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Found 5 results

  1. "We are the modders." "You will be assimilated." "Your physical uniqueness will be adapted to our will." "Resistance is futile." So, this project had a bit of a weird moment for me. It was the first time I had done any sort of computer build where my focus (and budget) had focused so heavily on looks rather than power. Admittedly that isn't hard when you work with a Raspberry Pi but, still it felt a bit foreign. The "case" for this project is a Borg Cube from the Star Trek Attack Wing game. I originally considered putting an itx board in this instead but, eventually I decided against it. The first step was disassembly. The cube is made of six separate pieces. The trick was to find one of the two that had the pegs holding it in place rather than just glue. This was to keep the pins intact both for strength on the other end and easily "locking" the top back in place when I'm not plugging in cables or something. Even with the pins, the edges were still glued enough to not separate on their own. I used a thin bladed knife to slowly split the edges apart and cut the glue line. Upon doing some test re-assemblies, I did come to see how tight the pigs fit into their respective holes. To remedy this I used three or four drill bits to slowly expand the peg holes to make removing and replacing the lid simpler. Even with reasonable caution taken, I guessed wrong on the first panel I tried. So, in order to reinforce the internal corners, I taped the outside of the cube to hold the corners in place. I then applied a thick coat of clear silicone adhesive to the eight interior edges of the cube. Upon drying, the cube appeared to be more rigid than it was originally. The panels were actually dual layered. The more visible layer actually has holes that allow you to see the solid translucent green layer below. I left most of the green layers in place for effect but, I did remove that layer from the bottom. Removing that layer made work a little easier and allows some air flow. While I know that plastic shouldn't conduct electricity and a Raspberry Pi shouldn't get warm enough to hurt the plastic, I still wanted some standoffs to mount my board. I ended up using some small rubber grommets i found at a local hardware store. They have the added benefit of having some give so that over-tightening my screws would show before the board would be damaged. One unexpected turn was when I salvaged a small cigarette display from work and found it had several small led strips as well as the 12v power adapter. This allowed my to very easily add lighting and a fan to the build. The power plug and fan were simply mounted with double sided tape. The only problem I had with this set up was the fan. I had to snip the lead wires going to its own led bulbs because the blue was bleeding through. The last issue was cable routing. The plastic on the cube is not exactly top quality so, using a grinding wheel on a Dremel was the simplest solution for making cable slots. First the hole in the bottom to allow controller cables to easily attach. Secondly was the slot for the 12v power, hdmi, and usb power. All of which routes neatly and can be stored inside when not in use. So with all of that finally done, now its time to sit back and fire up some old Nintendo classics.
  2. Hello everyone, Ever since I bought my first Raspberry Pi, the original model, I have wanted to build a HAT (Hardware Attached on Top) for the Raspberry Pi to control my PC. I have been slowly building up exactly what I want the board to do for a long time now. However, I have not had the time nor the perfected skill set to do everything that I wanted. Although I was doing Electronic Engineering as a degree I very rarely got to design a PCB, and when I did it was horrid. So now that I am working as an Electronic Engineer I have gone through more training and am in a position where I can build it to a decent standard! So lets first discuss what I want the board to be able to: Control at least 8 channels of 3 fans each. Power the PC on and off Modularly connect to additional control boards RGB LED control With that I started with the schematic design, I have gone through a number of different iterations of the design. First starting in OrCAD the chosen CAD package at university but it is not well documented nor accessible to the masses with a price tag that is so far out of this world it is not worth thinking about. For these reasons I switched to EAGLE PCB which is supported by a huge majority of the hobbyist community as well as PCB houses. Additionally huge libraries are available from Adafruit and Sparkfun. Below contains most of the features I wanted for the board, fan control for 13 3-pin fans, control for RGB LEDs. I will go through how each of these features shortly but for now have a look at the whole thing. This is the inputs, on the left, and PWM controller on the right. The inputs include the 20x2 connector for the Raspberry Pi (B+, 2, Zero), a 4-pin MOLEX connector for power (12v, 5v, GND), a voltage regulator for converting the 12V from the PSU to 3.3v needed by the control circuitry and pull up resistors for the two control lines SDA (i2c data) and SCL (i2c clock). The pull up is required to ensure that the two control lines do not drift, by having the "pulled up" to 3.3v with 10k resistors when no data is being sent the signal line is held high (at 3.3v). Next to the Raspberry Pi connector is the address selector for the PCA9685 (the PWM driver) allowing up to 64 devices to be connected to the i2c bus. This allows us to have modularity while using the same component on different boards all connected to the same i2c connector. The out puts of the PCA9685 are connected to a 220 ohm resistor, this limits the current on each to 3.3/220 = 15mA which is more than necessary to control the MOSFETs (which I will explain later) and protects the PCA9685 as well. On a 3-pin fan the three pins are 12v, GND, tachometer. The tachometer is used to show how fast the fan is spinning and works by supplying two pulses for every rotation. These pulses have a 5v high, this would be fine if I was using an Arduino to control everything as they operate on 5v logic but I couldn't make my life easy. Therefore, a line driver is required, this component takes the 5v logic from the fan and converts it to 3.3v, allowing it to safely connect to the Raspberry Pi. I will then use software to detect the pulses and calculate an RPM. For now this will do, please let me know if you have any questions, I want to create basic electronics guides for you all so please let me know what you want me to cover.
  3. Hello everyone, Back in October Asus had a local case mod competition, for the 2015 Cluj-Napoca (Romania) Dreamhack event. This mod was our entry, which won us the first place. It's a scratchbuild with a side HUD, which displays system details, in real time. The system itself sends the information, to a Raspberry PI, inside the case. The Raspberry PI handles the side panel display. The side panel is the outer level of a TN, put on top of a laser-etched plexiglass, which is put right on top of the motherboard. The case is mostly plexiglass and abs, cut on a laser CNC. Rig: i7 4790k; 16GB HyperX beast @2400MHz; Asus Maximus VII Formula; HyperX 3K 120GB SSD x2 RAID0; ASUS GeForce GTX 980 Poseidon Platinum Watercooling: Phobya 360mm radiator Phobya CPU-Cooler UC-2 LT Alphacool Cape Corp Coolplex Pro 15 LT Alphacool 13/10 compression fitting 90° revolvable G1/4 - Deep Black Masterkleer tubing PVC 13/10mm (3/8"ID) UV-reactive dark red Laing DDC-pump + Alphacool Laing DDC Plexi cover We're pretty new to game and for the next project we will have a full blown work-load. Up until minute 7 you can see the design process and at around 14:00 you can see the development of the software as well. Hope you like the video. Any feedback is welcome! :)
  4. DESCRIPTION: ________________________________ I got a new toy last week. Finally cracked it open this week. A Raspberry Pi 2 to replace my Windows IIS web server. Decided to make a quick ninja scratch build case for it. MATERIALS: ________________________________ - Raspberry Pi - Leftover stuff from other projects INSPIRATION: ________________________________ Hated seeing it sitting unprotected on the desk. WORK LOG: ________________________________ Here's the little go-getter. My first dive into the Linux world. So far so simple. If you can do command line and search Google you'll be fine. Notice the relative lack of elegance and protection in it's current location. The task is simple: we're going to ice-cream-sandwich this bad boy. First, some sheet metal! Then some acrylic. (Yes, I got the top line wrong first time. :wacko:) Thank god for shop vacs, cuz acrylic dust gets everywhere... Question: how in the world do you vacuum the end of the vacuum hose?!?! :blink: Taped all the pieces together and filed them down to perfection. Then a quick grid and screw holes. Moment of truth..! Whew! No cracks in the acrylic. :lol: My tried and true MacGyver for tiny tubing - dead ball point pen! If you can guess which location I was at and what I was doing there you'll win the internetz! B) Used a box cutter and fancy roll back-and-forth technique to cut 20mm and 10mm sections. And filed them down to perfection. :lol: A quick test fit. Aaaaaaaaaaand found out the screws were too big for the Pi holes. :huh: Sooooooo... temporary paper clip fix until I can get to the hardware store. Darn acrylic dust... :angry: I'll grab some screws, throw on a little paint and should have some final pics soon. :D
  5. Im going to build a mini arcade system using a Raspberry Pi and my past knowledge from working on arcade systems. The idea is very basic and ill be spending the least amount of money possible to do this to show that its can be done on a very cheap budget. Most of the parts will be old thrown out stuff or ripped from old arcade systems. Obversely i will have to use some new gear such as the PI it self but im going to try and do the whole system for less than £80.00. This log will not be fast as i will only be able to do a small amount at a time as my work and kids take up a lot of my time how ever i will show you as i progress what i have been up to. Mini Arcade Parts List Raspberry PI (http://www.phenoptix...ns/raspberry-pi) 2 to 4 Gb SD Card (old one out of a old phone) USB Phone charger (old one from a old phone) USB Keyboard (old one found in a dump) Arcade Buttons (ripped out of a older arcade system) Wire (what ever i can find around the house) Arcade Joy Stick (ripped out of a old arcade system will need to be 8 way) What ever screen i can get my hands on for free (yet to find) Ply wood or MDF I am not going to build a Micro arcade as Screens are not cheap or easy to find locally and im not willing to pay stupid amounts of money to build this. I will post more info and pics once parts have arrived and as i progress. There is no plan in place on how i will progress and most of it is going to be built off the cuff. Mick
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