alpenwasser 14 Posted October 18, 2013 Table of Contents (Note: I'll be using the original post dates to allow you to get a better impression of the build's progress.) 01. - 2013-APR-30: Why Dremel When You Can Drill? 02. - 2013-MAY-01: Progress On Back Panel - First Fitting 03. - 2013-MAY-06: The PSU Mount 04. - 2013-MAY-20: Modding/Sleeving the PSU & The HDD Tower 05. - 2013-MAY-21: PSU Sleeving - Continued 06. - 2013-MAY-22: Making a Custom Fan Controller 07. - 2013-MAY-29: Fan Controller & PSU Finished 08. - 2013-MAY-29: Back Panel - Progress 09. - 2013-MAY-30: Reservoir Modding 10. - 2013-JUN-23: Complete (For Now) 11. - 2013-OCT-20: Small Addendum On the Aquainlet Reservoir Prologue Hello everyone! suggested I join this place and post some of my work, and he tends to give some good advice in my experience, so I thought I better follow it (we share a crippling addiction to copper). I have also been following MNPCTech on Youtube for quite a while. And what better way to introduce myself than a build log.... :D This is a build I did in spring 2013. Its eventual purpose will be to serve as our HTPC, a file and media server and it will do some computing for BOINC. Until my other build is up and running, it is currently serving as my personal rig though. Some of you may be familiar with it. The basic concept: Replace the back panel of the R4 with a custom one in order to fit a 360 radiator back there (couldn't do it in the front: HDDs). Also, the PSU has been relocated to the front. The End Result I hope this image size works for you guys, otherwise please let me know and I can switch to a different resolution. (click image for full res) The Name Zwieback Exceeding Useful Specifications. Because: Why not? Zwieback is a hilarious word IMO, and in English doubly so (I don't know why I think that, I just do.) I have been naming my rigs after Greek deities ever since I played the original Deus Ex (still love that game). I also might have a slight weakness for Greek mythology in general... Main PC GutsM/B: MSI Z77A-GD65CPU: Intel i7 2600kRAM: TBDGPU: OnboardSSD: Intel 335 60 GBHDD's: 4 x WD RE4 2 TBHDD's: 3 x WD Red 3 TBPSU: BeQuiet 550 WCase: Fractal Design R4 w/ window side panelW/C PartsCPU Block: EK Supreme HF Acetal/CopperPump: Aquacomputer Aquastream StandardRes: Aquacomputer Aquainlet blue anodizedRad Fans: 3 x SP120 quietRadiator: Alphacool NexXxos UT60 360 mmAlright then, let's get to it! :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mosquito 760 Posted October 18, 2013 Well that's different, and I like it! Can't wait to see more of the build progress. Also, welcome to the Zoo. Don't for get to Introduce Yourself and Check out the Podcasts and Our Reviews Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alpenwasser 14 Posted October 18, 2013 Starting the New Back Panel The Case I'm sure all of you have seen an R4 before, so I won't be posting pics of it in its stock form. Here it is after removal of the back panel. (click image for full res) The Back Panel The old back panel out of its natural habitat. (click image for full res) Rivets A few rivets had to be sacrificed for the greater good :) (click image for full res) Paint Jobs Ah yes, the happy coincidence of this build :) The new back panel will be made from the Caselabs SMH10's bottom plate. I have replaced the stock bottom plate in my SMH10 for HELIOS with a meshed version, so this one is no longer needed. It has the perfect width for this and is high enough (the unneeded height will be cut off, naturally). Besides the good dimensional fit, the Caselabs bottom panel also has a very nice powdercoat job that matches the R4's very nicely. Not that this will ever be seen (placed in a sideboard), but it's still nice to have this matching. (click image for full res) Dimensions As mentioned above, perfect width. (click image for full res) Tape Low adhesion tape. Sadly it is not available here in a wider version, but this did the job pretty nicely, too. (click image for full res) Edges Starting the tape job at the edges. (click image for full res) Corners And the corners. (click image for full res) First Tape Layer The first tape layer completed. I put a second layer of some more robust tape over the first one since the low-tack tape is rather thin and does not provide very good protection against mechanical damage. (click image for full res) Second Tape Layer The second layer serves as the main protection from mechanical damage. (click image for full res) Radiator - Corner Bolts First I drilled the corner holes for bolting the radiator to the panel. (click image for full res) Mesh Pattern Here it is: The masochist inside me has spoken :lol: Instead of going the usual route of just dremelling (or jig-sawing) out the opening for the radiator, I've decided to go a different path and "simply" make the relevant part of the new panel into mesh by drilling lots and lots and lots and lots of wholes. I made a pattern which I printed onto sheets of paper and then taped onto the panel. This served as a reference for drilling the wholes. For those interested: Pattern Link (pdf) For different spacings you can easily scale the pdf up or down. Anyway, on to the work: (click image for full res) Overlay Since the radiator is longer than a sheet of A4, I needed to compose the pattern from several sheets of paper (well, two). (click image for full res) Red Zone The red zone denoted where there ought to be no drilling. (click image for full res) Drilling - Start I soon realized that I would have to overlay the entire paper with a protective sheet of adhesive tape. It just tore up too easily. Should have used adhesive paper. (click image for full res) Nooo! Right before the finishing line of phase 1, the drill bit broke! Aaargh! (click image for full res) Phase 1 Complete After about four hours of drilling (ouch, my wrist :( ): (click image for full res) Phase 1 Complete - Naked And without the tape. Clearly I have made some mistakes, but it's not screwed up too badly. Since nobody will ever get to see this anyway once the rig is in service, it doesn't matter that much if it's not perfect (although my pride would certainly have liked that :lol: ). Somebody on OC3D actually counted the holes, he said there were 1174 of them IIRC. (click image for full res) Bottom Line I really like this approach instead of cutting out a huge opening and placing a grill over it, but if I ever do this again, it will be with at least a drill press, if not with a CNC machine. The precision you can achieve by hand for such a highly repetitive task is just not that great, no matter how patient and careful you are. But still, overall I'm pretty happy with the result, it was a cool experiment to do. :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alpenwasser 14 Posted October 18, 2013 Well that's different, and I like it! Can't wait to see more of the build progress. Also, welcome to the Zoo. Don't for get to Introduce Yourself and Check out the Podcasts and Our Reviews Thanks, will do! :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mosquito 760 Posted October 18, 2013 That is a lot of drilling, when I did my retro HTPC, I used small square dowels as fan grills... 2 toothpick sized holes in each, plus 2 reciprocal holes in the face of it... so tedious! lol Keep up the good work :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cheapskate 49999836 Posted October 18, 2013 You could have glued the template to the tape with paper glue. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alpenwasser 14 Posted October 18, 2013 That is a lot of drilling, when I did my retro HTPC, I used small square dowels as fan grills... 2 toothpick sized holes in each, plus 2 reciprocal holes in the face of it... so tedious! lol Keep up the good work :) Wow, that sounds even worse. Ah well, sometimes our inner masochist just needs some feeding. :D You could have glued the template to the tape with paper glue. Haha, now that you mention it, it sounds ridiculously obvious! :lol: Alright then, onwards we go: New Back Panel - Progress Back panel cut to size and first work on cutout for I/O area. The fan grill holes have been drilled and deburred, but not yet painted. Overview It fits almost perfectly into the R4. I did need to make a few minor adjustments (taking a mm off here or there), but overall the fit is near perfect. (click for full res) Perfect Width Not much to say here. Width of the SMH10's bottom panel is perfect. (click for full res) Overview To give you an impression of the concept behind all these shenanigans ;) (click for full res) Radiator A closer look at how the radiator fits in. (click for full res) Space Left The space left between the M/B and the rad. (click for full res) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alpenwasser 14 Posted October 18, 2013 The PSU Mount External Shot - No Front Panel As you can see, there's still some refinement required, but this gives you a pretty good idea about how everything fits together. Since the front panel will hide this anyway, it does not need to be absolutely perfect. (click image for full res) External Shot - Front Panel Mounted The 90 degree plug fits just behind the front door, so it does close. :) (click image for full res) Internal Shot Do not worry about the cables at this point. I started to sleeve them to get some practice, and I was not yet aware at that point that I would be completely changing the PSU location. Naturally, all the cables were way too long now, so I had to shorten them to get everything to look neat and tidy. (click image for full res) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alpenwasser 14 Posted October 18, 2013 Sleeving - Part One Opening the PSU I'm sure you all know that opening a PSU is not a very good idea if you don't know what you're doing. It's not magic of course; as long as certain precautions are taken it's perfectly safe (how else would a manufacturer's technician do maintenance and repairs? ;)), but people who do not take those precautions leave themselves open to being nominated and possibly awarded a Darwin award. Anyway: It's not a terribly impressive PSU, but it doesn't need to be. It just needs to do its job, and do it well. Going by BQ's reputation, that should be the case here. Feel free to mock me for the terrible hideousness to the left of the PSU. :lol: (click image for full res) Cutting Unneeded Wires Since I need neither the PCI-E auxiliary power cables nor all of the SATA and molex power connectors, some of the wires were cut and their remains kept inside the PSU. I left enough wire to have something to solder on to should I ever need to do that for some reason. The brownish stuff on the red wires is just tape residue, not a burnt wire, for those worrying. ;) I numbered them and written down what connects to what in case of restoration. (click image for full res) Cable Lacing I must admit: I'm not terribly fond of zip ties. They look ugly IMO, it's much too easy to overtighten them and crush a cable's mantle, and they are terribly wasteful with all that remaining plastic being chopped off and binned. I therefore started to investigate alternatives a while ago, and stumbled upon the rather ancient are of cable lacing. Before the advent of zip ties, this was how cables and wires were organized. Since it's rather time consuming to do this properly, it has fallen out of favour in many areas and been supplanted by zip ties. However, there are still areas where cables are laced instead of zip tied, most notably the aerospace industry (NASA has a rather nice manual on it somewhere). Those of you who have worked in telecommunications will probably have learned and used this, depending on how old you are. At this stage I was still very much only develping my technique. These were some first experiments. Front side of my very first try during the process: (click image for full res) Same try, later stage: (click image for full res) The back side of that wire group: (click image for full res) 24 Pin Ok then, let's try this on a double layer cable with a bit more wires: (click image for full res) Notice that the 24 pin is rather short at this point. This makes it a bit tricky to get it neat and tidy. This is not the end result though. (click image for full res) HDD Tower Since the top of the HDD tower (or however one chooses to call it) is anchored to the 5.25" bay enclosure in the case's standard config and said enclosure had been discarded in this build, I had to devise a new plan to make sure the HDD's stay in place and everything looked right. I decided to anchor the HDD tower's top place directly to the underside of the PSU. So, let's make a few holes: (click image for full res) HDD Tower - Overview The tower is pretty much straight now, its top end is 0.5 mm further away from the case front than its bottom part. It's measurable but not really noticeable. (click image for full res) SATA Power Cable Let's make this nice and straight, shall we? The PSU was still open at this point because I still needed to make a few adjustments to it. (click image for full res) Current Overview I placed the pump in for taking some measurements, and I moved the fans between the back panel and the radiator. (click image for full res) RIP - Trusty Friend After more than seven years of loyal service my lighter gave up on me. It's a jet flame lighter, so it's actually pretty well suited not only for melting paracord, but also for heat shrink since it's possible to quite accurately regulate the heat output getting to the heat shrink (also, it does not leave any black residue). I originally bought this during my army time for officer candidate school; it was very well suited for lighting those pressed charcoal sticks you use for warming your hands (it was rather cold and we were outside a lot :lol: ). It's served me extremely well during the years, although I've not used it all that much as a non-smoker. I took it apart to see if I could fix it, but it seemed the valve for the Butane tank was defective, so no luck. :( (click image for full res) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alpenwasser 14 Posted October 18, 2013 PSU Sleeving - Continued Got a new lighter to continue sleeving: (click image for full res) SATA Power Cables While the 90 degree SATA power connectors allow for extremely neat wire routing, they are not really well suited for sleeving. This is what I came up with: (click image for full res) The HDD tower's back side: (click image for full res) Pump Power Delivery Obviously the pump can't run without some voltage goodness. :) This is not the final cable routing, but it shows the rough idea. (click image for full res) Fan Power Delivery Remember those clipped wires I mentioned and how I left some cable to solder on to in case I ever needed them again? Good thing I did that. Originally I was going to run the fans off the same cable as the pump, but then I realized that I would have to do double wires inside the crimp connectors, which I really don't like. They're almost impossible to crimp unless you have very thin wires (I don't), and they're an absolute nightmare to sleeve. So I decided to to a dedicated fan cable. This is where I soldered the new wires onto the remains of the old ones: (click image for full res) Overview: (click image for full res) And this is how I planed to connect the fans at that stage: (click image for full res) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alpenwasser 14 Posted October 18, 2013 Making a Custom Fan Controller As some of you may know, the SP120's are not exactly all that quiet on 12 V. Now, I could have just used the old 5 V or 7 V wire switcheroo mod, but that would not give me very good control over the fan speed. Since I didn't yet know what the temps were going to be like, and since I needed this machine to be as quiet as possible, I decided to make a custom fan controller. The idea of this was not so much to constantly change the fan speeds, but to be able to adjust the fan speed to the optimal level and then leave it at that, possibly changing it if it gets very hot in summer. But other than that, it's more of a set-and-forget thing. The Phobya Fan Splitter PCB First things first: I needed some connectors. So I desoldered this Xigmatek fan splitter. (click image for full res) The New PCB Then I soldered those connectors onto a new PCB, along with a variable resistor. (click image for full res) Cutting it down to Size Obviously it couldn't stay like that. (click image for full res) And another angle: (click image for full res) The Backside I gotta say: This was one tricky bastard. I'm talking about tweezers and taking more than an hour to solder these few wires. To be honest I would have required an additional pair of hands, doing it like this wasn't really an optimal solution. Since my soldering iron can't be adjusted I ended up melting off some of the insulation on the wires (they heat up extremely quickly since they're so short and tiny). The red tape was just for support, that's already gone. To give it a bit of extra strength and to compensate for the melted insulation I encased the connections with epoxy glue. If I was to do this more often I would definitely get a proper soldering iron and make myself some sort of contraption which could hold everything in place so that I could do some properly precise work. (click image for full res) It Lives! Yeah, despite the not exactly stellar soldering job it works as planned. And there are no loose connections or anything like that. I applied some force to the connectors while it was running, no problem at all. So it might not look very nice, but it's solid, especially once it had some additional strength from the glue (the 4 pin connector still wiggled around quite a bit when I took out the plug, so that definitely needed additional strengthening). (click image for full res) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mosquito 760 Posted October 18, 2013 Very nice work on the sleeving. I love long SATA chains like that, for some reason. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alpenwasser 14 Posted October 18, 2013 Very nice work on the sleeving. I love long SATA chains like that, for some reason. Thanks! Yeah it's just so nice and parallel and tidy. At least that's why I like it. :D Fan Controller - Finished I strengthened the fan controller with quite a substantial amount of epoxy glue. It might not be the prettiest, but it won't be visible and it's pretty much bomb proof at this point. (click image for full res) (click image for full res) PSU - Finished (More or Less) There was still some very minor finishing touches to be applied, but it's as good as done. (click image for full res) 24 Pin - Detail There's a minor mistake in my lacing in the middle lacing section, but I didn't redo the whole thing just for that. The lacing was not 100% straight at this point, that was done once everything was mounted, there was enough flex to do that. (click image for full res) Fan Cable This cable connects to the fan controller, hence only the 12 V wire. Obviously I couldn't use the same technique for this as for the 24 pin. (click image for full res) That's it for today, thanks for stopping by. I'll post the rest tomorrow since I've had a very long day and am very tired. So long. :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Michael Kaiser 62 Posted October 19, 2013 Hey Alpenwasser Glad you finally made it over to the dark side Lol. Welcome to The Mod Zoo. Everyone this is my good friend and he suffers from the same copper addiction that I do. So don't take it out on him because of me. Glad to have you here bro I love all your work! If you need any further Embarrassment you know I'm here for you! Dx Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
B NEGATIVE 13 Posted October 19, 2013 Bloody hell,he is following me about!.. :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alpenwasser 14 Posted October 19, 2013 Hey Alpenwasser Glad you finally made it over to the dark side Lol. Welcome to The Mod Zoo. Everyone this is my good friend and he suffers from the same copper addiction that I do. Yeah, I do. :D So don't take it out on him because of me. Glad to have you here bro I love all your work! If you need any further Embarrassment you know I'm here for you! Dx Will do, sir! Bloody hell,he is following me about!.. :lol: Ooops, he's figured it out! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Michael Kaiser 62 Posted October 19, 2013 Knock knock - who's there? candy gram knock knock who's there? Land shark !!! Sharknado Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alpenwasser 14 Posted October 19, 2013 Haha, that is one awesome GIF! :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alpenwasser 14 Posted October 19, 2013 Back Panel - Progress Paint Since I didn't want to repaint the entire panel, I used this to paint each hole individually. Yes, it was a rather slow process. :lol: (click image for full res) Back Panel - Inner Side The unpainted side. I thought this would provide some good contrast to see the difference. (click image for full res) Back Panel - Outer Side The screw holes weren't painted, since they're not visible (also, they are threaded). (click image for full res) Back Panel - Test Fit It fits nice and snug, and it's all solid and good. (click image for full res) Back Panel - M/B Test Fit The M/B fit nicely to the new back panel. The I/O shield lined up perfectly. You can also see the screws used to mount the panel. As you can see, there's no nuts involved, the threads are directly in the back panel. It's thick enough for this to work nicely, as long as you're not too brutal there's no danger of ripping the threads out of the aluminium. (click image for full res) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alpenwasser 14 Posted October 19, 2013 Reservoir Modding The Problem A few years ago (probably ~2007) I bought this nice little reservoir for my Eheim 1046. It's a very handy little thing, and it's built like a bloody tank (seriously, you could bludgeon somebody to death with this). However, back then Aquacomputer had not yet fully jumped on the G1/4" train and was still using G1/8" in many of their products (as they had since their inception). This required a rather ugly and unwieldy adapter when wanting to use modern fittings, such as the lovely blue Monsoon ones I've bought. The adapter itself looks like this: (click image for full res) And with a fitting on it: (click image for full res) The Plan Well, it was quite simple really: Retap the hole to G1/4". However, this would leave me with a slight problem: Naked aluminium exposed to the coolant. I do use a corrosion inhibitor in my loop, but I wanted to reduce the chance for corrosion to ruin the party by painting over the naked aluminium and sealing the hole thing against the coolant. Disclaimer I'm well aware of what galvanic corrosion is and how it works (well, I'm not a chemist, but I have a better grasp of it than most people I'd say). I'm not saying that this is a good idea or something you should necessarily try yourself. It's an experiment. If it works, great, if not, I haven't lost anything since I have no more use for the reservoir anyway. But don't anybody start panicking about corrosion please. I was aware of the risks, I weighed them and I made an informed decision to go ahead. So far I have encountered no problems (the loop has been in use for about four and a half months now, 24/7). Protecting the Insides Obviously I didn't want to crash into the opposing inner wall with the drill. (click image for full res) The Drill and Tap The 11.80 mm drill bit with the G1/4" tap. (click image for full res) Improvising The 11.80 didn't fit into the drill bit adapter, so I had to improvise a bit. The adapter actually belongs to a Bosch pneumatic drill hammer, but that thing is way too powerful for this sort of thing, so I decided to go with this configuration. It worked surprisingly well. Naturally I didn't just drill the G1/8" to 11.80 mm, but first to 9 mm, 10 mm and then to 11.80 mm (a 11 mm drill bit would have been handy, 10 to 11.80 is a rather large step as I fount out). (click image for full res) Lubrication I didn't have any actual lubricant specifically for this, so I just used some of the gun lubricant I have laying around (both for drilling and tapping the thread). Since it's made for the high speed movement of a gun action, it works very well for this. (click image for full res) Tapping Hole The 11.80 mm hole before threading. (click image for full res) Threading And after cutting the thread. You can clearly see how thick the walls are on this thing. That's why you need to lubricate very well. Otherwise the drill just blocks. (click image for full res) Test Fit As expected, much better. :) (click image for full res) Protection Alright then, let's paint that sucker! I did one coat of etch primer and two coats of paint. Obviously I can't really do proper surface treatment within the thread, or put on too much paint since it will just get stripped off by the fitting's thread anyway, but this should work well enough to prevent the coolant from getting to the naked aluminium. (click image for full res) And on the inside: (click image for full res) Painted The coat is pretty thick and bonded nicely to the surface. (click image for full res) Done The Monsoon fitting hides the paint job very well, and it goes in and out without stripping the paint off the threads (there were two small patches of paint stripped off, but I've covered those with the Humbrol enamel paint and things are nice and sealed now). As you can see, the reservoir has sustained the occasional scratch over the years. (click image for full res) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alpenwasser 14 Posted October 19, 2013 Complete! (For Now ;)) Overall I'm pretty happy with how things have turned out. I won't claim to be the first one who's ever done a similar mod, but I'm the first one I know of, and I think it's a pretty neat idea for my specific usage scenario. Not having to use any add- on cards has allowed me to use the internal space of the R4 in a very optimal fashion for the hardware I've put in this rig. Some Niggles and Thoughts I'm not 100 % happy with the back plate, and if I had to redo it I would either have somebody CNC it or at least find a workshop where I can use a drill press, but considering nobody's ever going to see it anyway I'm actually still pretty satisfied with the result. And now that the black fans are underneath the holes and the holes have been painted inside and outside the errors in the hole pattern are actually much harder to spot and don't just jump out at you anymore (at least not with me :lol: ). I must admit that the SP120's, even though they are the quiet edition fans, are not really quiet and the fan controller I've made has definitely been a good investment of my time. So with the fans turned down it really is a pretty quiet rig, especially considering that the WD R4's are enterprise HDDs and are therefore not exactly the quietest of drives. Aside from that I'm very happy with the rig, I think it's a pretty nice little machine. :) It's not perfect, but with the means I had at my disposal I think I've done pretty well. It's also been a very good learning experience, and I intend to incorporate the lessons learned into HELIOS (which is one of the reasons I completed this project first). There is one thing I would probably change if I were to redo this project: Use a Xeon CPU and another M/B with ECC RAM. I did not originally plan on using ZFS as my file system solution, but it became production ready shortly before I undertook this project (but after I'd already ordered the parts). I have been extremely happy with ZFS so far, but it would be preferable to have ECC memory (I won't bore you with the details, it's just what it is). But yes, for the past four and a half months this rig has been serving me very nicely. :) Anyway, enough with the chit-chat. (click image for full res) (click image for full res) (click image for full res) (click image for full res) (click image for full res) As said, I'm using ZFS: (click image for full res) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alpenwasser 14 Posted October 20, 2013 Small Addendum On the Aquainlet Reservoir ] suggested I put up this sweet vid on how the reservoir is made. It should give you a pretty good impression of just how massive that thing really is, plus some good ol' machining pr0n is always nice IMO. :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Michael Kaiser 62 Posted October 20, 2013 Thanks alpenwasser I LMAO when people say there is no skill in machining parts! the skill level required to make that machine do all that would make my head explode. Some people have a head for that kind of thing, but you still have to put the time into learning the techniques just like any other skill we develop. There are a few people here that could make some serious Aluminum chips with that mill. I thought I was looking at FanBlades shop when I saw all the round stock aluminum. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alpenwasser 14 Posted October 20, 2013 Thanks alpenwasser I LMAO when people say there is no skill in machining parts! the skill level required to make that machine do all that would make my head explode. Some people have a head for that kind of thing, but you still have to put the time into learning the techniques just like any other skill we develop. There are a few people here that could make some serious Aluminum chips with that mill. I thought I was looking at FanBlades shop when I saw all the round stock aluminum. One of the most awesome machining videos I've seen so far was about milling an off-road motorbike helmet out of a solid block of alu in real-life size. Holy Poopadilly! :o And yes, correctly programming a milling machine or a lathe is no trivial matter. I once did an internship at a company which makes 35 mm and 20 mm AAA guns, among other things. They had this totally and utterly awesome CNC lathe, and even their chief mechanic said of himself he could maybe use 5% of its capabilities after two years of working with the thing. EDIT: Haha, I just noticed: The profanity filter on this forum can lead to some pretty hilarious results, nice job on that one! :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites