Jump to content
Porknz

Trick for getting fittings apart?

Recommended Posts

Dumb first timer question.  I just went to take the fittings out of each components and one of them came off in one piece instead of two.   I have cuts all over my thumbs and fingers from trying to get them apart.  It's like grabbing a knife on the sharp side and pushing my finger across it. :)  Any tricks to get them apart?  The rest are all fine.  I must have maybe twisted this one on too hard?

Thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I obviously don't want to use a pliers or anything that will leave marks on it that could end up leading to worse performance when I try to lock the tubing down.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Possible dumber question.  There happened to big a huge *** allen wrench that I haven't otherwise found a use for yet, and it happened to fit right inside the inner piece and twisted the outer piece off with almost no force and no damage.  Is that actually what the big allen wrench is for of did I just get lucky???

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Are you talking about the Ocool fittings from Alphacool. If so they are made for an Allen wrench to fit in for easy removal etc. Also for future reference you don't need to start a new post for each question you have. You can ask them all in one post so it doesn't clutter it all up and it's easier for people to answer all your questions

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That would have been a good thing for me to see in the directions somewhere...

I'd better take off the two tubes that I have and make sure to tighten the inner piece with the allen wrench and then put them back on.  So much learning to do with the first water loop. :)

I'll stop making new threads too.  I figured asking new questions on the same thread would back up one thread so that other people couldn't find answers in them by title.

Sorry.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wondering if the teeny amount (10 or 20 degrees?) I was able to turn the inner piece using the allen wrench now that I've already tightened them down by hand is worth pulling them off for and redoing them?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If it's worth doing, it's worth doing well.  Pulled the ram so I had more room.  Pulled off the four ends I'd secured, allen wrenched them all a little tighter.  Put the four ends back on (getting a better feel the for tubing and kind of putting it on and off at a bit of an angle, which is much better than trying to put on or off straight on).  One last line to run.  Mix up the coolant in the distilled water container.  Get a funnel to poor it into the reservoir/pump maybe?

Is the 24 hour leak test necessary to run that long?  I'm wondering because I'd like to start it tonight yet if I can, but by this time tomorrow, I'll be celebrating a new years party at a friend's house.  What about a 12 hour leak test?

Thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If anyone has any suggestions, I'm hoping to start leak testing tonight still.  This, obviously, is the scariest part...

I have read and reread directions on this and I'm not positive I understand the cable directions still to use the psu without power anything else (and I think not using the motherboard either right???) so if you want to put it into first timer words for me instead of EKWB instruction manual words for me, I'm happy to read them. :)

Thanks guys.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Funnels are always good.  I actually use a a funnel with some tubing so I can get into tight places.  Something I found easier too is to use a cup or container(I use quart paint mixing cups) as a pouring container.  Way easier to control how much you're pouring than a gallon jug.

Everyone has their own thing on leak tests.  Run it for as long as it takes to make you feel comfortable.  I usually run mine for a couple of hours.  I figure if a leak is going to show, it should show up in that time.  But I'm comfortable with a bit of risk and being in plumbing, I'm sort of desensitized to worrying about leaks.  Frying some components is small fry to flooding a house.  I'd say if you like living on the edge a few hours is fine, but 6 hours is good, 12 hours is better, and 24 is best.  

For wiring disconnect all the wires from the PSU either at the component or if it's modular, you can pull it at the PSU.  So your 24 pin, cpu 4 or 8 pin, VGA, SATA, molex, all of it. There are only 2 things you want connected to the PSU, the pump(probably on a 4 pin molex connector) and the little jumper adapter that comes with the kit and plugs into the 24 pin cable.   Basically, that jumper jumps a signal wire that tells your PSU it's ok to run.  Now, kicking the power switch on the PSU will send power to the pump without needing the motherboard to tell the PSU it's ok to turn on.  Clear as mud right.  Big thing to remember is that you only want the jumper that came with the kit and the pump plugged in

It's covered a bit in this video, but instead of the paperclip, you've got the connector that plugs into your 24 pin cable.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

3bLqBmM.jpg

Does the bridge simply plug into the psu itself then to trick it into turning on?

Would I then run the black cable with the ability to connect to the psu and a sata out of the psu?

And then attach that to the adapter that has a sata end and a three pin connector?

Which then connects to the cable powering the pump reservoir?  

And then I can turn on the psu switch until it needs more coolant in the reservoir and I then power off and fill more in and then power back on again?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks like maybe I still plug in the power cable that would run from the psu to the motherboard, but rather than connecting to the motherboard, I use the 24 pin bridging plug on the end, which tricks the psu into thinking it's plugged into the motherboard?

Also, yeah...how I'm going to access the reservoir/pump to fill it.  Going to have to think on that as you can see in the picture with the completed loop.  Hmmm.

May need to remove the 2 gpu's, which is going to be a huge pain in the ass.

Wonder if I could just unscrew the reservoir/pump from the bottom of the case and rotate it around to fill the loop.  Then after the loop is filled, I can just rotate it back around and screw it back into the bottom of the case.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wrenching the fittings down isn't a good idea if you are unfamiliar with the concept of "finger tighten." There have been a lot of damaged blocks that can be traced back to an over-tightened fitting.

Yes. You will need to pull the res-pump out to fill. I'd attach a spare barb fitting and a length of clear hose to the top to fill. You can temporarily cap it with a pen.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, Porknz said:

 

Looks like maybe I still plug in the power cable that would run from the psu to the motherboard, but rather than connecting to the motherboard, I use the 24 pin bridging plug on the end, which tricks the psu into thinking it's plugged into the motherboard?

Also, yeah...how I'm going to access the reservoir/pump to fill it.  Going to have to think on that as you can see in the picture with the completed loop.  Hmmm.

May need to remove the 2 gpu's, which is going to be a huge pain in the ass.

Wonder if I could just unscrew the reservoir/pump from the bottom of the case and rotate it around to fill the loop.  Then after the loop is filled, I can just rotate it back around and screw it back into the bottom of the case.

 

Yup yup!  Personally, I'd pull the GPUs(or at least the bottom one so you can manipulate the pump/res), undo the pump/res, and lay the case on it's side(mb looking up).  That way you could set your pump/res above everything and it would be a cinch to fill. 

 

BTW, damn that's a tight fit!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, Cheapskate said:

Wrenching the fittings down isn't a good idea if you are unfamiliar with the concept of "finger tighten." There have been a lot of damaged blocks that can be traced back to an over-tightened fitting.

I try to finger tighten plus a 1/8th or so.  Force of habit.  I did have a cracked acrylic res top once and was never sure if it was from the tapping or me tightening.  Acrylic is so damned fragile.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

SO much to learn with your first loop!  I just really can't say that enough.  I suppose it was the same with my first build too.

I don't think I overtightened with the wrench.  With the way they are made it's hard to tighten them in by hand with the sharp grooves.  I noticed I was unscrewing the top piece and the bottom piece was coming out as well instead of them separating from each other.  The little extra with the Allen seemed to fix that.  Tightened the outer one by hand as best I could.  Another one of those feel things you pick up I suppose.  Figuring how to get the tube on the barb one side at a time rather than straight on is one of my biggest tips to other first timers so far.  Just an accidental feel for tubing thing.

I'll have to see what kind of flex I have with the tubing when I unscrew the reservoir from the bottom of the case.  Thinking I may be able to rotate it to the left and get it clear.  Also GREAT idea about setting the case on it's side to fill the loop!  (Again if the tubing allows.). Maybe a dumb question, and I know I'll need to run the pump to try to bleed the system a bit no matter what, but it seems like if the reservoir is above everything, I should be able to fill a lot in just with gravity right?

I'll have to see about pulling the gpu's.  I suppose that is much easier when the reservoir is moved too.

Really shallow case.  As with most lian li cases, it's unique.  Taller than normal and shallower than normal.  Won't fit modern gpu's.  Almost like a typical mid tower flipped 90 degrees.  Although, I did have to mod the case just to fit the 360 rad in too, so maybe it isn't even that tall either?  But if it were rotated 90 degrees more like a typical mid tower shape, I'd have the rad at the top instead of the front I suppose.

A bit of a relic.  The backplate on the motherboard actually makes it just that much tighter that I have to remove the panel of switches that holds the PCI cards tight to add and remove the gpu's.  With the first build I put in here, no backplate, no issue.  Graphics cards I have in fit great in the case, even with the radiator now, but they are 9.4 inches.  Even 10.5 inch cards don't fit and many are much bigger now.  I was happy to read tonight that a mini 1080 that appears to run at full 1080 specs is to be announced at CES.  Looks like it's under 8 inches!  That would save me the plans of a huge case mod to move my GPU to get a 1080 series card(hoping for a 1080ti that I can to fit in my case at some point.) To fit in my case vertically.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, Porknz said:

Maybe a dumb question, and I know I'll need to run the pump to try to bleed the system a bit no matter what, but it seems like if the reservoir is above everything, I should be able to fill a lot in just with gravity right?

Not a dumb question at all!  Theoretically, your right, but what's more likely to happen is that you'll get fluid running down both the inlet and outlet of the pump/res and you'll wind up with a big air pocket in the middle.  Also, you'll wind up with nooks and crannies that want to hold pockets of air.  Just a heads up, with a pump/res combo like that, when you're bleeding it, you're pump will probably wind up sucking some air creating a ton of bubbles and the pump will keep circulating those little bubbles.  It happens and they will work themselves out over time.  You can tame those a bit faster by turning if off now and then while you're leak testing to let the bubbles work their way out of the fluid in the res.  Another thing, when you're leak testing(and with your fill port capped!), roll your case around some.  That will help get stubborn little air pockets out of your block and radiator.  It shouldn't be as bad with the case laying on it's side, but there's always a stubborn spot.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Suddenly picturing a blender running with the cover off.  Thanks for that tip.  Obviously won't bleed air well with the top open I suppose. :)

You still suggest gravity filling?  And then turn it on and run it and stop and open reservoir and refill as needed to leak test?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Okay!  First rush of water ran out of the pump when I powered up the psu.  Thought I had an off switch on the psu, but it turns out it is some sort of noise setting instead.  Looks like I am going to have to remove the power cord from the back of the psu to stop and start.  

Fill the reservoir back up most of the way and power up again until I can leave it running without needing to refill the reservoir and then just let it run?

I also misread the previous post originally.  Do I want to be doing this filling and eventual long term testing with the cap of my reservoir off?

Okay to run five or six hours tonight and then turn off before bed and then run for another long chunk of time tomorrow while I'm home and awake?

What a rush to hear that water rush out of the reservoir for the first time...and mot leak anywhere.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Love that build by the way Mr. Owens.  Colors are great, but that stainless tubing...  I was just sharing a link to it with someone today who was already telling me I should save some more money and remove the ekwb tubing in my not quite yet set up first ever loop.  Maybe in the future of my new black and silver build some day. :) 

Are those squeeze bottles something you sell?

Thanks for the continued support guys.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Had to top it off once more and it's running smoothly and quietly as possible.  As far as leaks, am I looking for teeny little drip leaks (hence the long leak test time?) or am I in pretty good shape with it running for almost an hour now?  If i'm good for an hour, am I likely good to go overnight now?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You're in pretty good shape when nothing blows apart or runs all over the floor in the first few minutes.  But yeah, you're long term leak test is looking for small drips like something that would make it through a cracked block or a leaky O-ring.  if you've made it for a couple of hours with nothing showing, I'd say you're probably good to go overnight, just make sure you leave your paper towels in there.  Myself, I'll only leave it running unattended for a couple of hours at a time for the first few days.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


    Chatbox
    There's a thing here. Somehow it moved to the top of the page, but I didn't do it. No, really! But still, Cheaps is likely to blame...
    You don't have permission to chat.
×
×
  • Create New...