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Found 9 results

  1. Hi guys this is my first Casecon called Alphatier I am from germany and all typos ar for your Entertainment XD but i try my best. The name Alphatier is because of the two massive Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta 180mm Triple Radiators. They are the biggest Radiators Alphacool offers. I have build the case around them. There is no Case wehre these Monsters fit so i had to build one. Alphacool Germany and hardwarmax.net helped me out with massively the Watercooling Components so a BIG THANK YOU to them. Without them i would not be able to afford a Projekt like that. The concept of this whole Build is to create an open unique PC Case that is practical an can handle any Hardware you throw at it. I just cant see BIG BLACK BOXES anymore. The goal ist to create a mostly passive ultra silent PC . I also build the whole thing at home, basically in my room with pretty basic tools and materials that everybody can buy in the local hardware store. I did this on purpose to inspire people who think they can not do nothing cool because they do not have a whole workshop. This is how it looks right now but still a lot to do i will update this pic like i progress.
  2. Dark Matter Scratch Build: Who am I? A bit about me; a few years ago I suffered a traumatic brain injury that caused my brain to hemorrhage. After spending a long time in intensive care I kept thinking about case modding. Before long, its all I could think about. After recovering from my injury I was left with epilepsy and brain that no longer functioned like before. I started to look at things differently. Inspiration for mods began to pop up in the oddest places. I eventually became overthrown with modding ideas and designs. Soon I decided it was time to start. Theres nothing quite like being in the grocery store and yelling, “thats it, 45 degree angles” and then running out of the store like a mad man. No matter what I was doing, it all kept coming back to case modding. Today case modding is my life and it allows me to be truly happy. For some case modding is a hobby but, for me its a lifestyle. And So It Begins: Why: I decided to do this scratch build, “Dark Matter” for several reasons. I was tired of limiting my mods to the confines of a mass manufactured case. There are a ton of great cases out there but, I wanted to do something my style from the ground up. The design phase began once I started getting close to completing the StarCraft Day Zero case. However, a lot of the main features for this build have been planned over the last year. During the scratch build I will be using new modding techniques as well as using materials that aren't always associated with case modding. If you like seeing original creations and have a love for the truest form of modding; you're in the right place. Design Screen Shots: I would also like to thank the Sponsors that believe in the Dark Matter Scratch Build • Quad vertical PCI-e slots added • Modded the stock 80mm rear fan into a 120mm • Tons of custom metal fabrication found throughout the build. • 90 degree brackets for the frame of the case • Snap in color matched rings for the 120mm PureWings 2 PWM fans • Gskill logo badge with backlit letters • EK logo with plate on the top grill insert • Extensive cable management setup and cable combs • Case for Arduino Mega and mini TFT touch screen for the animated case badge • 1,200 watt DarkPower 11 Pro BeQuiet Modular PSU • 7 X 120mm PWM PureWings 2 case fans • 16mm angel eye Vandal switch (blue) • 5050 RGB LED strips with wireless remote • Arduino Mega with mini TFT touch screen (animated case badge) • Printrbot various filaments (3D printed plastics) • Large custom lexan water-path behind the motherboard tray • Combination of nickel plated and PETG hardline tubing Main Sponsors: Gigabyte: (SLI GPUs) • 2 x Gigabyte GTX 960 Extreme 4 gig SLI GPUs (8–gig total) Supermicro: (Motherboard) • Supermicro C7–Z170–OCE motherboard G.Skill: (DDR4 Ram) • Gskill Trident DDR4 black & white edition (4 sticks of DDR4) OCZ: (Solid State Drives) • 3 X OCZ Vector 180 SSDs (almost a terabyte Total) BeQuiet: (Power Supply & Fans) • 1,200 watt DarkPower 11 Pro BeQuiet Modular PSU • 7 X 120mm PWM PureWings 2 case fans Ensourced: (Custom Sleeved PSU Extensions) • Custom length cables, sleeving design and cable combs Printrbot: (Filament & Hotend) • 7 rolls of filament and an experimental hotend with a 1mm nozzle EMI Design (lasercut work) • Honeycomb floor panel, 240 grill and bottom door EKWB: (Water-Cooling) • EKWB X3 250 reservoir • EKWB Supremacy Evo CPU block • 480mm radiator (quad BeQuiet 120mm fans) • EKWB Revo pump w/plexi top • Fittings Including: - 12mm HDC hardline fittings - 90 degree adaptors - 50mm spacers - M to M adaptors - 10 & 12mm hardline bending kit - 12mm tubing - Passthrough fittings
  3. Hello everyone, Back in October Asus had a local case mod competition, for the 2015 Cluj-Napoca (Romania) Dreamhack event. This mod was our entry, which won us the first place. It's a scratchbuild with a side HUD, which displays system details, in real time. The system itself sends the information, to a Raspberry PI, inside the case. The Raspberry PI handles the side panel display. The side panel is the outer level of a TN, put on top of a laser-etched plexiglass, which is put right on top of the motherboard. The case is mostly plexiglass and abs, cut on a laser CNC. Rig: i7 4790k; 16GB HyperX beast @2400MHz; Asus Maximus VII Formula; HyperX 3K 120GB SSD x2 RAID0; ASUS GeForce GTX 980 Poseidon Platinum Watercooling: Phobya 360mm radiator Phobya CPU-Cooler UC-2 LT Alphacool Cape Corp Coolplex Pro 15 LT Alphacool 13/10 compression fitting 90° revolvable G1/4 - Deep Black Masterkleer tubing PVC 13/10mm (3/8"ID) UV-reactive dark red Laing DDC-pump + Alphacool Laing DDC Plexi cover We're pretty new to game and for the next project we will have a full blown work-load. Up until minute 7 you can see the design process and at around 14:00 you can see the development of the software as well. Hope you like the video. Any feedback is welcome! :)
  4. Hi fellow modders, This will be my first own thread here and I hope you'll like it. I hereby present you my new baby The case: Lian-Li PC-V353Noctua NF-S12A PWM front fan (2x) While the case assembly and material is top notch, as expected from Lian-Li, it suffers from several design flaws : Poor cable management Not designed for side power connectors of GPU (had to lengthen the hole) Headphone connector doesn't fit the front panel jack because the panel is too thick (have to use washers with the panel circuitry standoff to compensate that). The hardware: Asus Z87 Gryphon + Thermal armor kitIntel Core i5-4570Noctua NH-C14Kingston HyperX Fury black 8GBEVGA GTX770SC 2GBSandisk Extrem II 240GB The cooler height is limited to 105mm with this case, so I've only fitted the bottom 140mm fan of the Noctua NH-C14 and have it blowing upwards. The case is in a temporary state as I have to fully sleeve my PSU. I'm using my old Corsair HX520 from my previous rig and while the modular cables are nice flat ribbons, the non-modular 24 pins ATX and 12V EPS are : All packed inside a single sleeve, resulting in a disgracious thick multicolored cable. Way too long for this small case, resulting in a pack of noodles in the top part of the case.Once the cable management is solved, I'd like to experiment several modifications. I'm currently moddeling the case and will post several ideas here in the next posts. Current ideas: Custom cable routingFull watercoolingBuilt-in audiophile headphone amp (to replace the poorly designed side connector)Reworking the disk assembly Stay tuned ;)
  5. This is a bit of a mashup, part a repost of an old guide I did and part of a small build/mod I did, I'm reposting it here as a single thread. Part 1: So Let's make a filter. This has all come about because the Casecom 6788 doesn't come with a filter for the PSU, I've tried to find one but I've had no luck. :(/> Here's the bottom of the case so you can see what I'm on about Now with a bottom mounted psu, sucking in air from below I want a filter on there so it doesn't suck up dust and there's already mounting slots for it. Now on to the materials One empty box and some fine nylon mesh (it's called Tulle, stuff used to make tutus, haberdashery or ebay it's about £1 a meter), you could use a pair of tights, I just don't have any tights handy but I have got this mesh. ;)/> Tools needed Cutting board, knife, glue (UHU All Purpose, not the solvent free one*), ruler and a pen (not in shot) I've already cut off one of the ends of the Asus box, however as the cardboard is a bit too thick I'm also cutting up a Yate-Loon fan box. How you do this: Measure out the size of the filter you want, for the 6788 PSU filter it's 125mm by 98mm. Draw a rectangle to the correct size on the card board and cut it out. Mark out an inner rectangle and cut that out, to form a simple frame. I used 10mm as a good frame thickness. Now repeat so you have two matching frames. Cut out 2 rectangles of mesh, make the larger than the frame, you can cut off the excess at the end. Glue it all together. Run the glue around the 1st frame Lay on a sheet of mesh Press the mesh down making sure it stays flat. Run the glue around the edge again 2nd sheet of mesh Press down 3rd layer of glue Finally carefully position the 2nd frame on top and press down. There's the final article all glued up. However before we can do any thing with it the glue need to dry, we need to keep this flat and the mesh tight while the glue dries. So stick it under a pile of books and leave it over night. I've also sandwiched the filter between two left over bits of the Asus box, so if the glue does leak I'm not going to end up with a filter stuck to the floor or to a book. Come back tomorrow to see how it goes. *The solvent based UHU is great stuff, the solvent free stuff is just PVA glue, you could use that instead but it's just not the same.
  6. Alright boys and girls, here's a quick one for you. This is great for the people in your life that love mushy stuff. Girl friends, wives, moms, sisters, that attractive coworker that thinks you're creepy. They'll love this crap. Odds are, if you're browsing around on the zoo, you've got an Intel stock cooler kicking around. Time to make a yard sculpture! Step 1: You'll need a rock, your coolers, and something for stems. Springs or metal rods work well. Step 2: Prepare rock for drilling. Hammer drill is the ticket, go with a hole as small as possible for your stem material. Step 3: Drill some holes. One for each stem is a good amount. Step 4: Stretch out your stems if you're doing springs. Clean up your stock coolers, get all the thermal paste off with rubbing alcohol. Drill holes in coolers for the stem. Here's another look at the cooler. You want to drill at an angle so the flower will be tilted up, just like the real thing! Step 5: Time to paint. Choose some cool colors. Glitter is always nice. You can do life-like patterns or some crazy Dr. Seuss stuff, it's up to you, you're an artist! (This is a great way to clean out the spray paint closet ^_^ ) Step 6: Put it all together. You'll have to wait for the paint to dry, over night works well if you cake the paint on like I do. You'll also need some 2-part epoxy, the quick 5 minute dry stuff is what I used. Get as much epoxy down into your rock base as possible and stick the stems in. I also coat the stem end that's going into the rock. After the stems have set, put the flower heads on. Step 7: Get ready for all sorts of love and affection, cause whoever you're giving this too is going to eat it up.
  7. •••I am updating and adding pics as I go••• I recently received a Sharkoon 120mm Shark Blade fan as well a as an MNPCtech Overkill Ring. Soon after it arrived I noticed that it had built in mounts for LEDs. My inner modder instantly said, "I have to do it." Adding LEDs to fans isn't terribly difficult but, it does require the use of a soldering iron. PARTS NEEDED: • 4 X 5mm LEDs - (In a color of your choice) • 2 X resistors - (These will effect how bright the LEDs shine as well as protect them from over current) • Some wire - (Typically it will need to carry around 80ma max) • Wire wrap or paracord - (Optional) TOOLS NEEDED: • Soldering iron • Solder • Heat-shrink • Helping hands clamp - (Not required but, they help with soldering) • Lighter or heat gun OPTIONAL WIRING METHODS: There are a few different options that can be explored. The LEDs can be wired in a series or parallel. I chose to wire mine in a series for a few reasons. The main reason is that I wanted more of a glow VS a super bright display. Another reason that I went with wiring them in a series is the ability to keep the wiring very clean.
  8. After some looking around a bit I found little on making air cooled heat-syncs. I know I could mill out a water block and that has been well documented by others. However, I would like to make my own air cooled heat-sync to take advantage of the 220mm fan on the side of my current case. Does anyone have experience or references they might share on the subject? Thanks a bunch.
  9. So here we are... An easy, simple, little grassroots-guide to installing an MNPCTech Steampunk Grill. This guide can be applied to any MNPCTech acrylic grill, but will not work at all with any other (read: inferior) brand grills. ;)/> I don't know; I think it has something to do with DOS and BASIC or something. This guide contains certain assumptions of the reader. For instance, how to plug power tools in to wall sockets and how to breath. But these are all common things most human beings perform, but it's just a precautionary blanket statement. The case I will be installing the grill onto doesn't matter, but here's the top of the chassis for visual aid. And here we have MNPCTech's awesome, awe-inspiring and extraneously omnipotent grill. Well, one of them anyways. ;)/> You can purchase the grills here, "Steampunk" 240 PC Liquid Cooling Radiator & Fan Grill from Mnpctech I decided I'm putting the grill on the top of the chassis because the stock case has a paltry single 80mm fan there, and I wanted to cover that up. Normally, I'd go through the trouble of creating some kind of overly-complex stencil that only I could decipher with no small help from my trusty decoder-ring I acquired out of stale caramel popcorn box with a sailor on it, but for ease of use and for the reader's comfort, I'm going to go back to the basics and do things in a normal, simple and obviously logical sense. Granted, it's been a number of years since I've modded in this low-tech fashion, so bear with me, kind reader! (Inserted comment... Regardless of what I do here, you really should masking-tape the panel you're cutting to protect it from any possible mistakes or bleeding incidents before beginning work on it!) After placing and lining the grill exactly where I want it to reside, I simply apply some tape to hold the thing in place. This isn't totally necessary, but for those who do not have a steady hand or those that aren't that good at playing the game Jenga or perhaps not adept at performing brain-surgery for instance, might find this a good thing to do. Next, I simply take a writing utensil of some kind; in this case it's a pencil (#2 to be exact, because no other pencil will work; Beauty & The Beast graphics on it counts as extra points), and trace around the inside of the grill's edges as well as the (in this case) 8 (eight) fan mounting holes. Some like to just hole-saw the holes out or even dremel them out in a circle, but this particular (read: awesome, awe-inspiring and extraneously omnipotent) design of these grills complement the inside edges of the fan itself; i.e. flat edges with rounded corners. So, in this case, I'm going to be cutting the case to match the inside edges of the grill proper. After about 4 hours of making sure my pencil lines are straight, I'm left with this lovely sight... Now, let's get to cutting, shall we? All modders have their methods. Some like to cut with a jigsaw; some with a rotary tool; even some that like to use a scroll saw or their own teeth. Personally, I like to use a rotary tool. They're easy to use, fast, and convenient. Kind of like a drive-thru bathroom, I suppose. :worried: Now, I'm not going to to take the time to delve deep into the logistics and philosophy of utilizing a rotary tool, because there are plenty of guides for that already. Bill's video Guide to Dremel Techniques is well-worth a viewing or 5. It's almost a religious experience, and it may save one or two of your precious digits, not to mention that irreplaceable case panel! Personally, I like to use a Flex-Shaft with my rotary tool because it allows better control. Of course, that's my personal opinion about them, but others may disagree; similar to the boxers-or-briefs debate. I also tend to use the reinforced EZ-Lock discs. I can get three cases-worth of cutting out of a single disc (your experience may vary), and they're way more reliable than the standard ones. Oh, and it may be a good idea to wear some hearing and eye protection. Just food for thought. You could easily cut along the lines you've already drawn and it will come out fine, but I like to take it one step farther by 'beveling' the cut. I just make a new path slightly outside of the existing drawn line which creates a buffer on the metal. By doing this, the final cuts will be made slightly wider than the grill's edges which makes the grill overlap your cut edges. It looks more tidy, and it will possibly serve as 'insurance' to those that aren't that good at the aforementioned Jenga game and the cuts are everything but straight. Now, let's start to cut the case panel. Simply align the disc along the lines and let the rotary tool do it's job. DO NOT push down hard, or barely at all. Again, let the rotary tool do it's job; i.e. removing metal. And after another 4+ hours of back-breaking and grueling manual labor, we're left with this... I simply like to run a flat-file along the edges of the cuts to remove burrs and snags and to 'shape out' slight errors in the cuts. You can also use sandpaper (if you're careful not to ruin the finish on the panel if you don't intend to paint) or even a rotary tool's sanding disc attachment. Whatever you choose will result in wonderful, glorious excitement to be had by all. I forgot to drill out the holes, but that's okay. Let's take care of that as well. I had a scrap chunk of wood laying around, so I propped the panel on top of that allowing me a flat surface to drill into as well as getting it up off the table. Again, everyone has their own method. Now, after that's all wrapped up and dipped in awesomeness, let's see where the grill's going to sit, shall we? Looks perfect. I then remove the protective paper from the acrylic (I personally like to wear disposable latex gloves to minimize fingerprints, peanut butter & jelly, or whatever happens to be on your grubby little hands at the time from transferring to the acrylic) and place it on it's final home. I also align the (in this case) two 120mm fans roughly where I want them on the opposite side of the panel. You can purchase the grills here, "Steampunk" 240 PC Liquid Cooling Radiator & Fan Grill from Mnpctech Next, let's begin to thread in the mounting screws into the fans. If all your drilling was actually straight this time, the holes should all line up with their corresponding holes through the panel and the fans themselves. I personally use larger #10 5/8" length screws for fan install if I'm not using socket-cap screws, but the stock screws that come with your fan(s) work just as good. Although the black-oxide screws look beefier and better though, don't they? ;)/> Now, that 'beveling' I mentioned earlier? If you look closely, you can't see the edges of the cut metal. Looks killer and professional. Now sit back and admire your mod-godlike results... Let's flip on the fans for a little light-show action! (note: only LED fans will light up, so purchase accordingly. Some may not produce an actual light-show, but will create some light) You can get the Apevia 120mm 0r 140mm Green LED PC Cooling Fans from Mnpctech And this concludes my little tutorial to cutting holes in your case and installing an MNPCTech grill. Again, this guide only works with MNPCTech brand grills, so please keep that in mind. ;)/> Now, enjoy the fruits of your labor and--D'oh! I just realized I now have to do the same thing to the top of the inside chassis too, since there's two layers here! :angry:/> ----------------
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