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  1. Hi guy's here is a build log for the Fractal Define XL case I,m building for a giveaway. The case was graciously donated by Fractal-Design. This will be only a case build with no PC hardware, that will be installed by the end-user. It will be loosely based on the 2007 Corvette Brickyard Pace car mainly for the paint scheme. Goal is to give it an automotive feel without modify the entire case as most of the mods will be done on top section of the case. It will include CNC billet aluminum case feet, headlight and taillight bezels and rear spoiler with fiberglass scoop and polished stainless exhaust side pipes. I will also make the lens for the lights out of cast acrylic with 12 volt LED bulbs. Grill and scoop opening will be fitted with modders mesh donated by MNPCTECH. Window will be shipped with clear acrylic that can be used or easily used as drill template for different color acrylic. OK on to the build: Here I have roughed out a set of case feet from 2" stock aprox. 1 1/2" tall with final design yet to be determined. Inside made couple cover panels just to help clean up the inside. Now to set it up for 360 rad in the top panel,as most of you know there isn't enough room in most cases for rad and push/pull fan setup. So I bent up a piece of .070 thick stainless because it is the same thickness of the rad grill I'm going to use. I used a sheet metal roller to create the radius in the front.
  2. Here is your chance to win a set of custom made LED case feet by Mach speed Racing (http://fannblade.com). Designed for Mid or Full size cases. (stay tuned for ITX style feet coming soon) Contest runs today until April 8, 2018. Bill and I will pick a winner on build quality and build enthusiasm. That doesn't mean it will need to be a one off $10,000 creation from a veteran builder. 100% FREE giveaway that includes shipping. ALL COUNTRIES INVITED! ENTRY RULES: 1. Post picture of case build (completed or under construction) 2. Tell us why you think these would put your case build over the top. 3. Quality of pics may also be taken into consideration. (Winner is obligated post completed pics of their new case installed) Pick a slot style and color. Colors offered are white and black in gloss, satin and flat in each color only on this givaway. LED color will be red as shown. I can send you a link to buy a different color if you so desire. Dimensions are: 1.5" Hex with an installed height of 2" Some Installed pics. These are the old design and fitted with RGB LED's
  3. Finally, I get to build something for myself :D The opportunity presented itself after Cooler Master sent me their new Mastercase 5 ($109.99) to evaluate and brainstorm retail accessories / bolt-on custom parts as part of their "Make it Yours" campaign. The Mastercase Pro is the same chassis as mastercase 5, but includes window panel and top cover for $139.99. If I kept waiting for personal time to build a PC for myself, it would have never happened due to lack of free time. I have to admit, I didn't like the Mastercase at first. I captured mod zoo staff unbox Mastercase 5 / Pro in my VLOG. I feel Cooler Master missed a lot of details that could have made the case even better. Especially since CM marketed it as "modular" and designed for DIY liquid cooling. It falls 40% from it's marketing pitch, but the overall build quality and finish is outstanding and eventually won me over after dismantling and re-assembling the case. Here is my final thoughts about the Mastercase, keeping in mind that I look at cases from perspective as PC Customizer and Case Modder. RAVES: *Overall Build Quality, Fit & finish. *Top panel / cover design options are nice. *Modular HD/SSD tray design and mounting options are best to date. *240/360/280 radiator option for front is nice. My suggestions REVISIONS: *Top radiator mounting location should be offset, to clear DDR slots on some motherboards *100% Riveted chassis?! I understand using rivets over screws to save time in manufacturing, but at minimum, the mid section floor should be removable for better access. *Lack of Water pump and reservoir mounting. CM's competitors started embracing DIY cooling market over year ago, by including mounting options for reservoirs and water pumps. *Mastercase 5/ Pro window panel is very flimsy. The "smoked" poly window is bluish/purple and has very poor clarity for viewing inside the case. Inspiration for the custom painted exterior will be the 1970 Porsche 917 from Steve McQueen's "Le Mans" movie. His 917 from the movie was chassis #022 and purchased in 1970 from Porsche by Steve McQueen's movie production company, Solar Productions. It was also the company that would bring the movie "Le Mans" to the big screen. This is the car that McQueen's character, Michael Delaney, starts the race in, and "crashes" late in the race, "writing the car off." The car that was crashed was really a Lola T-70, painted and rebodied, to look like a 917. Many innovations in cinematography, were first tried in this movie. They even went so far, as to weld brackets to the front frame work of the 917, so they could mount a camera to shoot Steve, and the other drivers, in the cockpit. I'll replacing the #20 with #5 to represent the Mastercase 5 and using this clear side panel. Cooler Master Mastercase 5 Chassis assembled with final coat of Gulf Racing Blue paint from 1970 Porsche 917 race car. Custom paint by Brad Galvin at DirtDesignsGraphic Porsche 917 inspired graphics are finished on the Cooler Master Mastercase 5 / Pro. Next stage is clearcoating everything.
  4. PC case feet will help improve airflow and ventilation beneath your PC. This guide is by request! Mnpctech Custom PC Case Feet installation with a Mid Tower with power supply sitting on small adhesive pads on floor of chassis. In this guide, I'm installing the computer case feet in the RIOTORO CR480 Mid Tower. I've seen this type of PSU mounting in the ANTEC 300 and Cooler Master HAF 912 Mid tower cases. You can cut two of the included 8/32 machine screws to 1-1/16" (27mm) and insert screw into the two rear factory foot mounting holes. Some case designs won't the 1" diameter washers included with "Diamond Knurl" PC case feet, so you may need washer with 8/32 hole and 1/4" outer diameter as shown in these photos for the RIOTORO CR480 Mid Tower. 4x Billet CNC Machined Aluminum "Diamond Knurl" Case Feet b y Mnpctech. Thick hard rubber foot insert helps prevent vibration and protect your desk or work station. Base Diameter = 1- 3/4", Height = 1" Set Includes: 4, billet machined aluminum covers, 4, thick rubber feet, 4, 8/32 machine screw nuts & bolts. Tools & Supplies *Ruler for measuring two screws to be shortened to 1-1/16" (27mm) *Hacksaw with bi-metal cutting blade to shorten *Hand file for cleaning end of shortened screws *Phillips screw driver for tightening case feet screws. *(Optional) 2x 8/32 washers with 1/4" diameter as shown in these photos Shortened 8/32 screws shown with 8/32 hole, 1/4" outter diameter washers Insert the included 8/32 nut into two of feet that will mount under the PSU. Tighten the nuts by turning the case feet. washer with 8/32 hole and 1/4" outer diameter
  5. “The man in black fled across the desert and the gunslinger followed.” The opening line from The Gunslinger, the first book in Stephen Kings epic that follows the quest of Roland Deschain, the Gunslinger, for the Dark Tower. The Dark Tower series has to be my favorite, mixing western, sci-fi, apocalypse, magic, the current world, and quite a few characters from King's other books, and even King himself, into one big stew of a story. It's amazing. *Except for the lobster things. Da-da-chum. I hated Stephen King for a few days after that. If you've read the stories, you'll know. But with the new Dark Tower movie slated to come out next year and the stars of that movie tweeting things like: And even King telling us that this is the next time around... I haven't been this excited for a movie for a while. And with so much story to take from, I thought, this might be a great idea for a mod. Or even two... So let's get started on The Gunslinger.
  6. Original Project Started: Oct., 2009 Status: Ongoing "Hikeeba!" If that statement means something to you or perhaps you have a sense of déjà vu, you may be a MSTie or perhaps have MSTie-like tendencies. See, I'm a MSTie too. And a hardcore one at that. So hardcore that when my most favorite TV show of all-time was canceled (for good), I actually cried. I'm not joking. Yeah....laugh it up, wise-ass! Anyways, that is how psychotic about the show I was. *stands up and hangs head in shame* "My name is Jeremy, and I am a MSTie." *muttering hello in loose unison* I've built bots too. Sad, huh? I would be considered an ultimate dork when it comes to that. I've watched every episode of the show repeatedly over the years, and when I'm down or depressed about whatever, I know I can rely on Joel/Mike and the bots to cheer me up. They got me through some very dark years in my life. I'm tackling a theme I've been wanting to do for years that's never been done properly before in a case-mod that I've ever seen. Perhaps someone's tried, but nothing posted anywhere that I can find that's worth a squirt. So, I present to you for your possible acceptance...a mod project dedicated to the greatest cowtown-puppet show that ever graced the boob-tube: Mystery Science Theater 3000! I'm building this for my younger brother, who doesn't know about it. Mostly because he's deep in concentration (hopefully) at a university working on his last year there. He doesn't have a computer either. At least, one that's worth a . I think he's still on a skt. 478 celery. :hehe: That sucks, doesn't it? I'm trying to fix that problem. I don't have any hardware or anything, so I'm just concentrating on the case itself. That's probably going to be it too, so who knows! So let's get started, shall we? :D Have a seat in the theater! Grab some popping corn. Wrestle with your over-packaged candies so you annoy and irritate all the other movie-goers with the rustling sound of cellophane right at the moment when it's really really quiet. :hehe: Don't you hate that? Me too! It makes me want to lick a gummy-bear and toss it at the culprit. Nah...not anymore. Those days are over in fear of being thrown out. Now, I just slash your tires! Oh, wait-- ...nevermind. "Join us, won't you?" The chassis that I'm going to be tearing down and rebuilding is a long-extinct AMS CF-1006. I've used this chassis many times before. I had a small cache of them too when I bought a few for closeout prices, along with it's bigger brother, the CF-1009 (which I also have one left). I'm down to my last CF-1006. So I figured I'd do something as a 'swan-song' of sorts with it. Some of you that know my past work know I tend to spend some time on things to make it right. It's not a race, and I don't plan on changing that anytime soon! I'm going for something fun this time. Something that will bring a smile to my brother's face and perhaps some of you as well. Me? Well, I'm never happy with any of my mods, which is why I continue to pursue that 'perfect mod', which ironically doesn't exist. I'm sort of taking the "Bill Owen" method here and attacking the case impromptu without much planning. Although I do have a plan, sorta. So I guess it's not like Bill. Nevermind. I have a basic outline of what I'm doing, but I keep changing my mind on stuff. So I guess we'll see where things go, alright! Stop pestering me! :hehe: Here's an early concept design on where I'm going with it... Now, here's the actual case. I've used this particular case as a test-bed in the past; checking measurements on things, etc. It's been used as a test-pig for a couple projects I can recall directly, like my Biohazard project for instance. First step, anyways, is to replace that crappy stock acrylic/aluminum front plate. Yuck! I decided finally that the background piece was going to be aluminum first, because it's nice and sturdy and strong like a good little boy that eats his veggies! Here's a concept drawing of it... I decided at the last moment I'd ditch the embedded rheobus and replace it with a couple rocker switches for lighting control instead. I have a bad habit of thinking like the old-school watercooler that I am, so I'm always adding fan control stuff where it's just not needed. This will most-likely be an aircooled rig, and considering the sheer size and capability of the fans being utilized, I just won't need fan control. The mobo's capabilities are just fine for this. Alright, on to the actual piece! Just prior to heading up north for a small hiatus/get-together with mod-god Bill Owen, I finished the design work on the plate so I'll have the files ready. While up with Bill, we went by the machinist's place to take care of the plate real quick. We had some other things to talk about with the machinist anyways, but nothing I have the authorization to speak about yet. :D Raw material on the bed... And a few mins. later, there she is! Man, look at all that 120mm fan punch-out scrap! :hehe: A lot of MNPCTech billet grills resulted from that stuff. Anyways, here's the finished bezel. What I wasn't prepared for was how close my measurements were in my design. Sometimes I scare even myself! :hehe: Now, let's see how a 200mm fan will work there... heh heh heh. Now for some fun stuff! The stock case unfortunately came with a window in it. Normally I'd prefer to make my own. Well, I decided I'd try to turn that frown upside down and roll with the punches. :D Let's see what kind of clearance on the backside of the panel I have... Wow, that's close! But perfectly fine. Actually, I set the file up to make sure it fit right in the nook inside those rounded-metal guides. And a little test-install here. Threaded some 8-32 screws with some nuts on the backside to see how the panel looks. That's what I like to see! Measurements all spot-on. And finally, let's stick it back on the case and see how it roughly looks... Yes! And it's good! ------------- Thank you to: ------------- Thanks for watchin'!
  7. The term “To Mothball” is military in origin, it's definition translates to - "Held in reserve against a time when it may be necessary to call back into service" Say hello to my Mothball :D What we have here is the chassis of a Silverstone PS07 (Precision Series), I last used this chassis about 15 months ago - more often as not I give away or sell all my old cases, this one however I kept as in my honest opinion it is one of the most versatile mATX chassis ever made (along with it's sibling the TJ08). The one down side to the PS07 is it's cheap and ugly stock case front, Silverstone certainly did it no favours here (the TJ08 fairs much better in this respect); I kinda destroyed mine whilst zeroing in the scope on a firearm a while ago (I sh*t you not lol). Soooo the first order of business in the project will be to create a new one, my inspirations for this stage of the build are our very own E.E.L. Ambiense and Cheapskate; both never cease to amaze me - Eel for his ability to recycle, take to the brink of destruction and create miracles and Cheaps to create anything from what basically amounts to nothing. Did I also mention that to create the aforementioned case front I’ll be using nothing except the materials I have lying around and with the exception of a new motherboard everything else will be donated if you like from another build... More to follow soon
  8. *stands up sheepishly* Hi everyone, My name is Peter and it has been ten years since my last mod For, my first those of you who don't know me (I've been a weak-ass forum participant), My first ever 'proper' case mod was called Refurb - back in the Pimprig days: My last mod (2007) was a DVR that I had built out of a shuttle case and PS2 screen: Things have changed a bit since then though - nowadays, I don't really have the time or motivation to maintain a custom water loop or change out my hardware every month like I used to. I tend to do video editing, VFX and motion graphics in my spare time and have been using an (ugly) Silverstone Raven RV01 that I had been given to review back in 2008. Before you judge me too harshly, I just needed a quiet, stable workstation that would do the job I need it to do - nothing fancy (obviously) Anyway - enough of the public shaming - I've had an opportunity to get back on the mod programme thanks to a generous donation of a Corsair H100i AIO loop from an anonymous benefactor who shall remain nameless (unless he calls himself out here). You see, my CPU is struggling with the summer heat and the stock Intel AIO watercooler that I've shoehorned into the case just isn't cutting it (did I say enough with the shaming? Guess I may have been wrong there....) I have also switched out my wife's PC internals into a smaller case and am in the fortunate position of having a spare, empty Silverstone FT01 case which I reviewed years ago. It's not the best designed case out there (you can't take the 'removable' top fan filter out!!) but the internals are all attached with screws - which is great from a modding standpoint. The plan will be to move my gear out of the Raven and into this - making a few modifications beforehand in order to accommodate the H100i and possibly use up some of my old case moddding supplies that I have lying around (I'm a bit of a hoarder of useful things) Oh, for my last bit of public shaming: where I am living, I don't have space to put my PC on my desk... So on the floor it has to go. Lights and flashy stuff are unlikely to be happening, but we'll see Anyway - let's get into this. The case internals are pretty standard. I've removed the drive cage that sits between the 5.25" and lower drive bays as well as the 200mm fans in the roof and front. I'm planning of either ditching the 5.25" bays or trimming them down to keep the top one (maybe two). Unscrewing the 5.25" drive bay housing, I can get the Power/HDD Led assembly taken out to see what I have to work with: Thinking on where to place the radiator, I was considering mounting it above the 3.5" cage; making a mount out of the 5.25" bay housing. The plus side to this would be that it leaves room for fans to push air through the radiator as well as the option for pull fans to be added: The downside to this though is that I don't have the option of having a DVD drive in the machine - which I use surprisingly often - and that I'd need to install a bare fan in the lower section to move air over the 3x HDD's. Option B was to install the radiator and fan in the space between the HDD cage and the front - which is a very tight fit: The plus side is that I get the 5.25'' bay option back but it's tight and I'd have issues with having room for radiator mesh in the front. I decided to make a couple of temporary mounts by cutting out the strip of metal on the front (it was always going to be taken out anyway) to test fit things and help me decide. Messing around, I actually found that I liked the idea of mounting the radiator externally - Usually I don't go for that kind of look but this one had appeal for some reason. I'm running with it and will be doing a couple of aesthetic and practical things as well to (hopefully) help it fit in That's it for now - next update soon!
  9. Our Weekly Hangout with Mod Zoo Munky Staffers, Droug, Bill & Mosquito. We talk about PC hardware and other fun stuff. Don't miss our next hangout by subscribing to our YouTube Channel
  10. The Nidec-Servo's Scythe Gentle Typhoon (Model# D122C). This fan has been regarded as the best static pressure optimized fan by DIY PC community since it's release in 2008. The original D122C is no longer made, but there is limited stock available at some online retailers. Last year the D122C Scythe GT fan was resurrected and manufactured as "Darkside Black Edition" by Dazmode. It's the same specs as the original, but now has Black fan blades. Many PC Modders including myself have painted these fans to fit the color schemes of our custom PC builds. I've been asked several times over the years how to remove the metal c-clip without losing or breaking it?*This is my DIY guide to removing and installing external retaining ring or c-clip. Like many others, I've also lost these tiny c-clips while learning the best technique for handling this task. Nidec-Servo's Scythe Gentle Typhoon Factory Spec PDF link, http://www.nidec-servo.com/en/digital/pdf/D1225C.pdf* Speed: *2150RPM Air performance : 68.8CFM Nose: 34db (25cm from the fan, free air) Power: 12VDC, 0.123A (0.63A peak max) Operational voltage range: 5-12V (~900rpm-2150rpm) Bearing: Ball Expected life: 100000h/35c or 55000h/60c Appearance: Full black Dimensions: *119 x 119 x 25 mm / 4.68 x 4.68 x 0.98 in WARNING: Perform this task with Safety Glasses, the tiny Black metal retaining ring (c-clip) can and likely will pop off, so perform this task in a clean workspace, so you can find it. I suggest doing the work on a large white bed sheet and holding a large magnet near the fan hub as you remove and re-install the c-clip, to increase you're chances of not losing the c-clip. I haven't found a source for ordering replacement c-clips yet, but I'm still searching. Here is my suggested Tools & Supplies Safety Glasses (not pictured) Heat Gun for removing the fan label. Hair Dryer on HIGH setting will work as well. 10" Wire Cable Tie Large magnet (not pictured) External Fixed-Tip Retaining Ring Pliers, http://www.saeproducts.com/retaining-ring-tool.html Tweezers Needle Nose Pliers Super Glue (not pictured) External Fixed-Tip Retaining Ring Pliers, http://www.saeproducts.com/retaining-ring-tool.html The fan blade looks as if it would snap-on and off, but not the case. We need to remove the back label to access the external metal c-clip on the fan shaft. Swipe heat gun or hair dryer back and forth over the label. Use the Tweezer to peel off the fan label. Stick the fan label on a clean metal surface while you perform your work. You will tie down the fan hub with this Twisty tie. The fan shaft has a retention spring inside. You need to compress this spring, so you can remove the metal c-clip. If you don't, it's almost a guarantee that the c-clip will fly off the shaft faster than a bullet. Using Twisty tie to compress the fan hub spring, by tying down the hub to the fan frame. Close ups of the Black metal c-clip inside the Scythe Gentle Typhoon.
  11. My Fractal Design Define R5 case mod. n00b's first complete water cooling build. (Short back story) So I had every intention of spending my weekend putting together a build log showing progress made on my first water cooled and modded computer build. ...BUT... Last night I completed the water cooling loop and the system started up with no problem. I was super nervous water would just start gushing everywhere, but the system didn't have any leaks and booted without any issues What's the first thing you do after water cooling your PC? OVERCLOCK! I figured I'd play it safe, since its only a Z97-AR, and used Asus' automatic overclocking utility in the Ai Suite. The system reboots a couple times, which is expected. On the third reboot my computer did not come back on. I instantly had a bad feeling about this, like it was more than just a little Windows 10 quirk. When I tried to turn on my PC again it posted fine, gave me the DEL or F12 to BIOS option (which did not work), and afterwards I got a message saying "Data in the EC or EC cash may be corrupt". WHAT THE HECK?! I checked all of the usual things. I did the routine CMOS jumper, battery, power supply, change ram, unplug non-essentials, blah, blah blah. Nothing has worked. So I got the pleasure of wasting all of my previous work and taking apart my nearly finished system so I can try to fix the motherboard. Waiting for a reply from Asus as to what I should do. I'm hoping they will have an easy fix or will be able to replace my board. I was/am so upset about the situation that I figured posting something will make me feel like I've actually accomplished something. So here are the exterior shots of my case. The design is rather simple. 3 blow holes with MnPCtech overkill fan grills and the MnPCtech machined side panel. Eventually there will be a digital thermometer display behind the front cover that can be seen through the middle fan grill. Other than that I don't plan on doing much more to the exterior. My aesthetic tends to be rather simple and clean as opposed to the flash computers that will turn heads and I'm OK with that. The rest of the build will come soon. I'm sure it will be right after I get tired of waiting and go to Microcenter for a new motherboard. ------
  12. Homefront: The Revolution is the sequel to Homefront, an open world first-person shooter video game developed by Dambuster Studios and published by Deep Silver. The game is scheduled to be released on May 17, 2016 in U.S. and May 20, 2016 in Europe for Linux, Microsoft Windows, OS X, PlayStation 4, and Xbox One. This Corsair 380T "Homefront The Revolution" custom gaming PC Case Mod created in collaboration with mod zoo members @cheapskate @Cheapskate and @ToddK. Cheapskate engineered the corsair 380T case modifications from concept to reality. Todd developed a hardware monitoring app with similar GUI to the app used to hack the KPA networks by the Liberty7 resistance. I'll be revealing more about this later, but you're welcome to check out Todd's website and use his app, HOMEFRONT PC STATS ENGINE The general idea is to achieve a look and feel that matches the modern, high-tech KPA materials and utilities that has been taken over by the resistance. We're going to combine a special shape of the case that could be used for military purposes in the field with the stealth angular look of the APEX manufactured vehicles and material textures that are used for both, person armor and utilities. To achieve the resistance look we will scratch off the KPA/APEX logos and text a device like that would normally have and overwrite or spay it with resistance signs and symbols. I've chosen Corsair 380T's ITX case for this project for it's portability and excellent build quality. The 380T allows you to fit a 240mm radiator for cooling your CPU. The Corsair 380T I/O panel includes power, reset, headphone, mic, and two USB 3.0 and fan controller. The new side panels designed by Cheapskate for the 380T will be cnc milled from aluminum to replace the factory plastic version. This is being done so we have a stronger structure to add armored layers of material Closer look at the 380T side panel. It's molded from smoked polycarbonate with perforated mesh overlay. The "Homefront; The Revolution" case mod will have the look and feel of a portable field operation. The shock protection seen on the super drones will shroud portions of the Corsair 380T case. The shock protection rails will be cnc machined from aluminum. Front of the Corsair 380T case. This screen shot of Cheap's sketchup illustrates how the milled shock protection rails will be attached to the bottom of the Corsair 380T. This diagram illustrates more of the exterior guard rails and front plate that will hold the cell phone in place. Stay Tuned for update soon!
  13. Parts - Thermaltake Core V1 (Black) - i7-4770K - EVGA Stinger Z87 - G. Skill Ares 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3 2400MHz - Thermaltake Water 3.0 Extreme - Corsair RM750 - EVGA GTX 780 I used the 240mm stencil as reference. At first I wanted to mount the radiator on the side panel, but then I realized I could fit 2x120mm case fans in the front and remove the 200mm case fan. If I choose the side panel, I will cut a square and mount a red acrylic window. I'm still debating where I want to place the radiator. Front or side panel. Decisions, decisions...
  14. I tried something new last week. I tweeted video clips as I created this DIY guide. Everything, but the Intro & Outro graphics were recorded on my iphone 6s @ 60fps and I used YouTube's Video Editor to piece the clips together without any effects. The audio quality could be improved upon, but it sufficed just fine for this guide.
  15. Hi guys I have a question. You make these Laser cut Black Acrylic Radiator Grills: Do you plan to do these in any other colours? I'd be interested in clear ones? Many thanks in advance.
  16. Bass Instinct Hey Monkey's I'm finally getting going on a new build. I had a false start on a Corsair 250 D But life got in the way and I'm not sure I'm man enough to do the things I want to do in a Mini ITX case. The Victim of my affection is a Lian li PC-V359. This is a Micro ATX case, but I will be using a Mini ATX board so I will have a little extra room for cooling gear and I like the square proportions, compared to the Mini version of this case. The case I ordered was Black with black Pillars. The Case I got was Black with Red Pillars, I kinda liked that model too so I'm going to go with it. Funny in the Lian li literature the red is more of a fire engine red, but this anodized red is a much better tone of red - Sold. One of the interesting things about this Case is that the top and all four sides slide in and out of the corner pillars to give easy access it opens up a myriad of options for modding. I had a huge sheet of thick Deep Red Acrylic so the first thing i did was make a replacement top window. I know there are a million red and black builds out there, but that's because it looks good, I'll just have to find a way to keep it from being boring. MnpcTech sent me out a set of their beautiful case feet. These feet were made for this case and improved the look over the factory feet, which weren't bad. These may end up getting painted in the end, but I'll wait on that decision until I see how all the colors are blending. I tapped the Case so I could spin the feet on and off easier, but they come with hardware for easy mounting to anything. Ok I admit it, I just like tapping threads whenever possible. My love to thick material is a painful affair when you do your work with basic hand tools. I just like the depth the thick materials add to the look, But there is a price to be paid! I cut out my basic shapes with a Jig Saw and Dremel and then refine the shapes with files and sanding. Not the easiest way to do things, but My setup allows me to watch movies while I'm filling away. My Initial plan for the front was to stack Aluminum on top of the Red Acrylic with the Acrylic just sticking out a little further than the aluminum. Ok planning is not one of my strong suits. What I hadn't anticipated was that my thick stack of materials took away the distinctive angles of the corner pillars sticking out further than the case front. The pillars really make the look of this case, so this wasn't going to work. At this point I am dropping the Acrylic layer and I beveled the edges of the Aluminum to match the angles of the pillars. I had cut the Aluminum wider around the window and now that I removed the lower layer I will have to adapt it to match up better. I started adding some bling to the Aluminum sheet. This is closer than the picture shows, but it was hard to align the camera up perfectly. Not bad considering the tools used to do this with. I really want a Scroll Saw, but I don't want to buy a cheap one that I'll end up hating. So until then I'll just keep doing what I do. I continue to refine this piece. I plan to put lite Acrylic on the inside of the case behind The ROG Logo and Mesh behind the volume bars. I think this piece will be painted in the end. Here is a size comparison between the Lian li case and a 250D. I had originally bought 2 - 250 D cases, I build this straight build in a day, Most of that was hiding wires. I was going to Mod the second case and then transfer the kit, But life got in the way and I never pulled the trigger on the Mod. The New case is more inspiring to me and there aren't 500 of them that have already been Modded. Anyway It is so good to be back into a build, This one is just for the pleasure of Modding, No time limit, no pressure Thanks for checking out the build.
  17. Proudly sponsored by This Is a corporative Build By Mike - Onevoicewild and Sam - Do Until Loopy My original plan was to build a large case, I felt so cramped in my 800D. Dx I can see Confusis rolling his eyes now :o Actually I have a thing for big cases and big fans. Originally I was looking at a Lian Li PC-D8000 with a heavily modified front fascia and interior. This is only important because it will probably determine some of the components that will be used on the Metallica build as two special grills were ordered and paid for before we switched to the Corsair case. Now anyone with any common sense would Mod a case that they could actually get! Lack of common sense has never stopped me before, besides modding Imaginary cases is funner - Ya right Mod your own PC with supplies from Mnpctech! http://www.mnpctech.com Mnpctech also offers 240mm version of the Overkill Nautilus grill, http://mnpctech.com/pc-computer-alphacool-ek-bitspower-hardwarelabs-heatkiller-liquid-cooling/mnpctech-overkill-240-nautilus-fan-and-radiator-grill.html Mnpctech also offers 360mm version of the Overkill Open Ring grill, http://mnpctech.com/pc-computer-alphacool-ek-bitspower-hardwarelabs-heatkiller-liquid-cooling/mnpctech-overkill-360-open-ring-fan-and-radiator-grill.html I want to give a special thanks to MNPCTECH for making some Very special OverKill grills for this build. The plan is to use two 200mm fans and Nautilus grills on the front and a quad ring Overkill grill in the side. To my knowledge this is the first time that Bill has made a 200mm Nautilus or a quad ring grill. I'll get this out of the way now, I am an MNPCTECH fan boy! What can I say I dig this stuff. The Mod Zoo had a new member at that time named Do Until Loopy actual name is Sam in the UK. He had posted to do free 3D rendering so he could get practice on Solid works software. After several days of no one jumping on it I contacted him. After talking we decided to look into doing a render from my basic ideas on the upcoming Corsair 900D. In my naïve view of what this was, I thought he would build a box and stick a couple of grills on it so I could see what it looked like. Wow did I underestimate what Sam could do. He basically built the whole computer, inside and out Including the parts. Most of you have seen some of the pictures. What went on behind the scene was 100 messages sorting out some of my crazy Ideas, a friendship built and my amazement at how much work Sam put into this for someone he didn't even Know. Sam has my total respect. The only thing I can do to pay Sam back it to build our Brain child. Ohh God I gotta build this thing! Sam's brain works like a physician with exact precision, I'm more like a lumber jack with an Ax and a Chain Saw, mixed with the stubbornness of a bull. I do most of my work by hand, Not because it's some sort of higher Art form! That is a bunch of bull. I just have to balance the costs of what new tools I can afford and still be able to buy Parts to use them on, Plus right now I have more time than money. Now lets Get to the good part and let Sam show you some of the renderings and then I'll fill in on the current progress on our Imaginary case.
  18. Hello everybody! As some of you may know, I have been working closely with Bill Owen at MNPCTech over the past year learning and soaking up as much as I can as his intern. We have done several case reviews and mod guides together, and it is time for me to step it up a notch and take on a big themed build. - Theme - This is going to be influenced by oldschool Star Wars, and specifically Rebel Alliance equipment. I love the look of their gear, machinery, technology, and spacecraft, so this will take many ideas from that. We're starting with the Cosmos II, and will end up with something that looks dramatically different in the end. I first must thank CoolerMaster for the sponsorship of the Cosmos II and Silent Pro Hybrid 1300w powersupply, EK for sponsoring the watercooling components, Lutro0 for sponsoring their beautiful sleeving work, Mayhems for supplying their world class coolants and dyes, Cheapskate for dedicating his time into designing custom waterblocks for the 680s, Brian Garrity for his time as the camera man for the upcoming video of this project, and of course Bill and MNPCTech for everything he has taught me and given me during my time working with him. Part 1 Part 2 Part 3 - Components - Asus Rampage IV Extreme Intel 3930k Quad SLI GTX 680 Classified's 32gb of Corsair Dominator 2133mhz CoolerMaster Silent Pro Hybrid 1300w 512gb Vertex 4 SSD 3x 3tb Seagate 7,200rpm storage drives Cosmos II Full dual loop EK watercooling setup with custom GPU waterblocks designed by our very own CheapskateSupremacy Elite socket 2011 Nickel CPU blockR4E Nickel CSQ mobo block2x Ram Dominator X4 blocks2x 480 XT radiators2x DDC-3.2TP pumps2x X3 150mm resBlack Nickel fittingsCustom Classified blocks by munkeybuttTime for the pics to do the talking! The Cosmos II It's a bird. It's a plane... Cosmos II opened up - I hate that mess of useless feces dangling there. The build will feature MNPCTech's new Cosmos II Full Acrylic window side panel! Available soon for order. This is a serious chunk of acrylic! Here is what the Clear side panel looks like installed on the Cosmos II. It's cnc machined from .5" thick Chemcast Cast Acrylic with two 120mm fan holes with fastener holes for your own fan grills. Mnpctech Pre-Ordering page for Cooler Master Cosmos II Clear Window Panel Mnpctech Pre-Ordering page for Cooler Master Cosmos II Clear Window Panel We also created a Clear replacement window for the Corsair c70 replacement window kit http://mnpctech.com/mnpctech-clear-case-pc-panels/corsair-c70-window-replacement-clear-fan-holes-120mm/corsair-c70-custom-window.html Machined aluminum "Diamond Knurl" pc case feet which are made in HAAS cnc lathe. The base diameter is 1- 3/4" with height of 1" to elevate the case for improved airflow beneath it. They've been painted House of Kolor Kandy Red to fit the Rebel Alliance color scheme A few components going into the system Classified unboxing These cards are bigger than 690's... Shiny! Why is quad sli not overkill? 6000x1080-across-three-monitors-gaming is why. Even the Rebel Alliance has to game from time to time! Stripping down the CMII for some modding. Taping off the top to cut room for a 480mm rad. Lining up the top rad Cages removed to make room for a 480mm rad in the front Creating the mounting system for the 480 in the front bezel Rad mounted into front bezel. I will be doing more in between the rad and the edges to make it more connected. Front rad mounted in the case I wanted to do something special with the edge frame work, so I decided on cutting out slots and putting some modders mesh behind it Clamping down the mesh for some epoxying This stuff is the best for all kinds of modding. Epoxy of the gods I say! Removing the stock top panel mesh Mounting a hinge on the top panel for some flap movement Watercooling time! Supremacy 2011 block and black nickel fittings I love the frosty tops on these blocks! DDC's and tops An army of black nickel fittings! So prettttttty! -- Updates 1/1/13 -- Thanks for following guys! Here are some updates on what is in the works... Measuring out pieces to make dual res holder from 1/4" thick Black Opaque acrylic sheet Custom Dual Res tube holder for the EK Res X3s EK Res X3s, ready for mounting What remains of the factory front I/O, this was part of the CM II's top panel. This will flip open. Modified "Laurey" style cabinet hinge, this spring loaded, and found at WoodCraft, http://www.woodcraft....ount-Pair.aspx Spacer for hinge made from 1/8" acrylic, this will be painted later Dual EK Res X3s mounted. This location will be ideal when it's time to fill the two loops. The flip cover, creates easy access for inspecting the loops, if ever needed in the future. The rear cover flips open now too! I wanted to use an ipod touch for monitoring and fan control. This will be mounted in the front top panel and running through the Bitfenix Recon phone app. Making the front phone mount Initial looks of the front phone fan control module. Think Luke Skywalker's targeting computer ;)/> Custom shroud for the reservoirs -- Update 1/6/13 -- Update time! I appreciate the comments and follows guys! I'm very dedicated to making this a very clean build internally, which is why shrouding everything is a must. I also want to keep the interior of the case very open and uncluttered, so there will be next to nothing inside the main compartment other than the mobo and what's attached to it. No drives, pumps, anything located here. It's all about the aesthetics! Cutting 1/4" thick cast acrylic to use as a shroud for the lower portion of the chassis 1/4" acrylic over lower portion which will be easily removable with thumbscrews, 1/8" acrylic shroud on back wall will hide liquid tubing The mid section has 1/2" thick acrylic floor so it's flush with the outter edge of the chassis Using weld-on to attach lip to the tubing shroud for the back wall of the chassis, this will be painted later to match the exterior of the case. Temporarily installing Mnpctech's CM II clear panel to determine the two 120mm fan hole openings in the removable lower chassis shroud The two 120mm fan hole openings are aligned with opening in the clear panel The epoxy on the side bezels has dried and I really like how they look with the mesh Now it's time to do the same thing with the non-window'ed side panel. Cutting the double layered panel was a bit of a challenge, but it's cleaned up and time for more epoxy. I plan to mount an acrylic Rebel Alliance logo on the mesh and illuminate it. As far as the custom classified waterblocks are concerned, Cheapskate has made great progress (though he has reminded me how complex these little buggers are going to be ;)/> This is current design phase with an "X Wing" style backplate that will have the Rebel Alliance logo in the red circle. The layers in the pic are backplate, full copper block, acrylic top, and stainless top cover. Update 2/21/13 Here are screen shots of the custom water blocks and liquid channeled bridge designed by Cheapskate. The blocks will be milled from Copper with Clear acrylic cover and top plate with design inspired by X-Wing fighter wing.These are for Andrew's eVga 680 GTX Classified graphics cards. More to come soon! We'll have a video worklog as well, so make sure you subscribe to MNPCTech's Youtube Channel! Yesterday I made Red Overlay to match the color scheme and installed Andrew's Aquaero into the shroud for the chassis. Aqua Computer's Aquaero product page, http://www.aquacompu.../aquaero-5.html Removing masking tape over window for phoyba RGB light strip Cutting Red Transparent Acrylic Window sheet into overlay for the Aqua Computer Aquaero 6/32 countersink drill bit for the Torx head screws on the Aquaro and installed Phoyba RGB light strip on the side... Update 3/26/13 Aquaero Shroud - Leak Testing Waterblocks on the Asus Rampage 4 Motherboard Milling the front 480 radiator grill bezel from 1.5" thick block of 6061 billet. The backside has been hollowed out, to save weight. the design was inspired by jet engine intake, but
  19. Took my original 500 gig Xbox One an stuffed it into an NZXT Phantom530 case I got from Bill at MNPCTECH. I have pictures of the case before & After ( stock Xbox ONE case & NZXT Phantom530 )
  20. Jump to final photos if you're too impatient to read the journey! CPU Magazine Volume 14 - Issue 12 (December 2014) Welcome to Project Clunk! I must begin by issuing an apology for the seemingly jumpy posts, as I didn't intend on making a project log for this at first but was told I should, so I figured, "why not?" I should also mention that this mod was started the second day of January 2013, working on it on my free time during lunches, etc. and then it sat in a box in the shop for a few months until I continued work on it a couple weeks ago in secret, so the log may be confusing at 1st. I will be using spare parts I have left in the EEL shop so I can clean out some of it and give it a good home too. Also, it will be decked out with a lot of MNPCtech gear so keep your eyes peeled for those! This project won't be too extravagant or expensive either, hence the budget kind of feel to things. Which also makes things interesting to me because I like to flex the creative muscle for no money (other than time invested). This is a project for a friend based on a Bitfenix Outlaw chassis.... or what's left of one anyways... The story begins... Toward the end of last year, (somewhere around November I believe?) I was handed what was left of this case by Hank @ PPCs as it came in on a shipment of RMA cases from misc. retailers in the US on behalf of Bitfenix, and my initial reaction was to turn my nose up at it due to the low-tier case and horrid condition it was in with the stock front fascia busted completely off and pieces hanging left and right from it, dented panels, etc. But the more I looked at the case, the more I felt compelled to just destroy it. And that's not meant in a negative manner either, although I didn't really like the case to begin with due to the thin materials and low cost, but what really caught my eye was the inverted-ATX layout versus size. It's no big secret that I'm a fan of the inverted-ATX layout. I love it for watercooling! I had promised my friend Duke (whose favorite color is GREEN) that I would build him something sometime for him to transplant his *namebrand MATX AMD system* (cough cough) into a "better enclosure", and figured this was a perfect opportunity to do so. My initial idea was to build something kind of post-apocalyptic (due to working on BIO-A10 at the time) or something and it quickly moved to putting it loosely in the Mad Max arena, hence the name. It's just a name borrowed from a character from Mad Max, but nothing to do with the character. It just clicked in place and fit the idea perfectly. It's my take on the idea of it being a part of the gangs that the MFP tends to run down in those flicks -- or at least try to. So it's an anti-MFP build! ;) I should also place the disclaimer that this wasn't an idea stolen from Bill at all; I found it hilarious that he mentioned doing a Mad Max build sometime in the future on a past podcast and I decided to stay silent about it at the time so it would be a surprise when I finally unveiled this. I suppose insane minds think alike! So, just think of Clunk as merely an appetizer for whatever Bill has up his sleeve. I'm guessing something MFP related too. :) Can't wait for it! Let's get on with it, shall we? This is the POS chassis. Lovely, isn't it? I actually liked the way the case looked without the stock panel on it anyways, because those cheap plasticy front panels are a dime-a-dozen to me. I'll be fabricating a new front for the case. It's rather small, considering it an ATX chassis. I'm a packrat by nature, if some of you didn't already know, so I tend to keep a lot of weird things I remove off past cases. I also happen to keep a lot of solid materials that I can use, and I happened to have a front panel off a destroyed Lian Li V-2100B. And look, it also happens to be just the right size for a new front panel! The ridged nature to the panel also adds a certain coolness for it to me too, considering it's just a piece of aluminum (aluminium for Kyle)! And the 1st in a substantial jump forward... Here's what I've been up to with the opposite-mobo side panel... I'll be back when I have more to show after I've ripped the guts out of it and given it the B-Jesus! Thanks for wasting some of your time reading this hog-wash! Toodles!
  21. Hello all, I just wanted to say that I'm happy to be a part of the forums and hope to give as much as I bring to the table. In this log I we will began cosmetic construction to a Antec 1900 Case that we actually purchased from MNPCTECH.COM a few weeks ago. Lots of potential in this case but, seem to be made with an old school attitude of case applications. But, yet and still it will be a fun project to work with and see what can be done. The plan is to place a good water cooling system with in the case and paint it Green...hmmm, simply enough, right. So, Lets get started with a short video http://youtu.be/wb9_NK2feXg
  22. Jump to final photos! Well, hello! *waves* Hm, what's that? ...Ah, yes. LilyPC. Yeah... See, here's the thing. It was time to move on. The project was simply too big in size. That's it. That's the reason. The thing is she's a kid. Giving her a watercooled setup probably isn't the smartest thing to do, nevermind the simplicity of the loop, etc. She's a kid. So I decided to go a different direction. And I've considered the original project abandoned. So, very much like Hollywood's current film-making process, I've decided to reboot things. I just hope it'll be a different outcome in that it will be a little better than the original. ;) Once upon a time (going on 5 years ago), I had a project I was literally on the doorstep of using a Zotac ION ITX board (brand-new just streeted at the time; circa 2010). It was going to be my next Noire build, as well as being my next HTPC. It was going to be using Lian Li's brand new (at the time) Q-07 chassis. I had the custom powder ready to go. Acrylic done. That project was going to be called "Noire HD". Here's a mockup I did for the project log that never happened: The kicker is, I spent so much pre-design and planning on the project that I designed a custom full-cover waterblock conversion/re-purposing that would replace the stock cooling on the mobo, effectively simultaneously cooling the CPU and the GPU. Nothing new. At least now. 5 years ago it wasn't very common. Fast-forward to today -- it seems like a lot of the waterblock companies have their own version of an ITX block that cools everything on the mobo. Final block, tested working perfectly: Ironically, when asked if I had any new ideas for products, I presented the idea to one of PPC's EK contacts at the time a couple years back who was involved in R&D; he shot the idea down saying it wouldn't work because there wasn't a large call for that kind of thing. He moved on to other things shortly after that. ...EK now make tons of full-cover ITX blocks. :lol: It's a shame I didn't get around to the project, because just before I threw the switch is when I got laid off. And signed a lease the same day (before getting laid off). And found out we had a kid on the way. Etc., etc. Same story that I've already gone into in other (completed) logs. Anyway, Clean-slate. Fast-forward to now, I decided after building a floating desk in Lily's bedroom that the original LilyPC was going to be way too big for it. So I decided to also abandon (abort?) the Noire HD project (which I no longer have a need for a HTPC) and re-design everything for a new ITX LilyPC. I decided I was going to stay with aircooling too, so no waterblocks now. It's for the best. And for ease-of-use and maintenance. Now I'll be able to just give the rig a blast of compressed air with the compressor in the shop and clean out dust, bugs, etc. once in a while instead of draining and rebuilding occasionally. Besides, the ION chip isn't really supposed to get all that hot considering TDP. Although it seems (seemed) to get hot when everyone was buying them. Stock cooling sucks. It's as simple as that. So I have an easy plan to fix that using stuff I had laying about that just happened to work out with it. And with the wonderful help and support from great companies like MNPCTech and ADATA (who have both shown an extraordinary amount of patience with this project), I can make it happen! Now, on to the log proper. Here's the case I will be working on. Lian Li Q-07, ITX form-factor. I had already removed the front pair of USB ports; not necessary. Besides... I don't think Lily knows what USB ports are. :) ...And removed. Now, moving on to the motherboard. Zotac ION-ITX-K board. Stock cooling left much to be desired. :/ So I ripped it off and cleaned all the chewing gum crap they usually slather all over board's chips. I also began installing standoffs for a old Thermalright cooler I had that looked like it might fit. It did. :) Shot of both the CPU and the GPU chips.... ....and new cooler installed on the GPU chip. :) Closeup of the almost non-existent clearance for the bracket holding the cooler on... I also installed a passive cooler on the CPU using thermal adhesive. The board seems to run flawlessly with a fan somewhat pointed in the coolers' general direction, which is great because I don't plan on putting a fan directly on the cooler. I'm going to have a pair of 120mm fans in the case; one intake and one side exhaust. The air should simply run through the case, through the coolers, and out the side. Temps should be more than acceptable, and certainly lower than the stock cooling offers by far. Alright, back to the case now. Some of the mods I'm going to do to this case involves removing the PCI bracket area, since I won't be needing it at all. I'll also need to drill out the rivets that hold the ATX PSU frame on. Not needed as I'm using a Pico-ITX PSU and power brick to power this lil' thing. I'm going to be removing the stock feet on the case, since they kinda...well...suck. Replacing them with MNPCTech's mini feet of course! Let's do some drilling! If you're a modder, you most likely relate with this... :lol: Let's drill out those rivets now. I'm also going to remove the 3.5" HDD bracket since I won't be using that either... ...And removed. No matter how much experience you have with rotary tools, etc. you should always mask off your work-area. Just need to remove this little tab. It doesn't even need to be perfect as it's getting covered over anyway. ...And done. Masking off the front of the case so I can start marking out the holes I'll need to drill on the case. A good trick for fans is to mark out the four mounting holes and using a ruler, you draw lines criss-cross and the intersecting middle will give you the center of the fan's opening. ...and done. I went ahead and clamped down the entire chassis on my table-vise, since it's small enough. Drilling out the smaller holes and getting ready for the large one... Holesaws are very dangerous; use with caution and proper protection. I like to use eyewear, hearing protection, and condoms. Drilling.... Go slow; let the saw do it's job. ...And done. Just need to clean up the edge with a file or rotary tool sanding drum. Drilled out the 16mm hole for the new power switch and dropped in a dead test switch for checking. Looks fine! Alright, that's it for this log update. I'll be back with more in due time. Toodles!
  23. Well, my full tower watercooled build has stalled out a bit. In the mean time I wasn't going to do anything else, but the other day I saw a Lian Li PC-Q07B on newegg as the shell shocker for $30 and figured the family could use a new machine. And a SFF build would be perfect. So I picked up the case. It got here a few days later and let me tell you going from a full tower to an ITX chassis is crazy. the lack of space is quite a challenge, but it's one that I look forward to overcoming. Here are a couple of quick pics of the case. Now, some of you may notice the lack of places to put a fan on the top, side, and front. Thats because this case was really meant for silent or near silent system's with passive cooling. The side panel you see with the holes is actually meant for the intake fan on the PSU. Well I think we need to change that. Because for some reason that I'm not sure about my family needs something a little more powerful than passive cooling can support. So I think I need to add some fans. So the plans call for a 120mm fan on the front, top, and a 120mmx12mm fan on the bottom to cool a GPU. This is where I want to give a quick shout out to MNPCTECH. They have some of the coolest and very high quality modding parts. Most of you have seen a couple of their recent builds on here that are currently ongoing (Rebel Alliance, and FrozenCPU Tech Station) and the quality of the parts is as good as the work they do on their builds. Thanks again Bill for doing what you do, and for the help. Here's the care package that I ordered from them. Got a pair of 120mm Nautilus fan grills for the top and front. A set of micro case feet. A set of the most comfortable safety glasses I've ever worn (safety first when cutting on stuff). And a bag of rotary tool cutting discs. Went ahead and did a quick test fit of the largest PSU that the chassis supports at 140mm long To make sure a 120mm fan would fit. Had to borrow one from my brother since I don't have any laying around. Here's a standard ATX PSU installed in the chassis. And a quick test fit to verify the fan will clear. Went ahead and taped the front, top and bottom of the case of so that in the next couple days I can get the holes marked and cut/drilled. Top: Front: Also removed the bottom hard drive brackets to fit the 120mm x 12mm fan in the bottom: Didn't have time to do mark or cut things last night. Hoping to get to them by the end of the weekend and atleast be able to power up the fans and see how things work. Front and top fans by the way are Prolimatech 120mm red LED fans. Here's a couple pic's outside of the case. And with a grill installed: Also got the main piece of hardware for this build yesterday. Got a quick teaser. Ok I'm no good at keeping secrets. Hoping to make progress soon. Thanks for looking.
  24. PROLOGUE I recently acquired a Cooler Master HAF XB case from a friend. At first I wasn't sure what I was going to do with it. I have several builds currently in the works and I wasn't sure I wanted to take another one on, at this time. However, after having the case in my possession for a few short days, I changed my mind. The more I studied the case, the more ideas came to mind. I knew I wanted to do something different with this case. I also wanted to try some techniques that I haven't used before. I wanted to do a completely different theme then any of the other builds I've done before. I wanted something supernatural. I present to you: With contributions from: - Components - Cooler Master HAF XB Case Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3 Motherboard AMD FX-6300 CPU Powercolor Radeon HD 7970 GPU Crucial Tactical Tracer 8 gb 1600mhz Memory Cooler Master Silent Pro Hybrid 1050w PSU Samsung 840 250gb SSD - Cooling - XSPC Raystorm AMD CPU Waterblock XSPC Raystorm 7970 GPU Waterblock 6x Cooler Master JetFlo 120 White Fans Swiftech 8-Way PWM Splitter Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 240mm Radiator Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 360mm Radiator Swiftech MCP-655 Pump Bitspower D5 Mod Pump Top V2 Bitspower D5/MCP655 Mod Kit Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 400 Reservoir PrimoChill Rigid Revolver Compression Fittings PrimoChill Rigid Acrylic Tubing Mayhems Pastel Coolant - Miscellaneous - MNPCTech Billet Machined Aluminum Case Feet Lutro0 Customs Teleios Sleeving Tek by Design Proline Brushed Stainless Steel Fasteners Prologue Chapter I Chapter II Chapter III Chapter IV Chapter V Chapter VI Chapter VII
  25. Log Initiated: August 2012 Status: Ongoing Hello! This will be a quick lil' project for my step-daughter, who happens to be named Lillith, but she goes by Lily. Hence the project name. Creative, right? :lol:/> This is a project based around an old classic chassis, Lian Li's PC-60. I've built a few machines in this very chassis, and it was sitting around and being ignored so I figured, "why not"? Originally, I was going to use a mobo that MSI was supposed to supply for a magazine spread, but...well... I went into that over in the BIO-A10 log at-length. Gist of the story is, MSI is a really terrible company that does not care for their customers/supporters, and I will never again support them or even recommend them to others. No argument about it; simply stating the facts from where I'm standing. Back to the important stuff, here's a mockup illustration to give a rough idea on the looks... And here's the case itself. I've used this exact case a few times for rebuilds in the past, so it's had a lot of service under its belt. But this will be it's final "resurrection" if you will. I didn't mod it a whole lot since it was used with low-heat hardware, aside from the obvious power/reset switch replacement mod that everyone practically did to this case. Let's jump right in. Not a lot for the opening post to the log, but I'm going to move this one along fairly quickly as her B-day is coming up on Sept. 11. Yes, that date, and the same year. I still believe she is the anti-Christ. :hehe: Yeah, that's an old Seasonic PSU in there. Of course. I may actually keep it and just mod it/sleeve it. Who knows? The hardware in it is nothing fancy. An older AM2+ setup, etc. Nothing amazing, but then again a mod is NOT about having the latest/greatest hardware. I am going to use some vintage w/c gear too, since I have it to use. Why not? Let's start stripping her down. I'm going to be dropping a blowhole on the top of the case to increase some airflow in it. Nothing exciting. I'll use the ole jig and holesaw technique like I usually do. Now, need to bolt the top to the jig using the stock 80mm mount-holes... Drill a pilot hole down the middle... And presto. Whoop-tee-do, right? I'll be back with some more! Stay tuned!
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