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Assembly :
The last two nights were exhausting,
I started with the watercooling pedestal main accessories   :

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Tube holders to GPU :
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Then moved to the 750D to check if everything fits ok :
 

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Little issue with HDD cage, the brackets were too long & didn’t allow me to put the cover on them, I had to cut the exceeding plastic parts :

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Now it’s ok :

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Farbwerk & DIY RGB Splitter :
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fast RGB Test :
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then the two cases attached together :
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Continuing to check watercooling components installation , I started with the pumps,
one of my pumps has a Bitspower Mod kit : D5/MCP655, good thing is, the kit’s bracket is made of stainless steel, I didn’t have to paint it, just stripped the black paint & cleaned it, it doesn’t rust, contrarily, the second pump has a factory Laing bracket, looked like galvanised steel after stripping the paint & some cutouts , to prevent rust I had to paint this one
here they are :

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Reservoir’s brackets & radiators installed :

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Back Radiator :
I have a  demciflex filter for the back radiator, the filter has a magnetic sticker to put on the case before installation, I don’t know how they didn’t think of cutting screw holes in it, I wish I could throw it away but I can’t install the filter without it, my panel surface is aluminum , not magnetic at all. Had to cut the circles for the screws by myself :

 

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with the reservoirs :

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What’s up Guys , almost a month passed since my last post, I should continue with this project updates :


The Modherboard :

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My first plan was modding the VREG heatsinks & the covers ; removing all the anodizing from the aluminium for a bare metal look then changing the red leds to RGB, after full disassembly I realised that it is not soo easy with these tiny circuits MSI used, a 3 RGB led strip which is the minimum length i can use, will not fit there :

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I abandoned the Mobo modding idea & did some routine maintenance :
Found some stain on some chokes & the steel parts of the cpu socket, I don’t know if it is due to overheating or just stain from cigaret’s smoke, anyway, a q-tip a little wetted with white vinegar instantly removed the stain marks :
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Also replaced the VREG MSI stock thermal pads with higher quality from  Arctic « thickness = 1mm » :
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Southbridge thermal paste also renewed with Arctic MX-2
Then Icleaned & reassembled the board.

CPU Delid – Savage vice Method :

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This process is one of the most risky things I did in my life.

 for more protection I covered the connector’s side with some tape & put a rag between the vice clamps, some people who did this on youtube make it look like it doesn’t need excessive force at all, it wasn’t the case for me, may be my vice was a bit too tiny for this job !!...my cpu refused to delid until 7 or 8 attempts, it was sliding off the vice each time. Finally I figured out that i have to keep pushing the cpu down with a hand while continuing tightening the vice with the other. this kind of tasks make me wish to be born with four hands 😝

I will use liquid metal which needs application on the IHS too, I marked the thermal paste location with a file .. yeah… this is a bit savage :
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I tried to remove the silicone gasket  with a flat plastic applicator then I used my nails , they were far more efficient :
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for electric isolation I covered  the tiny components inside with nail polish , I can’t describe how my mom looked at me  when I asked her for the makeup stuff...  she thought I'll use this on my own body :laugh:  

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then comes the thermal Grizzly Conductonaut & the gasket maker :

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 all attached in a spare dead modherboard until the silicone gasket cures :
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Then , boot test in my Mobo …
Surpriiiise, It doesn’t boot, all I have are loop cycle reboots :blink:
 I was in total panic for about 3 minutes, then, a Clear Cmos saved the game  :rolleyes::

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bad Idle temps because I was using the dumbest cooler in the planet : Intel’s stock ,

Anyway, not important, as long as the delid succeeded & the CPU is still alive :
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Cable management :

This is the time to manage power lines, I started with the big cables & HDD’s :
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My DIY cable combs turned out great :
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Fans & pumps power layout :
At this point I realised that I cannot connect everything to the modherboard for multiple reasons :
- In total I have 14 fans.
- The 3 or 4 pins fan connector power threshold is about 1 amp.
- The 2 pumps comes with a Molex & a sata to be connected directly to the PSU  , I have no issue with the speed control of the XSPC Pump : ( XSPC D5 Vario ) , the tricky part is the second pump «  Swiftech MCP655-B » which is very noisy at full speed According to the seller  & it hasn’t an embedded speed controller potentiometer.
-I want to control the two pumps separately.
- My MSI modherboard is a bit old :   ( Z97 gaming 9 ACK ) all of the connectors are 4 pins , but they do not all support PWM fans,   2 ( CPU fan headers ) are PWM designed but the 3 others ( chassis fan headers )  are not, they act like a regular 3 pin.

 

Easiest solution is to bring back my old DIY controller, for a higher amperage thershold & more manual control possibilities, I don’t care about automatic chassis fan control, only rad’s fans will be connected to the modherboard , here is my layout :
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The DIY controller needed some mods to fit better :

I already wrapped the front with carbon Vinyl :
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I previously Changed the voltage regulators chips from LM317 (1.5 Amp) to LM350 (3 Amps) per line, this saved me time looking for new electronic components, it allows me to control the pumps manually (a D5 pump draws 2.5 Amps)

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Getting to the internal parts, I had to remove two of the 3 pins & replace them with Molex for the pumps ( a molex  ( 4 pin peripheral cable ) connector amperage threshold is about 13 amps according to the manufacturer,  well, it really depends on the wire gauge of the PSU daisy chain cables ( usually 18 awg ) , better to not take this info as it is & consider a 5 Amp per connector a safe & more logic value,


this is a great website for more info on PSU connectors caracteristics :

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#peripheral

 

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I’m glad I kept these unique molex connectors from the Antec tricool fans, they have two sides one male & one female, I just cutted the plastics around the male connectors & soldered them to the pcb to make a female on board connector :
 

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I also desoldered a bunch of male 4 pins molex male connectors from scrap dead HDD’s  & used a thick gauge wires , the end is getting the fan controller feeded through 2 Molex not one, & connected to two separate daisy chain cables, this will keep a balanced stress on the PSU internal power lines :
 

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Voltage test : 11.2 volts MAX ,  a little voltage drop is inevitable with analog voltage controllers, not a big deal.


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I also changed the controller front led strip to RGB :

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I had to disassemble the pumps again, lengthening & sleeving their power & speed signal cables :

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One pump hasn’t a shock absorber, I made one from an old school rubber HDD antivibration cover :
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To reinstall the pumps, it was easier to get the case on its back, a weird positioning, The entire case is sitting on the handles, at first I didn’t build it this way for maintenance purposes, so far so good, it makes things easier this way :


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I also took advantage to lubricate the wheels :

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I think the branch thing is post count based. You should be able to change it in your profile settings if you want to cheat.

Rig is coming together nicely. The black paint on your electronics mod made it look like it was already burned up, though. Thanks for reminding me to get some boards painted.

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2 hours ago, Cheapskate said:

I think the branch thing is post count based. You should be able to change it in your profile settings if you want to cheat.

- Really , man !!! The Modzoo is the  first place where cheating is allowed  , this forum never stops surprising me. :wacko:

Rig is coming together nicely. The black paint on your electronics mod made it look like it was already burned up, though. Thanks for reminding me to get some boards painted.
- Thanks ,  & yess, that's exactly what you get if you don't paint the bare circuit board at first,  it is my mistake, I painted it with the components already soldered, I used masking tape on the capacitors & resistors, & left the white connectors naked to get some black coat, I had to repaint it after the last mod, not a big deal it is not a showcased part anyway, If you are planning to paint some custom circuits, better to start with the board before soldering anything to it, if you are planning to paint PC modherboard , that's another story ;)

 

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Pedestal Front Fan :


My Antec Big boy 200mm fan was fully disassembled, repainted & it’s circuitry modified to remove the built-in speed selector, the 5mm leds were removed too, then the molex was replaced with 3 pins to be connected to the fan controller :
 

Antec old fans are not a high-tech product, but they can last very long if you treat them well, I clean &  

Re-lubricate my fans with heavy duty grease every 2-3 years, this time I used « Belleville -  Perfect » grease for high performance bearings :

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Fans Cables mods :


This case dimensions are out of standards, it is too tall for my 50cm 4pins extenders & splitters to get the fans lines from the base of the pedestal  to the connectors in the modherboard or the fan controller at the top ,  there are no standard extenders matching this length,
To match my layout with minimum exceeding cables laying around,  I had to modify almost everything, some cables were extended, some others cutted down, rewired, resoldered together  & sleeved :

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Auxillary Power/Reset  Vandal-resistant switches :

They were soldered to some scrap front panels cables then sleeved :


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The lines down to the anti-vandal switches  were soldered to the lines coming from the modherboard to the top power/ reset buttons then some other front panels connectors were added down for easy-removal maintenance purpose :

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Cable management attachement spots :

for this purpose I used some stuff that I don’t know the exact name or what it is originally designed for :blush:
 
to attach the cables I used zip-ties or binding wires :

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This is the final result, almost no cables in front of the rads :

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Installing my Repared – modded CPU Waterblock :

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Note : I bought an optional RGB bracket kit for this block :   
http://www.xs-pc.com/waterblocks-cpu/raystorm-rgb-bracket-kit-intel
 

I have to mention that the colors are inaccurate, in fact the red diodes are very strong comparing to the blue & the green, whatever the signal it gets, it brings a different color from the other led strips , I tried with the Farbwerk, with the xspc controller out of the box, & with another  harborfreight RGB controller, that’s always the same, you give it white, it gives you red, you give it purple, it gives you red, you give it yellow, it gives you red too …. Except the basic colors (Red, Green, Blue) which works fine, 70% of the other mixed colors are brought back red, what’s happening XSPC ? :angry:  I guess the rectangular type RGB leds used in this system needs some sort of inline calibration, may be a small resistor on the red line will help to bring it to normal function.:sleep:

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RGB leds Strips management :

The RGB cables were also modified , I’ve made some extenders, some daisy chains & improved water resistance capabilities for some connectors :
 

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The transparent rubber protection on the led strips tend to turn yellowish to brown color in the long term, to avoid that, I removed the protection & used nail polish to isolate the electrically conductive parts.

The built-in glue layer is very weak, I noticed some strips gets loosy a few minutes after installation, to hold them in place  , I added thin bands of adhesive double sided tape at the back.

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Reservoir’s RGB’s , a bit tricky :

Watercool Heatkiller tube 150 is a great looking product, I took them mostly for the borosilicate glass material & its high chemical resistance, almost a complete disassembly is needed to install RGB :

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After taking the reservoir apart, I noticed that my strips are too large (about 12mm) for the holder, impossible to mount them there…:wacko:

I checked the website & it seems that 8mm large Strips can fit there :
http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/78017

I lost hope for a moment,  then I found the solution, I had to remove the rubber protection, isolate the conductive parts with nail polish , then push the strip down into the groove using enough force to bend the sides,  & trying to not damage the solder joints of the diodes.
 

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Then I took the strip out again, soldered the cable, added double sided tape & installed it ,

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Note : The Heatkiller tube comes with multiple versions, some has Anodized Aluminum struts (Black, Red or Blue) & one version with bare Aluminum, different color struts can be ordered separately.
http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30260

http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30241

http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30242

http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30240

  The Good thing is, The anodized Aluminum is non-conductive on the surface, unless you scratch it to bare metal, all we have to worry about is a big coolant leak on the led strips when filling the loop, I have to admit that this accident may happen to a very few extremely clumsy people.

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Radiator’s Flush :

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The Radiators were taken out & cleaned this way :
- first flush : Hot deionized water (60-70°C)  + 40 % Distilled white vinegar , this is a bit a stronger acidic solution comparing to what PC builders usually use,  (10 to 20% Vinegar), all I wanted is a fast flush : ( 15 to 20 minutes with radiator shake dance) :S


Then the solution is poured in a glass jar for examination :


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Then filtered into a coffee filter, you can see the dirty stuff sticking there :


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-Second Flush : Only Hot deionized water ( another 15 to 20 minutes)
-Third Flush : deionized water : (10 minutes)

 

My EK ZMT Tubes were also flushed with hotter deionized water (80-90°c) 

·         - According to the manufacturer : Due to the nature of manufacturing the tubing may contain traces of char.

 https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-tube-zmt-matte-black-16-1-11-1mm-3m-retail


I don’t know exactly what is « char » about & if it may clog the system if not cleaned, but I’ve noticed some tiny dots reflecting light at the inner walls of the tubes, which have disappeared after the hot flush, I forgot to take photos, sorry.

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Building the Loop

- EK ACF fittings are hard to tighten with hands, I forgot to order a 9mm Allen key, I just made one out of a 10mm Allen at my disposal , it is not advisable to overtighten anyway, G1/4 threads on plexi blocks may crack easily :
 

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The Tubes were impossible to mount to the pump’s big barbs , even with water & soap, it wasn’t helpful, most efficient method is to enlarge the ends using long nose pliers :
 

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First boot :

After A few hours with no leaks , I felt it is a safe status to boot, & check the watercooling performance :
Room temp is between 15 & 20 actually , I haven’t a thermometer to measure it.
 Cpu temps at idle are around 22 – 25°C  & GPU is 17° to 22°, 
With stock frequencies & Turbo boost enabled stress test wit OCCT 4.5.1 (64bits & AVX enabled) never surpassed 55° for the CPU & 35 ° for GPU test , soo satisfying , with my later all in one I was around 70°  &  with aircooled GPU it was around 80°

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