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Cooler Master QuickFire Rapid Repair/Cleaning

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So I’ve packed up a Cooler Master QuickFire Rapid mechanical keyboard last year when it started to bug out on me – at first I thought I was typing too fast for it as it would randomly disconnect from my Windows dev machine and it started to get really annoying.

 

One of the features of the keyboard is the removable usb cable and it’s pretty stiff, but annoyingly it is a low profile connector where it fits into the keyboard – most of the usb cables I have that would fit it from PS3 controller charging cables etc. were way too tall and as such I just packed the keyboard up with plans to return it to Cooler Master for possible RMA.

 

Well one thing led to another and I ended up voiding the warranty and looking into the innards myself because I can’t help myself (and I hate paying shipping charges – no I didn’t call Cooler Master to even find out if I would have to pay them).

 

Regardless of the above I also noticed some sticky residue on the keys and some of the Cherry MX switches were very sticky – I’m guessing some beer or pop or both but I’m really trying hard to recall a time I would’ve spilled something on this awesome keyboard… anyways (man this is getting long already and no pictures – sorry!).

 

I began the descent of cracking open the guts and first you’ll want to void your warranty and remove the single screw that secures the bottom and top halves together:
 wp_000773_thumb.jpg?w=467&h=348

 

Then using an old library card, gift card or if you’re brave credit card or license – pry the lock tabs out of their counterparts to allow the top and bottom halves to open:
wp_000781_thumb.jpg?w=479&h=356

 

There are numerous tabs along most edges if I recall correctly, none of them are anything special but I did really have to force the card in there but once the card was in the tabs loosened (it’s really more ideal to use as thick a card as you can as you can’t really pry at an angle with plastic cards).

 

Once the halves are split open you can get a better peek at the tabs I was talking about here:
wp_000780_thumb.jpg?w=479&h=357wp_000779_thumb.jpg?w=479&h=357

 

By the way you don’t have to remove the key caps at all to get this far, I wanted to remove all of them to clean.

 

With the halves split carefully lift up on the back of the metal bracket holding the key pcb matrix, (no – not the Keanu Reeves kind!), in place, there is a small pcb underneath connected by a four wire pin header that connects the usb connection.
wp_000777_thumb.jpg?w=477&h=635

 

Oddly enough this is where I found my issue – somehow (don’t ask me how), the wire had already come off of the pin header before I had even really lifted up on the key pcb!

 

But seeing as I still had sticky keys I continued on with the other work, happy that the biggest problem was already solved.

 

I didn’t take as many pictures of the tools you’ll need to have in order to do this work but here is a quick list:

  1. Soldering Iron
  2. Solder, I prefer thin (0.023” or 0.813mm) for this kind of precise work
  3. Soldering wick and/or solder sucker
  4. Precision screwdriver (flathead is really the only bit/tip needed)
  5. Q-tips
  6. 90%+ Isopropyl Alcohol

At this point the key matrix pcb should be separate from everything else, I found the Cherry MX switch that needed some cleaning and flipped over the unit to start de-soldering the switch from the pcb – this is the only way to take apart the switch for cleaning.
wp_000774_thumb.jpg?w=473&h=630

 

The board is very simple and I thought it was actually kind of neat that it had labels on it for all the switch positions – a nice touch that makes repairs very easy!

 

Basically take the soldering iron, (heated up and ready to go), and start applying heat to the soldering point you want to remove.  I’ve found it’s best to just briefly apply the irons tip to the solder repeatedly until it’s flowing – if the iron tip is just sitting on the solder point constantly it’ll get too hot and the trace will burn up (not good).

 

Once the solder is flowing, use the wick or solder sucker to remove.
wp_000771_thumb.jpg?w=472&h=355

 

It doesn’t have to be completely clean either, leftover solder on the trace is actually a good thing as it’ll make reapplying solder later once the switch is cleaned easier as everything is already tinned.

Now that the solder is removed the switch can be pushed out of the pcb and metal frame easily by pushing on the black knob poking through the pcb.

 

Once the switch is out there are four tabs, two each on opposite sides of the switch that will need to be lifted in order for the halves to separate.  I found it easy to unlock one pair at a time using a small precision flathead screwdriver:
wp_000765_thumb.jpg?w=479&h=357

 

One the switch top and bottom halves are apart you can get to the inside easily – make sure to open the halves slowly as there is a spring inside that likes to jump!
wp_000770_thumb.jpg?w=479&h=357

 

Take special care to notice the orientation of the inside components – the white teeth push down against the metal stationary tabs, it’s entirely possible to assemble the switch back together incorrectly and that’s not something you want to notice only after you’ve soldered everything back together and assembled.

 

Here is the top part of the switch without the spring for a better look, it’s a tad blurry (sorry using my cell phone), but you can see the teeth I’m talking about:
wp_000768_thumb.jpg?w=479&h=357

 

Moving on to cleaning, use the alcohol and q-tips to gentle rub away any old Coke or Samuel Adams residue from the interior of the switch housing (using anything else is a bad idea as I’m not sure what kind of plastics or metals are used and you could eat away or tarnish the components).

 

I modified a q-tip by removing most but not all of the cotton part to make it thin enough to reach the smaller areas, in the past I’ve used toothpicks to gently scrub at things but for general cleanup it shouldn’t be needed.
wp_000769_thumb.jpg?w=479&h=357

 

Once the cleaning is done reassemble the switch and solder it back on, but before everything is reassembled it’s wise to test everything while it’s still apart.

 

As the small pcb usb connection board is really hard to connect to the key matrix pcb I removed the connection board for testing purposes:
wp_000776_thumb.jpg?w=474&h=631

 

With any luck success will be had and everything will function as expected.

 

Reassemble and enjoy your keyboard.

 

For those looking for Cherry MX switches I’ve found eBay is a great place to look.

I also found some bumpers on Amazon that are made to quiet down the key presses on Cherry MX mechanical keyboards which I may get as they are very loud during online voice chatting as well as regular cell phone calls.

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Great write up man. Love it. I spilled beer on my keyboard, and instead of taking it apart I ended up using some dental tool, WD40, Electric Spray, and compressed air to clean them up. I know one day I will have to take it apart and clean it well, and this will come in handy.

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Thanks Jesse, yeah there are definitely other ways to clean your board - this way covers cleaning and replacing the Cherry MX switch.

 

Seeing as how there are brown, red and blue MX switches and some crazy people switch out their whole board for a new color of switch I figured this would be a nice guide for people to see that it's not that hard to do.

 

I'm a little OCD as well so taking things apart to clean is about the only option in my mind :D

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How in the holy-munky hell did I not see this thread when you started it?  Awesome!  And thank you.  Will come in handy when I crack open a Rapid-I for a look-see.  I'm considering an entire switch-mod over to some Zealio linears instead of MX browns.  ;)

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