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Found 5 results

  1. The Concept: Addition To The Design: How It Came To be I came up with this idea a while back but didn't know how or when I would implement it. As time passed the idea went into my book along with all my other crazy ideas. After looking at some Be Quiet products on their site I came across the Silent Base 800. The bottom “skids” or feet were perfect! Exactly what I had been looking for. After exploring the idea further and taking some more looks at the Cooler Master MasterCase 5t; I realized it was the perfect candidate. My idea was to make it look like the MasterCase 5t and the Cosmos had a love child and named it, “SyNAPSE.” it couldn't have come together any better. Combining those designs cues with the ones found on the hardware and I have a complete build that is something I would want to own but doesn't exist. It will be an uphill challenge as mounting brackets will have to be custom made and more than likely 3D printed. Less than a week ago I saw the Cosmos 700 prototype and they ventured from the round skids or feet for ones that were more like the ones I will be using. This made the SyNAPSE build even better. Behind SyNAPSE: I've named this build SyNAPSE as it will bridge the gap between organic and mechanical. Sharing a lot of design styling from Gundam and other off shoots. The SyNAPSE case mod will be heavily inspired by Gundam. All of the popular movies and games we see on a daily basis were born from the original, "Mobile Suit Gundam." This dates back to the early 70s and has been a mainstay in Asia ever since. Gundam consists of the futuristic mech robots that have been adapted into a lot of different platforms. It has evolved into an extremely popular line of games, tv shows and movies. I want to go back to the roots of Gundam and adapt it to current day perspectives while focusing on the designs found throughout the hardware being used in the build. The combination will make this build one of the most cohesive builds I've ever done. Every detail from the hardware will be carried over into the rest of the build. CPU: Intel Kaby Lake i7 7700k Motherboard: Aorus Z270X-Gaming 9 GPUs: SLI Aorus GTX 1070 X 2 SLI Bridge: Aorus RGB Memory: HyperX Savage DDR4 16gb Storage: HyperX Predator M.2 - HyperX Savage SSD PSU: Be Quiet Dark Power Pro 11 (1,000 watt) Cables: Modular custom sleeved CableMod cables (red, black & silver) Fans: Be Quiet Silent Wings 3 (high speed) 3 X 120mm Alphacool Watercooling From ModMyMods: CPU Block: Alphacool Eisblock XPX (clear) w/custom red mount kit Pump: Alphacool VP755 v2 Radiator: Alphacool Eisbrecher Pro XT45 360mm Reservoir: Alphacools New Helix 250mm tube reservoir Tubing: Alphacool 13mm Satin Hardtube Coolant: Mayhems Opaque w/custom die Fittings: Alphacool chrome fittings Flow Meter: Eisflugal Acetal flow meter PWM Cables: Alphacool LEDs: Phoybia white leds Switch: Phoybia Vander switch (white) Top & Bottom Feet: Be Quiet Silent Base 800 Other Cables: CableMod sleeved PSU cable, ethernet cable, SATA cables and others Thumbscrews: CableMod anodized (red) LED Strips: CableMod RGB/W dual wide angle LEDs that work with Gigabytes RGB Fusion controllers.
  2. PC case feet will help improve airflow and ventilation beneath your PC. This guide is by request! Mnpctech Custom PC Case Feet installation with a Mid Tower with power supply sitting on small adhesive pads on floor of chassis. In this guide, I'm installing the computer case feet in the RIOTORO CR480 Mid Tower. I've seen this type of PSU mounting in the ANTEC 300 and Cooler Master HAF 912 Mid tower cases. You can cut two of the included 8/32 machine screws to 1-1/16" (27mm) and insert screw into the two rear factory foot mounting holes. Some case designs won't the 1" diameter washers included with "Diamond Knurl" PC case feet, so you may need washer with 8/32 hole and 1/4" outer diameter as shown in these photos for the RIOTORO CR480 Mid Tower. 4x Billet CNC Machined Aluminum "Diamond Knurl" Case Feet b y Mnpctech. Thick hard rubber foot insert helps prevent vibration and protect your desk or work station. Base Diameter = 1- 3/4", Height = 1" Set Includes: 4, billet machined aluminum covers, 4, thick rubber feet, 4, 8/32 machine screw nuts & bolts. Tools & Supplies *Ruler for measuring two screws to be shortened to 1-1/16" (27mm) *Hacksaw with bi-metal cutting blade to shorten *Hand file for cleaning end of shortened screws *Phillips screw driver for tightening case feet screws. *(Optional) 2x 8/32 washers with 1/4" diameter as shown in these photos Shortened 8/32 screws shown with 8/32 hole, 1/4" outter diameter washers Insert the included 8/32 nut into two of feet that will mount under the PSU. Tighten the nuts by turning the case feet. washer with 8/32 hole and 1/4" outer diameter
  3. Our Weekly Hangout with Mod Zoo Munky Staffers, Droug, Bill & Mosquito. We talk about PC hardware and other fun stuff. Don't miss our next hangout by subscribing to our YouTube Channel
  4. The Mod Zoo Staffers invite Craig Tate from Modders-Inc and Bob Stewart from BSMods to share their 1st exposure to customizing. Member Q&A at the end! Project Spotlight: Project DOOM by Zenator Subforum for these weekly hangouts to ask questions Be sure to subscribe to TheModZoo for more!
  5. •••I am updating and adding pics as I go••• I recently received a Sharkoon 120mm Shark Blade fan as well a as an MNPCtech Overkill Ring. Soon after it arrived I noticed that it had built in mounts for LEDs. My inner modder instantly said, "I have to do it." Adding LEDs to fans isn't terribly difficult but, it does require the use of a soldering iron. PARTS NEEDED: • 4 X 5mm LEDs - (In a color of your choice) • 2 X resistors - (These will effect how bright the LEDs shine as well as protect them from over current) • Some wire - (Typically it will need to carry around 80ma max) • Wire wrap or paracord - (Optional) TOOLS NEEDED: • Soldering iron • Solder • Heat-shrink • Helping hands clamp - (Not required but, they help with soldering) • Lighter or heat gun OPTIONAL WIRING METHODS: There are a few different options that can be explored. The LEDs can be wired in a series or parallel. I chose to wire mine in a series for a few reasons. The main reason is that I wanted more of a glow VS a super bright display. Another reason that I went with wiring them in a series is the ability to keep the wiring very clean.
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