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Trimming down a copper waterblock with a CnC Mill

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Need to trim down a copper waterblock so that it works correctly with a direct die frame. It’s a mono block with a kind of stair stepping where the VRM is. Due to the IHS being removed (direct die) the VRM part is too high and so the die doesn’t get even contact because it’s angled. As I don’t have access to a CnC mill and not much material needs removed I was looking at using a handheld electric sander to reduce the amount of copper there is on the stair stepping VRM part.

Any tips suggestions?

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I ve seen a similar intervention ending badly.

A vga block was damaged & leaking after the owner used angle grinder + grinding disk....he wanted it to be a fast work....too much copper was removed until getting a crack to the other side.


I advise you to measure the depth of the microchannels & the total depth of the part you are working on... with a precision tool... a gauge or something.

i guess the difference is a thin copper interface...be careful use only sanding discs..no grinding discs.or whatever harsh method... you have to be very patient.

Then progressive sanding from 500 to 1500 grits ..or to 2000 for better result

Then polish with automotive polishing compound for a mirror finish.




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@kaisounovsky thanks. Yup am thinking of only using sanding. Good to know that fast work can crack blocks (wasn’t aware).

If looking at the rear photos of https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fb-asus-rog-r6e-monoblock-nickel I am reducing the size of the VRM part which is the star stepping thin rectangles (the kit kats furthest away from the RGB cable).

So this sounds like it should work if I work slowly. Am using a 0.1mm precision measuring tool for this as my micrometer won’t fit perfectly. Then 400, 800, 2000 and 3000 grit - followed by 40, 30, 20, 10, 5, 3, 0.5 micron paper to restore a mirror finish.

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I'm sure you will do it in a professional way 😁

I have just 2 questions :

- in the manual you attached previously ..it is indicated that the thermal pad for the mosfets is 1 mm thick..right ? If we consider ( arbitrarily) it gets compressed by 50% after block tightening...that means you have to remove a 0.5 thick layer of copper to get a good direct contact ?

- without thermal pads.& if you succeed to get a direct contact... is there any risk to get an electric short between mosfet's pins & the monoblock itself...i mean a short circuit ?

better to check mosfets height...which is taller, the chips or theyr pins ?

I am thinking about pins insulation solution & it has to be a material resistant to high temps.


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Lol professional - more like try hard amateur 😄

The thermal pads are 1mm, have some 0.5mm spare too - so can save on some sanding. I have to remove about 1mm of material (about to go measure - lazy Saturday morning) as it needs to go down over a mm.

The ‘fets themselves are above their pins, so could always grease it if necessary - but am hoping some sanding and thinner pads will work.

Thanks for looking into the manual and going the extra mile here.

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