicone that is a must for making crazy bends and Primochill sells it through most resellers (It comes in different colors either Orange/Black/Grey) but its all the same thing.And here is where you need the olive oil as well and some 1 dollar cheap gardening gloves so you don't burn your hands. Simply Dip the tip of the silicone into the olive oil and slide it into the Rigid Tube paste the point you want to bend. (To get the little oil out of the tube after simply use Dawn dish soap) Now that the tube is ready with Silicone inside and gloves on use your Heat gun and slowly heat in the area you want to bend until the tubing becomes almost as flexible as the Silicone itself . It really is amazing how flexible it gets. Also at this point when bending dont push hard against anything or it will leave a mark in the Rigid when cooled .Basically the trick is slow and easy the whole time. And here is an example of the bends and don't worry about the excess as we will be cutting that to the correct size soon. And the 2 Bends i need for the CPU to Ram blocks: Now its time for Cutting and you can use just about any kind of saw to cut the Rigid .I have the ultimate little saw that is perfect for it that can be bought at Harbor Frieght for short money but i have used Dremels and Scroll saws as well.Here are a few option but there are many more. My Favorite saw for Rigid: Also scroll saw works great , just file and sand the edge after: And of course what most will have handy is a Dremel and a file or some sandpaper .You can achieve that same results with. Ok now that i Bent and cut the Rigid to size i start assembling it and remember these are compression fittings so they hold in very tight with no worries at all. And now for the other Ram Block: And after more Bending etc and also don't get me wrong i had some scrap from trying different routing but here is what i ended up with so far. Well that's all i have for today guys i hope you like the Update, I still have some really cool updates coming when it gets to working on the Theme of the build so i am very excited now and hope you guys are as well. Take Care all and Keep Modding, MybadOmen
  9. Update! This Update i would like to Thank Crucial for coming on board and helping to make this build possible by their Sponsorship of 2 Crucial 240Gig SSD's for me to Mod and run Raid 0 Striped in Legion for superior performance when shes finished.I have always loved Crucial Products not only for their blazing fast yet reliable SSD's but also for their Great Ram! (Also like to Thank Primochill for use of their New Wet Bench to Benchmark these Drives for you guys. Huge Thanks to Crucial ! http://www.crucial.com/store/ssd.aspx First off i would like to say the M500 Series SSD's are just as fast as they say they are but i find it incredible you can get from 120Gig drive all the way to a 940Gig! And at a reasonable price to top it all off. Anyway my point isn't to advertize the SSD's but rather to show you them and the benchmarks and explain how i will be Modding them. (As much as possible at this point in time) Here is What Arrived from Crucial for the Legion Build: Here is the Bench i will be Benchmarking on. First i will show you the drives ,then give you the bench Specs and lastly the benchmarks. Opening the M500 box you dont find much beyond a Quality SSD: And a spacer to make the 7mm SSD fit in a 9.5mm space. And that's about it for whats in the box. (A sticker would of been cool but performance and reliable are all i care about) Next i mount the M500's on the Wet Bench and get ready to start benching: And here is the setup i will be using for these benchmarks today: I have no need to drop GPU's on the setup and i swapped the ram out from whats in the photo.Which i will explain in the Specs. Test Bench Setup for the Crucial M500 Benchmarks Running Raid 0 Striped. Test Bench: Primochill Wet Bench white/white Cpu: Intel i5-4670k @ 4.5Ghz 1.34v Motherboard: MSI G-45 Z87 Gaming Board 1150 Socket. Memory: 8 Gigs Xtreme Team 2400 Mhz C10 Drives: 2 Crucial 240Gig M500 SSD's Raid 0 Striped. PSU: Cougar 850 watt Random Watercooling And to save on Picture space i added all Benchmarks in 1 Photo: As you can See in Atto the drives easy Break 1,000Mbs Read and all other tests show the drives to be pretty much close across the boards just showing that these drives do perform extremely well.Also installing in Windows 7 64bit was a walk in the park. For any of those Interested i also added the Windows Experience Index score for you as well: The Modding Part: These drives will be Modded in White and Chrome yet still carry the Crucial M500 name on them when done. Thank You for watching this update and the benchmarks and keep an eye out for the actual Modding of the SSD's to come shortly. MybadOmen
  10. Tiny Update: Not a Huge update but just something i am happy to have been able to get the parts to make. Here is the Custom Primochill Vortex Flow Indicator going into Legion. Like i said nothing huge its just a stock Vortex that i had the company make me a chrome/mirrored wheel and new white back plate for.Also if you look close you can see Primochill's brand new Revolver series Rigid Compression fittings which i had the pleasure of getting first before they were sent out to resellers.Huge Thanks to Primochill for their support on this build and hope you guys like this tiny update. Just had to share it as i think it came out beautiful. (Bunch of different views) Hope you like the Photos and i will post some more soon as i got a bunch of new parts to get some more sleeving and making cables up done. Plus some other modding materials i want to keep secret until those updates come.Seeing camp is over in a couple weeks for the winter you'll be seeing allot more of me soon. Take Care My Friends and Keep Modding, MybadOmen
  11. UPDATE! After a while i realised something about the build didnt seem right to me and i couldnt put my finger on it but it drove me crazy.So what did i do? I tore it all the way back down again including the Rivets. First off i decided there wasn't enough white inside for what i am aiming for yet i didnt want any white paint on the back off the case or anywhere on the ouside besides where i intend to put it. So first step was wash the whole case (In my Tub) with dawn Dish soap then put it outside to dry in the sun. I thing sanded the whole inside by hand with a 500 grit sandpaper since the paint i will be using has its own built in adhesion promoter i don't have to go down any more course then 500.I then washed the case again and set it out to dry again. Here is what i had after tearing Legion back down: First thing i did was used some nice Vinyl masking i have that works way better then masking tape for getting in tight places etc. After using a squeegee and making sure no paint could get through the masking in the back i finished masking the rest i didn't want painted. Next for Painting the Case, I said earlier in the logs i would not be using my Paint guns on this build as there really is no need to so i will be using Krylon Fusion White paint which is the only paint i now use when not using my guns. After Painting you can see how good of a job the Vinyl Masking does: I also drilled the rivets out on the back motherboard tray and the PCI I/O Shield holder sorry forgot the name right this second but the part you screw your GPUs etc to on the motherboard and the I/O cover sits in.Anyway i painted that as well and its time to put it back in without scratching any paint. To do that simply put masking tape over the tip of your Rivet gun and poke a hole through to place the rivets. This way if you slip you are allot more protected but still try not to slip ..lol Next i was weary about messing with my Motherboard and Voiding the warranty as almost everything i have the warranties have been voided and these Motherboards are not cheap. But i said screw it and started to work on the Motherboard. Removing the Mosfet Heatsink: (and as you can see the EK block bracket has been painted white as well) Naked Mosfets: Now prepping for Paint (all i did here was washed them down good with a 70% alcohol and masked what i didnt want painted off) And now for the Chipset Cooler: and of course since this is Pron , the naked Chipset of the Asus Rampage Formula IV X79: Same goes for the Chip set cooler but first i had to get the Asus aluminum plate off which sorry i forgot to take photos of. But this is how i did it. To remove the Asus Plate i used a heat gun and a razor hobby knife and carefully heated the plates while sliding the knife under the glue itself to try to keep the glue intact.You have to be very careful and take your time or you will bend the Aluminum plate.pretty basic though really if you ever modded anything. Here is the Chipset cooler all masked yet again only where i want the paint is showing. You might be asking what i painted the mosfet and chipset cooler with as i seen the question asked many times before, Or you might be asking if it will lose its heat transferring capabilities do to the paint. The answer is will i with this method no. But yes paint can def interfere with cooling capabilities of a heat sink if 1) Its the wrong kind of paint 2) Its sprayed to thick 3) I also believe a shiny gloss paint can also have a bad effect even if only be a few degrees tops. Anyway here is what i used and why. Krylon High Heat & Radiator Paint is the paint i chose for this project and the reason was because its semi flat but still looks bright white even using very little paint on the coolers, Plus it can run 600 degrees F forever of it can even handle temps of 1200F for short periods of time. So to me it was a no brainer and the perfect paint for the job. oh yeah and one other reason is a non gloss paint tends to breathe better or be more porous then a gloss would. Ok back to the photos :) Painted Mosfet cooler: Painted Chipset Cooler: Motherboard back together: (used ICDiamond for TIM if anyone was wondering) And some Final shots of what i have done so far: Hope you guys like it still tons to do but im starting to be happier with it now. Take Care and keep Modding guys, MybadOmen
  12. Looking really nice Andrew! Great work and cant wait to see it complete.
  13. Hello ModZoo Members,Admins and those just passing through, I like to take a few seconds to Thank all the admins for opening this forum where a Modder can feel comfortable and at home, I also like to give Huge thanks to anyone that came to view my Logs , This one of the others and of course a Huge Thank You to Bill who Innovates and Inspires all of us. So to each and every one of you Thank you for your Support and Kind words, Take Care MybadOmen
  14. UPDATE! And yet another Quick Update,This update is Painting the CSQ Black GTX680 Ram Plates and my EK XTX360 and XTX240 White to match the Theme i am aiming for in the end. Here are the Stock CSQ Ram plates i will be starting with. Next i mask off the nice Silver EK logo (or they can be purchased from EK if you prefer to replace them but i will just mask them. For Prep work since i will be using Fusion paint by Krylon i will only be washing the Plates in water with dawn dish soap to remove any oils that might be on the plates then lights sanding them with a fine wet/dry sandpaper (after masking the Logo) and least before painting i will wipe it down with 70% Alcohol and Tak ragging it to make sure there is no dust. The only Paint i use unless using my real paint guns (Great on Plastic,Metal you name it) And the Ram Plates after paint. I applied a light Tack coat first then since its fast dry paint applied another even coat every 5 minutes roughly till got the desired finish. And as you can see they look Very Sexy in white and will go perfect with the white/Black/Chrome theme i am aiming for (Might bring another color in but not sure yet) Next for the Rads. Both were dont the same way using the same prep method as above.Only difference is i used my G1/4 plugs i have just for painting to keep paint out of the Rad and threads and i masked all the fins on both sides of the Rad which you will see why in a second. Next for the painting again using the same method as i used on the Ram Plates. One thing i forgot to mention is always warm a can of spray paint in some warm water it will spray much nicer and give a more professional look when done. Here is where i said it makes a big difference masking the fins and threads, It gives a very professional look ,basically like it was sold this way.Not to mention no restriction of airflow painting the fins. There will be 4 Enermax Cluster Fans on the XTX240 and 6 on the XTX360 but other then that you cant tell me that don't look sweet,especially when all the fans are lit up white as well. And dont mind the build as its a bit messy because there is still much to do but you can get the idea how much nicer its looking just by changing thye color of a few parts here and their to fit the Theme. Hope you Enjoyed the Update and again Thank You Enermax,Nvidia and EK for helping to make this and other updates possible. Keep watching More Updates Soon ! MybadOmen
  15. UPDATE! Just a couple of updates and i would like to give a huge Thank you to EKWB and AVEXIR for their support in this build making this update and others even possible. First Update/Guide is Installing EK's new Universal Dominator Ram Adapters and X2 CSQ Ram Blocks to a set of AVEXIR Core Series 2400mhz C10 Ram the good stuff (Hynix) : To start here is what the AVEXIR Core Series Ram looks like and it lights Up with flashing Blue lights which i am not fond of and def don't fit this build.(But they would be sweet in a Blue themed build) The nice Hynix set not the Elpida's they also come in Ok Lets get started with the Update/Guide Now and this should apply for any ram you decide to use: First use a blow dryer or Heatgun to free the thermal pads holding the stock heat sinks on the Ram,Be careful with using to much heat or you will damage the ram but use enough that you don't ruin the stock heatsinks in case you want to re install them some day. After heating Slightly pull apart as shown in the Photo, if its not coming apart add more heat but be gentle and patient: Here you will see with the AVEXIR Core series a light bar will also come out and you can see the Thermal Pad that holds the Heatsinks on (Its tough stuff to get off) And the Ram now Naked ,Sexy :) Next we open the EK Ram Dominator Module Adapter Kit and here are the contents: 4 nice looking EK Heatsinks with the EK logo , 4 strips of Thermal Pads, All screws needed to Install and as always they supply the tools and last is the directions which if following this guide you dont really need :) Ok next step is to cut the Thermal Pads to fit over each Ram Module (Some people stretch the thermal Pads but i prefer to cut them) Now after all the thermal pads are applied (AND DO NOT FORGET TO REMOVE PLASTIC ON BOTH SIDES OF THE THERMAL PADS) Sorry for caps but it is that important. After all pads are on and plastic is removed Place the ram onto the EK heatsink as shown,Tight to the top and centered. Next simply Put the top on carefully without moving the pads around and install the correct 3 screws to secure the ram into the Heatsinks. And its that simple you now have any ram ready to use EK's Dominator Series Blocks Next i will just show quickly as its pretty simple to actually install the blocks to the ram.Here is the Box and the Contents when buying a block. This particular block is the CSQ Nickel Plexi x2 block (Meaning its for 2 sticks that are sitting in slots right next to each other) If running 2 sticks in Dual channel on an 1155 socket board etc you would want the X4 block as you would have spacing between the ram slots. Simply Apply the enclosed Thermal Pad to the Block (remembering to remove both plastics) Install your Ram onto your Motherboard before putting the block on the ram and then use the enclosed hardware and tool to secure the blocks to the ram. And when done the blocks really give a great result for one in looks and 2 they are great for when going for very high Ram clocks with high voltages. Hope you enjoyed this Update/Guide and more to come soon and again Thank You EKWB and AVEXIR. MybadOmen
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