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  1. Last week
  2. Hi guys here my new project a scratch build hand made it's hard mod SPONSORS ARE WELCOMED enjoy! Here the project starting with aluminium bars to build the frame.
  3. To keep on putting it all together, I started on the switches. Like I said before, I painted the backs black so they'd look better, even though you should never see them. And wired the micro switches up right, cause you know, I'd like them to work. And mounted. Also added some rubber feet to the base. Fancy shot of the set screw before I tightened it down and the wires popping through the mounting bracket. The switch cables got cut down and sleeved in the 'Tree Frog' paracord. Note to self, oversize the hole next time so the paracord fits without a fight. And then I wanted to see if they worked. Oooh, that green is a bit too intense. But the switches work, let's give it some buttons. Some spacers, some super glue, and some patience... Looking at it now, I realize why the reset looks so wrong, it needs to be rotated 180 to match the angles of the grain direction. Should help it blend in better. Dang it! I'm tempted to walk across the room and just swap it around. Power button came out super nice though. So there we go... feces! Zip ties! Gotta change those out. Found some leather cord I had planned on using on another project. Performs the same task, doesn't look like a zip tie. With that done, the only thing really left that bugged me was the green LED on the fan. Unfortunately, this is a lower range MSI board and only does 16 colors on the RGB header...Lame! But as luck would have it, MSI's yellow plus the CM fan equals the right color of green??????? I don't get it, but sometimes, you just go with it. I think this means all that's left are the finals, so til next time! Thanks for following along!
  4. Update! Time for the next to last update for this project. Im currently doing the cables for the build which is basically the last thing to do. Since the last update a couple of things has happend. All of the parts have been painted and in the end i went with a copper base with a white crackle paint on top and it looks really good :). The LEDs and power button has now been mounted aswell. Next update will be the finished build!
  5. And then there was the wiring. Like I said before, I wanted to try something different so I laid the pass throughs in a leaf pattern. To stick with the color and theme of the pattern, I found a 550 paracord in 'Tree Frog', it's a color shifting weave with yellow, green and blue, and it matches up pretty well. Then it was just a matter of sleeving and pulling all the wires through. One by one. After splitting up the GPU and 24 pin sets, it looks pretty cool. Even kind of looks like a leaf. My plan has worked! After getting all the runs cut to length and hooked up. The zip ties will have to go, but they hold it all in place now. And the front with the 8 pin as well. And to do something with the fan, I tore back into this. I've already stolen some of the screws from this for my cooler, now I'm gonna take a fan. It's a 10mm thicker fan so my tolerances are closer, but it looks soooo much better. And I have LED's if I want. Thanks for following along!
  6. For the 20th birthday I decide to give a gift to my nephew, do the restyling pc ! Voglio dare una nota di colore anche all'interno del case, per fare questo devo preparare un cavo che prenda da tensione di 12V dalla scheda madre che andranno ad alimentare la striscia led. Il connettore delle ventole della scheda madre sono perfetti uso il connettore del floppy grattando via un pezzettino di plastica ed รจ perfetto entra alla perfezione, devo solo cambiare l'ordine dei cavi. For the 20th birthday I decide to give a gift to my nephew, do the pc again!
  7. Teamgroup provided me this lovely RAM and SSD https://www.teamgroupinc.com/en/product/delta-rgb-ddr4 https://www.teamgroupinc.com/en/product/delta-r-rgb-ssd
  8. First of all, I would like to thank Thermaltake and Teamgroup for making this project possible!
  9. Hi everyone! For those of you who doesn't know me, I'm Claricce of TechLin. School is off! And this is the perfect timing for another Case mod.
  10. So, yeah, no AM4 bracket...dangit! Can we work something out? Luckily, the cooler has a pretty straightforward mounting design using the 4 holes on the plate to connect the different style brackets. So modify or make a bracket, simple enough. Now we just need to figure out the backplate. I originally had a Corsair H110 on this board, so that's a good place to start. Do some eyeballin' Get some pieces of 6061 Al cut out and mounted to the block. I think this is 2mm stock, good and stiff. Pretty them up a bit so it doesn't look like a total hack job. And the hard part, finding some screws to hold it down. I think these are from the 2011 mount for another CM cooler I had, but I tried so many different screws, I could totally be making that up. Naturally I also had to grind down the posts on the Corsair backplate to get them to work because of course I did. I wouldn't call it exactingly perfect, but it does the job. And it didn't fall off! But what is up with that fan? And then on the base to make sure that all looks good. And with the side panels to make sure everything fits inside. But that MB tray, it's killing me. Paint doesn't look good and didn't work anyways. Sandblasting looked OK, but just OK. I've brushed so many pieces of aluminum, along with everyone else, over the years that it's kind of old hat. Classy, but we've covered that ground many times. Engine turned...doesn't really go with the build. But I do like the idea of patterning the Al, so let's just grind some wispy patterns on it and see how it goes. Yeah, that's the ticket. I like the random, wispy grass look. It's a nature themed build so it works. And it's easy and fun to do at home kids! Next up, my not favoritest part, wiring. Thanks for following along!
  11. With the base put together, I could route my wires from the switches to the board and get the mounting of the plates figured out. Nothing spectacular, but drilling that hole trying to hit the channel on the bottom was one of those "Why don't we measure this one more time to make sure" moments. And some screws to hold the plates. I'll be painting these black later. Now some tung oil. I'm liking this. One more thing to do before hardware is to paint my aluminum side panel. I sanded it, primed it with etching primer, and then hit it with a green that I think is an Infinity color. Or Mazda. Something like that. Whatever company, it's a color that matched my epoxy mix and doesn't photograph well in my paint room. It's a 2 stage, needing a base and clear. I prefer single stage cause it's less work, but it turned out nice with that clear on it. And now we can hardware! Slapping the PSU in. You might notice the sandblasted finish on the tray and bracket. I was having a hard time deciding what to do besides paint and tried blasting it. It was a great way to get the paint off and is a unique finish, but I'm not sold on it just yet for this case. Then the drives. And the MB and processor. My original plan was to use this. Asrock Z87 with a i5 4670K. I had it, it works, it's a perfectly capable system, and it's killing me that it's just laying around my house. My goal was to build a case that it didn't matter the hardware that was in it, And that's why the side panel was the focus. Give some peeks at the hardware, but make the case the center of attention. But... I just can't do it. Something inside me just couldn't deal with it not matching, or at least being complimentary. My girlfriend called it a "bit Christmas-y". LOL! So I dragged out my little InWin 301/Ryzen build. It will give up it's parts so this mod can live. So this is what I ended up with. MSI Bazooka 350M with a Ryzen 1700X, 8GB HyperX Predator DDR4, and a 250GB HyperX Predator M.2 drive. Bit of an upgrade. And the M.2 already has a cover that I made for it, so time saved. It's mATX and the tray is set up for ATX, but it's not really a thing looks wise with the vertical mount GPU, since that would cover the bottom half of an ATX anyways. Just an extra screw hole to add to the tray. But then I ran into a problem. I was thinking ahead about possibly entering this in the scratch side of the Cooler Master World Series, hence the CM PSU, but I also wanted to use a CM cooler. On the scratch side of the contest, your build just has to use a CM part and the PSU takes care of that, but for me, if I can use a CM cooler too, then it's more in the spirit of the thing. And it's more of a challenge. Anyone can swap out some fans to a different brand, but designing around a cooler to make sure it fits in with everything? That can be a bit more work. As I was about to find out. Enter the cooler...the Cooler Master Geminii M4. Had to do a little hunting since it seems like this is on its way out, but I really wanted this particular downdraft cooler. The M4 is shorter than the Geminii M5 and doesn't have a red LED fan. I've already said no to red, and height is definitely a consideration, it's a tight spot. The other options were a stock style or CM's UFO/LED/magic mushroom looking cooler, and just no. But this came with it's own problems. Having ordered it for a Z87/4670K combo, I didn't pay attention to the fact that it's not, you guessed it, AM4 compatible. Well that's gonna be an issue, but I'll tackle it next time. Thanks for following along!
  12. Thanks! They really should, it's an occasion.
  13. Congratulations on a successful de-molding. Hallmark should make a card for that.
  14. And I'm back! I mean, I didn't go anywhere, but I'm back working on this mod. It's nice enough weather now that things will actually cure in my basement so, let's make up for lost time. When I left off last time, I was cleaning up the mold from my de-molding the mold process. Totally doing that differently if I do that again. But, I got the sides cleaned up and filled any holes with some gelcoat and sanded it all nice and smooth. Then I was ready to try my layup. First things first, wax and plenty of PVA to make sure this thing comes out easier than last time. And what am I laying up you ask. I'm starting with a layer of 3K carbon twill, then two layers of Kevlar twill and then a layer of carbon fiber veil. Why this mix? Why Kevlar? What the heck is veil??? Well this is a deep rabbit hole with a lot of interesting stuff, but lets just go for the overview. Ok, lets start at the CF twill. We all know CF is light and stiff which makes it good for this shell, unfortunately it doesn't do so well with impacts. Hit it with a hammer, run it into a car at 40mph, it breaks. That's kind of a problem, and that's where the Kevlar comes in. Bullet proof vest right? Yep, and that's sort of the reason I'm using it. It is super tough and resists impacts. Not that it won't break, the epoxy in the matrix will break apart but the Kevlar is stupid tough and will hold it all together. Think safety glass, it shatters and breaks, but it doesn't go flying everywhere. So if something bad were to happen with the shell, it would break, but you wouldn't wind up with chunks of carbon fiber flying around being all stabby. Kind of important. And then there is the veil, it's a super thin weave that doesn't really add to the structure, but holds epoxy. This makes it a good sanding layer over my Kevlar since Kevlar is a PIA to cut and sand and just frays anytime you get into it. I would have prefered to do the layup with another layer of CF instead of the veil, but I shorted myself on materials. Being able to sand the veil, I can go back and add a layer later. Starting off with the CF. Then the Kevlar. I didn't get a shot of the veil because at this point I was in a hurry. I decided to try vacuum bagging the layup, which is exactly like it sounds. Put it in a bag and suck the air out. This helps to compress the layers, pull out any bubbles, and pull out any extra epoxy, so you wind up with the lightest and strongest part possible. And since it was my first time trying this, well let's just say next time will be a lot smoother. So in the bag you go with a layer of material that is permeable and doesn't stick to the epoxy, and a layer of fill that lets the air flow out and sucks up the extra epoxy. Then, in my case, spend 30 minutes reworking your vacuum pump to work with this set up and another 45 finding all the leaks in the seals, and suck all the air out. I never did get that thing totally sealed, but it turned out pretty good for a first try. The inside was a bit rough with the veil giving me some folds and pockets, but I'll take care of that next update. Thanks for following along and thanks to my sponsor:
  15. Earlier
  16. With the wood side of the case taken care of, it was time to work a little on the aluminum side. With how the panel was going to fit, it needed to go around my PSU bracket. It's not really a jigsaw spot so I wound up giving the dremel some work. Spot on. With that done and me changing up what I was going to do with the switches, that panel was ready for prep and paint, so we'll put that on the back burner for now. Speaking of switches, I needed to figure out some, and also a base for the case. Seeing as I had plenty of walnut left over and that was a major theme of the case, I decided that a base of walnut would be perfect and I'd work some switches into it. So first I had to cut out the base and some pieces to hold my tray, and the rest of the computer for that matter, so I didn't want to skimp on them. Nothing crazy, just some simple arcs to get the tray up high enough in the center to clear the base and not interfere with my side panels. I'm going to use some dowels to join these to the base to give them more strength so a little bump won't knock them loose. And then the switches. I got these little micro switches to use on Deep Blue but never used them. So it's fitting that I'm going to use them with part of a fiberglass panel that I made for Deep Blue and didn't use. I knew what I was doing last year, I was just ahead of myself. This is all a fine start, but what about buttons. Well...wood. I tried to match the grain by cutting the buttons out of the scrap left over from cutting out the base. After it was all said and done, it turned out pretty close, doesn't really show here. So here's the plan, lets see if it works. And yeah, I totally wired the switches wrong. I figured keeping my momentum going was more important that getting them right, I could always come back, pop the switches up, and re-do them. And that's what I wound up doing. First, I had to chisel out some holes for the buttons. And then on the bottom of the base, route a channel for the wiring to the tray mount and give myself an inset for the fiberglass panel and another panel to cover all the wiring. Perfect. Just gonna need some spacers to get the buttons flush. I hope it works. Now I just want to test fit the tray before I go gluing things together. What did I do with that thing? Oh yeah, I drilled a bunch of holes in it. I wanted to do something interesting with the wiring since most of the internals aren't very flashy. And since I very strongly dislike the super precise wiring look, I decided to go the other direction. How about spacing them all out and letting them pick up and carry the leaf motif? So that's the 37 holes for the 24 pin connector plus the 8 and 6 for the GPU, spaced at 5mm. And then just another 8 with nothing fancy for the CPU power. This wiring job is gonna suck, but look really cool....hopefully. I also threw in some slots for the I/O header and SATA ports, big enough for room to grow if the need arises. I painted the tray and components up basic black because I needed them there, but wasn't looking for them to really be attention grabbers. And then test fit everything to make sure I had it all lined up the way I wanted before glue up. The tray sits in some slots and I drilled and threaded some holes for set screws to hold it all together. Everything turned out pretty good, except for the paint. Even with a few days curing, you couldn't handle it without leaving prints and the slots just peeled the paint right off. Grrrr, gonna have to do something about that. But then some routing, some sanding and some gluing. And I have a base. Next time, I'll put all this stuff together again, but for real, LOL! Thanks for following along!
  17. Long time since last update, will try and make up for it with a longer one then usual ๐Ÿ˜€ First of I finished all the wood working and added the corner pieces that will be holding the front and back pieces in place. Not a single screw will be used for the wood frame itself its all held together with wood joints so it was really solid even before applying glue. Here is plexi for the side windows. This is what it looked like when it was all clamped in for the glue to dry. I really like how the bends turned out with the different layers. Front and back are made of some spare material I found, actually have no idea what its called. But Its made up of some kind of plastic in the middle and very thin aluminum on both sides, that made if very easy to machine with wood tools. Made a wooden jig to help with cutting the holes for the front intake fans, and it worked really well. And thanks Mnpctech for the awesome template ๐Ÿ‘
  18. The "handles" is the biggest similarity, always loved that case so might have been a bit of a inspirtion ๐Ÿ˜‰
  19. I think I snagged them off a picture from MSI's website or off a picture of the box, I can't remember. Put the pic in a graphics editor and trace the shape. Or really, they're pretty simple shapes, you could probably get close freehanding them and no one would be the wiser.
  20. Hi. How did you go about getting hold of the krait gaming claw marks for printing? I would like to add these to my custom gpu backplate? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks
  21. Gettting some lighting action :D heres a gif (if it doesn't work, There will be a link) https://imgur.com/06VpG6I Static image of the lights Rearview of the new wiring setup Getting ready to put the ASUS RYUJIN AIO in Extremely close to being done. Just got to fill a few gaps near the components and get it mounted to the wall. I'll be back soon!
  22. Thanks! I can't take credit for mother nature's work.
  23. Nice work! Color of the wood grain is amazing.
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