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Everything posted by alpenwasser

  1. Introductory Blabla When doing research for my builds earlier this year, I started to look into alternatives to zip ties. I absolutely love good cable management, but I am not fond of zip ties. They don't look nice IMO (personal taste, I will admit), they can damage a wire's mantle or the sleeving because it is very easy to overtighten them, and they are incredibly wasteful since most of the time a big chunk of plastic is cut off and discarded. After lots of googling I eventually stumbled upon the precursor to zip ties: Cable lacing. It is still used in quite a few places from what I've read, for example NASA lace the wires and cables on their spacecraft and you may still learn how to do this if you work in the telecom industry. I've also found a US Navy manual on cable lacing techniques, so presumably it's also used in marine environments, at least to some extent. In any case, it took me a while to find suitable information on this, but eventually I found a NASA manual, that Navy handbook I mentioned, a youtube vid and a few other tidbits here and there, and I pieced together a technique which works for me when it comes to managing my PC cables. Part 1 - Lacing a Double Layer Cable The audio is a bit on the low side, sorry about that, but if you turn up the volume it should still work for you I hope. I'm still very inexperienced when it comes to vid processing, but you live and learn. :) To give you a better impression of how this can look in the end, here is a shot of the main wire loom for HELIOS, my current passion project: And mounted into the build: Part 2 - Lacing Small Wire Bundles I would have really liked to do a vid on this as well, but at the moment time just doesn't permit that, so here it is in picture form. I hope it is somewhat understandable nonetheless, otherwise feel free to ask for clarifications. I didn't actually know what this knot was called until I did some digging and found out that it's a sort of whipping knot, to be specific the common whipping if I have understood things correctly. It's not very complicated but not necessarily obvious just from looking at it. Also, it's the same knot I'm using to make the sleeving ends on HELIOS' wires: You can find a tutorial for a variation of this knot here. However, since I only found that website after already having taken my pics I thought I might as well upload them anyway. ;) So, here we go: A loop... ...and around the bundle which you wish to lace, over the original loop. Press down where the two ends cross and hold tight. Then wind the red end around the bundle as many times as you deem necessary. I usually do at least a dozen loops. Thread the end which you have been looping around the bundle through the loop from step one on the side towards which you were looping (it sounds a lot more convoluted than it actually is, just put the end, now yellow, through the original loop). Pull on the other end... ...and tighten the original loop until it slips under all those loops you did around the bundle. Then pull on both ends and tighten things down, which should give you this result. Cut off the ends as close to the package as possible and you have a clean looking knot. :) I hope this is somewhat understandable together with the additional websites, otherwise don't hesitate to ask for clarifications. :) It's really not a very complex knot, just a non-obvious one IME. I hope I've put this in the right forum section, and wish you happy lacing adventures. :) Cheers, -aw
  2. Thanks! Yeah, especially with the tubing and the fittings I've had that thought too. Thanks! And yup, reaaallly happy to finally have it up and running in a presentable state. And hey, maybe, at some point, in some version of somebody's reality, I will actually be able to still do the copper tubing. :D If not in this build, then in another one. And yup, it really is almost a puzzle at this point. Thanks, much appreciated! :)
  3. Table of Contents 01. 2013-APR-27: The SMH10 - Unpacking and Assembly 02. 2013-APR-28: Radiators 03. 2013-APR-29: Making a New Workshop 04. 2013-APR-29: My Old Rig 05. 2013-APR-30: The Raystorm CPU Blocks 06. 2013-JUN-16: PSU & Pump Mount, Making the 24 Pin Cable 07. 2013-JUN-21: Small Cable Progress Update 08. 2013-JUN-21: Cable Lacing Tutorial 09. 2013-JUL-06: What 40~50 Hours of Cabling Will Get You... 10. 2013-JUL-18: Various Smaller Bits 11. 2013-JUL-22: A Copper Face Plate for the Lamptron FC5V2 12. 2013-JUL-25: The Aqua Computer Aqualis Copper Edition 13. 2013-SEP-14: Prototype: The Bitfenix Spectre Pro Copper Edition 14. 2013-SEP-15: Painting the M/B Block Screws 15. 2013-SEP-20: Fan Disassembly: How-To 16. 2013-SEP-22: Quick Status Shot of the Unfinished Rig 17. 2013-SEP-23: The Bitfenix Spectre Pro Copper Edition (cont.) 18. 2013-OCT-01: Colour-Coordinating the Kryographics Titan 19. 2013-OCT-08: Loop Planning 20. 2013-OCT-09: Colour-Coordinating the Raystorms 21. 2013-OCT-13: Deciding on a Backplate, Small M/B Teaser 22. 2013-OCT-13: The EVGA SR-2 Black Edition 23. 2013-OCT-28: Requesting Opinions on Fittings 24. 2013-OCT-29: Colour-Coordinating the RAM Blocks] 25. 2015-SEP-03: Progress! Motherboard Looped Up 26. 2015-SEP-06: Assembled! Current Status Introductory Blabla Yes, yes, the SR-2 is old news by now, I'm well aware of that. However, it was not yet when I started this build in early summer 2011. My health troubles intervened soon after that (again) and put a stop to my plans. Since I really did not want to sell the hardware I had already bought (the SR-2 among it), I decided to stick it out and finish it when my health and funds allowed for it. Originally, this was going to be a scratchbuild, but the nice thing about having such a long delay is that Caselabs have brought out pretty much the perfect case in the meantime. My own box would have been pretty similar in its layout to the SMH10 and also made from Alu. But buying all the raw materials and the tools necessary to do it properly would have probably cost me more than the SMH10, so I just decided to go for that. The Name Hysterical Excess Labouring Independently Of Sanity, aka HELIOS. Because: It's been going on for more than two years. And I am definitely starting to question my sanity . Also: I've been naming my PC's after Greek deities since forever. The first PC I built was an AMD Thunderbird C 1.4 GHz machine back in 2001, which lasted me for a few years, and it was called Helios (I use the name as the PC's host name within our network, for those wondering what practical use it has). It died a fiery death at the hands of a water cooling accident: Using the Eheim 1048 I had been befallen by the rattling pump wheel. Naturally, I wrapped some tape around the axle which solved that problem. Unfortunately, the tape became brittle over time and eventually, a piece of tape broke off and clogged the loop. Killed the flow, cooked the CPU (no overheating protection back then). I'll see if I can get some pics of the damage to the Cuplex and post them later. After that, I took that name out of use, until now. It's time for a revival. Oh, the original HELIOS was name after the A.I. from the original Deus Ex game, but I've always had an interest in Greek mythology, so it was a nice fit. The Inspiration Originally, PrometheusCU. I'm sure many of you are familiar with it, and those who aren't: Go read it, now! I'll wait a few days. Sadly, its creator passed on and never finished it (it did go to a friend of his, but no activity since last summer, at least not in the original thread ). I don't nearly have his set of skills and/or tools, but that doesn't change the inspiration part. Also, B NEGATIVE's SR-2 rig. The Main Hardware As a side note: The computing power of this rig will mostly go to BOINC (I might use it for gaming from time to time, we shall see). If F@H ever get their stuff together with regards to GPU folding on Linux (highly unlikely ), I might switch over to folding again, since I'd been doing that for about 18 months before switching to BOINC due to the GPU problem (and a few other niggles I have with the project's behavior towards its donors). The O/S will most likely be Arch Linux (since I've been using that for about two and a half years now and am quite comfortable with it), or if I feel experimental Gentoo or even FreeBSD. Certainly not Windows. I need my xterm and Z shell and UNIX utilities. If the Aquacomputer's Aquasuite ever gets useable on Linux I might get an Aquaero, but for now the Lamptron controller will do just fine. Anyway: M/B: EVGA SR-2CPU: 2 x Xeon x5680 (not ES, normal retail version, got them for half price on eBay, brand spanking new) RAM: 24 GB of Corsair Dominator 1866GPU: 1 x Geforce Titan (should do well at computing)SSD: Intel 520 120 GBHDD: TBDPSU: Enermax Platimax 1200 W (don't need that much power, but the weaker models aren't fully modular, more reasoning for my decision later on) Case: Caselabs SMH10, reverse ATX layout, obviously in blackOriginally, I was going to use a Koolance 1.7 kW liquid cooled PSU, but it turned out to be incompatible with the SR-2. I'm not kidding, the PSU is fine, as was the M/B last time I powered it on with a different PSU. Somehow, the initial self-check of the SR-2 is not liked at all by the Koolance PSU, so I've had to get a different one. W/C Parts Well, of course it will be under water! . In fact, all my PC's for the last 12 years have had to get wet. CPU blocks: XSPC Raystorm Copper EditionGPU block: Aquacomputer Titan block in copper with the acrylic top.RAM blocks: Alphacool Dominator water blocks in copper with plexi tops. Yes, cooling your RAM with water is absolutely unnecessary. I just like how it looks. M/B block: MIPS SR-2 block in Acetal/CopperPumps: 2 x Aquacomputer D5 without AquabusPump tops: 2 x Alphacool D5 pump tops in AcetalReservoir: Aquacomputer Aqualis ProRadiators: 2 x Hardware Labs SR-1 560 + 1 x Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 480 (that's the equivalent of ~14.89 120mm single radiators, for those wondering). Fans: For the moment, Bitfenix Spectre Pros in 140 mm and 120 mm, respectively. Some people seem to be having bearing troubles, if that happens, I will probably go for some Noctuas or something else. Fan and Pump Controller: Lamptron FC5v2Flow Meter and Display: Koolance INS-FM17N with the DCB-FM01 as its display. I know flow monitoring isn't really necessary, and the Koolance flow meter doesn't really look good. This is mostly about satisfying my curiosity, and there's enough places in the SMH10 where I can hide the display and the sensor so that it doesn't uglify the build. Fittings: Alphacool shiny copperTubing: 16/12 mm copper tubingSo, for those brave few who have not been deterred by my introductory novella, let's get started :)
  4. alpenwasser

    One Last Time - Black Cherry

    daayumn, that's some serious bad luck. :( Loving the build though.
  5. alpenwasser


    I'm really digging the look of that res+pump assembly I must say. :)
  6. *presses page refresh* "Woah, something happened! Magic!" :D
  7. Ah, I see. I'm not actually sure what our standard copper tubing diameters are here (i.e. what's usually used for plumbing). I saw two sizes when I last went to my local DIY shop, but didn't check the diameters. Smaller one might have been something like 8/6 mm, bigger one maybe 12/10 or something like that, though take that with a grain of salt. :D
  8. Yeah, 12 mm ID works very well. The tapping drill size for G1/4" is 11.80 mm, so 12 mm works out very nicely and for the purposes of water cooling those missing 0.2 mm are probably not going to matter much (at least not that I could see in my tests). 14/12 might be a bit tricky, not sure. The major diameter of G1/4" is 13.157 mm, which is only 0.843 mm less than the OD of that tubing, and would leave you with a wall strength of 0.4215 mm at the thinnest places (approx. 0.017"). Well, probably a bit less even, since I reckon the inner thread of the tubing will have a bit of wiggle room on top of the major diameter, otherwise things would probably get stuck when you try to screw something into that thread (it's not like we're talking about seriously precise set screws here). Might be a bit on the thin side, though I haven't tested it I will admit. Oh, the data for G1/4" I have from wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_Standard_Pipe If you can find 16/12 tubing over here, you should able be able to find 14/12. Even the 16/12 isn't exactly standard issue, had to go to a special metal dealer for that, can't get it on my local DIY store. Also not exactly cheap, 70 CHF for 2 meters (~70 USD these days). :D
  9. Thanks guys, much appreciated! :) As a small amendment: This is the concept for the copper tubing I came up with. Take a 16/12 tube, cut a G1/4" thread into it, screw in the fitting of your choice. I actually think you did a video on the idea with acrylic or PETG tubing, not sure anymore, so the idea seems to have been thought of by at least two parties independently. :D Anyway, these are from a test I did: What I like about the concept is that you don't get any bulky compression-like fittings, the tubes are almost flush with the fitting's outer edge. Downside is that you can't really bend 16/12 tubing, so you need an angle for every curve you want to make, which means lots of dual-rotary, dual-male threaded fittings. I've only found those I need from Bitspower, which is why this would be so very expensive. Still, some day maybe...
  10. alpenwasser

    [AirbrushMod] Red Tails

    Yes, I shall follow this along. :)
  11. alpenwasser


    Really liking the font logo with the lighting, nice! :)
  12. Assembled! Finally managed to put it together. :) Hit a bit of a snag with my plan for the power delivery. I have a plug at the back of the case to which I've soldered a cable which then goes to the PSU via a 90-degree angled plug. Unfortunately the plug I'd bought turned out to be a bit too big and I could no longer mount the radiator. I could have raised the PSU, but don't have the correct standoffs at hand, so instead I got very lucky and found a molded 90-degree angled connector which is more compact. It goes to the other side, but the cable can be bent around in a generous loop and it sill works. Disaster averted. (click image for full res) (click image for full res) (click image for full res) The drain is the usual principle: T-connector, ball valve. However, in order to be able to hide it away inside the case, the lever on the valve actually needs to be in the open position, hence the additional stop fitting on the valve. Draining the system works pretty well, I get most of the fluid out (it uses about 1.5 litres it seems. ) (click image for full res) (click image for full res) The process for closing it all up is a bit cumbersome, but such is life. I have to unmount the other PSU cover in order to be able to get the plug's side's cover in, then remount them both. I've mounted some additional thumb screws to the covers to that I can hold on to them while bolting them to the case. Works pretty well. (click image for full res) (click image for full res) The passthrough from the pump to the back side and the bottom radiators. The thing with a wire is an inline temperature sensor. (click image for full res) From the bottom radiators we go up to the top radiator via a passthrough fitting. I had to enlargen the hole in the case by about 20 mm in one direction so that it all fits, otherwise the fitting on the radiator's side collides with the rad. (click image for full res) (click image for full res) To give you an impression of the trouble I go through for some of the pics, this is the lighting setup for the picture above. :D (click image for full res) Tethering the Canon 600D (Rebel T3 or something like that for those who have those model numbers) to my laptop (Linux) via Darktable works very nicely, pretty comfy to work with. :) (click image for full res) (click image for full res) (click image for full res) The reservoir has an inline tube to bring the feed below the coolant's surface level. (click image for full res) (click image for full res) (click image for full res) I'm not yet happy with how this looks, will be redoing the loop at least in this area. But I need to ponder a bit first on how to go about this, and now that it's up and running and the semester is about to start again I'm not in too big of a hurry. (click image for full res) (click image for full res) (click image for full res) The black painted brackets for the GPUs. 780 is the top one, Titan on the bottom. (click image for full res) The fan controller, still with the copper plate from way back when, although it has a bit of oxidation by now. I tried clearcoating it to protect it from oxidation, but it didn't look right no matter what I tried so eventually I took the coat off again and just accepted the copper as it is. :) (click image for full res) (click image for full res) The cabling behind the fan controller. Not too tidy I will admit. :D (click image for full res) The bottom fans are connected to a single channel on the fan controller. One of the fans has had its tach wire soldered to one of the six pin connector's pins so that I can get an rpm reading. (click image for full res) Bottom fans with a studio light on the other side of the case: (click image for full res) Some overview shots: (click image for full res) (click image for full res) (click image for full res) (click image for full res) And with the rest of the computers in our household (except the server, which I couldn't take down for the pic). (click image for full res) I'll be doing some temp measurements in the next few days and will give an update on that when I have the data. So long, -aw
  13. alpenwasser

    Phanteks Enthoo Luxe Case Mod

    I am really digging the jet engine blade look on those fans. Rest ain't too bad either. ;)
  14. alpenwasser

    Shinai - Antec P380 casemod [continued tweaking]

    Yay, progress! Liking that mesh.
  15. Haha, thanks! Getting off all the O rings for painting was a bit of a finicky undertaking, and drilling the holes into the wood for the fittings took a while too, but I felt that if I'm spending a significant part of my money on this I might as well do it right. And yeah, chatting about our builds is why we're here (well, at least part of it), so thanks for that too. :D He, thanks Bill, much appreciated. That might be because the paint is actual copper. Copper particles in an expoxy matrix, that is. When you have it next to an unpolished piece of copper, they really look about identical. The difference between the paint and proper piece of copper comes when you polish the copper. The tone of color will then shift in the copper piece, whereas the paint can get glossy if you clearcoat it, but you can't get it to change its color tone (since the small particles aren't just magically going to align to reflect the light in the same way and form a perfect surface). In case anyone's interested, this is the paint: http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B000QB30FA/ref=s9_simh_gw_p60_d4_i1?pf_rd_m=A3JWKAKR8XB7XF&pf_rd_s=desktop-2&pf_rd_r=0P9X5ZK93J98F8NJ394V&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=585296387&pf_rd_i=desktop This might also be an alternative: http://www.amazon.de/1x-400ml-Wekem-Kupfer-Spray-WS84/dp/B0048SS5LG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1441360220&sr=8-1&keywords=kupferspray+wekem (sorry, couldn't find it on amazon.com, but this should get those who are interested started)
  16. Finally, Progress! Yay, it's not dead yet! Basically, the build has been stuck on pause for almost two years simply because life kept interfering, primarily with my finances. I had planned to finally do the copper tubing this summer, but then I needed to replace my laptop this spring and had some HDD issues in my server, so again the funds just weren't there to do the copper loop the way I had intended. So I decided to switch plans and do it with Norprene for the time being. I'll hopefully be alive for a while yet, so at some point in some build I should be able to still realise the concept I've made for the copper tubing, but for the time being, Norprene it is. I didn't really feel like going with acrylic since pretty much everyone is doing that these days (not that it's bad), plus I quite like the look of Norprene and think it fits nicely with the theme of the build. Also, I finally made some cables for the second GPU (which I'd bought last August actually, but couldn't use because I didn't have time to make the cables :D ). Anyway, first things first: Got myself some pretty affordable silver fittings, painted them in copper. Pics! Since I needed to deblock my CPUs, took a look at the thermal paste imprints: (click image for full res) (click image for full res) Fittings: (click image for full res) (click image for full res) Also got myself two active back plates from AC. The second GPU is actually a 780, not a Titan (no need for SLI in BOINC), so the active cooling is pretty pointless, but I went for symmetry. As usual for AC, there's quite a bit of steel. Copperised that too. (click image for full res) (click image for full res) (click image for full res) Finally, the current loop layout on the motherboard tray. The entire thing as it is here weighs in at a lofty 9.3 kg (that's about 20 lbs for the imperialists :P ). (click image for full res) (click image for full res) (click image for full res) (click image for full res) (click image for full res) (click image for full res) (click image for full res) Also, painted the outside of the Raystorm brackets with copper for a bit of added coppery contrast: (click image for full res) That's it for now. Should have pics of the rig in an assembled state in the not too distant future. It might not be what I originally envisioned, but I'm very happy to get this into a presentable state finally. :)
  17. Yeah, totally. I might not need it (for the time being), but I think it's an awesome idea, most definitely! :)
  18. Oh, I like that! I'll probably still keep my server since I also have the website on it, but that's very neat. :) Looking forward to you not breaking that much for not very long then. :D EDIT: Side note: I didn't mean to imply that I'd distrust your image hosting service btw., in case it came across like that. I just need my server anyway is all I was getting at. Just to avoid monkey-related confusion. :D
  19. Oh, breakage update time! I don't really need image hosting personally since I already have that on my own server, and I'd still need to keep that because I need it for other forums too, but I think it'd be cool if you offered it for those who need it.
  20. alpenwasser

    Shinai - Antec P380 casemod [continued tweaking]

    Oh, this looks interesting, I shall keep an eye on it. :)
  21. alpenwasser

    Aegis by FAT

    I wish I had something original and/or funny to say about the system, but I suppose a gif will have to do: Very nice work!
  22. alpenwasser

    [Build Log] Batgirl

    Oh, the colors on this one are a very nice change from the usual combos one tends to see, me likey.
  23. alpenwasser

    TJ07 'Reaper'

    Loving the black + bare metal + red coolant look, very awesome! :wub:
  24. alpenwasser


    Making the graphics card the main feature really is the theme here, nice! :D
  25. alpenwasser

    Trident of Neptune - MercoMods

    Dat moment when color coordination is so thorough that I need to check twice to make sure it's not Photoshop. :D Seriously, nice work.