Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  


Recommended Posts

Hello all you beautiful modders!

I was working on my top panel to my XPS mod and thought I would make a little guide/tutorial to show my process for weathering. There are a lot of painting questions and I haven't really seen this get hit on a lot. so lets jump into it! at the end I will have a video you can watch as well (if you learn better that way).


Now remember that this is all subjective. This is just how and why I do it.



I cut the decal out from a sheet of vinyl that I printed the pattern out on. Then applied it to the acrylic (before painting). I use this as a stencil.


Then I painted the underside of the acrylic Matte Black (matte and flat are the same thing) so The stencil, once painted over, will show through from underneath. Once that is done I flipped the acrylic over and apply a coat of primer (self etching primer).


Once Dry, I shake the spray can of flat white 2 times (very softly) just to mix the chemicals up a little, and then I spray a coat of it on (LIGHTLY). I do it this way to make the paint come out chunky and random. instead of an even coat like you would normally want.

After that DO NOT REMOVE ANY VINYL YOU APPLIED UNTIL YOU ARE DONE! If you don't have vinyl, then this does not apply to you.


STEP 2: The Destruction

Now this is the part that can get "too fun". We are going to cover up all out mistakes, off set cuts, snaps, breaks, scratches. Any mistake you have made! One modders mistake is another weathering treasure!


There are a lot of tools out there and it is not necessary to have amazing tools. But I will be using a Dremel 3000 rotary tool.


Accessories ill be using: 

  1. EZ456-EZ-Lock™-1-1/2"-Cut-off-Wheels
  2. 115-High-Speed-Cutter
  3. 561-MultiPurpose-Cutting-Bit


From this point on we are going to pay attention to the "flow" of the case, Like in a painting you want the viewers eye to travel from the "focal point" (main showcased hardware or part of the case) to every edge of the case in one fluid motion. Leaving the viewer clueless that you are directing them.

I like to start in the middle of the fan grill and work my way out. Just remember which direction YOU want the audience to look. 


So I start by using the  561-MultiPurpose-Cutting-Bit  and put the dremel at a medium setting. The first cuts you need to make are really to mark and lay out your weathering plan. 


I then go in with the 115-High-Speed-Cutter at a higher speed and start shaping those first cuts I made. This is going to be where you fix those mistakes you made. I snapped the acrylic 2 times while cutting the holes, so this is going to be my main focus. 



If you are making scratch marks keep in mind the direction of wind, the direction the fans spin and environment you are trying to achieve. For me my fans are spinning clockwise, I want the wind to come from the front and travel to the rear (notionally) and this takes place on Hoth (ice planet).

if you keep that in mind it will help you with where and how you make your cuts as well as how and what you are going to use to paint the details with. 


After I am done getting all my edges warn down and fixing a lot of my mistakes, I then want to add some gouges where a piece of metal or something of that sort has hit the case. I use the EZ456-EZ-Lock™-1-1/2"-Cut-off-Wheels   for this which makes it faster and easier to get a nice deep cut.


Step 3:Detail Painting

This is where you shine! This is the one step where all your hard work up until this point comes together to create the "look and feel". 


I am using some vinyl stencils I have made (you do not have to use vinyl, you can use anything really. I just had vinyl at my workshop). I am using a 2 part stencil. The circle and the "V" so I can over lap colors and have a perfect shape each time.



For this I am using 2 different types of paint. Watercolor and Acrylic.


Here is my reference photo of what I am trying to achieve only warn down:

Image result for snowspeeder pilot helmet


The colors I am using are Yellow Ochre, Venetian Red, and Carbon Black. I chose these because I wanted the yellow to me more mute, and not as bright because this has been through a lot of combat and a lot of extreme weather. The same goes for Venetian Red. They both have more brown in them and create a deeper more distressed tone.

The Carbon Black is my choice because it is more on the gunmetal side of the Black spectrum. I didn't want to use Mars Black because it was too dark and deep of a shade, to where It wouldn't look right in my eyes. I never use true black or true white unless it is a "Hot spot" or a "deep spot".



Now that the technical explanation is over, we will start painting. 


We apply the decal (you can use a ruler or any type of straight edge) to make a straight line. I am just making a crease to line up on the bottom edge of the panel. Then we DO NOT USE WATER!!!!! and take the red water color paint and brush it on. and keep repeating until you have all the patterns you want on there. Then we do the same with the "V" stencil as well once the paint has dried. (watercolor paint drys quickly when you do not use water). 




After that You will want to wait a bit to let the black acrylic paint dry. 


Lets move back to the fan grill cover

I am using a variety of brushes from thin to thick and bushy. 



The paint I am using is Mithril Silver 61-55, by Citadel Colour. This is great paint to use because the colors are thick, rich and pure. And it drys very well. 

We will start painting all of the in cuts, gouges, and any type of extra cuts we made. Make sure to get all of the exposed Acrylic painted. we do not want any LED's or light to shine through (unless that's what you are going for).


Next we will start drybrishing layering the silver on top of the white to create a sense of metal scratches and paint wear. (Keep in mind your visual directional flow of the case) be random and be precise. Every brush stroke is a decision.


now we are going to give the metallic paint a nice black wash. saturate your brush with water and dip it into your black paint. Here you will stroke all of the deep cuts and the ridged crevasses. this will darken the silver a bit. After that we will go back into dry brushing some black onto the case and use your finger to really rub it into the cuts you have made to bring out the texture. 



Step 4: Sanding

This step is all about making the effect of wear and effects of harsh weather remember your wind, environment and direction of fan spin. 

I will be using 400 grit and 50 grit sand paper. The 400 grit will smooth out the paint and pull a bit off without scratching the bottom layers of paint. The 50 grit will destroy anything it touches (remember that) so we use 50 grit to pull some of the aluminum up to the surface.



Sand in the direction of where the wind is coming from to where it is going (for me it is left to right). do this with 400grit and the 50 grit.

When using the 50 grit make sure you know where you want to pull metal up because there is no turning back once you touch that paper to the paint. Remember, EVERY STROKE IS A DECISION.




After that is all said and done, we are done! and you can go back and touch things up if you wish to or you can leave it as it is. If you want to put a clear coat on it you can, if not, be VERY careful of where you place the piece. (the blue on the cracks and mesh is a reflection)

I hope this helps anyone that has been trying to figure out how to do weathering!



If you would like to see the full work log of my Case Mod, you can find it here: http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/2807-project-47-xps-700/&



Below is a few tips and info for many types of weathering.



Jungle: Damp, humid, Rainy, HOT, muddy, dusty, lots of animals and bugs. 

Desert: Hot during the day, Cold at night, Sand, sand storms, lots of wind, dry.

Arctic/Tundra: Cold, wet, mud, freezing wind, ice, snow.

forest (mountain or sea level): moist, humid, fog, damp, some sunlight, lots of mushrooms and fungi, plants, animals, random directional wind.



  5. KNIFE
  8. FILE



Here is the Video from the text demo:


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks! There are a bunch of different techniques. These are just the ones I was using at the time. I'll probably update it with more paint techniques for rust and things of that sort. I've never used the corrosive paint before, so I don't think I'm going to venture that way any time soon haha.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

  • Create New...