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Found 9 results

  1. Anidees AI7 ATX Case Review

    Mosquito takes a look at the Anidees AI7 ATX case in this review. Be sure to subscribe to TheModZoo to be sure you don't miss future reviews and videos!
  2. We talk about the recent INWIN Case Mod Competition. What's it like being a Professional Modder? Our guests are Bob & Rod from BSMods, Lee Harrington from PCJunkieMods and Ron Lee Christianson from Blue Horse Studios! Subforum for these weekly hangouts to ask questions An audio only version can be found HERE Be sure to subscribe to TheModZoo for more!
  3. Hi guys, Been a while since I've been active on the forums I've been super busy with a new job, move to a different city and pretty much a whole new life! Glad to say that I'm back and with a very exciting project! As the banner suggests it will be based on the Dead Space games and it's my entry for this year's Cooler Master Case Mod World Series as well as the ANZ Edition of the "World Series". I am going all out with for this project and trying some modding techniques I haven't done before so stay tuned and enjoy the build log! I'm gonna give a little hint and say that this will NOT be a clean build I would like to say a huge thanks to Cooler Master Australia for giving me this opportunity as well as ASUS Australia, Kingston HyperX, Avexir, Bitspower, Primochill, CableMod, PLE Computers and a new addition from a friend of mine, Kristian from MercoMods! SPECS Case - Cooler Master MasterCase 5 Maker Motherboard - ASUS Maximus VIII Extreme Assembly CPU - Intel i7 6700K Memory - 4 x 4GB Avexir ROG Certified Red Tesla 2400Mhz DDR4 GPU - 2 x ASUS STRIX GTX 980 SSD - 2 x Kingston HyperX Fury 240GB SSDs PSU - Cooler Master V1000 Cables - CableMod Fully Custom Individually Sleeved Cables + MercoMods Custom Braided Extensions LEDs - CableMod Magnetic RGB LED Strip Radiators - Bitspower Leviathan Slim 240 Radiator, Bitspower Leviathan Xtreme 360 Radiator Fans - CoolerMaster JetFlo 120mm Red and White LED fans Pump - Laing D5 with Black Bitspower MOD Package - Pump Top + Casing Reservoir - Bitspower D5 Top Upgrade Kit 150 with Cascade Tube Effect Fittings - PrimoChill Revolver SX Matte Black + Various Bitspower Carbon Black angle fittings and extensions Tubing - PrimoChill Copper Tubing CPU Block - Bitspower Summit EF GPU Block - 2 x Bitspower VG-NGTX980ADIIS For now I'll start with the packages received from Cooler Master: A mysterious box (though the thread title might hint at what's inside) JetFlo fans and a V1000 power supply Stay tuned for more guys! Cheers, Alex
  4. Project -Cosmic Dust-

    Hello all! :D I have just registered MOD ZOO! The theme for this time is "Cosmic Dust". Yes, change the project title! :lol: I've tried to challenge the new spray painting. It's like a cosmos... B) I'm already getting parts and putting them together. I plan to make a mini-ITX water cooled system. I have wanted to build a mini-ITX water cooled system for quite some time! Special Thanks to the sponsors! Fractal Design MSI nanoxia I wish to express my appreciation!! -System- CASE: Fractal Design CORE500 PSU: Fractal Design Edison M 550W CPU: Core i5-6500(Skylake) MB: MSI Z170I GAMING PRO AC VGA: MSI GTX 970 4GD5T OC V1 RAM: G.Skill DDR4-2400 Dual Channel Ripjaws V Steel Blue 16GB SSD: OCZ Trion 100 SSD 240GB HDD: Seagate ST4000DM000 4TB See you later :D
  5. Project Oceanus

    Hello to all Mod zoo users,today im here to present to you my most recent watercooling project. First the choice of the case was a personal choice,due to the case having lots of modding potencial and pf course of the dimension of it also helped ,it also alowed the instalation of a different radiator setup, that´s rigth im going to use four radiators in this project,im glad the case has wheels or it wouldnt move. The case choosen for the project is a Phobya WaCoolT UltraBig case,the case is basicly a beast,and it´s very easy to work with due to the screws system. The name of the project is due to the massive amount of water it will have in the watercooling system. Oceanus (/oʊˈsiːənəs/; Greek: Ὠκεανός Ōkeanós,[2] pronounced [ɔːkeanós]) was a pseudo-geographical feature in classical antiquity, believed by the ancient Greeks and Romans to be the divine personification of the World Ocean, an enormous river encircling the world. Strictly speaking, Oceanus was the ocean-stream at the Equator in which floated the habitable hemisphere (οἰκουμένη, oikoumene).[3] In Greek mythology, this world-ocean was personified as a Titan, a son of Uranus and Gaea. In Hellenistic and Roman mosaics, this Titan was often depicted as having the upper body of a muscular man with a long beard and horns (often represented as the claws of a crab) and the lower body of a serpent (cf. Typhon). On a fragmentary archaic vessel of circa 580 BC (British Museum 1971.11-1.1), among the gods arriving at the wedding of Peleus and the sea-nymph Thetis, is a fish-tailed Oceanus, with a fish in one hand and a serpent in the other, gifts of bounty and prophecy. In Roman mosaics, such as that from Bardo he might carry a steering-oar and cradle a ship. Some scholars believe that Oceanus originally represented all bodies of salt water, including the Mediterranean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean, the two largest bodies known to the ancient Greeks. However, as geography became more accurate, Oceanus came to represent the stranger, more unknown waters of the Atlantic Ocean (also called the "Ocean Sea"), while the newcomer of a later generation, Poseidon, ruled over the Mediterranean. Hardware: Will be revelaed later. Watercooling: The list is a little big but i will post it here later as well. Now the part that you like of course...the PHOTOS:D:rock: Unboxing of the case: [ As i said previously it has lots of space to work with and for all the hardware i want to use in it. Watercooling : Just a little preview of some of the watercooling material and cabling i will use in the project,still missing a few details on the material as well,for it to be perfect and to route the watercooling loops as i desire:thumb: Now the most important,the sexy case photos : Just look how small the mini-itx motherboard looks inside the case hahaha:D,and of course i think i migth rent some space of the case as a hostel if anyone is interested in speding some holidays in Portugal just ring me:D:thumb: The Oceanus project wouldnt be possible withouth the help of Aquatuning.de,many thanks to them,if you look for watercooling material for a build dont hesitate to drop by at their website!! Supported by: Regarding the case you can expect a facelift,start to the case paint,altougth i love black,i must change the color of it,the case is now at the paint shop:D:thumb: A teaser of the case painting: Front and the interior of the case: Front panel of the case: Interior and back panel of the case: Front and interior of the case: Side panel in wich there will be a Phobya 1080 rad. So what do you think of the painting? Still missing the tray and other minor parts of the case.:thumb:
  6. ROG 900D Tricolor Build

    Given that virtually all of the case modding skills I have attained so far have come from this forum, I thought it would be appropriate to post my current build log. I am always looking for suggestions on ways to better the build and improve my modding/rig-building capability, so please don't hesitate to critique. ROG 900D Tricolor Build: Completed Welcome to my ROG 900D Tricolor Build. My goal in this build was not only to draw upon the inspiring work of other modders and enthusiasts, but to try to be uniquely original and innovative. It is for this reason that I chose three colors for my ROG themed build (as opposed to the all-to-common red/black combo). This goal is also what motivated me to try some mods/customizations that I have yet to see in other builds. I hope that you like the end product as much as I enjoyed getting there, and I appreciate feedback in whatever form. Final Pics: One through the side panel window with LED’s: System Specs: Chassis: Corsair 900D Motherboard: ASUS RIVE BE CPU: i7 4930k (currently clocked @ 44x) RAM: 4x 8GB 2400 MHz G-Skill Ripjaws Z GPU: EVGA GTX 780ti Superclocked Edition PSU: Corsair ax1200i w/ custom sleeved modular cables by Ensourced. SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 512GB HDD: WD Black 1TB OS: Windows 8.1 Pro x64 Display: 2x ASUS VG248QE Monitors - Calibrated w/ Datacolor Spyder Pro Keyboard: Razer Deathstalker Ultimate - LCD Screen used for system stats via custom scripted applet (i.e. temps, clocks, voltages, etc...) Mouse: Roccat Kone XTD Cooling: CPU Block: EK Supremacy: Clean CSQ (Clear Plexi) GPU Block: EK Full Cover Block for GTX 780ti (Plexi & Nickel/Original CSQ) w/ Backplate SB & Mofset Blocks: EK RIVE-BE Full Board Waterblocks (Plexi & Nickel/ Original CSQ) Reservoirs: EK Multioption x3 250 w/ Multiport Top and Red Harbinger Cover; Monsoon Series 2 Bay Res w/ Swiftech D5 Drive integrated 2nd Pump: Swiftech MCP35x Radiators: 2x Alphacool Nexxos UT60 480mm Fittings: Mostly Primochill Rigid Ghost Compressions Fittings, Koolance QDCs; 2 Koolance Fitting Accessories (45 Degree adapter & 90 Degree Low Profile Adapter); EK standoff fittings Tubing & Coolant: Primochill Rigid Acrylic (Clear) & Primochill Rigid PETG (Clear) Mayhem’s Pastel Blood Red Fans: 8x Corsair SP120s; 4x Noctua NF-F12s; 2x Corsair AF140s; 2x Corsair AF120s Fan Controller: Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 Pro w/ Passive Heatsink -Accessories - 2x Temp Probes; 1x Aquacomputer Inline Flow Meter; 1x AQC Inline Temperature Sensor; 1x 2-pin PWM connector LED’s: 3x 12” Darkside Dimmable White LED strips; 2x Logysis White LED Corner Sticks Modding & Customization: Note: The red in the build is Duplicolor Red Metal Specks, and the gray is Duplicolor Cast Coat Iron Engine Enamel. 900D Front Plate Mod: This case modification is based upon Bill Owen’s tutorial at MNCP Tech. I did make a slight change, in that I did not want to lose the Corsair logo at the bottom of the plate. I left an extra 2” on the bottom and an extra 1” on the top, and then I covered the Corsair logo with automotive masking tape and carefully cutout the general outline of the logo with a utility knife. The ROG logo is a sticker. As a final revision, I painted the steel mesh gray. Here is a shot of my plate: Here is a link to Bill Owen’s tutorial for those who are interested: http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/633-diy-case-mod-guide-corsair-900d-front-grill/ If you have never watched any of Bill’s guide’s, and are interested in case modification, you should have a look… I learned most of the techniques I implemented from he and the rest of themodzoo.com. 5.25” Bay Recess Panels: While I love many things about the 900D, I find the decision to make the sides of the 5.25” drive bays recessed (upon removing the covers) to be a horrible one. - One can see that when the slot covers are removed for installation of bay devices, the chassis is blemished by the front I/O cover and front plate not sitting flush with the 5.25” area, as well as by the bizarre rectangles/squares that are exposed (this part of the bezel is plastic and does not match the rest of the front in color). After failing to cut the plastic of the slot covers in order to reattach the outsides only, I decided the best way to go would be to use 3mm plexi plates that I cut to size, painted and attached. I think it came out well (better than the default at least): Now, I don’t claim to be a master modder (or anything close to it), and there are probably much more efficient ways of doing this, but I thought I’d just do a quick guide on how I made these plates: 1) I cut a piece of clear 3mm plexi with a jewelers saw (although a dremel or hacksaw will work), making sure to cut it slightly larger than the measured dimensions. 2) I then used a metal hand file to sand the piece down to size. 3) I then used some white plastic primer as a base coat… however, if I could do it all over again I would’ve used adhesion promoter or SEM self-etching primer as opposed to plastic primer. I find that it lays flat and doesn’t chip. Here is a shot of one after being primed: 4) I used Rustoleum Semi-Flat Black Enamel for a top/color coat. Because they will not match the brushed aluminum effect of the I/0 cover or 5.25” slot covers, I removed and painted these as well. 5) In order to attach the pieces such that they will sit at the correct depth, another 3mm’s of thickness is needed. I originally just stacked another piece of plexi to make up the difference, but I found another way that I prefer: using 3M double sided mounting tape (the white foam type), stack two pieces when sticking the plates on… the tape is about 1.3” thick, so by doubling it up it your plates will sit at the right depth. Note: Since writing this part of the guide, I switched to only two bay devices. I therefore cut these plates into four total: one on each side of a single 5.25” bay device and one on each side of a dual 5.25” bay reservoir. Painted Top Grill: This was painted in the same way that I paint all metal pieces: scuff, clean, prime with SEM self-etching primer, wait an hour and then apply topcoat. Be careful when detaching the metal grill from the plastic framing of the top panel. The metal grill is attached with tabs that are prone to breaking off when Bent too many times. I painted the metal grill gray: Painted Bottom Side Doors: In the interest of consistency, I decided to paint the hinged side panels at the bottom of the chassis the same color. Pretty simple again: detach the hinged panels, mask off the area you don’t want to paint, scuff with red scotchbrite pads, prime with SEM self-etching primer, and then paint. I also removed and painted the plastic latches red in order to keep with the theme: Painted Faceplates of Monsoon Bay Res and Aquaero 6 Pro Faceplate: For these it was just a matter of removing the aforementioned pieces, then painting according to my usual method of scuffing, SEM priming and topcoating. I painted them gray and reattached: Painted ROG Logo on Right Side Panel: I decided (out of boredom one night, really) to paint a red ROG logo on the right side panel. I first made an ROG logo stencil, masked off the side panel with Sticky Mickey’s Automotive Detailing masking tape, placed the stencil over the tape, and then used an exacto knife with very light pressure to cut out the logo. I then proceeded to paint in my usual manner: scuff, prime and paint. It came out pretty well, so I kept it: The Ludicrously Long Fillport: There is no way to add a top mounted, external fill port on the 900D. I find this to be frustrating, so this was an attempt at getting around it. In all honesty, I would have to say that this is the most disappointing of all the mods I made on the build. I did not consider that when using Mayhem’s Pastel coolant, the nano-particles fall out of suspension if the coolant is not mobilized. Therefore, my fill line (which is not a part of the loop due to it not having any coolant flow) contains coolant that is slightly opaque, and the bottom of the tube is lined with silt… oh well, Hardly noticeable: Coldzero Plates: If you own a 900D and have not checked out coldzero.eu, then I highly recommend that you do. The plates will transform your build, and the gentleman who runs it provides reasonable prices, incredible shipping, and outstanding customer service. For example, I asked for a custom part in the order notes of an order I made, and he was so generous that he cut out the plexi for free and did so in record time. Anyway, I have installed the following plates: 1) 900D Back Panel 2) 900D Motherboard Tray: with EATX MB cutout, cable routing cuts, and reservoir mounting holes predrilled. 3) 900D Long Midplate (Plexi) w/ Corsair Logo: All of the logos are plexi cutouts, and so I painted mine to match my build: 4) HDD Cage Backplate w/ ROG Logo (Custom Part): One thing to note about painting the plexi logos is that you mustn’t apply too much paint (if any) to the sides of the cutouts, as they will not fit back in if you do. I used adhesion promoter primer, painted and then thinned out all of the paint along the sides of the pieces in order to ensure that they would fit… it was still tight, and the pieces on the midplate still sit out just the slightest bit; however, I actually kind of like the effect, so I’m going to keep it. 5) 5.25” Left Plate Clear (no cutouts for mounting an SSD): That’s not a cutout logo on the 5.25” plate. It is a sticker, but it blends seamlessly I think: Drilling Passthrough Holes into Midplate for Tube Routing: If you are reading this thread, you are probably familiar with watercooling… at least to a degree. I have a 480mm Rad at the bottom of my 900D, so in order for my loop to reach it I had to drill holes for passthrough fittings. This is somewhat of a nerve-racking endeavor, as plexiglass can crack easily – especially when it is only 3mm thick. My method of drilling was to use a dremel to drill a pilot hole, and I then used a step-bit up to 7/8”. I finish reaming out the remainder with a sanding bit on the dremel. Use masking tape to prevent scratching the plate, put a wooden block under the plate (so that the step-bit has something to drill into), go slow without too much pressure, watch out for melting due to heat, and use clamps to hold the plate in place. Installed Handle at Front of Chassis: “Why only one?” you might be asking. The handle I installed is intended simply so that I have something to grab when I pull the PC out from under my desk and turn the case for maintenance, etc… The handle I installed is not strong enough to bear the weight of a fully watercooled 900D (and neither am I for that matter ;): Custom Painted Fittings: I have searched around quite a bit and have not seen a single build in which custom painted fittings were used. This I find surprising, given the limited range of color options available. I imagine that the issue is fear of getting paint or other harmful chemicals into the loop. After switching to rigid tubing, the following is no longer applicable to this build; however, I thought I would leave it in the log for those who are interested in painting their flex tubing compression fittings. To paint the compression collars for Primochill’s rigid ghost compression fittings, simply scuff, prime and paint. No part of the collar comes into contact with liquid, so the measures to prevent overspray from contaminating the loop are not necessary. Painted EK Clear Acrylic Waterblocks/Bridges: Like painted fittings, I am surprised that I could not find any builds with this modification… in fact, I couldn’t even find a thread where the idea was mentioned. Here is the issue I sought to remedy: I really like how the clear acrylic versions of EK waterblocks and accessories allow the coolant color to show through; however, most of the block is not filled with coolant, so you end up with a little bit of color and a whole lot of satin-clear acrylic, which I find to be an eyesore. My thinking was that there is no reason for the entirety of the block to be clear acrylic… only the part through which coolant passes. The rest should fit the build theme. I went about painting the pieces like this: 1) I used a little blue dye and some distilled water to locate the channels within the block that would be visible, and then I plugged the blocks. 2) With the coolant still in, I used thin vinyl pin-striping masking tape (capable of round turns) in order to outline the channel. 3) Once I achieved the correct shape with the flexible masking tape, I filled in the remainder of the acrylic with tape. 4) I then masked the metal block underneath the acrylic to protect it from any overspray (I guess I should say underspray). 5) I then painted the pieces with the same SEM self-etching primer that I always use, and, once it dried, I pulled the tape off and put one light coat of clear enamel as a protectant. Here are the results: I also painted the thumbnuts of the supremacy: Now a few shots of these blocks filled with coolant in the system: Custom Painted Tubing! : Of all of the mods that I implemented in this build, this is the one that I was most excited about doing, but also the one that I was most frightened of messing up. I have yet to see custom painted rigid tubing, so this is something that I definitely was interested in trying out. One of my major concerns was that the chemicals of the paint might compromise the integrity of the acrylic, leading to a crack due to pressure within the loop. To ensure that my tubing would not crack under pressure, I closed off the loop with a quick disconnect while leak testing, then started the pumps (I know… could’ve damaged the pumps). No issues, so I figured I was good to go and haven’t had any issues thus far. I went with a spiral paint design, which I accomplished using 3M Vinyl 471 automotive detailing masking tape, which is excellent for this sort of application. It differs from normal masking tape in that it is stretchy, allowing for curves. It is also highly tolerant of removal and reapplication, which was essential given the number of times I failed to apply the tape evenly. Anyway, the process was as follows: apply the tape according to the design you want, use adhesion promoter to prime the tubing and then apply Rustoleum Sem-Flat Black Enamel Spray paint as a topcoat. Here are some shots of the tubing at each of these phases: Although I know that the tubing can be clearly seen in previous shots, I cannot resist some close-ups of the painted tubing installed and filled with coolant: Custom Painted Ram Heat-Spreaders: I painted my G-Skill Ripjaws Z heatspreaders gray as well. This was not too difficult, although care should be used when removing them… and it will void the warranty!!! I think that they came out nicely, but given that they are in so many pictures above I won’t post any more shots. Painted EK Badges: The silver EK badges that are included on all of their products are actually removable stickers. I didn’t realize this at first, but it was a wonderful discovery for those of us who do not want any shiny silver in our build. I removed them and painted them gray. Cable Lacing: A big thanks to Alpenwasser for his wonderful tutorial on how to do this. A link to said tutorial is here: http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/990-cable-lacing-tutorial-aka-cable-stitching-cable-sewing/ And here are some shots of the lacing: Sleeved Internal Cables (including USB 3.0): I went ahead and sleeved the internal USB2.0 and HD Audio Cables: I also sleeved the front I/O cables: Sleeving the USB3.0 cable would’ve been impossible were it not for moddiy.com, where I ordered a USB 3.0 extension that was easily sleeved; however, in my infinite ineptitude I forgot to order black paracord, so this sleeving is only red and gray: ROG Window Decal: The last thing I’ll document is the window decal, which I think I purchased from KustomPCs or something like that. It is an etched effect color, and it looks really nice when the system is powered on: PC case Mod Items from Mnpctech I think that is about all I have the energy to write at this point. There is so much more that I could document, and I must have another 200 photos that I could post. In addition to being tired, I fear that this log might not be read by many and that I am writing in vain… I hope not. If you all have any questions about the build or some feature that interests you please don’t hesitate to ask. I hope that this log is read, and I hope even more that the build is liked. Thanks for reading, Carson
  7. This is a slide show How to on Hand Crafted Fabrication. Some amazing things have been crafted using basic tools and techniques long before CNC mills were ever invented. I want to pass on what was taught to me so that it might help other modders that don't have access to a mill or just want to take on the challenge of making things with basic tools. I have great respect for those that have the ability to program a CNC Mill to craft computer parts, some people would have you think there is no skill in that and I totally disagree. Those are just different skills than I have. There is a great satisfaction in hand crafting pieces so enjoy!
  8. Welcome! I am now back with another build to work with. My previous build was a Phantom 410 by NZXT http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/581-phantom-410-mod-project-log/ It was a fun build wich also was very appreciated by alot of you. Wich lead into the oppurtunity of this Phantom 820 mod. At this time i i've been building in NZXT cases because i really dig their futuristic look with lots of internal space to work with. NZXT is also very good with listening to their customers reviews & opinions and i believe that they really try to do their best satisfying all their customers, no matter what sort of components they intend to put in their cases. I would love to give you some rendered pictures of what my goals is with this project but every time i've tried making something in photoshop it ends up looking like a cartoon bisquit. So you're just going to have to check back every now and then to watch the progress here. Anyway i am thinking of giving this case a red interior to match with a grey paint i will be applying to the outside of the case. Why is this project called The Big Beast? If you check back every now and then you will see why. All of the work you'll see here on these following pages will be made at my house without any 2000$ tools. I Believe That Minor Changes can have a BIG impact if done right Hope you have a great time beeing a part of my progress with this project. I have had major issues with my imagehosts. The worklog is under reconstruction Hardware for this build: NZXT Phantom 820 - Black (not for long) (CA-PH820-M1) Intel Core i7 4770k Hashwell (i'll be giving some video tutorials on how to overclock this badboy when this project is nearly finished) (BX80646I74770K) Asus Maximus VI Hero ATX (MAXIMUS VI HERO) Asus Geforce GTX 780 3GB Reference Design (With an EK backplate) (GTX780-3GD5) Asus Geforce GTX 770 DCII TOP x2 (EKWB ) Corsair 16GB (4x4GB) CL9 1866Mhz DOMINATOR PLATINUM (CMD16GX3M4A1866C9) Corsair HX 750W 80+ Gold Modular (With sleeving from Million Dollar PC) (CP-9020031-NA) Corsair Hydro H80i (Custom Loop for GPUs and CPU) (CW-9060008-WW) Samsung SSD EVO Desktop Kit 840 -Series 120GB (MZ-7TE120KW) Seagate Barracuda (ST2000DM001 64MB 2TB) Creative Sound Blaster Z (With some changes to the looks of the card) (SOUND BLASTER Z) Cooling: EK Coolstream RAD XT 360 Top Ek Coolstream RAD XT 280 Front EK CSQ13/19mm, Black Ek Supremacy Acetal + Nickel EK-FC680 GTX GTII - Acetal+Nickelx2 EK RES x3 250 Alphacool D5 PUMP VPP655T12 with EK TOP EK-PSC 90degrees angled fittings Black EK Coolant Blood Red Masterkleer 19/13 Clear High-Flexible Tubing Some of the modding materials for this build: Found on MNPCTech Dremel Rotary Discs Smoked Acrylic Sheet Black, white & Silver Pop Rivets Round Modders Mesh 3M Di-Noc Carbon Fibre U-Channel Molding Silver PC Case Tumbscrew's 6/32 thread 3M 4010 Super Strong Tape All this great stuff can be found at http://mnpctech.com/ Sleeving for this build: SLEEVE SMALL - COLOR-X SLEEVE SMALL - SHADE 19 Cable Management Clips Crimp Contacts MALE for ATX, PCIE All of this from Nils at http://en.mdpc-x.com/ This is another mod by Jompenleet! Enjoy! Lets go! Bigger in person than i thought it would be. They even attached a box to organize all the case screws for the case. I really missed this with the Phantom 410 Lots of HDD brackets... Not really useful now that that price's on SSDs have dropped during the past year Stock RGB LED controller (think its basically the same as the NZXT 5.25 HUE Led Controller. Built-in LED strip mounted at the top of the case This gives u an idea of what the stock lighting effects are Front panel is located on top of the case and hosts a 3,5mm Audio & 3,5mm microphone in. Also includes a 15W per channel Fan Controller that takes a total of 12 Fans (Had some buzzing sound with this) whilst choking my Corsair SP120 High Performance fans down to 30% of their maxspeed. Works fine with some 7v Resistors & 50% fan power.. Instead of 30% on 12v Fans Top: 2x 200mm (One included) or 2x 140mm or 3x 120mm Front: 1x 200mm (Included) Bottom: 2x 140mm or 2x 120mm Rear: 1x 140mm (included) or 1x 120mm height adjustable Side: 1x 200mm (included) Pivot: 1x 140mm or 1x 120mm internal pivot fan As you can see, this case will give me plenty of room to work with. Whatever i intend to do with this case. Comparision Phantom 410 White on the left Phantom 820 Black on the right Phantom 410 Project log (http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/581-phantom-410-mod-project-log/) Now, monkeys... Let the modding begin! First off will be dremeling, painting & sleeving. Check Page 9 for recent pictures..
  9. Table of Contents (Note: I'll be using the original post dates to allow you to get a better impression of the build's progress.) 01. - 2013-APR-30: Why Dremel When You Can Drill? 02. - 2013-MAY-01: Progress On Back Panel - First Fitting 03. - 2013-MAY-06: The PSU Mount 04. - 2013-MAY-20: Modding/Sleeving the PSU & The HDD Tower 05. - 2013-MAY-21: PSU Sleeving - Continued 06. - 2013-MAY-22: Making a Custom Fan Controller 07. - 2013-MAY-29: Fan Controller & PSU Finished 08. - 2013-MAY-29: Back Panel - Progress 09. - 2013-MAY-30: Reservoir Modding 10. - 2013-JUN-23: Complete (For Now) 11. - 2013-OCT-20: Small Addendum On the Aquainlet Reservoir Prologue Hello everyone! suggested I join this place and post some of my work, and he tends to give some good advice in my experience, so I thought I better follow it (we share a crippling addiction to copper). I have also been following MNPCTech on Youtube for quite a while. And what better way to introduce myself than a build log.... :D This is a build I did in spring 2013. Its eventual purpose will be to serve as our HTPC, a file and media server and it will do some computing for BOINC. Until my other build is up and running, it is currently serving as my personal rig though. Some of you may be familiar with it. The basic concept: Replace the back panel of the R4 with a custom one in order to fit a 360 radiator back there (couldn't do it in the front: HDDs). Also, the PSU has been relocated to the front. The End Result I hope this image size works for you guys, otherwise please let me know and I can switch to a different resolution. (click image for full res) The Name Zwieback Exceeding Useful Specifications. Because: Why not? Zwieback is a hilarious word IMO, and in English doubly so (I don't know why I think that, I just do.) I have been naming my rigs after Greek deities ever since I played the original Deus Ex (still love that game). I also might have a slight weakness for Greek mythology in general... Main PC Guts M/B: MSI Z77A-GD65CPU: Intel i7 2600kRAM: TBDGPU: OnboardSSD: Intel 335 60 GBHDD's: 4 x WD RE4 2 TBHDD's: 3 x WD Red 3 TBPSU: BeQuiet 550 WCase: Fractal Design R4 w/ window side panelW/C PartsCPU Block: EK Supreme HF Acetal/CopperPump: Aquacomputer Aquastream StandardRes: Aquacomputer Aquainlet blue anodizedRad Fans: 3 x SP120 quietRadiator: Alphacool NexXxos UT60 360 mmAlright then, let's get to it! :)