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kaisounovsky

AIO Coolermaster 280L MOD - another episode of my Antec 1200 Dragon Edition

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Hi Guys

 

This is another & hopefully the last stage of my previous mod : Antec Dragon Edition,  here :

 

http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php/topic/2443-antec-1200-dragon-edition-mod/page-3

 

30138589737_faf211591f_b.jpg

 

As you can see , I've installed the AIO cooler at the top & out of the case on a home made platform,  & last month I  was planning to add a reservoir & change the ugly factory tubes, 

as many users reported having some issues with their AIO coolers, as rust in the waterblock,  or air bubbles , & the most dangerous, leaks ..... 
so ... I think a reservoir can help to maintain much higher volume of coolant & makes heat exchange better, it helps also to eliminate air bubbles, & with transparent tubes I can notice from the variation of coolant's color if my waterblock is getting some rust or damp.

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And the tubes on those CM units are horrible.  Ugly and stiff.  If you put a res in, you really don't need transparent tubing since you can see the fluid in the res.  You could go with red tubing that matches the rest of your system.  If I remember right, 3/8" ID tubing is what you need on the Nepton.

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Here is how the project started :

 

Material Used :

 

- Coolermaster 280L

- EK Bay Reservoir acetal CSQ

- G12 Car Engine Coolant containing anti rust & anti freeze chemical called Ethylene Glycol.

- EK Blue Coolant

- Distilled Water

- 10mm ID /13mm OD transparent Tubes.

- clamps for water hose ( 8-12mm)

- 2 x  G1/4 to 10mm tube barbs

- Teflon tape

- 5.25 Bay from Scrap PC Case

- Alucobond Sandwich Panel

- scrap 110° Angle Aluminum holder 

- Cellulose Primer Paint & polish

- hex Pins / washers.

WORKLOG :

 

 

 

disassembly :

 

As a first step I had to tear down the cooler & test the installation before any work on my PC , I had to be sure the pump has enough power to move a higher volume of water than what it was designed by the manufacturer.

 

here are the specs : http://www.coolermaster.com/cooling/cpu-liquid-cooler/nepton-280l/

 

in fact 2.9 watts seems very weak comparing to the popular  D5 pump ( 23W ) 

 

 I started to look for a coolermaster 280L pump  teardown & I've found this :

http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/coolermaster-nepton-280l-pump-teardown.211322/

 

very interresting & helpful , 

 

It took me some time to figure out  which are the input & output hoses in the pump block, I made this picture if some of you are interested 

44968538272_02b0e1c9b5_z.jpg

then I started my own teardown  :

 

Factory Hoses are ugly but very thick & seems durable, almost impossible to  remove without cracking  I had to use a cutter : 

30080432307_cc07fb52f9_b.jpg

30080432077_2c8aa01c0c_b.jpg

 

 Very small volume of coolant I guess its about to fill an average glass of water :
 

30080431647_e1830ab677_b.jpg

 

Testing the new tubes on radiator's Barbs,  , 10mm that's exactly what Coolermaster mentioned in the tech specs :

 45016728501_6a554fe092_z.jpg 
44297448874_ba26cc95dc_z.jpg

 

 

 

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And the tubes on those CM units are horrible.  Ugly and stiff.  If you put a res in, you really don't need transparent tubing since you can see the fluid in the res.  You could go with red tubing that matches the rest of your system.  If I remember right, 3/8" ID tubing is what you need on the Nepton.

 

Yess Factory tubes are very thick & hard to handle, ugly, but very tough, anyway, we both dislike them, many thanks for the advice about red tubes, but,  in reality the project is done with transparent tubes, 

about Coolermaster Nepton line  tubing, they use 3/8 ID (10mm) with 140XL  & 280L  models   and 5/16 ID (8mm) for the others.

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This is a short loop for test, I used only distilled water to clean up  the inside of the components, specifically the reservoir since I bought it as a second hand from a friend.
45016726411_ded37e9fbc_z.jpg
 

 

Waterflow wasn't really bad, the white small fan  inside the reservoir wasn't moving but the flowmeter at the top of it gets to almost the middle of the way.

45016727641_1fce111fc3_b.jpg

 

Then I've noticed that the water was getting dirty after 20 minutes so i decided to drain & dismantle the components to check the inside for cleaning by hand :

44968566642_4c43a2b396_b.jpg

Surprise : the reservoir was really dirty, some blue residue from  EK dye-stuff, my friend used before :

45016725231_f2df27598c_b.jpg

45016723601_34c354c6fd_b.jpg

As the EKBay reservoir is very cloudy & i wanted it to be like glass for better view of the fluid status, so  I started to polish the reservoir's plexi from the outside & the inside using abrasive & dremel polishing paste & accessories,  I didn't obtain a very good result , but it is less cloudy now

 

30080429627_a7659e55f5_b.jpg

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then I moved to the waterpump :

I had to take a look inside & check the fins, after I've noticed the residue in the reservoir I was worried that the dirty stuff moves to the copper bloc & clogs the microfins.

Coolermaster designers had the bad Idea to seal that thing with special screws , a triangle key is needed to untight them, the solution is simple, take a small screw driver, hold it to a vice, & use a grinder to carve your own triangle screwdriver :

44968538712_7fbc69e888_b.jpg

44968552242_0d6355692b_b.jpg

I don't need to go further & dismantle more things , too risky, I don't want to damage the circuitry, neither the motor coil

44968553292_90f43e41dd_b.jpg

 

not too bad, however , I've found a small black plastic residue  on the microfins  may be coming from the factory tubing, & found also some tooo tiny  layer of dye on some of the fins.
I used my air compressor to push the dirty things out of the bloc.
 

44968552822_db3b75f46a_b.jpg

then I polished the Block :

44105688475_b40bb43401_b.jpg
44105697595_47401f52b6_b.jpg
43205431160_c348730b8d_b.jpg
not a mirror finish but much smoother than out of factory
44297415874_1fbb039467_b.jpg
 

then cleaned up with car radiator cleaner & deionized water, & reassembled :
43205430170_6c7493093b_b.jpg

 

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The platforms, holder & Attachment : 

 

Here is the concept, all that stuff will sit on the top of the case as usual, material is alucobond panels & aluminium holder I found in scrap, I will keep  the old radiator platform  & attach it at almost 110° to the new big platform : 
 

 

 

44968563472_03f7dc978a_b.jpg

45016720251_16cb9c786d_b.jpg

Holder threads & attachment :

 

44297440274_a6460e815d_z.jpg

44968561972_3f7242c99c_b.jpg

30080427397_2790a2c0ce_b.jpg

 

testing attachment assembly :

44105689255_52503cebb8_b.jpg

 

 

then I cut the sides of a scrap 5.25 bay & adapted them to the reservoir :

44968563992_e4c563c1f8_z.jpg

45016720251_16cb9c786d_z.jpg

here are the main parts after cutout,  paint stripping & abrasion :

30080426977_5021d61b1a_b.jpg

 

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Paintjob :

 

tried a new brand of primer, wasn't successful , the paint cracked the next day, :o  I guess the paint wasn't good at all or was old ,

 Advice : never use a paint if you don't find a manufacturing date on the can, it has to be < 1 year old, to be sure you'r good to go, that's the lifetime of low cost paints : like Glycerophtalic , acrilics & cellulose (nitro),
I don't know what is the expected  lifetime for  professionnal paints like polyurethane & epoxy, 

44968559622_d424592c1a_b.jpg

 

so I bought the same brand I used in the first mod.....daaamn ,  this is a difference, it sticks good, & feel durable & hard to pull off , lesson 2 , never change a winning team  😄

 

30080425317_d08dd0fc2d_b.jpg

 

Top Coat: 

 

Glycerophtalic red paint for the Radiator

Advice :  do not put thick layers of paint on the fins , you will loose thermal conductivity & your radiator will perform worse, If you are not sure, just cover the fins with tape , like most of modders do.

45016714751_4c2a490a95_b.jpg

 

 

Black Matte & Varnish cellulose (nitro)  for the platforms :

45016711771_8dc010b146_b.jpg

 

the screws on tube collars were yellowish steel  :wacko:  burk, turn them red :

30080425907_f90f10aa1c_b.jpg

 

all other pins & washers too :

45016713751_6b25789955_z.jpg

 

Reservoir's plugs & the aluminium holder :

43205448240_8026e48710_z.jpg

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Coolant , Final assembly & leak test : 

 

The good friend who sold me the reservoir gave me a 0,5 liters of EK Blue coolant, but it doesn't match to my mod theme , furthermore, its not enough to fill all the components,  so I had to look for an alternative solution, I found this car engine coolant which seems fair enough in term of quality  it complies with G12+  standard for Volkswagen & Audi, & good to go for 4 years without drain according to automotive forums..... I have no other options, can't find coolants for pc watercooling  in my country.

 

 I dislike the pinky color, so I mixed it with some drops of the Blue EK to make it turn a bit purple, it goes much better with my red & black theme.

 

45016706791_7f0498403a_z.jpg

 

Here is the leak test, honestly I didn't let it turn for 24 hours as advisable, only about 2 hours, I was so excited to boot & test the cooling performance; I checked multiple times for leaks , & secured the barbs & tubes with the clamps.

44297426404_e6d8a53f11_b.jpg


 

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A bit disappointed , weak Water Flow : 

 

EK designers are very smart to include two flow meters in this reservoir :
water gets in from the intake at bottom left corner, than cross a small fan that starts to turn only with an important flow, & then to  a sort of small waterfall in the top of the reservoir , more the water gets from the top left corner to the right corner through that thin path,  better is the flow.

 

here is what must happen with a good powerful  pump , water makes the fan rotating , get on top of it then  fall through the path along  the full width of the reservoir :

 

 

here is what it is like with my first test outside of the pc case with very short tubes & small height difference between watercooling components , coolant gets almost to half of the path :
 

45016727641_1fce111fc3_b.jpg

& here is the test with my system fully installed, many constraints & obstructions with longer tubes, more height difference between pump & reservoir  & radiator, less than quarter of the path :

44105701435_5ef4a8fb34_b.jpg

 

Anyway, I wasn't expecting to obtain a D5 outflow from a weak 3 watts AIO pump   :huh: ... impossible.,   if the cooling performance is Ok, that's good enough.

 

 

after boot & test, the result wasn't bad at all :

 

CPU : I7 4790k

Freq : stock + enhanced turbo activated ( 4400 MHZ)  not overclocked actually

cpu core voltage : 1.18

temps :  Idle : ( 24 C° to 27 °)

Stress test Using OCCT ( linpack test with AVX activated )  : (61° to  65° ) 

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nice work! I don't usually like external watercooling installations, but this one works great! I know it wasn't with out its speed bumps, but that AIO mod was fun to follow :)

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Please post images no larger than 1024 pixels wide, so people don't have to wait for your oversize images to load. I had to close out the page, due to long wait.

Ah !! Sorry for that  Bill , I'll try to resize all my pics in hostingpics website ASAP ,  I hope  I'll find an easy trick for that, otherwise that will take some time to do it.

 

thanks

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nice work! I don't usually like external watercooling installations, but this one works great! I know it wasn't with out its speed bumps, but that AIO mod was fun to follow :)

 

thanks Mosquito , I try to do my best , with the tools & equipmet I have, unfortunately I haven't a decent D5 pump & waterblock actually, anyway, the cooling performance is not bad at all...

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Thank you, I use Photoshop to edit the size of my photos, you can download trial here, http://www.adobe.com/downloads.html

 

I'm at my shop on faster T1 internet connection, but theyre still loading very slowly.. 

Thanks,  

in fact,  the problem is not about the software used to resize the pics , I use  "Photofilter"  & it's much easier than photoshop for light modifications, I don't really need advanced editing options.

The problem is about the links to the forum,   I've uploaded the pics to http://www.hostingpics.net/ which generates the link for sharing in forums.

so I have to remove all the old uploads one by one & reupload the new photos to my albums , & then update my quotes in the forum  with the new links.

regards

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Do they have a repair image option?  Imageshack will let you upload a new image to an existing link so you can just replace the target image instead of going around and changing all the links.

 

No they do not, I had to reupload all the album & update the links here, 

 

please check & let let me know if you get improvement in loading time.

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Thank you, I use Photoshop to edit the size of my photos, you can download trial here, http://www.adobe.com/downloads.html

 

I'm at my shop on faster T1 internet connection, but theyre still loading very slowly.. 

 

OK Bill

its done, 

please check if you get improvement in loading times, pls  ignore just the two first pics which are from an old album containing about 270 pics, so I kept them at high resolution, 

all the others are 1080p wide

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