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alpenwasser

HELIOS - ASSEMBLED 2015-SEP-06 - (CL SMH10 | Black/Copper | EVGA SR-2 Black Edition)

79 posts in this topic

I could use your camera work today. I borrowed a camera that is a lot smarter than I am! I'll just take a million pictures and something is bound to come out right. 

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Ah yes, I'm familiar with that problem. Did quite a bit of reading before getting

more or less a handle on things.

There's a thread on OCN about this, maybe start there.

Additionally, you could search on Youtube (or just the web in general) for product

photography tutorials, since this is pretty much what you're trying to do.

There are some pretty good photography channels on Youtube if I recall correctly,

you could also learn pretty much all you need to know about the basics (lenses,

ISO, f-stops, exposure time and all that good stuff).

EDIT:

What camera do you have?

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I could use your camera work today. I borrowed a camera that is a lot smarter than I am! I'll just take a million pictures and something is bound to come out right. 

 

You are not alone...and i suck at photography.

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You are not alone...and i suck at photography.

It is a very expansive subject. I would by no means call myself good at photographing,

I'm just better than I used to be (and am striving to continue to improve). I feel

pretty comfortable with my (well, my dad's, strictly speaking ;)) camera by now, but

there's still lots more to learn. Next thing on my list is improving lighting (as in:

its style and creative use, not just its intensity) and composition, up until now I

haven't really had a systematic approach to that and been relying more on intuition

and luck.

In the end, photography is like many other things: If you want to get good at it, you'll

need to do research and improve your skills via practice, no way around that really.

And it's a lot of work if you intend to be thorough. :D

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Unfortunately I only have the camera thru the weekend, but I'm getting some good pic's so far.  I made the mistake of shooting some in Raw form and Image shack said NO/ NO I'm getting ready to do a second shoot. The good thing is I'm able to get better close up's than my point and shoot, which isn't a bad camera for what it is, But it's not like an SLR. Any way I'm having fun doing it, but sorting thru 1000 plus pictures might make me pull my hair out? ha ha thanks bro  

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You might be able to convert the RAW images to something more useful with ImageMagick.

I've been using it to edit and convert the *.CR2 images (Canon's RAW format) from

my Canon. I'm not sure if it can do everything, but it's been pretty useful for me

so far.

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Saved that! I knew I talked to you for a reason, besides the fact that your a great guy.  Getting some good shots this morning. I had the image quality turned up to high.  I got a clue when I tried to post a pic as a test and I came out small and looked really bad. the pictures looked great on my end, but they didn't upload right? I reset to more normal settings and things are looking better I think? ha ha  they say Ignorance is bliss, but I'm not so sure?

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Sorry for the late reply, had a case of fever/headaches/sniffles and such.

Got it from a local retailer (digitec.ch), but that was quite a while ago.

You could probably still get them on eBay or via EVGA's B-Stock shop if

you needed one yourself.

And thanks for the compliments. :)

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I love the way this is turning out I wish I had the budget for things like this but I am 17 and don't have a job officially yet. But still save every penny for my three builds I'm doing right now.

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I love the way this is turning out I wish I had the budget for things like this but I am 17 and don't have a job officially yet. But still save every penny for my three builds I'm doing right now.

Thanks, much appreciated! :)

To be honest, I'm not exactly swimming in money either (college

student), this build has been mostly financed with lots and lots

of patience (i.e. saving up) and being frugal in the rest of my

life. I'm actually still saving up for the next stage, but life

keeps getting in the way. It will get done at some point though. :D

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Finally, Progress!

Yay, it's not dead yet!

Basically, the build has been stuck on pause for almost two

years simply because life kept interfering, primarily with

my finances. I had planned to finally do the copper tubing

this summer, but then I needed to replace my laptop this

spring and had some HDD issues in my server, so again the

funds just weren't there to do the copper loop the way I had

intended.

So I decided to switch plans and do it with Norprene for the

time being. I'll hopefully be alive for a while yet, so at

some point in some build I should be able to still realise

the concept I've made for the copper tubing, but for the

time being, Norprene it is. I didn't really feel like going

with acrylic since pretty much everyone is doing that these

days (not that it's bad), plus I quite like the look of

Norprene and think it fits nicely with the theme of the

build.

Also, I finally made some cables for the second GPU (which

I'd bought last August actually, but couldn't use because I

didn't have time to make the cables :D ).

Anyway, first things first: Got myself some pretty

affordable silver fittings, painted them in copper.

Pics!

Since I needed to deblock my CPUs, took a look at the thermal

paste imprints:

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2015-09-03--02--cpu0-imprint

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2015-09-03--03--cpu1-imprint

Fittings:

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2015-09-03--01--fittings-sil

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2015-09-03--04--fittings-cop

Also got myself two active back plates from AC. The second

GPU is actually a 780, not a Titan (no need for SLI in

BOINC), so the active cooling is pretty pointless, but I

went for symmetry. As usual for AC, there's quite a bit of

steel. Copperised that too.

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2015-09-03--05--gpu-active-b

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2015-09-03--06--gpu-active-b

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2015-09-03--07--gpu-active-b

Finally, the current loop layout on the motherboard tray.

The entire thing as it is here weighs in at a lofty 9.3 kg

(that's about 20 lbs for the imperialists :P ).

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2015-09-03--08--motherboard-

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2015-09-03--09--motherboard-

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2015-09-03--10--motherboard-

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2015-09-03--11--active-backp

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2015-09-03--12--gpus.jpeg

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2015-09-03--13--gpu-terminal

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2015-09-03--14--heatpipes-de

Also, painted the outside of the Raystorm brackets with copper

for a bit of added coppery contrast:

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2015-09-03--15--raystorm.jpe

That's it for now. Should have pics of the rig in an

assembled state in the not too distant future. It might not

be what I originally envisioned, but I'm very happy to get

this into a presentable state finally. :)

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I'd utter out a lot of things that will get blocked by the cussing bot here. First. second time today I saw a modder take the time to preserve his/her fittings in some form of protective fassion. Second, I so love the your blk to copper style theme, ASUS just released mobos (images only so far as I know) that have this bronse/copper look. Beautiful work. better yet to see you get excited talking to people here about it all. Inclusion matters. What makes a site grow... tending too.

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I'd utter out a lot of things that will get blocked by the cussing bot here. First. second time today I saw a modder take the time to preserve his/her fittings in some form of protective fassion. Second, I so love the your blk to copper style theme, ASUS just released mobos (images only so far as I know) that have this bronse/copper look. Beautiful work. better yet to see you get excited talking to people here about it all. Inclusion matters. What makes a site grow... tending too.

 

Haha, thanks!

Getting off all the O rings for painting was a bit of a finicky undertaking, and drilling the holes into the wood for the fittings took a while too, but I felt that if I'm spending a significant part of my money on this I might as well do it right.

And yeah, chatting about our builds is why we're here (well, at least part of it), so thanks for that too. :D

 

The copper looks 100% Legit, I love the look!

He, thanks Bill, much appreciated. That might be because the paint is actual copper. Copper particles in an expoxy matrix, that is. When you have it next to an unpolished piece of copper, they really look about identical.

The difference between the paint and proper piece of copper comes when you polish the copper. The tone of color will then shift in the copper piece, whereas the paint can get glossy if you clearcoat it, but you can't get it to change its color tone (since the small particles aren't just magically going to align to reflect the light in the same way and form a perfect surface).

In case anyone's interested, this is the paint:

http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B000QB30FA/ref=s9_simh_gw_p60_d4_i1?pf_rd_m=A3JWKAKR8XB7XF&pf_rd_s=desktop-2&pf_rd_r=0P9X5ZK93J98F8NJ394V&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=585296387&pf_rd_i=desktop

This might also be an alternative:

http://www.amazon.de/1x-400ml-Wekem-Kupfer-Spray-WS84/dp/B0048SS5LG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1441360220&sr=8-1&keywords=kupferspray+wekem

(sorry, couldn't find it on amazon.com, but this should get those who are interested started)

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Assembled!

Finally managed to put it together. :)

Hit a bit of a snag with my plan for the power delivery. I have a plug at the back

of the case to which I've soldered a cable which then goes to the PSU via a 90-degree

angled plug. Unfortunately the plug I'd bought turned out to be a bit too big and I

could no longer mount the radiator. I could have raised the PSU, but don't have the

correct standoffs at hand, so instead I got very lucky and found a molded 90-degree

angled connector which is more compact. It goes to the other side, but the cable can

be bent around in a generous loop and it sill works. Disaster averted.

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2015-09-06--01--plug-too-big

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2015-09-06--02--plugs.jpeg

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2015-09-06--03--plug-fits.jp

The drain is the usual principle: T-connector, ball valve. However, in order to be

able to hide it away inside the case, the lever on the valve actually needs to be

in the open position, hence the additional stop fitting on the valve.

Draining the system works pretty well, I get most of the fluid out (it uses about

1.5 litres it seems.

)

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2015-09-06--04--drain-out.jp

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2015-09-06--05--drain-in.jpe

The process for closing it all up is a bit cumbersome, but such is life. I have to

unmount the other PSU cover in order to be able to get the plug's side's cover in,

then remount them both. I've mounted some additional thumb screws to the covers to

that I can hold on to them while bolting them to the case. Works pretty well.

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2015-09-06--06--drain-closin

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2015-09-06--07--drain-sealed

The passthrough from the pump to the back side and the bottom radiators. The thing

with a wire is an inline temperature sensor.

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2015-09-06--08--bottom-passt

From the bottom radiators we go up to the top radiator via a passthrough fitting.

I had to enlargen the hole in the case by about 20 mm in one direction so that it

all fits, otherwise the fitting on the radiator's side collides with the rad.

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2015-09-06--09--top-passthro

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2015-09-06--10--top-passthro

To give you an impression of the trouble I go through for some of the pics, this

is the lighting setup for the picture above. :D

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2015-09-06--11--photo-setup.

Tethering the Canon 600D (Rebel T3 or something like that for those who have those

model numbers) to my laptop (Linux) via Darktable works very nicely, pretty comfy to

work with. :)

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2015-09-06--12--darktable.jp

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2015-09-06--13--top-rad-port

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2015-09-06--14--top-fans.jpe

The reservoir has an inline tube to bring the feed below the coolant's surface level.

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2015-09-06--15--reservoir-to

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2015-09-06--16--res-feed.jpe

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2015-09-06--17--pump-feed.jp

I'm not yet happy with how this looks, will be redoing the loop at least in this

area. But I need to ponder a bit first on how to go about this, and now that it's

up and running and the semester is about to start again I'm not in too big of a

hurry.

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2015-09-06--18--pumps.jpeg

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2015-09-06--19--gpu-cables.j

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2015-09-06--20--gpu-cables-c

The black painted brackets for the GPUs. 780 is the top one, Titan on the bottom.

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2015-09-06--21--gpu-brackets

The fan controller, still with the copper plate from way back when, although it

has a bit of oxidation by now. I tried clearcoating it to protect it from oxidation,

but it didn't look right no matter what I tried so eventually I took the coat off

again and just accepted the copper as it is. :)

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2015-09-06--22--fan-controll

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2015-09-06--23--fan-controll

The cabling behind the fan controller. Not too tidy I will admit. :D

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2015-09-06--24--fan-controll

The bottom fans are connected to a single channel on the fan controller. One of

the fans has had its tach wire soldered to one of the six pin connector's pins

so that I can get an rpm reading.

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2015-09-06--25--bottom-fan-p

Bottom fans with a studio light on the other side of the case:

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2015-09-06--26--bottom-fans.

Some overview shots:

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2015-09-06--27--overview-fro

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2015-09-06--28--overview-fro

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2015-09-06--29--overview-bac

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2015-09-06--30--top-view.jpe

And with the rest of the computers in our household (except the server, which I

couldn't take down for the pic).

(click image for full res)

aw--helios--2015-09-06--31--family.jpeg

I'll be doing some temp measurements in the next few days and will give an update

on that when I have the data.

So long,

-aw

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The work log and the modding are both really amazing! :) I'm out of words....

 

 

Very nice man!  I like the neoprene tubing look, and your cable lacing always looks great.

Thanks guys, much appreciated! :)

As a small amendment: This is the concept for the copper tubing I came up with. Take a

16/12 tube, cut a G1/4" thread into it, screw in the fitting of your choice.

I actually think you did a video on the idea with acrylic or PETG tubing, not sure

anymore, so the idea seems to have been thought of by at least two parties independently. :D

Anyway, these are from a test I did:

aw--helios--2015-09-07--01--copper-tube-

aw--helios--2015-09-07--02--copper-tube-

What I like about the concept is that you don't get any bulky compression-like

fittings, the tubes are almost flush with the fitting's outer edge. Downside is

that you can't really bend 16/12 tubing, so you need an angle for every curve

you want to make, which means lots of dual-rotary, dual-male threaded fittings.

I've only found those I need from Bitspower, which is why this would be so very

expensive.

Still, some day maybe...

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That is sweet. Jesse and I did a video where we threaded the inside of acrylic tubing, and it worked out alright. I know that I've read of a few people trying it, but it's definitely a little tricky. Hadn't thought about doing it with copper, but I bet the 12mm ID works better than the 1/2" ID we were using. Only certain fittings would grab in 1/2" tubing, some didn't have big enough threads, oddly enough.

Is it not possible to do with anything like 14/12 copper? (Being in the US, I have no idea what sizes are available in metric over there)

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That is sweet. Jesse and I did a video where we threaded the inside of acrylic tubing, and it worked out alright. I know that I've read of a few people trying it, but it's definitely a little tricky. Hadn't thought about doing it with copper, but I bet the 12mm ID works better than the 1/2" ID we were using. Only certain fittings would grab in 1/2" tubing, some didn't have big enough threads, oddly enough.

Is it not possible to do with anything like 14/12 copper? (Being in the US, I have no idea what sizes are available in metric over there)

Yeah, 12 mm ID works very well. The tapping drill size for G1/4" is 11.80 mm, so

12 mm works out very nicely and for the purposes of water cooling those missing 0.2 mm

are probably not going to matter much (at least not that I could see in my tests).

14/12 might be a bit tricky, not sure. The major diameter of G1/4" is 13.157 mm, which

is only 0.843 mm less than the OD of that tubing, and would leave you with a wall

strength of 0.4215 mm at the thinnest places (approx. 0.017"). Well, probably a bit less

even, since I reckon the inner thread of the tubing will have a bit of wiggle room on

top of the major diameter, otherwise things would probably get stuck when you try to screw

something into that thread (it's not like we're talking about seriously precise set

screws here). Might be a bit on the thin side, though I haven't tested it I will admit.

Oh, the data for G1/4" I have from wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_Standard_Pipe

If you can find 16/12 tubing over here, you should able be able to find 14/12. Even the

16/12 isn't exactly standard issue, had to go to a special metal dealer for that, can't

get it on my local DIY store. Also not exactly cheap, 70 CHF for 2 meters (~70 USD these

days). :D

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The US standard Copper tube Is hotdog down a hallway-ville for 1/4 thread. They make a 1/4" taper solder fitting that fits G1/4 close enough to work, however.

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The US standard Copper tube Is hotdog down a hallway-ville for 1/4 thread. They make a 1/4" taper solder fitting that fits G1/4 close enough to work, however.

Ah, I see. I'm not actually sure what our standard copper tubing diameters are

here (i.e. what's usually used for plumbing). I saw two sizes when I last went

to my local DIY shop, but didn't check the diameters. Smaller one might have been

something like 8/6 mm, bigger one maybe 12/10 or something like that, though take

that with a grain of salt. :D

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