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Porknz

Don't think I can use a radiator in my case...

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So I've tried multiple ways to install the front radiator, and run into a roadblock each way.  Wondering if anyone sees a way around them.  The site won't let me attach any more photos (maybe my other photos reach some limit?) but I'll try to explain.  Just looking for ideas in case I'm missing something.

So attempt #1 radiator is attached to the front removable grill with the fans attached behind those.  Problem here is that with the radiator attached to the front grill, there is no longer a way to attach the fan filters as the holes are covered, meaning dust goes straight into my radiator, and looking at the dust that was in there during tear down, that's a no go option.

Attempt #2 fans are attached to the removable grill first with the radiator attached behind it, but then it is too thick to be able to attach the removable grill back onto the case again.

No way to access the radiator from the outside to attach it internally.

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I'd ditch the fan filter if it was me.  It'll just mean cleaning it a bit more often, which we should all do anyways.

As far as photos, it's easier to use a hosting site.  I'm not even sure what works well right now, but maybe imgur?  I used to use imageshack but I think they put the hammer down on serving to forums.  But basically get your pic on a hosting site and then just post the pics address(right click and copy image address) in the Zoo's editor.

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Thanks for sticking with me.  The support is appreciated.  Murphy's Law is all over.  I was able to get the radiator ALMOST in.  I have it in, but now I am running into a teeny tiny rivet on the top that holds the 5.25 in bays above it and I can't get the removable fan grill QUITE  high enough to line up the screw that holds it in.  I'm a paper's width away from having the radiator set.  EKWB got back to me about the capacitors, and asked for a pic, so I sent them the one with the capacitors reflecting in the copper block.  I'll look around for a hosting site and see what I can find.  Thanks again.

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This is probably a dumb question as far as static goes, but do I have to empty out the case again to use a drill to knock out two rivets?  Will that put a change into the components?  I don't know if I dare keep taking the the waterblock off?  I've already moved that thermal paste around about fifteen times trying to figure out why it rests against the capacitors already.

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As far as static, no, it shouldn't build a charge.  BUT I'm federal mandated to say that you should pull out your components before drilling anything out in your case to avoid possibly hitting a component with a bit OR getting metal shavings into tiny nooks and crannies so they create a nice fireworks show in your case. :)

But along the 'I have done this before but your should never try this at home and I bear no responsibility' lines, I have used some double sided tape or tape laid sticky side up around what I was drilling to catch shavings and then covered everything with towels to act as a barrier to flying shavings and drilled stuff out.  I just tried to do it in a way that most of the shavings would fall away from anything important.  I also pulled out anything close that was important, cause why tempt fate?  Then after I was done, hit it with some air to be sure nothing got where it shouldn't be.

If you've moved the block around that much, I'd go ahead and pull it, clean the paste and reapply if you've got some extra.  Do it while it's easy to do.  You don't want to get all buttoned up and start pushing the system only to find out you got a little air pocket or something in there killing your temps.  Taking apart a completed build is never fun.  Except for when you get new parts, then it's fun.

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nice work getting the radiator in there.  If it was easy, everyone would be doing it!

Actually, compared to how things USED to be, drilling out a couple rivets to fit a radiator is pretty minor lol

 

+1 on recommending that all parts are removed before drilling on the case.  But that doesn't mean you HAVE to... But I would.

Probably lol

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Alright.  Parts back out.  Any thoughts on the copper water block resting against three of the capacitors still?  I tried to see if there was any give to the water block, but with the pins stationary, and the water block in the X shape as far as the attachment goes, I don't see any way to lift it or slide it that will get it off of the capacitors.  

Back to assembly again and hopefully the radiator in right and then on to the pump/reservoir.

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Nah, bout the only give you're going to get on that block will be in the backplate/mounting hardware, and that's just cause the mounting holes are made for Intel's stock cooler tabs, way larger than most screws.  You might be able to loosen it up and nudge it over a couple of mm.

Seeing as how this has been a pain, I might suggest figuring the pump/res out before putting everything back in the case. ;) 

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Waiting to hear something back from my EKWB ticket.  With the pins the water block sits on, I just don't see any wiggle room.  Another forum told me if I:m having that issue I did something wrong installing it.

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I'm talking about moving the pins slightly.  Loosen them from the backplate a few turns and then try to shift them(and the backplate) towards the memory slots.  

Seeing as how everything for 115X mounting is square, the block is square, the mounting holes are already there, and it's almost impossible to get anything flipped around or use a wrong hole, I'm not really sure where you could have gone wrong.  I'd guess that maybe that board is a bit out of wack/the holes are a bit off seeing how it's so close to clearing. 

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EKWB wrote back and said they looked at the picture and the capacitors aren't touching the copper block and that even if they were it wouldn't matter at all...

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On my EK block I had to sand two of the edges of the mounting plate to get it to fit. If I remember right they bumped up against my ram but it could have been the caps. I just remembered how dumb it was that I had to modify a brand new block.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

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Doesn't seem right that it's on the compatible list and touches the capacitors, but both MSI and EKWB have said it doesn't matter if it touches the caps...so...I guess it's all good.

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Yeah, realistically it's not a moving part, so it won't be rattling around or anything, so it's not going to rub or anything.  I'd be annoyed, but wouldn't worry about it either

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