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A few Updates :

I realised the bended plexi PSU Cover wasn’t a good idea, it will be hard to remove it if i need to check any power cable or install a new PSU, the gpu watercooling tubes will be on the way & won’t let me get it out of the case. So I made the top removable :

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I was left with tens of M4 & M5 long screws, so I started cutting them,
a DIY Lathe like installation is very efficient to repair damaged threads after cut, all you need is a drill ,  an angle Grinder & a vice :

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Love those sparks :

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Bold like in the army :lol: :
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Brushed Aluminum :
I’ve seen this tutorial , Followed the same process , & it worked perfectly

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Works even better on thin painted aluminum , I did it with alucobond plate, I just had to scour the factory paint before :

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My best piece so far is this one :

28465372587_4f4715359e_b.jpg


 

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:worried:I got bored of metal working , let’s do some electronics :

Almost Everybody goes RGB nowadays, the Aquacomputer Farbwerk USB version is my choice for led control  :

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It has only 4 RGB output connectors  , but i need much more, I’ll make a DIY RGB Splitter :

all you need is a small ready to solder board   , Tulip Sockets, magnifiying glass, soldering equipment  & a tons of patience.
 for chassis wiring  ( connection between the farbwerk & the splitter )  I’ll use scrap  from an old IDE ribbon cable.

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testing the best position in the case :

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soldering the connection lines at the back :

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Here it is,  it can split up to 5 outputs from each Source, a total of 20 :
41524716930_e5fa6244f8_b.jpg

 

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GPU Waterblock

Before moving back to chassis mod I though it would be better to check how it is going to be with the GPU waterblock & if it fits well :

My dear 3 years old MSI 980ti, still performing well, unfortunately, I didn’t find any full covering waterblock, they are all out of stock, only GPU chipset  covering Block from EK, a bit classic  but still good quality :
 

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it was very easy to mount, thanks EK :

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Testing if the tubes position corresponds well to the holes at the base of the case,  it was perfectly done :

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since there is almost no more airflow now, I am planning to add a fan for the voltage regulators , fashioning a fan bracket  should be a funny task ….. will see that tomorrow.
 

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GPU VREG FAN
here we go guys, this is my plan :

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Scrap Aluminum fan holder  :

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Adding some cutouts just for the look , sorry, this isn’t very accurate, since all of this is handmade using a drill & dremel.... no CNC, it wasn't easy 😎 :

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my brushed aluminum parts are done, installation explained in the photos :

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here it is installed :

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VRAM & Vreg Thermal pads renewed too :
 

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Polishing , The Pro method :

I don’t like the foggy look of EK plexi  waterblocks , polishing will give them a glass like appearance ,
first of all , Gpu Block disassembly :


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I tried to imitate a professionnal setup using a polishing bonnet installed to my drill,
& a car body polishing compound :
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nobody wants some mayonnaise here ???? 😁

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To avoid stupid mistakes,   I took my used EK bay reservoir  front plexi as a test piece,
3 years ago,  this part was polished using Dremel polishing wheels &  dremel factory polishing compound wish is very harsh for plexi, the result was far from perfect 😥 :

 

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with my new DIY polishing Setup, It took me 10 minutes to find the best rotational speed & the perfect technique , the result is really satisfying :

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Now that I am sure it worked fine, I have to  repeat the process with the new pieces : Gpu waterblock + CPU block copper base.


 

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It was a long working night yesterday, the polishing process  is successful 😷 :

Starting with a  Progressive water sanding from 500 to 1500 Grits waterproof sandpaper :
at the picture below,  acrylic part of EK VGA supremacy + copper base of the XPS Raystorm CPU waterblock :

 

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starting with the copper base inside part :

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 mirror finish , reflection of my desk lamp 😎  :

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the finish is good with  Acetal material too :


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EK GPU block after reassembly , I did never expect to get such a good finish 💜:

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Graphic Card new connectivity :

The waterblock comes with 2 x 5mm led placement holes,  I have a kit with white leds, molex feeded :

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I don’t want  to have long cables lying around from the board so I looked for a 2 pin connector to feed them from the GPU PCB,  I scrapped a 20 years old Compaq PC & I’ve found exactly what I need :

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Even the connector of the  MSI Fans :   4 pins molex « cable to board connector »  I have found the same attached to an old  5.25’ DVD player in the same Compaq PC  ,  dazzling fact : scrap is an unlimited resource 😷:

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Here is the final version with the modified connectors to pcb , only RGB strip will be feeded from the Farbwerk controller  

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for a test , I’ve powered  the board   for a  couple of seconds because I have no cooling system yet., fan & waterblock's leds are working fine.

then the RGB strip was tested separately  :

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2 hours ago, Cheapskate said:

That will work. 😄 I switched to CNC because I can't SEE little stuff like this anymore. 

😁😁

CNC is an expensive equipment ..can't afford it for non commercial use.

I polished my little babies yesterday & they turned like silver jewelery.😉

These curved forms remember me a historical thing like the native american scriptures 👹👺

Yes they work fine. & fits well to my bitfenix cable extension kits .

it was a funny experiment.


 

 

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On 8/2/2018 at 9:28 PM, kaisounovsky said:

😁😁

CNC is an expensive equipment ..can't afford it for non commercial use.

😉

 

Sorry for the slight off topic, but this reminded me of a very paradoxal situation; a friend of mine built a CNC plasma table when he started his machine/engineering shop business, and now he says it's far too labour intensive, ie. expensive to use professionally 😁

Anyway, have you looked at the chinese CNC routers? They are not expensive but do require a bit of tinkering though once set up properly they should be very useful for cutting aluminium and acrylic sheets.

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1 hour ago, Karri Koivusalo said:

Sorry for the slight off topic, but this reminded me of a very paradoxal situation; a friend of mine built a CNC plasma table when he started his machine/engineering shop business, and now he says it's far too labour intensive, ie. expensive to use professionally 😁

Anyway, have you looked at the chinese CNC routers? They are not expensive but do require a bit of tinkering though once set up properly they should be very useful for cutting aluminium and acrylic 

@Karri Koivusalo

Hi

I think your friend is talking about the additional cost & labour of layout design i mean the software side..did he hire somebody to do that ..or is he doing it himself ? .....I have no idea how plasma works..if the power source required is kind of flammable gas  .Then for sure that will be a significant  cost for everyday run.

Actually I see no need for a personal CNC .  I am not a professionnal modder... I do some pc mods every 2- 3 years as a personal setup.. I improved my skills with dremel & power tools through time  i agree that hand work is not perfect , tiring & more time consuming comparing to automated process ....however I admit that a small CNC setup can be very useful in general....i'll be looking at the chinese products you just told me about.

Thanks 😊

 

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The CNC plasma table is basically a huge 2d plotter with a plasma torch. It simply heats compressed air to about 30000°C which cuts through pretty much anything. The problem is setting up the sheet stock, uploading the files, picking up and cleaning the parts after cutting and painting them takes a lot of time, which costs a lot in wages and could be used more efficiently. The worst case was when he needed just a few parts; had an employee done them in-house, they would've cost hundreds of euros. When ordered from a laser cutting company, they were about €3 each, painted. He actually had the most profits off it using it as indeed a plotter with a permanent marker for a client needing enormous cardboard templates.

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What’s up Guys !  It’s been a long time since my last post,  
I got some updates here 😁

 

All my rad Threads taped to M4 ( this is a dead rad for test )  :

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Added Some Plexi Covers to the radiator stand   :
 

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Watercooling compartment Side Panel, this is my custom mesh for Rads Airflow  :
Stripping the paint :

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Galvanized steel mesh secured with rivets & washers :

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Brushed Aluminum style,
I  can’t wait to get the system working just to  see how it will reflect lights from inside of the case:

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some rubbers U channel to the cutouts at the base of the corsair :

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These pvc stands will be Carbon vinyl wrapped, I had to black paint  the parts that are hard to wrap ( the corners ,  the rounded cutouts , & near the holes)

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vinyl wrap done:

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Some rubber washers below the water pumps are good as shock absorbers & antivibration :


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Then the base was stripped &  turned to brushed Aluminum look :

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My EK 120mm Rad is dead , cleaning it with strong acid was a bad Idea, not a big deal, I have ordered this beautiful 240mm instead , I hope I will get it  in October :
https://www.aquatuning.us/water-cooling/radiators/radiators-active/22779/alphacool-nexxxos-st30-full-copper-240mm-radiator-silver-nickel

To save time I had to modify the stand cutout for the new rad before delivery time , for this purpose I’ve downloaded the schematics, & made an autocad layout :

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After Cut ( don’t mind the green color, this plate will be vinyl wraped)  :

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Back to the corsair case :


After thinking  a long time about it, I can confirm that this PSU cover  is the ugliest part in the whole project :wacko::blush::
 

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Inaccurate cuts, very hard installation system , bad threads,  I’m not even sure if i have to paint it or wrap it …
I screwed it at all levels...:blush:

so I did rebuild it this way :

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Yes , again, Brushed Aluminum …I think  I’m falling in love with this design   :wub::wub:

 

Easy removal system  😎 :

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