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Using Modder's Mesh is a very easy way to add some cool Mods to your PC. I was at Bill Owen's shop, MNPCTECH, the other day to check out the Darkside LED's strips, which are really nice, easy to mount and super bright. Get them here: http://mnpctech.com/pc-window-kits/blue-12-30cm-dimmable-pc-led-strip.html Bill and I then started throwing around an idea of applying Modder's Mesh to the Drive bays of my Corsair C70 Vengeance. I was already planning on encasing my power supply to help hide the cables etc. Bill was able to fabricate the initial 5/3.5 side bay drives within 5 minutes. That next weekend I decided to go ahead and finish up where we left off and add a small corner to Bill's initial panel and finish the cage for the power supply. The rest is my Modder's Mesh journey. Enjoy! I forgot to add the specs of this build, here they are: Keep in mind that all of the components are 5 years old (they were in a box waiting for me to build this BIG LMAO) Case: Corsair Vengeance C70 Motherboard: ASUS Striker Formula II Republic Of Gamers ROG CPU: Intel® Core™2 Quad Processor Q9650 (12M Cache, 3.00 GHz, 1333 MHz FSB) CPU Cooler! Zalman CNPS9900A LED NOTE: I don’t give a rats feces generator, I love these BIG feces generator Copper loving bastards! They cool perfectly! (OK, my next build in Aug 2014 will be 100% water cooled, just saying) Memory: Kingston HyperX 800mhz ddr2 4gb kitgston hyperx 800mhz ddr2 4gb kit Memory cooler Kingston HyperX KHX-FAN Fans Hard Drives OS/Programs: Western Digial VelociRaptor 250 GB X 4 RAID 0 Samsung 840EVO 250GB (Back up for all 4 Raptor’s) Sound Card: ASUS SupremeFX GPU/Video cards NVIDIA GTX 550Ti X 2 Power Supply KINGWIN Mach 1 ABT-1000MA1S 1000W ATX / BTX SLI Certified CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply Optical Drives: lg modisc optical drive X 2 Fan Controllers KINGWIN FPX-001 4-Channel Fan Controllers X 2 Case Fans: Corsiar Air Series high-airflow case fans Am I missing something? The top 3 reason I like to use Modder's Mesh are: 1. It's a very easy metal to bend and form to any shape imaginable. 2. It's very easy to cut, especially if you want to use it to mount like those cool digital temperature gauges. 3. You can use pop rivets to attache one peace to another or assemble cages/boxes or attach it to your PC frame. Modder's Mesh is a great medium, especially for beginners just getting into modding. It's easy to use and really easy to paint and it is extremely durable. Here is my C70 and the Modder's Mesh. I'm using the round hole style found here: http://mnpctech.com/case-mods-gaming-pc-liquid-modding-custom-computer-mnpctech-overclock-cooling-fan-grills/modders-mesh-perforated-aluminum-steel-honeycomb-grill-intake-front-fan-slotted-diamond-round-hex/modders-mesh.html Next I'll test fit the mesh inside my case, just above my Power Supply and all the way to the back of the case. This is where the mesh slide in between the power supply case bracket and power supply. I'm now going to mark the mesh just a little over the edge of the power supply. I want to make sure and give a little room for the bend, and a small amount of space between the mesh and power supply surface. This is the "Bend" mark, where I will actually bend the Mesh Now I'll measure the distance between the top and bottom of the Power supply and then cut off the excess. This is the addition space from the first bend to the bottom of the new mesh cage. I always use a good straight edge or metal "T" Square when I work with Modder's Mesh. I get a true 90 degree square corners this way. Here are my first two bend marks: Use a good set of tin snips when cutting Modder's MEsh. I swear, if you use your wife's, mom's or GF scissors, they will get pissy and pissy quick! Here we go, nice and straight cut. Now for the bending. If your like me you don't have a 5K bending machine. You can use a vise or you can use two pieces of wood planks and sandwich the mesh between them, right at your bend mark, like this: Use a couple wood clamps to hold the mesh in place while bending. I slowly and evenly start my bend, using my hands to create a nice even bend; Now, I'll use a metal roller to go over the bend and make it nice and tight. I'll roll of the bend a good 3-4 times, back and forth to create a super nice corner bend. Don't worry if the mesh is a little uneven at the ends, it will straighten out one you complete the end cap and rivet the cage together. Now for a quick test fit: This area on top of the power supply and near the PCI slots needs to be cut out to allow the cage to slide all the way to the back of the case. So I make a simple mark on my screw driver and that will be the notch out of the mesh I'll need to cut out and get a nice clean fit. A little snip and it fits perfect. The I roll these edges out with the roller as well. Nice clean fit: Now I need to make the "end cap" for the cage. I need to have a little overlap so that the end cap will fit inside the cage. I'll use rivets to put it all together later. I've already made my bend marks and now it's time for the first bend to the "End Cap". This next bend is for the edge, it's small enough that I only need to use my wood clamp: And here we go. All I have to do is snip off this little excess on the end, use my roller to straighten out all the edges and it's ready for sanding and paint. Use my roller to straighten out all the edges Red Bull, Vodka and a Ryobi sander. As you can see I have the mesh ready for sanding. I'm just using a 400 grit but a 100 would work fine too. Sanding we will go. And the sanding is complete. This is the Paint I'm going to use. It actually has a chrome looking finish to it. Plus it's a primer paint all in one. On this bare metal, it works great. First coat 2nd coat Time for the rivet gun. I'm using 1/8" 3 mm rivets which fit perfect with the round modder's mesh. Time for the rivets. Final 2 coats over the rivets and cage to complete it out. And here is the finished cages, all painted up and ready to go. Mounted over the power supply, looking very nice. Here are both the drive bay cage and power supply cage mounted; And there we have it. A nice, easy mod for your PC. You can do this in one afternoon. let the paint dry at least 24 hours before you mount the cages. It normally takes a good 7 days for paint to cure, but if it's inside your case, you'll have no issues. So now I want to give you an idea of just how bright these Darkside LED strips from MNPCTECH are. I love these lights, super bright and easy to install. If it takes you more than 2 minutes to install, you really shouldn't have a PC, or operate one without a parent or guardian present. Buy them here: http://mnpctech.com/pc-window-kits/blue-12-30cm-dimmable-pc-led-strip.html
comptoir-hardware ocaholic custompcmax Corsair Guru3D Hello guys. I'm new here and thought I'd share my project with you guys.. This is my first ever project, most from old and second hand stuff so it's not being build for performance.. It is however themed to be a military build so it'll be build around the following.. ASUS Sabertooth 990FX Amd FX-8120 16GB Corsair Vengeance Memory nVidia GTX470's Corsair TX850 Corsair Vengeance C70 (Military Green) Everything will be watercooled apart from the Sabertooth to keep the color scheme.. Sponsors First off all I'd like to give a massive thanks for all my sponsors. Akasa for sponsoring the superb Akasa Apache fans, Corsair for sponsoring one of their awesome TX850 power supplies and MNPCTECH for providing the stunning replacement side window for the C70.. ....................................................... Fans sponsored by Akasa Power supply sponsored by Corsair Case mods sponsored by Mnpctech Link to Corsair c70 replacement windows.... http://www.mnpctech.com/Corsair_c70_vengeance_clear_window_replacement.html ............................................. Final Photos
Hello boys and girls, I am back with another build log. This time I will be using a Corsair C70 in Gunmetal Black. The idea is to create a nice clean fully water cooled system and to use the space inside the C70 as efficiently as possible. Most of the components that will be going into the system I already have. One item that am am on the hunt for is a motherboard. My two favorites right now are the Sabertooth Z77 board and the MSI Z77 MPower board. The build specs are as follows: CPU, i5-3570K GPU, GTX 670 Power, AX650 Mem, Mushkin Blackline Ridgeback 8GB Storage, Undecided but I do have a Force 3 60GB SSD I can use Motherboard, MSI Z77 MPOWER Water cooling: XSPC Raystorm CPU block XSPC Razer GTX 680 GPU Block XSPC EX240 or EX360 XSPC RX240 Bitspower Z-Multi 150 reservoir XSPC DDC Pump Top Swiftec Pump Bitspower fittings. As for any mods that I will be doing, not sure on everything yet but I will be replacing the window panel and I will be using custom made paracord extension cables. I would also like to try and use hard piping for the water loop. I will be editing this post with pics and updates. Here are the first pics of the case fresh out of the box. Playing with the special effect :)/> Got myself some dark grey paracord from the local army surplus store. This is the first time I have ever used paracord for sleeving, Previously I used the inexpensive plastic sleeving from Frys. The paracord is so much nicer imo. :)/> All finished with the sleeving. I wanted to do a black stripe down the middle of the cables but the army surplus store was all out of black. I am not very patient so I just went ahead with all grey. :rolleyes:/> Here are the home made tools I used to remove the pins from the plastic connectors. Update #1 I got the system together in order to plan my water loop and to allow the system to continue being useful while I wait for a new motherboard. The bottom rad mounts in the C70 where not ideal when using a thick rad so I had to improvise. Luckily the perforation on the floor of the C70 allow perfect spacing to offset the rad. I had to move the rad forward and to the outside. Still there is a tight fit. I mounted the res to the upper hard drive cage using some motherboard standoffs. Here is a shot of the full system together using the Asus Maximus IV Gene Z/Gen 3 I have decided on the MSI Z77 MPOWER motherboard which I will modify a little to get rid of the yellow accents. Here is the stock board right out of the box. And here is the modified board with brushed metal decals over the yellow accents. Update 2/3/2013 I am testing out some ideas to make the rads look better without stripping them down and painting them. Update:2/8/2013 Here are the tools I used to fit the tubing. Working on the tubing, This was my very first time doing anuthing like this, I made a few mistakes in measuring, sure glad I bought more then I needed, also the bender is not very good for this job. I was not able to make multi angle bends with it and had to change my tubing layout a little. Finished the tube cutting and fitting Tubing painted black and I am finally leak testing the system.