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alpenwasser

HELIOS - ASSEMBLED 2015-SEP-06 - (CL SMH10 | Black/Copper | EVGA SR-2 Black Edition)

79 posts in this topic

Pretty sick, man. I like it :D

Thanks man! :)

At the moment I'm doing lots of planning on the loop, plus I need to get some

more money for all those fittings I'm gonna need. :o

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Really like the sleeving work and appreciate all the effort your putting into this build. Thanks for the stitching tut vid too. Looking great all around. (Thanks for pointing out that Prometheus build on b-t as well, sad as it may be... great of you to keep a modders memory, and a dream alive)

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Interesting build copper seems to be a real trend at the moment. Makes for some really cool possibilities. Polished or treated always been a fan of SR 2 builds. I wanted to go for the Asus Z9PE 8/16 but just out of my budget. Looks like this is going to turn out pretty interesting. ty for sharing. Keep up the great work.....

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Really like the sleeving work and appreciate all the effort your putting into this build. Thanks for the stitching tut vid too. Looking great all around. (Thanks for pointing out that Prometheus build on b-t as well, sad as it may be... great of you to keep a modders memory, and a dream alive)

 

Thanks for stopping by and the kind words. The sleeving and lacing definitely took

some time, but sometimes you need to go that extra mile for the small details IMO

(if you have the time to spare, of course ;)).

Ever since first coming across that build I had been feeling that black/copper

itch, it just took me a while to get around to scratching it. :D

 

Interesting build copper seems to be a real trend at the moment. Makes for some really cool possibilities. Polished or treated always been a fan of SR 2 builds. I wanted to go for the Asus Z9PE 8/16 but just out of my budget. Looks like this is going to turn out pretty interesting. ty for sharing. Keep up the great work.....

 

I've always loved copper, ever since getting into W/C back in ~2001 or so, and

now I was finally able to do something about it in proper fashion. Being in college,

money has always been an issue with this build, so a 8/16 machine (or something

even beefier) wasn't really in my budget either.

 

My true (and utterly unrealistic) dream machine would have involved four Xeon E5

CPUs and a Supermicro quad-socket board for a nice 32 cores/64 threads of computing

goodness. :wub:

 

Completely ridiculous of course, seeing as the CPUs alone cost 3.6k USD a pop,

at least when new. Even if you can get them for a similarly good deal as I could get

mine, that's still 1.8k per CPU. So yeah... a literal dream machine.

 

It's not like I can complain of course, the SR-2 is still a pretty daayumn nice piece of kit

by most people's standards and well out of reach of most budgets, so even having

this beast and 12 cores makes me feel pretty daayumn warm inside (plus, the SR-2 looks

nicer than those green server boards). It's still going to be a few years until this beast

can't keep up anymore (which is just as welll, seeing as I won't be able to build another

rig like this for a while). :)

 

Anyway, </ramble> (I tend to do that.)

Thanks for the compliments! :)

 

Nice job man.  Great work with the copper.

Thanks! What can I say, it's an addiction. :D

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What / what did someone say something about Copper?

And if you had face book you could see it! he he knowing you, you have your ways around things? Generally when Jeremy put you up it brings more views to your build Log.

Copper On Brother!

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I can actually access the FB feed, I just can't subscribe and therefore don't get
notifications (nor can I comment). But I'm a bit of a paranoid guy when it comes

to my privacy, so I'm not yet desperate enough to sign up for FB. I am absolutely

dreading the day when having a FB account becomes a mandatory thing for having

a citizenship or something like that, which I don't think is too unrealistic of a proposition.
 
And yes, there shall be more coppery goodness! thumb.gif

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Question Time...

OK, question time: I have a slight dilemma when it comes to fittings, and while I won't

be making a decision right now I thought I'd bounce some ideas off of you guys... :)

The basic concept for the piping (at least at the moment) is this: I take some 16/12 mm

Copper pipe (already bought, impressively massive :D ), into which I will cut G1/4" female

threads, which I will then screw directly into fittings. The nice thing about this is that the

fittings are about as wide as the pipe is thick, which gives the hole affair a very sleek

look IMO, avoiding those compression-fitting-like bulky fittings which are usually used

for rigid tubing.

Now, there are a few options when it comes to fittings, none of which I'm perfectly happy

with yet. The original plan was to use Alphacool's shiny copper fittings. Unfortunately,

the only angles which are available from Alphacool in shiny copper are female/female

angles (leaving aside the dual 45° rotaries, which are female/male), namely these guys:

fittings--shiny-copper-90-1.jpeg

Keep in mind that I need the revolvable version, otherwise this will not work. To get

that male thread I need, I could use this:

fittings--shiny-copper-nipple-1.jpeg

As you can see, depending on loop complexity, this will become rather extravagant, requiring

somewhere between 40 and 60 nipples alone. I have about 20 angles in my loop at the current

stage of planning, which might still change a bit depending on what I can come up with, but

the general ballpark figure is about what I'll end up using most likely. I have actually ordered some

shiny copper fittings for testing purposes, and the finish is indeed very lovely, so I can't complain

about quality from what I've seen so far.

Alternatively, I have been thinking about using black fittings, since this might actually provide

a nice bit of contrast to the copper pipes (keep in mind that I will polish the copper tubing to

a mirror finish, so having black fittings might bring them out much more than having copper

fittings). Alphacool themselves actually make a dual-male 90° connector, but there's also these

guys from Bitspower, which will certainly be ridiculously expensive, but would be perfect from

a mechanical viewpoint:

fittings--bitspower-90-1.jpeg

There are also multiple-45° rotaries with dual-male endings. The big trouble with the Bitspower

fittings is their exorbitant price and actually getting them.

I'm really not sure at the moment which of these paths I will eventually end up going down,

so I thought I'd get some input from you folks to get the creative juices flowing. It will be end

of year at the earliest when I can progress to this stage anyway, so it's not a matter of great

urgency.

I can't promise to follow any and all advice, but I certainly would be grateful for input on this

matter. Thanks! :)

PS: I have actually asked Alphacool if they would manufacture a special edition shiny copper

with dual-male fittings, but no dice. They don't do special requests. :(

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I can actually access the FB feed, I just can't subscribe and therefore don't get

notifications (nor can I comment). But I'm a bit of a paranoid guy when it comes

to my privacy, so I'm not yet desperate enough to sign up for FB. I am absolutely

dreading the day when having a FB account becomes a mandatory thing for having

a citizenship or something like that, which I don't think is too unrealistic of a proposition.

 

And yes, there shall be more coppery goodness! thumb.gif

 

Breaking news Google Buys Sweden - All citizens are required to Like each others face book wall.  All violators will be restricted from posting until 6:30 pm local time!  That will teach them a lesson they won't soon forget.  

 

I'm assuming that these seal at the O ring like a normal fitting? and not by using a tapered thread like a plumbing fitting.  If you could make your own nipples it would be Ideal, but it's almost impossible to do  opposite threads in a short nipple like that. Buying that many factory nipples would be to much $. the dual males may be by far your cheapest way to go.  you need to put one of your proposed inside threaded fittings under a pressure test, before getting to much stock, unless you have done this before? one other crazy?  people are starting to sleeve tubing. If you came up with a mini sleeve at the joints that looks cool, you could get factory brass nipples and hide them in your unique mini sleeve.  I'm a lot of help! all you have to do Is invent something that has never been done before and it needs to look cooler that anything you've ever seen! that is your mission soldier - now get to it or we will restrict your posting until 6:30 pm local time!    

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Breaking news Google Buys Sweden - All citizens are required to Like each others face book wall.  All violators will be restricted from posting until 6:30 pm local time!  That will teach them a lesson they won't soon forget.

You know, that does sadly not sound utterly unrealistic. Maybe not with Sweden, but

with some banana republic. :lol:

I'm assuming that these seal at the O ring like a normal fitting? and not by using a tapered thread like a plumbing fitting.

Yes, they use an O-ring. The pipe itself is 16/12 mm (or ~0.63" OD and ~0.47" ID,

for you imperial unit afficionados ;)), so there is easily enough flat surface for

the O-ring to seal against. And with my neighbour and his lathe helping me cut the

pipes and cutting the threads I can be sure that all the cuts are proper and all the

threads are straight (not cut at an angle into the tubing, which might happen if you

do it by hand, and might compromise leak-proofness).

If you could make your own nipples it would be Ideal, but it's almost impossible to do  opposite threads in a short nipple like that.

Yeah, that would be a lot of very finicky work, with cutting all those threads

and grooves for the O-rings to sit in. Although I could of course make the nipple

a bit longer to make it easier to work with.

Buying that many factory nipples would be to much $.

Yup, about 170 USD worth of nipples. :lol:

the dual males may be by far your cheapest way to go.

That will depend on BP prices. I will need to order directly from BP,

(hoping that will work), so I'm not yet sure on prices. But Bitspower fittings

at the resellers I have found are actually more expensive than one Alphacool angle

plus two nipples. :lol:

you need to put one of your proposed inside threaded fittings under a pressure test, before getting to much stock, unless you have done this before?

Well, it's not like the pressures inside a water loop are that high, and as said

above the pipe I'm using is a pretty massive piece of kit, so I'm not really worried

about pressure and leaks. I will need to make sure the cut surfaces are clean so that

the O-rings can properly seal of course, that is for sure.

But with a wall thickness of 2 mm (~0.08") and an outer thread diameter of 12.8 mm

(~0.5") for G1/4" I'm still left with an intact pipe wall thickness of 1.6 mm (~0.063"),

so I'm not too worried. That's still twice as thick as standard 15 mm OD water pipes

(at least the ones I have here), which clock in at a wall thickness of 0.8 mm (~0.031"),

and pressures in those pipes are a lot higher than in a water loop.

Or are you worried about the threads being ripped out? Shouldn't be a problem, otherwise

I think the threads on my copper Raystorms would also be ripped out. :D

one other crazy?  people are starting to sleeve tubing.

Hm... :D

If you came up with a mini sleeve at the joints that looks cool, you could get factory brass nipples and hide them in your unique mini sleeve.  I'm a lot of help! all you have to do Is invent something that has never been done before and it needs to look cooler that anything you've ever seen! that is your mission soldier - now get to it or we will restrict your posting until 6:30 pm local time!

Got it! :D

The consensus on other forums seems to be on the black BP fittings, and personally

I think they might indeed look mighty fine next to some polished copper tubing, so

I'm going to see if I can get them from BP directly (no reseller seems to carry the

ones I need). But it will be end of year or later until I can place an order, there

are some large-ish bills coming up in Oct and Nov.

Thanks for the help! :D

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I was worried more about the inside threads and the o ring seal. I forgot about your neighbor. I'm down with the black also. I know it's hard to beleive. But you can have to much copper. Did I really just say that!

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I was worried more about the inside threads and the o ring seal. I forgot about your neighbor. I'm down with the black also. I know it's hard to beleive. But you can have to much copper. Did I really just say that!

Yeah I just really need to make sure that the cutting surface on the pipe's end

is clean so that the O-ring can do its job, but that shouldn't be too much of a

problem with the lathe and maybe a bit of filing/sanding afterwards.

And better have a little less copper that really stands out than just drown everything

in it and make it less special.

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Colour-Coordinating the RAM Blocks

We all know copper is goodness. But, like so many treasures on this planet, it should not occur

in overabundance so as to keep its specialness. While I do really like the Alphacool RAM blocks,

I was never perfectly happy with either version available. The POM top is just too much black

with not enough copper, while the plexi top puts so much copper on show that it renders it less

effective in the overall effect IMO.

So, over the past ten days or so, I've been working on fixing that. I forgot to buy normal primer,

so I just did three coats of etch primer. Not exactly by the book, but such is life. If this

had been a really prominend piece with a large surface area I would have gone out and bought

some normal primer, but for such a small piece this was adequate.

After that, I gave it five coats of black, sanding it down with various grits between 1200 and

5000 after each coat, depending on how bumpy the most recent surface was (it's been rather rainy

and cold here, not at all optimal conditions for painting, and I can't do it in the apartment

because we have clients coming by here, so it can't smell like paint :lol: ). Anyway, eventually

I got a nice and smooth black surface, to which I then added two layers of clear coat, sanding

and polishing them down as well. Unfortunately, one of the pieces slipped off the table today

and got its paint job banged up, so I need to redo the last stages on that. Hence, only one

piece in the last few shots.

Anyway, this is what the RAM blocks look stock, and with black screws I swapped out to reduce

the amount of copper:

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--ram-blocks--01--black-vs-cop

Masking the blocks:

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2013-10-29--01--ram-blocks-m

And in black, without the clear coat yet:

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2013-10-29--02--ram-blocks-b

Right after taking off the masking tape, you can see the edges are still very raw:

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2013-10-29--03--ram-blocks-r

Interestingly, the plexi tops are polished on the sides and the top side, but not the side

which comes into contact with the water, giving it a slightly milky appearance. Can't have

that of course. Left is the polished block (5000 grit paper, wet, then 10 000 polishing compound

and my trusty random orbital sander with a felt pad).

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2013-10-29--04--ram-blocks-t

The cold plate, clear coated and polished:

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2013-10-29--05--ram-blocks-c

And from another angle...

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2013-10-29--06--ram-blocks-c

And assembled:

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2013-10-29--07--ram-blocks-c

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2013-10-29--08--ram-blocks-c

The finish is not absolutely perfect. Part of that is simply due to the geometry of the

cold plate, which won't really allow proper sanding without taking off too much paint in

some parts, so no matter how many coats you apply, you're always going to take off just a

little too much at some corner or edge if you want it to be perfect everywhere else, meaning

you need to apply another coat and so on. If it were a huge flat panel it would probably

have been simpler in that regard.

Other reasons for imperfections are the rather cold and damp weather we've been having here,

which has just not really allowed the paint to flow ideally. Unfortunately, my dad has part

of his business at home, so there are clients coming by from time to time, which means I can't

paint in the comparably warm and dry apartment.

And lastly, of course, is simply my inexperience. I have done a bit of painting before, but

this was my first attempt at a proper flat gloss job. The bracket for the GPU block was a bit

of a different beast since I wanted to get that powder coat-like finish, which didn't require

as much sanding and polishing, obviously (but still took be a bit to get right, the droplets

had a tendency to be of very varying sizes, which was of no use of course).

But overall I'm still very happy with it considering it's the first time I've done something

like this. The imperfections are there, but you can't really see them unless there's really

good lighing coming in just from the right angle. I'm definitely looking forward to doing

some more of this in the future and honing my skills (yes, yes, I'm aware I could just give

it to a body shop or something like that, but where would the fun in that be).

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Yay, thank you! :)

 

 

I wanna see moarrr! lol this is looking awesome, the shiny copper is mesmerizing lol

Thanks! It really does pop a lot more with the black surrounding it. Plus, it now

has nice round corners just like the Raystorm blocks, which gives the whole setup

a pretty consistent and nice look IMO.

I will be ordering some copper screws to see how they look with the black paint,

maybe it'll be even better than with the black ones. I can't re-use the ones that

came with the block since those have been repurposed for the reservoir and the GPU

block (and shortened).

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You might consider flowing black paint in the lettering.  B Negative was talking about using a syringe with really thinned down paint, and just let it fill up the sunken lettering.  when the thinner evaporates the paint remains. Just trying to make more work for you my friend.  I think that would Enhance the contrast.  

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I'm not too much of a fan of the Alphacool logo, so I don't necessarily

want to make it stand out more. Plus, if I go with black fittings there

will be more contrast than there is now.

However, I have been seriously thinking about doing this on the Titan

block, but first things first. ;)

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