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Found 22 results

  1. Okay, I lied. This isn't my first mod, nor is it the best I've done. But I feel compelled to post because this case is fantastic... So long as you get one that actually passed quality control. More on that later, but if you're going to buy one, I strongly recommend buying one from somewhere good about taking returns on defective products. Before I continue, you can read a little bit about me and my interest in modding here. I've seen three of these cases personally, and fortunately for me, the one that was free of any problems was the red one I purchased for myself. The two questionable quality ones were in the blue variety, purchased by a buddy of mine. For those curious, yeah, we're doing twin builds. Only difference is I don't know if my buddy is going to be as ambitious with actual modifications. For those wondering what my quality concerns are about this case, please click to read the hidden content below: EDIT: Somehow I totally fubar'd the formatting of this post. The entire rest of my post is actually in the "hidden content" section. Sorry guys! Quality concerns out of the way, let's talk about what makes this case GREAT. You may want to view Bill and Mosquito's review of the Raijintek Styx before reading further as I will be addressing their concerns about the case. They also do a wonderful job of covering most of the essentials about this case. I personally found it to be a great virtual tour of the case before I bought it! I also found that it was the only review (or one of very few?) that addressed the slimline optical drive, which was one of the things that excited me most about the case. First of all, yes it's a relatively inexpensive aluminum case. It's no Lian Li (yet still in a very similar vein), but so long as you get one free of defects, it's a real satisfying buy! They come in various colors (black, silver, gold, green, red, blue) and each sport that timeless brushed aluminum look. What compelled me to give this case a try in the first place was experience with a knockoff of the Styx's little brother, the Raijintek Metis. Knockoff in question was the Raidmax Atomic, which was identical except for the front panel USB (1x USB 2.0 and 1x USB 3.0 as opposed to dual 3.0) and the fact that they had a three panel window on the case. I liked the small form factor, I thought the full ATX PSU compatibility was pretty genius (even though I opted for a SFX PSU to save space), there was a generous amount of storage options... and it was all around just a fun build. The Styx is no exception. The build: Case: Red Raijintek Styx (duh) Fans: 4x Corsair HD120 RGB (54.4 CFM, 18 - 30 dBA) Motherboard: MSI B350M Mortar Arctic (AM4) CPU: Undecided as of yet; likely going to be a Raven Ridge Ryzen APU CPU Cooler: Scythe Grand Kama Cross 3 + Corsair HD120 RGB (later on I may replace it with a Deepcool Gamer Storm Captain 240EX White AIO) GPU: Asus GeForce 1050 Ti RAM: Corsair Vengeance RGB 16GB (2x 8GB) DDR4 3200 (CMR16GX4M2C3200C16W; White version... ideally I'm going to want two kits to max out at 32GB) HDD: Samsung 960 Evo M.2 2280 1TB PCI-Express 3.0 x4 SSD, plus a bunch of misc 2.5" drives (holy feces this case can fit a ton of those; up to 8 if you're crafty enough) PSU: Corsair RM850x White (ATX) WiFi: WTXUP Broadcom BCM94360 802.11ac 1750Mbps + Bluetooth 4.0 PCI-e x1 (native macOS support w/airdrop&handoff support; I dual boot, deal with it lol) Misc: a SATA III card with at least 6 ports (certainly can't squeeze up to 8 2.5" HDDs and an optical drive inside with just the 4 ports on the mobo!) Lots of 5050 RGB LEDs (I plan to light up the interior as well as give the case some tasty underglow) After installing the motherboard, the first thing I noticed was the fact that the motherboard orientation is actually upside down! For some people this may be an issue, but I had no complaints about this. Quite the opposite actually, because I quickly realized that 90% of my motherboard's headers were on the top side in this orientation (most other motherboards should be similar). In the second image just above, you can see exactly what I mean. I felt this was going to make my cable management a breeze, as I can easily tuck the cables going to said headers over the top and behind the motherboard tray. If I can convince myself to stop being lazy about it, I may just end up trimming my front panel cables to length and make my cable management that much better. This case is advertised to support the following: 3x 3.5" HDDs + 2x 2.5" HDDs ---OR--- 1x 3.5" HDD + 4x 2.5" HDDs So how do you fit 8x 2.5" HDDs in this case you ask? Why, with help of my good friend, Corsair CSSD-BRKT2... 3.5" HDDs are dead to me, honestly. I hardly ever use them because they are nowhere near as versatile nor are they as widely utilized in consumer electronics as 2.5" drives. So with these Corsair 3.5" to dual 2.5" adapters, I never have to deal with them anymore. I could go on and on about how 2.5" drives are superior, but I'll save everyone the sermon. So yes, this is how I'm able to fit 8x 2.5" HDDs in my rig! Now to address Mosquito's concern at 9:38 in the review... As you can see in the image above, while using these Corsair adapters aren't NEARLY as fun as taking a Dremel to it... This configuration (with the adapters) does resolve the issue of right angle connectors not being able to reach your 2.5" drives. I personally believe Raijintek should have made the holes bigger on their bracket to accommodate for right angle connectors from the factory. But whatever, whether you dremel it or do the lame fix with the adapters, it's a pretty easy fix. As you probably already guessed, I went with the lame fix solely for the purpose of expanding the amount of places I can mount a 2.5" drive to. Now then, with my mini review out of the way, let's get to the actual modding, shall we? I'm going to be honest, there isn't a whole lot of cutting and grinding happening with this case. I appreciate it enough as it is, but I do want to fix up some annoyances... And because it's mostly satisfactory as it is, I'm going to be focusing on minor details and RGB lighting. In addition to interior lighting, I will be doing underglow lighting on this rig as well. It's basically a must after seeing how my BitFenix Prodigy turned out (it had underglow AND overglow... I'll get around to posting pics of it later. It seriously looks wicked cool)... Since I currently have pretty limited income, it's going to take a few months (at worst) to get all the components I want inside. But that's not all so bad.. gives me ample time to design the lighting effects I want, as well as what little cutting and grinding I have planned. Speaking of, the first order of business was to get rid of that pesky honeycomb mesh from the rear exhaust fan hole. Back in the day (we're talking socket 939... yeah..), overclocking was my jam. This mod, simple as it is, is always the first bit of cutting that I do to my cases (if I cut at all). I do this to increase case airflow (sometimes it can drop your temps by a degree or two) as well as to reduce noise. I do plan on attaching a fan filter to it though (and maybe a less restrictive grill), but less mesh the better. So anyway, let's get to it. I opted to save my cutting wheel some wear and took some pliers to the case after the initial cut to get me started. Not to mention that at the time, I had to keep the noise to a minimum as well... I took a break here and opted to smooth out the edges another day. In the past I used the cutting wheel exclusively to make my cuts, but this time around I decided to use a grinding bit to smooth out my edges and give it a professional look. I cannot emphasize enough how satisfying it was when I finished touching up with the grinding bit. I never imagined I would be able to make a cut on this level of professionalism, but I certainly proved myself wrong. Which really just goes to show you that when you use the right Dremel bit for the job, you can and will greatly improve your results! Seriously, you don't want to see my previous cuts. They were atrocious in comparison. After this, all I had left to do was to dull down the edges with a file. Unfortunately I didn't have one. The buddy of mine who is building the blue Styx introduced me to Harbor Freight Tools... $88 later, I had diamond grit precision files, one rounded/flat file, and a heap of other tools that I might need.. You know, just in case ;). Finally got a rivet gun (this case has no rivets at all, just thinking of future endeavors), articulating vice, metal/nylon brushes, magnetic pickup tools, dead blow hammer, ratcheting bar clamps <3, tin snips and WORK GLOVES lol. It's about time I started to wear protective gear! After getting the edges of the hole dulled down, I did what I hoped I wouldn't have to: tear down the case completely and clean out allll the metal flakes . As you probably saw in my pictures, I tried to mask off the inside of the case by taping a garbage bag to the outer edges of the 120mm fan hole. What I didn't account for was metal flakes getting tossed through the IO shield and other holes on the back panel. In retrospect I should have just torn down the case from the beginning (as it was honestly pretty easy; again, no rivets! which I actually like quite a bit)... With just the back panel separated from the rest of the case... Yep, that would have been the least messy way to get the cut done. Live and learn. One of the first things I did when disassembling the case was removing the front panel button, USB ports and audio ports. Basically because there were flakes everywhere and that just seemed like the logical place to start. Well... This highlighted a small problem some owners of this case may also experience... As you can see, that screw is SNUG up against the USB port... and that's AFTER I trimmed some rubber off of it! Unfortunately the screw was a little bit stripped from the factory, but fortunately the screw is still in good enough condition to be used... Just to be safe, I trimmed up the other side as well. Then I took a closer look at the front panel button... As you can see, the power button LED is likely not replaceable without replacing the entire button... Not a problem for me though, because I actually like the white LED. I took off the last remaining screws, gave everything a thorough wipe down with a microfiber cloth, then put everything back together. If you're still reading, thanks for being patient with me. I know I tend to write a little more than the average person might anyway, lol. Next order of operation is laying out my 5050 RGB LEDs, then wiring them all together! I won't be getting to that for a while though, as my Scotch mounting tape won't arrive until Feb 5th thanks to Amazon Subscribe & Save... The things I do to save a little bit of cash... Sheesh. Anyway, thanks for reading! I know the mods I'm doing are like child's play, but this is only the second time I've seriously committed to modifying a PC case of mine... And aside from that, cutting into the aluminum itself just feels wrong.. but I may cut the aluminum mesh out of the bottom fan, just currently undecided. Until next time...
  2. Hi Guy, Not sure if you knew this. You can easily polish acrylic and other plastics with rubbing compound and fine sandpaper. First, debur and sand as you would normally taper the end. Second go through stages of wet sand paper starting with: 400,then 800, then 1000, then 1200 (you can go up to 2000, but you may find 1000 is good enough) This is identical to the process you would use to sand and polish a show car. Since you are only sanding a small area (as compared to an entire car) this wont take very long. The trick is to make sure that each stage of sanding removes the scratches created by the previous stage. By the time you get to 1000 you can polish, but it is easier to polish if you go to 1200 or 1500 grit paper. You can polish by hand or with a machine buffing wheel or pad. By hand, definitely sand to 1200 as it will be easier. Add rubbing compound to a soft cotton rag and aggressively rub the compound over the sanded area. It will take about a minute. For the next step use polishing compound if you have it and repeat but use a separate rag as not cross contaminate compounds. Finally use a dry clean rag to remove the residue. Viola! Shiny plastic. You can also use this on CD's or headlight lenses. If you are using a machine to buff and polish, be gentle and allow the spinning surface to cast away from the edge otherwise it will damage the pipe (this is because it will grab the edge or generate too much friction and melt the plastic). Also machine polishing spins off a lot of compound so wear a respirator as the particles are not good to breathe and do it outside otherwise it will get all over your shop and make everyone else get a sore throat. Sounds dangerous, the upside is you can polish a bunch of parts in a very short period of time so weight your options. Just thought I'd offer this solution as the push-in type connectors probably wont get damaged if the surfaced is polished. Cheers.
  3. Totally Hand Crafted Acrylic sticker mod for a Corsair 760t Case.....it was a really hard thing to do all these 3 cuts from the plain sheets within just one day....one of them is 8 inches/10 inches in size... One is 5 inches/ 4 inches in size....the acrylic was an opal colored white acrylic sheet.... And the ROG eye was done for a dearest person of mine.....it was done in and red 3mm acrylic sheet.... THE ROG LOGO Some up close pictures..... The MSI LOGO..... This is the 4/5 inches one..... This is the bigger one 10/8 inches one.... Close up Extreme close up.... ;) With MSI logo Both sizes Together.... Please do add your comments and suggestion and anything whatever you like.....each and every comments inspires me a lot to do more..... :)
  4. Behold my latest creation to be Project Arclight will be a huge case built on an Enermax Fulmo GT chassis with some serious power behind it also provided by Enermax in the shape of the mighty Platimax 1200watt psu Te Arclight will be an all acrylic outer shell with a double action doors and servo actuated fan intakes that will open and close based on fan speeds, the shell will have a double tone look with layered panels of black and flourescent blue to accent every edge even the 100s of vent parts will have glowing edges, the interior will be a partitioned system very much like the custom partition for my other project "Sulaco" but with far more refinement Much of the details i would like to keep slightly underwraps untill I post them for that extra mystery, heres a little peek at the exterior several sponsors are already assisting me on this build and there help is as ever massively appreciated i simply would not be able to do this without them Acrylic and solvent supplied by Hindleys. These guys are amazing, catering for 100s of different types of materials from plastic to metal and everything in between. And allays happy to answer even the craziest of questions a modder like me can ask Massive thanks to Enermax for supplying a Fulmo GT, Platimax 1200wall and a vast array of case fans from there amazing Vegas range Thanks also go to Bitfenix for givign me so much on my last project that i have enough spare to add to Arclight Stay tuned for a lot more to come........
  5. Hey guys! After the clarification on work-logs, I wanted to share mine with you guys. This is my second case-mod but it is the first time I've made a correct work-log from start to finish. My work is much more professional than my first build and I've learned quite a bit from trial and error. I'm going to plan on using Rampage 4 Gene motherboard and one of new Ivy Bridge-E Chips, probably just the quad core to save a couple bucks. I plan on buying those items on the 15th of October. I'm also probably going to wait for Nvidia to bring out their 790GTX card for this build. As long as it is before the Cooler Master 2013 competition deadline. I might throw something in in the mean time if that's all this build is waiting on. UPDATES: 10/14/2013: http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/936-grey-matter-cooler-master-haf-912/page-3#entry17675 10/21/2013: http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/936-grey-matter-cooler-master-haf-912-updated-101413/page-4#entry18189 10/28/2013: http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/936-grey-matter-cooler-master-haf-912-updated-102113/page-6#entry18766 11/04/2013: http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/936-grey-matter-cooler-master-haf-912-updated-102813/page-8#entry19129 11/11/2013: http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/936-grey-matter-cooler-master-haf-912-updated-11042013-handmade-waterfall-reservoir-with-video/page-9#entry19553 11/25/2013: http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/936-grey-matter-cooler-master-haf-912-updated-11112013-acrylic-tubes-windows-reservoir-trim/page-11#entry20169 12/02/2013: http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/936-grey-matter-cooler-master-haf-912-updated-11252013-finished-reservoir-trim-blu-ray-enclosure/page-12#entry20404 12/09/2013: http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/936-grey-matter-cooler-master-haf-912-updated-12022013-vertical-gpu-final-cuts-motm-on-bt/page-13#entry20765 12/18/2013: http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/936-grey-matter-cooler-master-haf-912-updated-12022013-beginning-final-assembly/page-14#entry21128 01/04/2013: http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/936-grey-matter-cooler-master-haf-912-updated-12182013-almost-finished/page-15#entry21683 01/11/2014: FINAL PHOTOS!!!! Here are the components I have bought so far : <>PC Components:[x] Case : Cooler Master HAF 912 Mid Tower[x] PSU : EVGA SuperNOVA 750W GoldPlus[x] CPU: Intel I-7 3930k 6-core 3.2Ghz (3.8Ghz Turbo) 2011 Socket [x] MoBo: Asus Rampage IV Gene[x] RAM: 16Gb Gskill RipJaw Z series 1600 Mhz Cas #9[x] GPU: EVGA 780 GTX Superclocked ACX Cooler[x] SSD: Samsung 840 Pro Series 256Gb [x] Optical: LG Slim Blu-ray Burner <>Water Cooling System[x] EKWB 240mm XT Radiator[x] 2x EKWB 120mm XT Radiators[x] 10x EKWB 90 Fittings[x] 2x Bitspower G1/4" Female / Female Pass-Through Fitting / Fill port[x] 2x EKWB Monarch x2 RAM water block[x] 2x EKWB Monarch RAM Modules[x] Swiftech MCP-655 PWM Pump[x] EKWB D5 X-Top White Acetal Pump Top[x] 22x Primochill White Revolver Rigid Fittings[x] 1/2" OD Rigid acrylic tubing[x] EKWB 780Gtx Clear/Nickel Original-CSQ [x] EKWB Supremacy CPU block. <>Key mods<>[x] Custom acrylic paneling.[x] Custom acrylic fan enclosure/radiator mount.[x] Custom acrylic Blu-ray enclosure.[x] Custom water cooling system.[x] Custom acrylic rad covers.[x] Handmade custom acrylic waterfall bay-style reservoir.[x] Single sleeved power supply, by me.[x] Vertical GPU mounted on mid-case shelf. [x] 100% hidden wire management. Only cables seen are those meant to be seen. Feel free to gimme some insight! On with the pictures! Enjoy! Goodies from MNPCTECH.com!Acrylic Tubing Reamer from MNPCtech.com PC Window U-channel trim from MNPCtech.com 3M Red Scotchbrite from MNPCtech.com Mnpctech MINI "Grooved" White Derlin Case Feet The first parts I picked up were the case and power supply. I figured I could spend the most time with them while waiting for money for other components. Here they are laid out and I started removing some case panels. After gutting the case, I'm left with my blank canvas! I sanded and washed the plastics to get ready for primer. The primer colors were close to the actual paint scheme. Got the few plastic parts painted then set them aside to continue working the interior. I really like this grey/white scheme. Here are the materials for the internal mods. Acrylic from TAP Plastics. I don't like the grey its daayumn near black so Ill be wrapping panels with a grey carbon fiber material I bought. I'm going to be using MicroRAX for the interior framework. Here is a sneak peek at the sleeving, LutroOs Teleios sleeve. I recently picked up some light grey and I think Ill be using that instead of the dark grey. Got to work cutting acrylic panels. I found that raw measurements and using a clamped fence with a skill saw help making panels perfectly straight and square. I glued in some supports to make a raised bottom panel for a nice flat surface to start on. Here I started adding the microRAX framework. This is where I left off at the end of this past weekend, Hopefully I can get some work done this coming week and its a payday weekend coming up so I should be scooping up some more parts. I absolutely love the microRAX, it really adds a nice professional touch to the project. some screw holes will be socket head and some will be flat head and counter sunk, Ill do that later on.
  6. MetallicAcid's TJ07 (working title) Proudly sponsored by: Södertälje Specialsnickeri AB Sweden Welcome to my third project!! In this project, I have planned this project to include the Silverstone Temjin TJ07S, a timeless classic of premium case. I have had an ongoing community driven planning phase over a couple of months, where I have received feedback from the public, and tried to turn that feedback into a 3D render. I have really enjoyed the entire process, and learnt many new techniques along the way. I know that this particular case has been modded probably 1,000,001 times now, so creating a TJ07 that stands out from an already well saturated crowd is already hard enough to do. To make this build even better than my previous projects is an even bigger challenge. Update 2014/03/06 Hello everybody! I know this has been a long time coming :P It is with great excitement that I announce that the project has now officially been started! I am building this project for Demis, a friend of mine. He had fallen in love with the project, and the ideas which I had visualized with the aid of SketchUp and Skindigo - 3D modelling and rendering software. There had been discussions between Demis and I regarding the colour and overall theme of this build, and in the end we both thought that a blacked out stealth build, with subtle gold highlights, with an overall monolithic feel with a simple exterior and neat interior was the best option for this project. The colour scheme comes from the X79 ASUS motherboard. I would like to now show you a visual representation of how this project will probably look like: This project may take some time to complete. This is a good thing in my opinion as it means that I can plan every detail to perfection, and execute those plans into reality with ease and minimal stress. This will be a watercooled project, but in stages. Stage 1 for the watercooling will include just the CPU, with the GPU being air cooled. Stage 2 of the watercooling will include a 2nd GPU with both being watercooled. So you can expect a Rev.1 and Rev.2 of this project over the coming months. Here comes a list of things that I plan to do with this mod: Fabricate Custom made midplate Custom made reservoir wall Acrylic window for top of case Acrylic windows for side panels Modify Extend window for top of case Window opening on side panels Pass-through holes in midplate for hard tubing New power button Sleeve PSU Prepare for painting TJ07 case Custom made midplate Custom made reservoir wall Paint TJ07 case Custom made midplate Custom made reservoir wall GPU shrouds Install Cold Zero parts Water cooling parts PC components I hope you have enjoyed the news. We are both super excited about this project, and want to see it to perfection. I hope you stick around for future updates! With best regards,Justin "MetallicAcid" Ohlsen Update links: Update 1 - Parts ordered and modding begins.Update 2 - Midplate ProgressUpdate 3 - Angled plateUpdate 4 - Cold ZeroUpdate 5 - Motherboard fittingUpdate 6 - Top window cut outUpdate 7 - GPU shroudsUpdate 8 - Side window complete and Icemodz sponsorUpdate 9 - Acrylic windows milledUpdate 10 - Silverstone sponsor and unboxing Strider ST1200GUpdate 11 - Installed front panel, glued into place and installed vandal switchUpdate 12 - EK DeliveryUpdate 13 - Soldering guide and molex completeUpdate 14 - PSU cables sleevedUpdate 15 - Inet joins as sponsorUpdate 16 - EK lends a handUpdate 17 - Hardware updateUpdate 18 - Another hardware updateUpdate 19 - Case is back from powder coatersUpdate 20 - Sponsor update/fans installed/EKWB monoblock installedUpdate 21 - Sponsor updateUpdate 22 - EKWB GPU blocks and reservoir installationUpdate 23 - Piping up the loopUpdate 24 - Final photos/Project finished
  7. Jump to final photos! Well, hello! *waves* Hm, what's that? ...Ah, yes. LilyPC. Yeah... See, here's the thing. It was time to move on. The project was simply too big in size. That's it. That's the reason. The thing is she's a kid. Giving her a watercooled setup probably isn't the smartest thing to do, nevermind the simplicity of the loop, etc. She's a kid. So I decided to go a different direction. And I've considered the original project abandoned. So, very much like Hollywood's current film-making process, I've decided to reboot things. I just hope it'll be a different outcome in that it will be a little better than the original. ;) Once upon a time (going on 5 years ago), I had a project I was literally on the doorstep of using a Zotac ION ITX board (brand-new just streeted at the time; circa 2010). It was going to be my next Noire build, as well as being my next HTPC. It was going to be using Lian Li's brand new (at the time) Q-07 chassis. I had the custom powder ready to go. Acrylic done. That project was going to be called "Noire HD". Here's a mockup I did for the project log that never happened: The kicker is, I spent so much pre-design and planning on the project that I designed a custom full-cover waterblock conversion/re-purposing that would replace the stock cooling on the mobo, effectively simultaneously cooling the CPU and the GPU. Nothing new. At least now. 5 years ago it wasn't very common. Fast-forward to today -- it seems like a lot of the waterblock companies have their own version of an ITX block that cools everything on the mobo. Final block, tested working perfectly: Ironically, when asked if I had any new ideas for products, I presented the idea to one of PPC's EK contacts at the time a couple years back who was involved in R&D; he shot the idea down saying it wouldn't work because there wasn't a large call for that kind of thing. He moved on to other things shortly after that. ...EK now make tons of full-cover ITX blocks. :lol: It's a shame I didn't get around to the project, because just before I threw the switch is when I got laid off. And signed a lease the same day (before getting laid off). And found out we had a kid on the way. Etc., etc. Same story that I've already gone into in other (completed) logs. Anyway, Clean-slate. Fast-forward to now, I decided after building a floating desk in Lily's bedroom that the original LilyPC was going to be way too big for it. So I decided to also abandon (abort?) the Noire HD project (which I no longer have a need for a HTPC) and re-design everything for a new ITX LilyPC. I decided I was going to stay with aircooling too, so no waterblocks now. It's for the best. And for ease-of-use and maintenance. Now I'll be able to just give the rig a blast of compressed air with the compressor in the shop and clean out dust, bugs, etc. once in a while instead of draining and rebuilding occasionally. Besides, the ION chip isn't really supposed to get all that hot considering TDP. Although it seems (seemed) to get hot when everyone was buying them. Stock cooling sucks. It's as simple as that. So I have an easy plan to fix that using stuff I had laying about that just happened to work out with it. And with the wonderful help and support from great companies like MNPCTech and ADATA (who have both shown an extraordinary amount of patience with this project), I can make it happen! Now, on to the log proper. Here's the case I will be working on. Lian Li Q-07, ITX form-factor. I had already removed the front pair of USB ports; not necessary. Besides... I don't think Lily knows what USB ports are. :) ...And removed. Now, moving on to the motherboard. Zotac ION-ITX-K board. Stock cooling left much to be desired. :/ So I ripped it off and cleaned all the chewing gum crap they usually slather all over board's chips. I also began installing standoffs for a old Thermalright cooler I had that looked like it might fit. It did. :) Shot of both the CPU and the GPU chips.... ....and new cooler installed on the GPU chip. :) Closeup of the almost non-existent clearance for the bracket holding the cooler on... I also installed a passive cooler on the CPU using thermal adhesive. The board seems to run flawlessly with a fan somewhat pointed in the coolers' general direction, which is great because I don't plan on putting a fan directly on the cooler. I'm going to have a pair of 120mm fans in the case; one intake and one side exhaust. The air should simply run through the case, through the coolers, and out the side. Temps should be more than acceptable, and certainly lower than the stock cooling offers by far. Alright, back to the case now. Some of the mods I'm going to do to this case involves removing the PCI bracket area, since I won't be needing it at all. I'll also need to drill out the rivets that hold the ATX PSU frame on. Not needed as I'm using a Pico-ITX PSU and power brick to power this lil' thing. I'm going to be removing the stock feet on the case, since they kinda...well...suck. Replacing them with MNPCTech's mini feet of course! Let's do some drilling! If you're a modder, you most likely relate with this... :lol: Let's drill out those rivets now. I'm also going to remove the 3.5" HDD bracket since I won't be using that either... ...And removed. No matter how much experience you have with rotary tools, etc. you should always mask off your work-area. Just need to remove this little tab. It doesn't even need to be perfect as it's getting covered over anyway. ...And done. Masking off the front of the case so I can start marking out the holes I'll need to drill on the case. A good trick for fans is to mark out the four mounting holes and using a ruler, you draw lines criss-cross and the intersecting middle will give you the center of the fan's opening. ...and done. I went ahead and clamped down the entire chassis on my table-vise, since it's small enough. Drilling out the smaller holes and getting ready for the large one... Holesaws are very dangerous; use with caution and proper protection. I like to use eyewear, hearing protection, and condoms. Drilling.... Go slow; let the saw do it's job. ...And done. Just need to clean up the edge with a file or rotary tool sanding drum. Drilled out the 16mm hole for the new power switch and dropped in a dead test switch for checking. Looks fine! Alright, that's it for this log update. I'll be back with more in due time. Toodles!
  8. Prior to doing mods I have not had any power tool experience, electrical skills, nor painting abilities; never really built anything... Until I discovered case modding! I spent days in the garage making un-straight cuts, scuffing up the factory paint job, using math I thought I would never use outside of high school. What I can say is that I’m proud of what I built. (I did not own any of these tools, beforehand. But surprisingly they weren’t too expensive.) About 1 year ago. One of the greatest moments, is getting the parts to your first computer. An here it is put together. OH the Newbie I was. YES that's a SSD twist tied to had side of the drive bays... A few component upgrades later… And finally… I was happy.
  9. Hi all, I know its been awhile since I have been active on here, but to make up for it, I'm going to share my latest project. I have been working on this for the past few weeks and have finally gotten to the build phase of the project, which I will be sharing with you shortly. But for now, here is the initial concept and design. I wanted to do something simple and minimalist using some fun equipment that I had at my disposal, one of which was a 3D printer. So I decided to design a case using just 3D printed and laser cut acrylic parts. I am actually designing this for a friend of mine and he had a certain look he wanted to go for, he REALLY like the In-Win 904 case with that giant window on the side, so I did something similar, just out of 3D printed parts. Another feature I wanted to accomplish with this was a very clean looking motherboard tray with no visible holes for cable routing. To do this, all the parts are on standoffs and the wires will be routed behind their respective parts to the back panel. Currently the 3D printed parts are being printed and I should have them sometime next week, I will be ordering the laser cut parts as well next week. If anyone has any questions or comments, feel free to ask. Thanks for viewing!
  10. Hello Fellow Modders With my Work space starting to take shape in the New house I am looking at continuing my Project and also starting a new one for myself. one issue I noticed before I packed everything up was that every time I was drilling into acrylic it was like it was like walking on eggshells, I actually went thru 3 pieces of Acrylic after I had already shaped them. I have heard of some special drill bits that are on a steeper angle so that it wont get clogged and jam and cause a break/crack. my issue is that i cant seem to find them or see what they are called, i ask the Question at Bunnings (local hardware store chain) and they look blankly at me or give me standard Drill bits.
  11. Hi Guys and Girls This thread is a Quick Guide for people that don't have a band saw, scroll saw or a jigsaw and want to use the Dremel to cut some acrylic. Here is a few Steps that make it a bit easier to work with what you have got: 1. Mark the Cut out on your material 2. Find a ling straight piece of wood and some clamps. 3. Line it up about 1mm away from the line and clam down 4. You want to make sure if you press the mandrel against the timber the cutting wheel sits on the line. 5.Before Cutting make sure you have your glasses on. 6. Try and make a continuous cut without stopping, the straighter you hold the dremel the better your cut will be. That is it guys hope it helps one or two people. now off to get me a Band saw and a Scroll saw
  12. Hello everyone! You might have seen this build before, why? Because this project log was started in 2012. But then, why are you here again? Well this project is kind of a never ending story for me, I upgraded the hardware along the way and changed it, I still have it and I still change it. But I never was totally satisfied with it. AMD also released their A-10 7850K a while ago and I really wanted to have this in this small build to make it a really awesome HTPC, but how should I be able to cool 100W in this small case? I will watercool it, first with a Corsair H75 and further on I will make an entire custom loop in this small case. That is what Im going to show you now, but first, if you have time, go through the worklog to see how I built this case from the beginning. I will list all the updates further down. The new hardware in this case will be: MB: MSI A88XI AC CPU: AMD A10 7850K RAM: Corsair Dominator Platinum 2x4GB 2400MHz PSU: Streacom ST-NANO150 SSD: Corsair Force LS 120GB FANS: 2x Prolimatech Ultra Sleek Vortex 12 New things to do: New front and backplate out of aluminium.Sleeve the new PSU and all the other cables.Cut a bigger hole in the bottom for 2x 120mm fans.Installing the Corsair H75.Sand down all edges and polish them.New case feet.Custom loop? I got the idea for this build when I was looking at some of the acrylic I had left from Cold Winter. Saw some nice shape coming. So I started cutting, and got these two acrylic pieces: I got some nice hifi-looking feet and some hinges to put the two pieces together. Then I made a front and backplate and powdercoated them white. Installed a LCD and a simple power switch. Installed a simple Intel Atom motherboard with 4gb ram and a lot of harddrive space. Installed a intake 100mm fan under the motherboard. And here is the final pictures Hardware pics Right side Left side Back Front Thanks for visiting! Johan Nyman
  13. Hello the Mod Zoo! My name is Johan Nyman, Im 20 years old and living in Sweden, enough with that. ;)/> I just finished with a little HTPC/NAS build, so now I can start with my next project. I have been waiting to start working on this. Ive been planning how to make this as good as possible. This is the project I will spend most time on ever. Hope you will enjoy this log, feel free to comment and please give me advice and tips. Lets start with a little info about this build. You may remember a build I made called Cold Winter. I posted it on several forums around a year ago. I also made a version 2 of it, and now the third and last version is coming. This is my favorite build of all time, so now I want to make it as goodlooking as possible. What Im going to do is to correct the mistakes Ive made before, add some features to hide cables and things like that. I will also fill it with a little bit newer hardware and this time Im going for some nice watercooling, not an all-in-one like the Antec Kuhler I had in V.2. List of things to do: Paint the right acrylic side of the case (on the inside) black, so you cant see in from the side. Thats the side where the motherboard will be installed.Make coverplates out of acrylic to cover cables, psu and waterpump.Make a hole in the bottom and in the backpanel for the new psu.File down the acrylic so it fits perfectly with the acrylic piece.Sleeve everything white, black and aqua.Hide as much of the cables as possibleInstall watercoolingHardware: MB: Gigabyte GA-F2A88XN-WIFI CPU: AMD A10-6800K RAM: Corsair Dominator Platinum 2x4gb 2133MHz SSD: Samsung 840 120gb PSU: Be-Quiet SFX 300W In V.2 I used AMDs Llano, and I fell in love. Since then I have been waiting for the next generation and now Trinity is here. When I have time for games I either play Starcraft 2 or Dota 2 and those arent really hardware demanding games, but the Trinity still is pretty good. So what I want is a HTPC but with possibilities of some simpler games to be played. So what I want to add for hardware is a m-itx motherboard for Trinity, socket FM2. As APU I want the best possible so Im trying to get a hold of a A10-6800K, and then add 2 sticks of 4GB DDR3 2133MHz ram. EKWB! Thank you for helping me. Be Quiet sponsored me with a Shadow Rock 2. Gigabyte sponsored me with a GA-F2A88XN-WIFI. MNPCTech sponsored me with this fan grill to have in the front, should look awesome! Clear Acrylic 120mm Overkill "Nautilus" PC Fan Grill from Mnpctech.com EK DCP 2.2 Combo: What Ive done so far is to strip the case from almost everything except the LCD and powerswitch. Front: Back: Left side: Right side. This is the side I want to paint black on the inside so you cant see into it from here. The acrylic is pretty messed up as you can see. It was that from the beginning. Many scratches. But at the same time I feel like it gives the case a kind of vintage look, I still want to make it look a bit nicer though. So I will start by cleaning and polish it as much as possible. Do any of you guys know how to remove scratches from acrylic? Clearcoat it? Use a little blowtorch? Any advice? First thing Im going to start with is to cut the acrylic maybe 3-4mm so it fits perfect with the white plate. Then paint the backside of the acrylic black. So this is what I have to work with for a couple of weeks: Will be updating as much as possible. Please comment and give me advice and tips. Everything and everyone is welcome. Thats all for today! :) Johan Nyman
  14. Hello to my Mod Zoo friends!! I would first like to thank everyone for following my last project, Grey Matter! I loved the support and kind words from everyone, it really motivated me throughout the build process. I always couldn't wait to post here to show you guys what I got done, thanks so much! The build is currently entered in the 2013 Cooler Master Contest, wish me luck!! I am trying to keep the ball rolling right into this next build, Black Frost, a Fractal Design Refine R4 case mod! I was originally planning a different mod, but I won this Refine R4 case in a case review giveaway here at the Mod Zoo. I will be posting a review here on the forums under the Fractal Design thread if you are interested in my opinion, the review will be up soon! The case was really nice so I decided not to waste any time and get on it! Thumbs up to Fractal on making a solid case! I am attempting to do something different and make this build a little bit more open concept and the goal is to have everything as neat as possible. Most systems are completely shrouded and the slack from the wires is smashed in a box basically. I want to have everything cut to exact lengths and attempt to minimize all slack. I am going with a black and white color scheme with chrome accents to cut down on full fledged paint job and keep this build clean. Remember to reference this first post for easy links to all the updates on this project! Update 1 : 2/3/2014 : Case Fabrication Update 2 : 2/10/2014 : Interior Panels and Bezel Work PC Components : *TBA - To Be Announced [] CPU : TBA [] MoBo : TBA [] RAM : TBA [] GPU : TBA [] PSU : eVGA 650W SuperNOVA [] SSD : Samsung Evo [] OPT : TBA (possibly none) [x] Case : Fractal Design Refine R4 Water Cooling : [] TBA Key Mods : <> Open concept. <> Chrome copper tubing. <> Solid PSU wires cut to length. <> Hand made acrylic reservoir, possibly another style waterfall. <> More TBA. I am proud and honored to already have picked up a sponsor for this build: Huge thanks to Casefeet.com. They have some super beast mode case feet! I am really happy and excited to have them on board! Checkout the site by clicking the logo! This post will be updated with more information as the build goes on. With all that taken care of, on to the first update! First things first the base of this creation! The Pearl Black Fractal design Refine R4! Here are some photos of the case, taking it to a blank canvas. The blank canvas!:clap: Measured lines to cut the bottom metal out for better air flow for my floor mount radiator Ill be installing. Unpacked these goodies from Casefeet.com! They came thoroughly wrapped and protected! I picked up some 1.5" ID O-rings from McMaster Carr on my way home from work the other day and rolled them onto the case feet into the milled grooved for the black stripe effect. There are other ways to make the effect its up to your imagination! I am still plotting the exact placement for them, I will decide when I cut out the bottom panel. These are the 24" x 36" sheets of acrylic for the build, also from McMaster Carr. ( I love living 20 minutes from there! :D ) I will most likely have to get more but I am starting with two sheets of each color. I started making the cuts to create the floor inside the case. I like working with a flat even floor from the start. It makes for good panel mounting and a nice clean look. I made some 1/2" strips for the floor supports. Then Ill be cementing them to the floor panel after i make my radiator cuts and drill my holes for the panel standoffs. One of my favorite tools here for making precise marks to mount my fence when making router cuts! Every mark its right on the money at all times! Test Fitting of the floor panel resting on its support strips. I had some left over U-channel molding from MNPCtech.com from my last build so I put it to use. I covered it with Rustoleums version of plastic-dip so I could make it white. Then I trimmed out the front area where Ill be making a 240mm radiator mount. Here is a final shot of where I am sitting now, and a shot showing how the PSU will be oriented, and I set in a spare radiator for perspective. The build will actually be using a 240mm rad in that location. Well that is where I left off last night. I would of liked to been further along but I had another little side project and was busy with the holidays. this build may move a little slower at first because I am currently saving money to buy a nice CNC when I get my taxes back. Once I get that, this build will take off and Ill be taking my modding to the next level! I am super stoked for that! Thanks for checking out the build log thus far, stay tuned there is much more to come!!
  15. Time to explain how to make acrylic tubing * my english is not THAT good!!!! First of al, search and use object for the bends, i prefer steel, it keeps the heat stuck, and doesnt cool down your acrylic pipe that quick. Always make the tube longer than u need!, the bends can not come out how u want sometimes (weakspots) I use a Power suply 7mm thick cord (EU) I prefer a hairdryer, because u cannot overheat the tube and it wont make it to warm so you pull the tube flat. If the tube is hot enough, u cant start bending the pipe, dont pull to hard otherwise u get a flat spot at the end of the pipe. If u are at the point that your tubing is bend and lined up with the fittings u can cut it to size I used a cheapo rotary tool and a dremel atachment (sanding barrel P120) My working situation xD! Tape it 7/8mm of the edge, so you know you dont get an ugly spot above your fitting only sand the tube till its frosted! dont use pressure, dont create flatspots, the pipe is sold as 12mm but the exact size is 12.3/12.7! so yes just a little touch all around is enough! finish it up with sandpaper Grid P400 so the rubber ring wil fit nicely! Test the fitting
  16. Completed Log Sept. 2009 Final Photos CPU Magazine July 2010 issue spread (digital edition) Well, here we are again. Every couple of years or so, I build a new 'main' rig, and I tend to refer to it as "Lumière Noire" each time. So if this is confusing, it's understandable. I had attempted to log the last version of "Lumière Noire" over at B-T, but right in the middle of it, I had decided to build a new rig. So, of course, the old one was scooted away like a bowl of cold mushy oatmeal. Hey, upgrading does it, right? Regardless, this is my main rig. This is my big beast. This is my pinnacle of evolution. This is my baby. Man, I'm a dork. Let's see what unfolds, shall we? I'll be building the current version of Lumière Noire around a Lian Li PC-A70B. Personally, I tend to go to LiLi most of the time because they're just a joy to cut on. Also, I'll state right now that I'm a W/Cer through-and-through. Basically every rig I build tends to be on water, and if not, they were originally meant to be. :lol:/> The system I am installing in this sucker is made up of a DFI DK X38-T2R board running a C2D e6850, 8GB Corsair Dominator DDR2 RAM, a single Raptor 150GB, and another WD Caviar Black 640GB for storage. Both of those will be housed in twin Scythe Quiet Drive HDD silencers. Graphics handled by an XFX GTX280. The PSU I chose was the awesomely quiet Ultra X3 1Kw. The CPU, GPU, and probably chipset will get pushed. The CPU, northbridge, and the GPU are all water-cooled using (some version of) EK's awesome blocks, in one form or another...but we'll get to that in due time. The fans. This theme was intended to be black and red from the get-go, because that's always the color-scheme I go with on Lumière Noire. So I wanted LED fans. Like I said, I'm a dork. I snagged five red LED Zalman ZM-F3 fans. I was using SilenX fans on the last version of the rig, but they aren't much for static pressure, or anything else for that matter, so I hopped on to Performance-PCs' site (PPC's is a mile away from me :)/>) saw that those just came out, so I ordered them and and picked them up the next day. All the acrylic work is simply a series of mathematical equations. Or vector, for short. Being a graphic designer, I tend to work in my native environment. I don't use Sketchup or anything like that, nor have the time to mess around with it. I draw 2-D illustrations (i.e. side, front, top, etc.) of the stock case and 'digitally mod' on top of it. It saves on paper. Also, I tend to generally tear apart the cases by removing the rivets while modding. I also measure everything and get it within a 1/16" tolerance or closer when designing my mockups. Accuracy is a necessity for such small spaces, or something like that. I tend to look at a case and 'see' what I want to do to it. Other mods jump out in the middle of it, or as I refer to as 'dynamic variables', lol. I know, sounds transcendent doesn't it? I hope not, as I'm not an expert or a mod-god or anything like that, nor would I pretentiously and narcissistically boast that as so. I just do what I do, just like the lot of you. I hope you like what I have to show, and I hope you don't feel like you wasted 10 mins of your life looking @ these things. Here's some stats... Current System Specs: Motherboard: DFI DK X38-T2R CPU: Intel C2D E6850 RAM: Corsair Dominator DD2-1066 4GB kit x 2 (8GB total) HDD1: System drive - Western Digital Raptor 150GB HDD2: Dump drive - Western Digital Caviar Black 640GB PSU: Ultra X3 1000w modular unit VGA: XFX GTX280 OPTICAL: Laptop slotload DVD burner with IDE-SATA conversion board Loop 1: CPU - Thermochill PA 120.2 Loop 2: Video card / Motherboard Chipset - Thermochill PA 120.3 Here's the case, all brand-new n' stuff. I'm unboxing it to make sure UPS Man's 'handywork' didn't, uhh...rupture anything. Taking the side panel off, you can see why I decided to go with this case. And if not, then just continue to read! Nice case! I love Lian Li. I can admit it. Here's the front panel. Nice. And as it breathes it first few breaths of life, I begin to strip parts of it off rudely and without remorse. :lol:/> Just excuse those things installed in the bays. I was measuring things. :D/> Overall, it's a gorgeous case for anyone to use just stock. But for me, that's not good enough. :lol:/> I've got to make it look like I want it to look. The mockup I came up with is as follows: Things may change; things may not. Who knows. I've got some more stripping to do before I cut on the case, coat the chassis, etc. But, let's mod, shall we? I'm going to install a window panel on the case. I just chose the Lian Li W-75B panel, for ease and it's just about what I was wanting. Besides, I need the stock panel for something else. ;)/> I'm modding this window panel though. The acrylic, frankly, sucks on these panels, and the screws have to match. Silver rivets FTL! ...and all drilled out. Holes enlarged for the larger socket cap screws to be used. Let's measure it for a custom window. And design it. I'm cutting this out of smoke gray acrylic, like the rest of the acrylic. I'm following the panel opening's curves so it looks flush and nice. ...Cut and installed. I always use large black oxide socket-cap screws on Lumière Noire. I love the look! Now, on to other things. The board. Okay, yeah. The board stock is nice. But again, I don't want it like that. So....I stripped all the stock cooling off. :lol:/> I decided I'm replacing the stock southbridge with an aftermarket Enzotech sink a bit larger and a bit more efficient. I didn't think the southbridge justified being in the loop, and I hate running massive amounts of hosing. ...and installed. Looks nice. And believe me guys, to those that are considering using anything from Enzotech, go for it. Quality is quite good. :thumleft: The mosfet sinks needed to go too. I decided on Thermalright sinks for these. There. All done. Nice! Now, for the northbridge. Okay, I want to add this to one of the loops. The problem is, at the time I got this board, there weren't much of any blocks that fit this chipset, and the ones that did I didn't care for. I sent an email to Eddy over at EK Water Blocks to see if he had anything in the works for the DFI boards. He didn't. So, I got an idea. :D/> I had a couple of these EK chipset blocks laying around. Since DFI decided to be a bit different and only use two mountpoints for their chipsets on the boards, I decided I'm just going to make a new top for one of these blocks. I measured it out and it looks like it'll be plenty of room for error. Plus, it'll be fun! So I started designing and came up with this. Measurements are pretty damn close. I'll tweak things a bit before I cut it, but it should work. I was thinking of cutting it out of 3/8" black acrylic, which should give it plenty of strength for mounting and it'll be nondescript and stealthy. :lol:/> Now, the CPU's block. I decided to ditch my old EK-Wave I was using for a higher-flow unit. I was going to go with Eddy's Supreme block, but decided to go for the proven D-Tek Fuzion. :thumleft: Nice! But-- :D/> It's not good enough for me stock. Gunmetal looks soooo cool. :headbang: ------------- Until the next update, I got nuthin'. :thumleft:
  17. Completed Log - Sept. 2009 Final Photos Time has come again for a new project log! I'm retiring my prior LAN rig, "Building Better Worlds", and putting it out to pasture. Hardware is getting a bit long in the tooth, but mostly I'm just bored with it. ;)/> I've decided I'm going to go to liquid in this LAN rig. I have an abundance of liquid cooling gear laying around that I hadn't even touched yet, so I figured I'd use it up before it rusts away into nothing. The chassis I decided on for this project is the Lian Li A05. I chose this particular case for a few reasons; there's a plethora of room inside due to the design and orientation of the tray, and it was bloody cheap at the time that I nabbed it. Oh, I should also state right now that the case has nothing to do with Chess, in case you're wondering about the name. ;)/> It's just a name that I was using when I was thinking stuff up a while back, and it just seemed to stick for some reason. This project really began, at least pre-planning, color-scheme, ideas, designing, etc. about 6 months ago (Nov. '08, I believe?) when I was hard at work on a commissioned build that used this very same chassis, and really enjoyed working with it at the time. It's getting the typical treatment of full powder coating, etc. But here's the funny thing; since I've been AFK for a couple months or so dealing with IRL stuff as well as other issues and have finally gotten around to getting back on the forums and actually starting this build, I've come to realize there's quite a few new projects on B-T that utilize the same exact bloody color-scheme! :hehe: So, I guess I'm going to get the usual, "ah, another white & black theme, huh?" etc. comments. Oh well. :sigh: What can I do, right? ;)/> In all seriousness, let's get right to it, shall we? Here's a mock-up of how things will look when finished... Here's some of the gear going in the rig... The system, at this time, will consist of: Mobo: Asus P5Q-E P45 CPU: C2D e6750 CPU GPU: XFX 8800GTS G80 HDD: Western Digital 640gb OS: ? Probably XP though Not exactly cutting-edge stuff, I know...but it's a LAN rig; not worried about it! It'll be plenty zippy for what I'm going to use it for. The GPU is my old (admittedly ancient) XFX 8800GTS G80 from an old Noire rig. It's going in the loop because I still have a EK water block for it. I've also replaced the original delrin top for it with a new acrylic top, as well as replacing the o-ring in it after a thorough cleaning that it probably needs. The CPU's block will be my old EK-Wave, but the delrin top has also been replaced with a new acrylic one as well as the o-ring. It's going to be fun cleaning these! :rolleyes:/> The typical mods will be performed on this chassis. I will be installing a triple rad up top with custom acrylic grills; a custom side panel with fan intakes; and I'll be modifying the chassis itself to enhance airflow because this chassis stock really suffers from awful airflow. I love these new Gelid fans. Well, they don't seem to be new anymore, but they're nice. I've been playing around with them. Pretty decent airflow for the noise level too. Frames seem kinda chintzy though. ;)/> The top rad will get some low-speed Akasa white LED pearl fans. I just loved how they looked. They may not move much air, but they don't really need to in order for them to do their jobs. Let's start to strip this thing down for sanding. Augh, sanding... :sigh: I need to yank literally everything off the case. Removing the rear fan is a breeze, at least! And the little rubber silencers too. Now, I'm only putting one HDD in this rig (that's all it needs), so I'm removing the entire stock HDD rack from the case. You'll see why in the near future! ;)/> Let's drill out those rivets, now... There. Easy! I love working on this chassis. Originally, I was going to install the HDD into the 3.5" bay, but I decided on a fan controller to go there. This one... So in order to mount the HDD, I acquired a little Lian Li HDD kit to mount onto the 3.5" bay's mount-holes. Perfect, and cheap too. The HDD will go in the top-most slot, and the DDC pump with Alphacool top will go in the bottom-most slot with mount-screws for it. Should work great and have just enough room for the hosing to be run without issue. I hope. A quick test-install of the Lian Li bracket along with a dead HDD I keep around just for this reason; testing! On to the liquid loop itself, I had an entirely untouched Swiftech MCR-320 sitting in my parts closet, so I figured what the hell. After a lot of measuring and re-measuring, instead of one of the handful of XSPC RX rads I've really been wanting to use, I decided to use this rad because it's thinner, lighter, and **ahem** cheaper **ahem**, so in the event of screwing up the rad I wouldn't be too upset. Why would I screw up the rad? Oh, I should probably show you then, right? ;)/> After a through cleaning with lacquer thinner and completely masking off the fins with some special high-temp tape... There we are.... And presto! :D/> Just to make sure I didn't bake the thing so bad that the plenum chambers and all the tubes inside have been ruined, I hooked up a quick little test-loop to check the rad's health out. After 24 hours of running the loop there wasn't a single leak, so it was a successful experiment! ------------- Until the next update, I got nuthin'. :thumb:
  18. I know that a number of modders have painted acrylic sheets with opaque paints in their mods. What I am looking at doing is painting or "tinting" a clear acrylic sheet with a transparent paint. The goal is a nicely tinted sheet that you can see through (although not necessarily clearly) but that doesn't look splattered or rough. I'm trying to save money rather than springing for a large sheet of acrylic that would likely be too dark for my use. Any ideas?
  19. How do you install acrylic on your window without using screws? The picture below is a Define R3 side panel. I was wondering on how they attached that without using any screws. Can anyone post a photo on how the side panel of the Define R3 looks like just to give me an idea?
  20. Oi! I was looking through my folder with modding-pictures and was reminded about my first real scratchbuild. This was what kinda got me into the modding-scene for real. Before I had just made simple casemods and watching everyone elses mods on forums. This started as a school project. You shouldve seen the look on my teacher when I said that I wanted to make a pc-case out of this Coca-Cola "bottle box". :D However, it turned out pretty good. I had seen other people make similiar things before, but nobody made it in a serious way. So that was my plan, to make it look really good. The hardware in this is nothing to talk about, changed it 2-3 times too. But I build the case around a m-atx motherboard. I started with cutting everything out of the box, installed two 120mm fans on both sides and installed a motherboard-plate with hinges. Then I put a plate in the bottom with some simple feet on and painted the motherboard tray black. Next thing I did was to make a top of acrylic and also put acrylic in the front-hole. Installed two red cathodes on the top, I have always hated cathodes in PC-mods but this really looked good. Hardware installed! One little detail Im proud over is the powerbutton, I was wondering what switch to use, when I got the idea to use a Coca-Cola bottlecap and glue it to a switch. Tada! Glowing "Coca-cola cube" next to the first pieces of my other build Cold Winter. Well well, here is the final pictures of the case. That was a little history about me! Thanks Johan Nyman
  21. Completed Log June 2008 Final Photos It's that time again. And this time, it's time for a new log from ole' E.E.L. Ambiense. It'll mostly be dress-up/paint/etc. This case will be used for my tote-around LAN system. The hardware is from my old Drone I mod, since I decided to retire the old gal (the hardware's getting long in the tooth too...). The mod theme will be based around the film series of Aliens & stuff (again...), this time the favorite ominous "Company" that is repeatedly sited throughout the good (and bad) films in the series. Weyland-Yutani Corp.; "Building Better Worlds"! I plan on making the case look like some kind of company terminal/workstation kind of thing. I dunno. :confused: Like I said, dress-up. Like I used to do with my mom's lingerie. :eyebrow: What can I say? Good support, you know? :naughty: Final Hardware Specs: DFI Lan Part UT SLI-DR Expert mobo AMD 939 X2 4200+ CPU (2.2 stock) 2GB Crucial Ballistix DDR500 RAM w/ modded Evercool 60mm x 10mm aluminum fans cooling them WD Raptor 74GB SATA HDD BFG Tech 7800GT's in SLi, stealthing plated with debadged/modded Arctic Cooling Accelero X1's Creative Sound Blaster Live! 5.1 Platinum soundcard, stealthing plated Ultra XVS 700W PSU modded with Xinruilian 80mm green led fans, sleeved and re-molexed EVGA 680i MCP fan, modded, for chipset cooling Cooler Master Aerogate I rheobus, modded Stealthed and modded NEC DVD-RW Drive Thermalright XP-90 CPU cooler w/ modded Evercool 92mm aluminum fan 80mm green LED aluminum-frame fans, modded The victim for the new mod is this: An aging classic; Cooler Master's Praetorian PAC-T01-E1. The moment I saw this case years back, I fell in love with it. And this is coming from a LiLi whore too! But like many things in the computer realm, it got tossed aside for bigger better newer (like my lovelife...). Stock, she has 2 80mm's up front; 1 80mm blowhole; 1 80mm exhaust. Augh. I plan on adding a window, complete with a 120mm fan blowing in on the two 7800GT's in SLi. She needs more air, but I really don't want to cut on her! To paraphrase Dracula, "I just...love her too much...to condemn her...." :D/> Here's a quick dirty mockup of what I plan on doing to her... Anyways, structurely, she's gorgeous. Thick aluminum everywhere. Reinforced removeable mobo tray. Awesomeness. The plan is to strip her down to bare parts, remove all annodization, and cleanse and powder coat different parts in different colors. I've already jumped the gun, as they say, because I was shooting something in gloss black last week, so I removed the top and front mesh from the case to shoot it as well. I mean, why change out the powder twice, right? :)/> I have some designing done already for the misc. acrylic accouterments I plan on adding to the build, because like usual....acrylic's my canvas of choice for modding. I decided I'm going to add acrylic 'plates' on the video cards like I've done with my (not yet revealed) main rig I built last year already. Hard to explain, I suppose. I needed to measure the card's PCB to get accurate sizing for a digital mockup of it so I can make the covers for it. I'll let the pics do the talking... Measured the card... Illustrating it right down to 1/16th of an inch, complete with theme-related 'stuff'. It's pretty close, but it has to be for what I need it for. Yes, right down to the SLi bridge for clearance! :thumb: *Warp to another thing....* Installed the Accelero X1 to the card... I don't like that big-a*s sticker on there, so I debadged it. Still filthy, but better than before. I think I'm going to add something here....hmmmm...... :D/> I'll come back to video cards later. I want to get started on another part (Sorry...I tend to jump around a LOT when modding!) I plan on adding a custom RAM cooler as well that I'll make out of acrylic (of course). After measuring everything, the biggest fans I can get in there comfortably would be 60mm's, and that's cutting it close to the CPU cooler. I plan on using two Aluminum-framed Evercool 60mm x 10mm fans in which I'll, of course, powder coat the frames themselves to match with the theme. I have some other things in mind as well, but I'll wait until I get to them. Here's the digital illustration of the RAM cooler: As you can see, I plan on mounting this thing to the rear 80mm fan, with a 90-degree bend so it sits right over the two RAM modules. These aren't called Ballistix for nothing :lol:/>! ------------- Until the next update, I got nuthin'. :thumb:
  22. Hello. I want to mill out a channel from 3/4" Acrylic. Does anyone have any ideas about how I could do this using a straight-up rotary tool? I'd like to avoid dropping $150+ on a milling machine when a) I don't have $150+ and B)/> when it's a $30 project in total. Thanks all, ~TehYoyo
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