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About alpenwasser

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  • Birthday 11/10/85

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    all things mechanical, PC's, Unixes, hiking, camping, history, paleontology, biology, movies
  1. Thanks! Yeah, especially with the tubing and the fittings I've had that thought too. Thanks! And yup, reaaallly happy to finally have it up and running in a presentable state. And hey, maybe, at some point, in some version of somebody's reality, I will actually be able to still do the copper tubing. :D If not in this build, then in another one. And yup, it really is almost a puzzle at this point. Thanks, much appreciated! :)
  2. One Last Time - Black Cherry

    daayumn, that's some serious bad luck. :( Loving the build though.
  3. [Build Log] MODZERO FORTY - HEXGEAR R40

    I'm really digging the look of that res+pump assembly I must say. :)
  4. *presses page refresh* "Woah, something happened! Magic!" :D
  5. Ah, I see. I'm not actually sure what our standard copper tubing diameters are here (i.e. what's usually used for plumbing). I saw two sizes when I last went to my local DIY shop, but didn't check the diameters. Smaller one might have been something like 8/6 mm, bigger one maybe 12/10 or something like that, though take that with a grain of salt. :D
  6. Yeah, 12 mm ID works very well. The tapping drill size for G1/4" is 11.80 mm, so 12 mm works out very nicely and for the purposes of water cooling those missing 0.2 mm are probably not going to matter much (at least not that I could see in my tests). 14/12 might be a bit tricky, not sure. The major diameter of G1/4" is 13.157 mm, which is only 0.843 mm less than the OD of that tubing, and would leave you with a wall strength of 0.4215 mm at the thinnest places (approx. 0.017"). Well, probably a bit less even, since I reckon the inner thread of the tubing will have a bit of wiggle room on top of the major diameter, otherwise things would probably get stuck when you try to screw something into that thread (it's not like we're talking about seriously precise set screws here). Might be a bit on the thin side, though I haven't tested it I will admit. Oh, the data for G1/4" I have from wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_Standard_Pipe If you can find 16/12 tubing over here, you should able be able to find 14/12. Even the 16/12 isn't exactly standard issue, had to go to a special metal dealer for that, can't get it on my local DIY store. Also not exactly cheap, 70 CHF for 2 meters (~70 USD these days). :D
  7. Thanks guys, much appreciated! :) As a small amendment: This is the concept for the copper tubing I came up with. Take a 16/12 tube, cut a G1/4" thread into it, screw in the fitting of your choice. I actually think you did a video on the idea with acrylic or PETG tubing, not sure anymore, so the idea seems to have been thought of by at least two parties independently. :D Anyway, these are from a test I did: What I like about the concept is that you don't get any bulky compression-like fittings, the tubes are almost flush with the fitting's outer edge. Downside is that you can't really bend 16/12 tubing, so you need an angle for every curve you want to make, which means lots of dual-rotary, dual-male threaded fittings. I've only found those I need from Bitspower, which is why this would be so very expensive. Still, some day maybe...
  8. [AirbrushMod] Red Tails

    Yes, I shall follow this along. :)
  9. Nanolith

    Really liking the font logo with the lighting, nice! :)
  10. Assembled! Finally managed to put it together. :) Hit a bit of a snag with my plan for the power delivery. I have a plug at the back of the case to which I've soldered a cable which then goes to the PSU via a 90-degree angled plug. Unfortunately the plug I'd bought turned out to be a bit too big and I could no longer mount the radiator. I could have raised the PSU, but don't have the correct standoffs at hand, so instead I got very lucky and found a molded 90-degree angled connector which is more compact. It goes to the other side, but the cable can be bent around in a generous loop and it sill works. Disaster averted. (click image for full res) (click image for full res) (click image for full res) The drain is the usual principle: T-connector, ball valve. However, in order to be able to hide it away inside the case, the lever on the valve actually needs to be in the open position, hence the additional stop fitting on the valve. Draining the system works pretty well, I get most of the fluid out (it uses about 1.5 litres it seems. ) (click image for full res) (click image for full res) The process for closing it all up is a bit cumbersome, but such is life. I have to unmount the other PSU cover in order to be able to get the plug's side's cover in, then remount them both. I've mounted some additional thumb screws to the covers to that I can hold on to them while bolting them to the case. Works pretty well. (click image for full res) (click image for full res) The passthrough from the pump to the back side and the bottom radiators. The thing with a wire is an inline temperature sensor. (click image for full res) From the bottom radiators we go up to the top radiator via a passthrough fitting. I had to enlargen the hole in the case by about 20 mm in one direction so that it all fits, otherwise the fitting on the radiator's side collides with the rad. (click image for full res) (click image for full res) To give you an impression of the trouble I go through for some of the pics, this is the lighting setup for the picture above. :D (click image for full res) Tethering the Canon 600D (Rebel T3 or something like that for those who have those model numbers) to my laptop (Linux) via Darktable works very nicely, pretty comfy to work with. :) (click image for full res) (click image for full res) (click image for full res) The reservoir has an inline tube to bring the feed below the coolant's surface level. (click image for full res) (click image for full res) (click image for full res) I'm not yet happy with how this looks, will be redoing the loop at least in this area. But I need to ponder a bit first on how to go about this, and now that it's up and running and the semester is about to start again I'm not in too big of a hurry. (click image for full res) (click image for full res) (click image for full res) The black painted brackets for the GPUs. 780 is the top one, Titan on the bottom. (click image for full res) The fan controller, still with the copper plate from way back when, although it has a bit of oxidation by now. I tried clearcoating it to protect it from oxidation, but it didn't look right no matter what I tried so eventually I took the coat off again and just accepted the copper as it is. :) (click image for full res) (click image for full res) The cabling behind the fan controller. Not too tidy I will admit. :D (click image for full res) The bottom fans are connected to a single channel on the fan controller. One of the fans has had its tach wire soldered to one of the six pin connector's pins so that I can get an rpm reading. (click image for full res) Bottom fans with a studio light on the other side of the case: (click image for full res) Some overview shots: (click image for full res) (click image for full res) (click image for full res) (click image for full res) And with the rest of the computers in our household (except the server, which I couldn't take down for the pic). (click image for full res) I'll be doing some temp measurements in the next few days and will give an update on that when I have the data. So long, -aw
  11. Phanteks Enthoo Luxe Case Mod

    I am really digging the jet engine blade look on those fans. Rest ain't too bad either. ;)
  12. Shinai - Antec P380 casemod [continued tweaking]

    Yay, progress! Liking that mesh.
  13. Haha, thanks! Getting off all the O rings for painting was a bit of a finicky undertaking, and drilling the holes into the wood for the fittings took a while too, but I felt that if I'm spending a significant part of my money on this I might as well do it right. And yeah, chatting about our builds is why we're here (well, at least part of it), so thanks for that too. :D He, thanks Bill, much appreciated. That might be because the paint is actual copper. Copper particles in an expoxy matrix, that is. When you have it next to an unpolished piece of copper, they really look about identical. The difference between the paint and proper piece of copper comes when you polish the copper. The tone of color will then shift in the copper piece, whereas the paint can get glossy if you clearcoat it, but you can't get it to change its color tone (since the small particles aren't just magically going to align to reflect the light in the same way and form a perfect surface). In case anyone's interested, this is the paint: http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B000QB30FA/ref=s9_simh_gw_p60_d4_i1?pf_rd_m=A3JWKAKR8XB7XF&pf_rd_s=desktop-2&pf_rd_r=0P9X5ZK93J98F8NJ394V&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=585296387&pf_rd_i=desktop This might also be an alternative: http://www.amazon.de/1x-400ml-Wekem-Kupfer-Spray-WS84/dp/B0048SS5LG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1441360220&sr=8-1&keywords=kupferspray+wekem (sorry, couldn't find it on amazon.com, but this should get those who are interested started)
  14. Finally, Progress! Yay, it's not dead yet! Basically, the build has been stuck on pause for almost two years simply because life kept interfering, primarily with my finances. I had planned to finally do the copper tubing this summer, but then I needed to replace my laptop this spring and had some HDD issues in my server, so again the funds just weren't there to do the copper loop the way I had intended. So I decided to switch plans and do it with Norprene for the time being. I'll hopefully be alive for a while yet, so at some point in some build I should be able to still realise the concept I've made for the copper tubing, but for the time being, Norprene it is. I didn't really feel like going with acrylic since pretty much everyone is doing that these days (not that it's bad), plus I quite like the look of Norprene and think it fits nicely with the theme of the build. Also, I finally made some cables for the second GPU (which I'd bought last August actually, but couldn't use because I didn't have time to make the cables :D ). Anyway, first things first: Got myself some pretty affordable silver fittings, painted them in copper. Pics! Since I needed to deblock my CPUs, took a look at the thermal paste imprints: (click image for full res) (click image for full res) Fittings: (click image for full res) (click image for full res) Also got myself two active back plates from AC. The second GPU is actually a 780, not a Titan (no need for SLI in BOINC), so the active cooling is pretty pointless, but I went for symmetry. As usual for AC, there's quite a bit of steel. Copperised that too. (click image for full res) (click image for full res) (click image for full res) Finally, the current loop layout on the motherboard tray. The entire thing as it is here weighs in at a lofty 9.3 kg (that's about 20 lbs for the imperialists :P ). (click image for full res) (click image for full res) (click image for full res) (click image for full res) (click image for full res) (click image for full res) (click image for full res) Also, painted the outside of the Raystorm brackets with copper for a bit of added coppery contrast: (click image for full res) That's it for now. Should have pics of the rig in an assembled state in the not too distant future. It might not be what I originally envisioned, but I'm very happy to get this into a presentable state finally. :)
  15. Yeah, totally. I might not need it (for the time being), but I think it's an awesome idea, most definitely! :)