If you have been having any issue registering, or logging in please email email@example.com.
Sorry for any inconvenience caused!
Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to contribute to this site by submitting your own content or replying to existing content. You'll be able to customize your profile, receive reputation points as a reward for submitting content, while also communicating with other members via your own private inbox, plus much more! This message will be removed once you have signed in.
alpenwasser got a reaction from Kylevdm in A Big Zoo Upgrade - We're Getting Some New Exhibits!
*presses page refresh*
"Woah, something happened! Magic!"
alpenwasser reacted to MercoMods in Trident of Neptune - MercoMods
Hello everyone! My name is Kristian Ingelstad, AKA MercoMods. This is my facebook page, where i will post most of my work: https://www.facebook.com/MercoMods
I am new to posting on forums like this, so please help me if i do something wrong! :)
I also never posted any worklogs.
I recently finished my newest project, "Trident of Neptune". I appreciate all feedback, positive and negative.
It is a simple mod with no custom loop, just a special color theme.
Motherboard: Asus Z97 Sabertooth Mark S
GPU's: 2x GTX 980 Reference design
RAM: 32GB Corsair Dominator Platinum DDR3 2133Mhz, got it for 150 dollar!
PSU: Corsair Ax1200i (Yes, i know.. Overkill. Had it from when i ran 3x 780 Ti Classified overclocked)
Storage: 3x Samsung 840 Pro 256gb, 1x Sandisk Extreme 128gb
Case: NZXT H440
Fans: Corsair AF140's and Af120's
Cooling: Corsair H110i GT
Here are all the parts i used, plus some more! Don't ask why i have 2 mouses there. I don't know! D:
The first thing i did after i decided the color scheme, was sleeving the cables.
After that, i took pictures of (almost?) all the parts i used, before modding!
Motherboard: Asus Z97 Sabertooth Mark S
GPU's: Nvidia GeForce GTX 980 reference design
RAM: 32gb Corsair Dominator Platinum DDR3 2133mhz
PSU: Corsair Ax1200i (again, please don't kill me for the overkill, i know 750watt is enough, but why buy a new weaker psu when i already have this one? D: )
Storage: 3x Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (Forgot to take a picture of the Sandisk Extreme 128gb)
Case: NZXT H440
Fans: Corsair Af140 and Corsair Af120
Cooling: Corsair H110i GT
I started with the fans. It was pretty easy using Bill Owen's videotutorial on youtube! (thanks!)
RAM: Just unscrewed everything, i guess.
Sadly, i didn't take too many pictures of the disassembled parts, as i was mostly recording the whole process for a video, which is coming soon. This includes everything from parts to "Trident of Neptune"!
Here's the RAM finished!
Here are the finished fans! Ignore the minor gray spots on the rubber grommets. This was fixed later! :)
Here's the first GPU finished painted!
Here's the first SSD! All of the SSD's were painted like this, but i added some acrylic plates on them later. Ignore the minor white spots on the BACKSIDE of the connection. The golden fingers/connectors was untouched, and the SSD works great. However, i should have attached the tape covering the connector better.
Here's one of my favorites! The watercooler!
Forgot to take a picture of the case alone when it was finished. :(
Anyways, here are some pictures of the finished build! Feel free to leave any sort of feedback on it, both constructive criticism and postive feedback is appreciated.
Yes i know the rubber rings are ugly. I had to "sacrifice" one side, to get them back inside. However, if you take a look at the last picture, they look great from the inside. :)
All the pictures were taken in this small ghetto garage, haha. We used white background for the pictures, but black for the recordings. Here's a sneak peek on the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZJHE6GJ9gZM. Due to some problems with Adobe Premiere, i will most likely have to recreate the start of the video, even further delaying it. :/
The "Clear" replacement window for NZXT's new H440 and Razer Edition case is machined from 3/16" cast acrylic. This window offers more durability and visual clarity over the factory Polycarbonate window. These replacement windows are made and sold exclusively by Mnpctech. You just bend tabs to install our custom H440 replacement window in your NZXT H440 and Razer designer H440 Mid tower case and available here, http://mnpctech.com/nzxt-h440-s340-razer-replacement-custom-window-smoked-clear-red-uv-green-blue/
Thanks for reading/watching! Hope you enjoyed it. This is my first big project, hopefully out of many. If you want to get more updates on future projects, be sure to follow me at https://www.facebook.com/MercoMods :)
alpenwasser reacted to Freebee in R@v3N - Migration... 05/06/2015
actually... you can.... or at least in Oceania.... I recently decided i'd enquire into whether getting them unpainted directly from HL would save me some cost.... got quoted arround $140 for a standard (480) rad and $45 for shipping on a pair.... which they said should cost me more for a non-standard order but they couldn't be bothered with putting a special item on the books so it would be normal price....
seeing as it was no cost saving, I decided to try and source some rads locally, and with the aussie dollar being so low at the moment, I bought some 2nd hand rads at least for the next little while...
but enough of the story.... the point is that they were perfectly happy to sell directly to me when I emailed them....
alpenwasser reacted to Ace_finland in Rockcrawler X99 [Finished]
I'm back with a new build. I'm making a companion for the Sabranco humvee. It will be a fast build as it needs to be finished by 22nd of May. As soon as it is done it will be joining the Humvee at Computex 2015.
As parts arrive i will let you know what the specs will be.
But i want to give a huge thank you to Corsair Johan and the people over at Asus (won't name you but you know who you are ;)) for believing in this project.
I got myself a GoPro camera and will be doing a complete time lapse video of the entire build. I hope to add every bit separately as the build moves forward
The concept. A very rough render of what it will look like. Have made some small changes but nothing too big.
The Truck at Asus HQ
First step to drill some holes in the 6mm aluminum sheet so i can fasten it on the bed of the mill.
Wish i had made my mill a bit bigger. Sheet fastened
Ready to roll
Turned out pretty could, some tiny marks on the alu but will be easy to sand away
Over to the acrylic
Next update in a couple of days,
alpenwasser reacted to Alvin Barber in Copper or Brass Etching
Thought this might be useful to someone. Here's how I etch brass and copper. The Gootee method works but I've found that Press n' Peel Blue produces more predictable results. http://www.techniks.com/
Examples of what I use this method for:
Gootee method at:
Here's how I made the Cobra-matic fan cover. Designed using CorelDraw:
Printed using a laser printer on the darkest or heaviest setting as a reverse image (always pays to have more than one). You can also use a copier to do the same thing.
Cut copper to approximate size (note stove background):
Put cutout laser print on copper; turn stove to 11:
Ensure SWMBO is gone :) use rolling pin to apply a metric tonne of pressure:
Aside: the rolling pin method works (as does a clothes iron) but if you don't have electric stove and/or a understanding wife, partner, significant other, landlord, or Mom. Let me introduce you to a laminator. If you plan to do more than one etch then $20 on ebay is a wise investment. This is a Royal Superguard Laminator Plus model. A little modding makes it perfect for etching PCBs and brass sheet.
Opening up the laminator, see the resistor? A quarter turn there and the laminator heats up to 200F and works wonders for getting a good transfer after about 5 passes through.
Back to the stove method, turn off stove; dunk copper in water to peel paper. If you use Press n Peel, this step is not needed.
Use thumb to clear more paper off; cover back in duct tape:
I use a peroxide and muriatic acid solution. Always, always add acid to peroxide instead of peroxide to acid. Recite "Do what you oughta, add acid to water" 3X. Gently slide the etchee into the solution to avoid splashing. This etch took 45 minutes but your time will vary depending on how deep you want the etch.
Obligatory PSA: Yes this is acid. Its an angry, angry liquid that eats metal cause its unable to get to you. Given a chance, it will burn your exposed skin. It will burn your sinuses and lungs if you breathe it. No kidding, it IS evil in a bottle! If you decide to try this, do it outside while wearing long sleeves, long pants, shoes (no, flip flops don't count), goggles, and chemical resistant gloves. [/PSA]
Remove with wooden tongs. Rinse with baking soda & water, remove tape, clean with acetone:
Grin, clean-up, and celebrate your awesomeness.
I've tried a variety of chemicals and techniques experimenting with electrolytic etching with copper sulfate as well as sodium bisfulate and peroxide. I've found the best etch was consistently with peroxide and muriatic acid. I do prefer Ferric Chloride for circuit boards tho'.
alpenwasser reacted to Cheapskate in The one project log rule. (Please read before posting)
OK, I'm in a foul mood, so I throw out royal edicts and stuff. Politically correct isn't my thing, either.
We've been fairly lax on the rules, but we on the verge of becoming THAT ONE SITE where the project logs are dominated with posts filled only with hot air. I've seen logs that don't even have a PLAN lately.:(
This stuff chases off potential enthusiasts. Imagine skimming through threads for 30 minutes and finding nothing but, "Imma gonna, but I don't know how."
PLEASE do not start a thread here until you have some actual progress to show, pictures, or have even bought a camera.
No one is going to "Watch this space," for months because you are going to do, "something awesome."
Save the dreams, butterflies, and pixie dust for somewhere else. Here we are interested only in blue smoke, power tools, and metal shavings.
alpenwasser reacted to Akira749 in Hurrikaine (CaseLabs S8)
It is done!!!
The build has reach the finish line!!!
The only little thing still missing is the "official" 3-SLI Cover from ColdZero but in the meantime, Gdesmo made me a nifty like acrylic piece and I slapped a white vinyl sticker on it. Thanks G. ;)
Here's the pictures
Thanks to all who followed the progress of the build!!! It's more appreciated than you can imagine!!
alpenwasser reacted to Akira749 in Hurrikaine (CaseLabs S8)
Update time!!! :D
This build is now at the end of it's leak testing and it was flawless! The only sad thing is that I think my D5 is dying because it's annoyingly loud and the air bleeding should be mostly done at the pump motor after around 15 hours.
But anyway here's a massive picture update!!!
This rad act as a rigid-to-pvc tubing "adapter" :lol: ......the pvc goes to the pedestal
A close-up shot at the connection between the side radiator and the pump outlet.
The completed build is many angles
The loop in a few angles
Close-up of the gpu sleeving
The motherboard with all the blocks
The SSD almost hidden
Today I will see if I change the D5 or not and if I keep it I will flush the loop and fill it up with the X1 Oil Black for a final photo shoot with the coolant in it!
Thanks and have a nice day!!!
alpenwasser reacted to kn12ghtmare19 in bench press
bottom is riveted on so i could work on the build at peace..not having the flimsy aluminum all over the place
for the rad mount i also try test fitting everything
used some m3 allen bolts and nuts
the front part being fitted too
meet one of my friend in this build
would make things interesting and sexy
its not seen much here but...you'll see soon..
few more acrylic pieces came..sides
here they are leaning on the frame
just making it look the part for now..i really regret painting it :(
but here it is..looks good to me
everything got took down..for the frame has too match things and be painted as seen..looks great
because red frame
got some panels on there as well
alpenwasser reacted to Corben in [Workblog] Orange Mécanique
Here we are, after shower long workweeks and excellent collaboration with Corsair, I finish this project.
Removing the front panel on top :
Full Leather :
A sponsor has happened along the way :
Cables by Corsair :
Les ventilos soufflent discrètement, peut être pas les plus silencieux, mais vraiment peu présent, j'aime beaucoup.
The Perfection :
Revised and corrected this terrible little 760 Oc
I wanted some cables dissipated in the "area life" and especially tidy:
Touch of color, but the next will be, YES, airbrush CRAAAACK
Et porte Full plexi qui a failli me tuer celle ci ...
It's all ... I hope you like it, please leave a comment and thank you all for your support
To be continued ...
alpenwasser reacted to RE Spartan in Armor Revo Spartan Edition (Finished)
well.. I painted the rear i/o, mobo heatsinks, ram, and ssd. I made a new mount for the ssd and i made a cover for the 3.5 bay...I installed my new white sata cables and now I believe I am officially finished with this build..THANK YOU EVERYONE for all of the support. This has been a great experience and I can't wait to start my next log...
alpenwasser reacted to 23RO_UK in Armor Revo Spartan Edition (Finished)
Not necessarily poor in my opinion mate, you just have your priorities right which is family comes first :)
Mods don't have to be Uber expensive to look great, yours does and trust me making an air cooled build look good requires more foresight, planning and skill than a watercooled build; with a watercooled build the eye is drawn to so many areas of the case that your not consciously taking everything in, with an air-cooled build the case is far less busy so you tend to scrutinise the details that much more.
alpenwasser reacted to Corben in [Workblog] Orange Mécanique
Hello Every body,
II have just found this forum. I have to admit, that I am impressed by what I can read it. There is a lot of people with a lot of talent.
I lived in Belgium, I work in the communication and the computing is a passion. I like very much personalizing certain objects and thus here is the presentation(display) of my last project. Corsair 600T.
I received the helpof Corsair France. He gave me :
16 go dominator platinium
10 AF 120 Quiet édition
2 SP 120 Quiet édition PWM
And my configuration :
Z87X-Oc by Gigabyte
SSD M550 240 Go (x3)
Corsair RM 650
Corsair câbles sleeved.
Asus Gtx760 Custom
I recovered the case with Leather. Color orange.
And the back panel with vinyle color : White cayman. But also the Corsair RM 650.
I sleeved all cable with the products of http://www.mdpc-x.com/
I worked the Plexi
and I covered also.
The work is hard and for the first big project, I try to feeling good ... later I received the GPU a ASUS GTX 760 2go OC
But, and i know that you are all right with me, I can stay with the GPU like that ? So ...
And that it's only the start ! The black be going to become white.
If you like this projet ...
Sorry for my bad english, it's not my native language
alpenwasser reacted to riesscar in ROG 900D Tricolor Build
Given that virtually all of the case modding skills I have attained so far have come from this forum, I thought it would be appropriate to post my current build log. I am always looking for suggestions on ways to better the build and improve my modding/rig-building capability, so please don't hesitate to critique.
ROG 900D Tricolor Build: Completed
Welcome to my ROG 900D Tricolor Build. My goal in this build was not only to draw upon the inspiring work of other modders and enthusiasts, but to try to be uniquely original and innovative. It is for this reason that I chose three colors for my ROG themed build (as opposed to the all-to-common red/black combo). This goal is also what motivated me to try some mods/customizations that I have yet to see in other builds. I hope that you like the end product as much as I enjoyed getting there, and I appreciate feedback in whatever form.
One through the side panel window with LED’s:
Chassis: Corsair 900D
Motherboard: ASUS RIVE BE
CPU: i7 4930k (currently clocked @ 44x)
RAM: 4x 8GB 2400 MHz G-Skill Ripjaws Z
GPU: EVGA GTX 780ti Superclocked Edition
PSU: Corsair ax1200i w/ custom sleeved modular cables by Ensourced.
SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 512GB
HDD: WD Black 1TB
OS: Windows 8.1 Pro x64
Display: 2x ASUS VG248QE Monitors - Calibrated w/ Datacolor Spyder Pro
Keyboard: Razer Deathstalker Ultimate - LCD Screen used for system stats via custom scripted applet (i.e. temps, clocks, voltages, etc...)
Mouse: Roccat Kone XTD
CPU Block: EK Supremacy: Clean CSQ (Clear Plexi)
GPU Block: EK Full Cover Block for GTX 780ti (Plexi & Nickel/Original CSQ) w/ Backplate
SB & Mofset Blocks: EK RIVE-BE Full Board Waterblocks (Plexi & Nickel/ Original CSQ)
Reservoirs: EK Multioption x3 250 w/ Multiport Top and Red Harbinger Cover; Monsoon Series 2 Bay Res w/ Swiftech D5 Drive integrated
2nd Pump: Swiftech MCP35x
Radiators: 2x Alphacool Nexxos UT60 480mm
Fittings: Mostly Primochill Rigid Ghost Compressions Fittings, Koolance QDCs; 2 Koolance Fitting Accessories (45 Degree adapter & 90 Degree Low Profile Adapter); EK standoff fittings
Tubing & Coolant: Primochill Rigid Acrylic (Clear) & Primochill Rigid PETG (Clear) Mayhem’s Pastel Blood Red
Fans: 8x Corsair SP120s; 4x Noctua NF-F12s; 2x Corsair AF140s; 2x Corsair AF120s
Fan Controller: Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 Pro w/ Passive Heatsink
-Accessories - 2x Temp Probes; 1x Aquacomputer Inline Flow Meter; 1x AQC Inline Temperature Sensor; 1x 2-pin PWM connector
LED’s: 3x 12” Darkside Dimmable White LED strips; 2x Logysis White LED Corner Sticks
Modding & Customization:
The red in the build is Duplicolor Red Metal Specks, and the gray is Duplicolor Cast Coat Iron Engine Enamel.
900D Front Plate Mod: This case modification is based upon Bill Owen’s tutorial at MNCP Tech. I did make a slight change, in that I did not want to lose the Corsair logo at the bottom of the plate. I left an extra 2” on the bottom and an extra 1” on the top, and then I covered the Corsair logo with automotive masking tape and carefully cutout the general outline of the logo with a utility knife. The ROG logo is a sticker. As a final revision, I painted the steel mesh gray. Here is a shot of my plate:
Here is a link to Bill Owen’s tutorial for those who are interested: http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/633-diy-case-mod-guide-corsair-900d-front-grill/
If you have never watched any of Bill’s guide’s, and are interested in case modification, you should have a look… I learned most of the techniques I implemented from he and the rest of themodzoo.com.
5.25” Bay Recess Panels: While I love many things about the 900D, I find the decision to make the sides of the 5.25” drive bays recessed (upon removing the covers) to be a horrible one. - One can see that when the slot covers are removed for installation of bay devices, the chassis is blemished by the front I/O cover and front plate not sitting flush with the 5.25” area, as well as by the bizarre rectangles/squares that are exposed (this part of the bezel is plastic and does not match the rest of the front in color).
After failing to cut the plastic of the slot covers in order to reattach the outsides only, I decided the best way to go would be to use 3mm plexi plates that I cut to size, painted and attached. I think it came out well (better than the default at least):
Now, I don’t claim to be a master modder (or anything close to it), and there are probably much more efficient ways of doing this, but I thought I’d just do a quick guide on how I made these plates:
1) I cut a piece of clear 3mm plexi with a jewelers saw (although a dremel or hacksaw will work), making sure to cut it slightly larger than the measured dimensions.
2) I then used a metal hand file to sand the piece down to size.
3) I then used some white plastic primer as a base coat… however, if I could do it all over again I would’ve used adhesion promoter or SEM self-etching primer as opposed to plastic primer. I find that it lays flat and doesn’t chip. Here is a shot of one after being primed:
4) I used Rustoleum Semi-Flat Black Enamel for a top/color coat. Because they will not match the brushed aluminum effect of the I/0 cover or 5.25” slot covers, I removed and painted these as well.
5) In order to attach the pieces such that they will sit at the correct depth, another 3mm’s of thickness is needed. I originally just stacked another piece of plexi to make up the difference, but I found another way that I prefer: using 3M double sided mounting tape (the white foam type), stack two pieces when sticking the plates on… the tape is about 1.3” thick, so by doubling it up it your plates will sit at the right depth.
Note: Since writing this part of the guide, I switched to only two bay devices. I therefore cut these plates into four total: one on each side of a single 5.25” bay device and one on each side of a dual 5.25” bay reservoir.
Painted Top Grill: This was painted in the same way that I paint all metal pieces: scuff, clean, prime with SEM self-etching primer, wait an hour and then apply topcoat. Be careful when detaching the metal grill from the plastic framing of the top panel. The metal grill is attached with tabs that are prone to breaking off when Bent too many times. I painted the metal grill gray:
Painted Bottom Side Doors: In the interest of consistency, I decided to paint the hinged side panels at the bottom of the chassis the same color. Pretty simple again: detach the hinged panels, mask off the area you don’t want to paint, scuff with red scotchbrite pads, prime with SEM self-etching primer, and then paint. I also removed and painted the plastic latches red in order to keep with the theme:
Painted Faceplates of Monsoon Bay Res and Aquaero 6 Pro Faceplate: For these it was just a matter of removing the aforementioned pieces, then painting according to my usual method of scuffing, SEM priming and topcoating. I painted them gray and reattached:
Painted ROG Logo on Right Side Panel: I decided (out of boredom one night, really) to paint a red ROG logo on the right side panel. I first made an ROG logo stencil, masked off the side panel with Sticky Mickey’s Automotive Detailing masking tape, placed the stencil over the tape, and then used an exacto knife with very light pressure to cut out the logo. I then proceeded to paint in my usual manner: scuff, prime and paint. It came out pretty well, so I kept it:
The Ludicrously Long Fillport: There is no way to add a top mounted, external fill port on the 900D. I find this to be frustrating, so this was an attempt at getting around it. In all honesty, I would have to say that this is the most disappointing of all the mods I made on the build. I did not consider that when using Mayhem’s Pastel coolant, the nano-particles fall out of suspension if the coolant is not mobilized. Therefore, my fill line (which is not a part of the loop due to it not having any coolant flow) contains coolant that is slightly opaque, and the bottom of the tube is lined with silt… oh well, Hardly noticeable:
Coldzero Plates: If you own a 900D and have not checked out coldzero.eu, then I highly recommend that you do. The plates will transform your build, and the gentleman who runs it provides reasonable prices, incredible shipping, and outstanding customer service. For example, I asked for a custom part in the order notes of an order I made, and he was so generous that he cut out the plexi for free and did so in record time. Anyway, I have installed the following plates:
1) 900D Back Panel
2) 900D Motherboard Tray: with EATX MB cutout, cable routing cuts, and reservoir mounting holes predrilled.
3) 900D Long Midplate (Plexi) w/ Corsair Logo: All of the logos are plexi cutouts, and so I painted mine to match my build:
4) HDD Cage Backplate w/ ROG Logo (Custom Part):
One thing to note about painting the plexi logos is that you mustn’t apply too much paint (if any) to the sides of the cutouts, as they will not fit back in if you do. I used adhesion promoter primer, painted and then thinned out all of the paint along the sides of the pieces in order to ensure that they would fit… it was still tight, and the pieces on the midplate still sit out just the slightest bit; however, I actually kind of like the effect, so I’m going to keep it.
5) 5.25” Left Plate Clear (no cutouts for mounting an SSD): That’s not a cutout logo on the 5.25” plate. It is a sticker, but it blends seamlessly I think:
Drilling Passthrough Holes into Midplate for Tube Routing: If you are reading this thread, you are probably familiar with watercooling… at least to a degree. I have a 480mm Rad at the bottom of my 900D, so in order for my loop to reach it I had to drill holes for passthrough fittings. This is somewhat of a nerve-racking endeavor, as plexiglass can crack easily – especially when it is only 3mm thick.
My method of drilling was to use a dremel to drill a pilot hole, and I then used a step-bit up to 7/8”. I finish reaming out the remainder with a sanding bit on the dremel. Use masking tape to prevent scratching the plate, put a wooden block under the plate (so that the step-bit has something to drill into), go slow without too much pressure, watch out for melting due to heat, and use clamps to hold the plate in place.
Installed Handle at Front of Chassis: “Why only one?” you might be asking. The handle I installed is intended simply so that I have something to grab when I pull the PC out from under my desk and turn the case for maintenance, etc… The handle I installed is not strong enough to bear the weight of a fully watercooled 900D (and neither am I for that matter ;):
Custom Painted Fittings: I have searched around quite a bit and have not seen a single build in which custom painted fittings were used. This I find surprising, given the limited range of color options available. I imagine that the issue is fear of getting paint or other harmful chemicals into the loop. After switching to rigid tubing, the following is no longer applicable to this build; however, I thought I would leave it in the log for those who are interested in painting their flex tubing compression fittings. To paint the compression collars for Primochill’s rigid ghost compression fittings, simply scuff, prime and paint. No part of the collar comes into contact with liquid, so the measures to prevent overspray from contaminating the loop are not necessary.
Painted EK Clear Acrylic Waterblocks/Bridges: Like painted fittings, I am surprised that I could not find any builds with this modification… in fact, I couldn’t even find a thread where the idea was mentioned. Here is the issue I sought to remedy:
I really like how the clear acrylic versions of EK waterblocks and accessories allow the coolant color to show through; however, most of the block is not filled with coolant, so you end up with a little bit of color and a whole lot of satin-clear acrylic, which I find to be an eyesore. My thinking was that there is no reason for the entirety of the block to be clear acrylic… only the part through which coolant passes. The rest should fit the build theme. I went about painting the pieces like this:
1) I used a little blue dye and some distilled water to locate the channels within the block that would be visible, and then I plugged the blocks.
2) With the coolant still in, I used thin vinyl pin-striping masking tape (capable of round turns) in order to outline the channel.
3) Once I achieved the correct shape with the flexible masking tape, I filled in the remainder of the acrylic with tape.
4) I then masked the metal block underneath the acrylic to protect it from any overspray (I guess I should say underspray).
5) I then painted the pieces with the same SEM self-etching primer that I always use, and, once it dried, I pulled the tape off and put one light coat of clear enamel as a protectant. Here are the results:
I also painted the thumbnuts of the supremacy:
Now a few shots of these blocks filled with coolant in the system:
Custom Painted Tubing! : Of all of the mods that I implemented in this build, this is the one that I was most excited about doing, but also the one that I was most frightened of messing up. I have yet to see custom painted rigid tubing, so this is something that I definitely was interested in trying out. One of my major concerns was that the chemicals of the paint might compromise the integrity of the acrylic, leading to a crack due to pressure within the loop. To ensure that my tubing would not crack under pressure, I closed off the loop with a quick disconnect while leak testing, then started the pumps (I know… could’ve damaged the pumps). No issues, so I figured I was good to go and haven’t had any issues thus far.
I went with a spiral paint design, which I accomplished using 3M Vinyl 471 automotive detailing masking tape, which is excellent for this sort of application. It differs from normal masking tape in that it is stretchy, allowing for curves. It is also highly tolerant of removal and reapplication, which was essential given the number of times I failed to apply the tape evenly. Anyway, the process was as follows: apply the tape according to the design you want, use adhesion promoter to prime the tubing and then apply Rustoleum Sem-Flat Black Enamel Spray paint as a topcoat. Here are some shots of the tubing at each of these phases:
Although I know that the tubing can be clearly seen in previous shots, I cannot resist some close-ups of the painted tubing installed and filled with coolant:
Custom Painted Ram Heat-Spreaders: I painted my G-Skill Ripjaws Z heatspreaders gray as well. This was not too difficult, although care should be used when removing them… and it will void the warranty!!! I think that they came out nicely, but given that they are in so many pictures above I won’t post any more shots.
Painted EK Badges: The silver EK badges that are included on all of their products are actually removable stickers. I didn’t realize this at first, but it was a wonderful discovery for those of us who do not want any shiny silver in our build. I removed them and painted them gray.
Cable Lacing: A big thanks to Alpenwasser for his wonderful tutorial on how to do this. A link to said tutorial is here: http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/990-cable-lacing-tutorial-aka-cable-stitching-cable-sewing/
And here are some shots of the lacing:
Sleeved Internal Cables (including USB 3.0): I went ahead and sleeved the internal USB2.0 and HD Audio Cables:
I also sleeved the front I/O cables:
Sleeving the USB3.0 cable would’ve been impossible were it not for moddiy.com, where I ordered a USB 3.0 extension that was easily sleeved; however, in my infinite ineptitude I forgot to order black paracord, so this sleeving is only red and gray:
ROG Window Decal: The last thing I’ll document is the window decal, which I think I purchased from KustomPCs or something like that. It is an etched effect color, and it looks really nice when the system is powered on:
PC case Mod Items from Mnpctech
I think that is about all I have the energy to write at this point. There is so much more that I could document, and I must have another 200 photos that I could post. In addition to being tired, I fear that this log might not be read by many and that I am writing in vain… I hope not. If you all have any questions about the build or some feature that interests you please don’t hesitate to ask. I hope that this log is read, and I hope even more that the build is liked.
Thanks for reading,
alpenwasser reacted to riesscar in ROG 900D Tricolor Build
I also wanted to quickly show my cable lacing. The method I used was the one posted in the modding guide section of the forum:
I think that I laced them a little too tight, causing them to be stubborn or become unaligned around bends. Much better aesthetically than a cable comb in my opinioin.
alpenwasser reacted to Orange Clockwerk in [Grey Matter] Cooler Master HAF 912 Completed! 12/12/14 : Nominated for Mod of the Year!
Well everyone, after four months my project Grey Matter comes to final close here! I would really like to thank everyone for tuning in and following my build! Also a special shout out to Bill at MNPCtech! It means a lot to me having everyone stop by and leave comments and I invite you all to follow my next project! I will be starting the work log next week!
With this Grey Matter build I tried to do a few things out of the ordinary, I see a trend in color schemes and I wanted to try something different with the white and grey combination, I think it paid off. I also wanted to show off the awesome water blocks we buy for our graphics cards but never see them because the way they are mounted, so I changed my GPU orientation to the vertical position! I also saw people on Youtube making reservoirs by hand and wanted to give that a shot. In turn, I came up with this waterfall style bay area mounted reservoir that also houses a slim style blu-ray burner. I also wanted to make sure you could see the water pump so I made a little chamber with a window to see it.
Enough babbling! Here are the final photos of the project!
There you have it!! I hope you all enjoyed watching as much as I loved building! Until next time! Take Care!
alpenwasser reacted to jassilamba in Overclock temps vs. Inline tubing temps
If you look at my review of the RX 360, you can see what the water temps are under a heavy OC and full load. With the CPU at almost 80C, the water temp was an average of 30.5 C.
The only time the water temps felt too high (when touching the tube), was when I did not have any fans on.