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jakings238

Tubing advice.

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Guys whats your opinion on clear tubing? This is my first watercooling build and I'm seeing reported issues everywhere of clouding and degrading of tubing leaving it stained and aesthetically unpleasing. Would you say for future proofs sake it would be worth getting solid color tubing rather than clear so the effects of clouding o staining are not visible?

 

 

Kind Regards,

Chris

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If you are new to it, I'd go with clear. It's easier to see where the coolant is when you are draining/filling/dismantling. Little doses of coolant can't sneak out and ruin hardware if you can see it coming.

The state of the tubing is also a good indicator of when it's time to clean everything too. Clouding can be fixed with a snake brush, and staining can be fixed by not using dye.:D

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What Cheaps said, go with clear tubing to begin with that way you can see what is going on where. Just avoid PrimiChill tubing I have had that in the past and it has major plasticizer issues. 

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What tubing would you guys recommend? Someone on here told me to get some tygon tubing so i did and it feels good quality but then again... I've never felt a bad quality tubing to compare it too,,,

I've read many posts saying this tubing goes yellow after a period of time.

I cant find a review of a tubing where people have 100% positive things to say about it....

If i was to use tygon tubing with this would it be a good combination?

 

http://www.scan.co.uk/products/ek-ekoolant-blood-red-1000ml-includes-additives-against-algae-and-corrosion

 

 

Thanks a lot guys.

Chris

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Tygon is some good stuff. Acrylic tubing can be fun as well but at the end of the day is a plastic based component and will discolor.

For starters tygon is great. If you are up for it then copper tubing is the way to go. And it's a lot easier then it looks.

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Duralene is the current fav for not clouding and mnimal plasticizer.

 

Tygon is garbage for clouding and plasicizer (clear only)

 

Just go straight to acrylic imho.

 

Isn't Duralene a Tygon product?

 

This is what i mean... so confusing. One of you is saying to use it as it's good and the the other saying its garbage.

 

I'm confused as hell :(

 

Its okay to be confused, and at the end of the day you have to make the decision based on what you want, and what you afford. Duralene is great stuff as well and I have no issues recommending it. 

 

If you decide to go acrylic tubing, its not difficult to bend, once you get the first done it feels easy to get the rest done.

 

Also here is a great little article on new Tygon tubing  (do you research, and make your decision). If you plan for a drain valve in your loop, you can change your tubing down the line with ease. 

 

http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/638-crap-or-not-tygon-e-3603/?hl=crap

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I've used black tygon in all of my builds without a hitch.  Personally, I've never really liked the look of clear tubing, but that's just personal preference.  I've heard good things about acrylic tubing, and now there's a few options as far as fittings go for them (EK and Primochill) with more on the way, I'm sure.

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I've used black tygon in all of my builds without a hitch.  Personally, I've never really liked the look of clear tubing, but that's just personal preference.  I've heard good things about acrylic tubing, and now there's a few options as far as fittings go for them (EK and Primochill) with more on the way, I'm sure.

 

I'm tempted to use black tygon too.Surely it's a good thing to be able to see what is actually happening within the tubes though as you could be getting a big build up of 'gunk' and be none the wiser.

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I'm tempted to use black tygon too.Surely it's a good thing to be able to see what is actually happening within the tubes though as you could be getting a big build up of 'gunk' and be none the wiser.

 

I've never had an issue with gunk build up.  I use Distilled with PTNuke and a kill coil.  I always flush my rads, reservoirs, and tubing before installation, and I always use new tubing on new builds anyway.

 

You just have to decide what the theme of your build will be, and then look for quality gear that will meet that theme.

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Isn't Duralene a Tygon product?

 

 

Its okay to be confused, and at the end of the day you have to make the decision based on what you want, and what you afford. Duralene is great stuff as well and I have no issues recommending it. 

 

If you decide to go acrylic tubing, its not difficult to bend, once you get the first done it feels easy to get the rest done.

 

Also here is a great little article on new Tygon tubing  (do you research, and make your decision). If you plan for a drain valve in your loop, you can change your tubing down the line with ease. 

 

http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/638-feces-or-not-tygon-e-3603/?hl=feces

As far as im aware Duralene is not a tygon product,dont quote me on that however

 

This is a great resource for tubing,semi decent testing of tube in a variety of conditions.

 

http://www.overclock.net/t/1199158/plasticizer-problems-discussion-gallery/0_20

 

Clear tube is the worst offender,black tends to be better.

 

Current recommended tube

 

ether-based SUPERTHANE    

Sidewinder's "Duralene"    

Tygon x43 "Beverage Clear"  

 

I should make this clear,Tygon has many grades/types,not all are bad,just the tube normally stocked by vendors,ie the cheaper end of the scale.

 

Norprene tube is good but only comes in black and a matt finish

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Thanks guys. I've got two brands of tubing going on.

The visable tubes will be XSPC high flex black here

 

 

 

And behind the scenes I'll have Tygon R3603 clear tubing with a Silver kill coil within it.

 

This should give ma good shot at being able to:

1) Keep a visually pleasing look as with it being a solid colour discolouring wont be an issue.

2) Help prevent the build up of algae by using two kill coils within the loop one after each radiator.

3) Still keep an eye on whats going on within the loop by using a clear tubing that will be visable without too much effort.

 

Would you guys say this sounds like a good plan?

 

I will also be using EK blood red coolant which I'd ordered when I intended on using clear tubing.

 

Cheers,

Chris

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That sounds good to me. Remember tubing is something that you can change easily if ever needed. While planning the loop make sure you plan for a drain valve to help you drain the loop if ever needed. Normally we put the drain valve at the lowest point in the loop so that gravity can help is drain the loop.

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I would just scratch the clear tubing, personally.  I mean, you have a reservoir, which will serve that purpose, not to mention you'll be able to see better into the reservoir than in to tubing.

 

Algae doesn't really build up in moving water so much as where it's allowed to constantly collect (ie, your reservoir).  I tried EK coolant earlier this year for 2 months.  In that time, algae had grown and literally ate into the reservoir.  I couldn't get it out.  I tried boiling it, using vinegar, mineral spirits, hot sauce, ketchup, soaking it.... nothing would get this feces off of the reservoir.

 

In the 3+ years I've been watercooling, I've never had that issue using distilled, 1 kill coil and a couple drops of Copper Sulphate.  I also clean my loops every 3 months to maintain them and get new water in.  I've never had an issue until I used that pre-mix gunk (which also smells like death).

 

Distilled+Kill Coil+/- Copper Sulphate.  Works like a charm.

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The frustrating thing I've found is the "higher" grade tubing that is either plasticizer free, or is supposed to not cloud as much is really, really stiff. This makes it rather difficult to use, and it's often not exactly... clear. More like cloudy by design anyways. It also doesn't like to play well with certain kinds of compression fittings. It's a real pain in the feces generator. Bill and I have messed around with a lot of different kinds of tubing, and our favorite is still Tygon's original 3603. It's very flexible and easy to use, but it does have a tendency to cloud a bit after being used for a while. 

 

I haven't played with acrylic, but may in my next build to avoid tubing problems.

 

Also, if you need a recommendation for coolant/dyes, I wouldn't look any further than Mayhems. The stuff is absolutely top quality, comes in a million different colors (all of which you can customize by mixing), is backed by great customer support, and has all the biocide mixtures you'd need as well to keep your loop clean. I've heard a lot of negative things about other brands of coolants, but Mayhems is always rated the best of the best.

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The frustrating thing I've found is the "higher" grade tubing that is either plasticizer free, or is supposed to not cloud as much is really, really stiff. This makes it rather difficult to use, and it's often not exactly... clear. More like cloudy by design anyways. It also doesn't like to play well with certain kinds of compression fittings. It's a real pain in the feces generator. Bill and I have messed around with a lot of different kinds of tubing, and our favorite is still Tygon's original 3603. It's very flexible and easy to use, but it does have a tendency to cloud a bit after being used for a while. 

 

I haven't played with acrylic, but may in my next build to avoid tubing problems.

 

Also, if you need a recommendation for coolant/dyes, I wouldn't look any further than Mayhems. The stuff is absolutely top quality, comes in a million different colors (all of which you can customize by mixing), is backed by great customer support, and has all the biocide mixtures you'd need as well to keep your loop clean. I've heard a lot of negative things about other brands of coolants, but Mayhems is always rated the best of the best.

I think the plasticizer is put in to make it flexible,the stiffness with P-Free tube is to be expected.

 

Clouding is just water permeating the tube,very different to plasticizer........most dont get that tho and grab the plasticizer pitchfork.

 

Personally,im a DI and Cu biocide guy,adding more feces to a loop is not worth it

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As far as im aware Duralene is not a tygon product,dont quote me on that however

 

This is a great resource for tubing,semi decent testing of tube in a variety of conditions.

 

http://www.overclock.net/t/1199158/plasticizer-problems-discussion-gallery/0_20

 

Clear tube is the worst offender,black tends to be better.

 

Current recommended tube

 

ether-based SUPERTHANE    

Sidewinder's "Duralene"    

Tygon x43 "Beverage Clear"  

 

I should make this clear,Tygon has many grades/types,not all are bad,just the tube normally stocked by vendors,ie the cheaper end of the scale.

 

Norprene tube is good but only comes in black and a matt finish

 

 

Durelene/Tygon are both produced by Saint Gobain.

 

I will not go into details vis a vis which tubing is the best-there are far too many variables-but some though have been clearly proven to be the worst.

 

Not trying to divert traffic in anyway towards other forums-the above mentioned OCN link is very good as a guide to what tubing does what etc-just bring along your ability to sift through all the fanboy bs :-)

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