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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/04/12 in all areas

  1. 15 points
    OK, I'm in a foul mood, so I throw out royal edicts and stuff. Politically correct isn't my thing, either. We've been fairly lax on the rules, but we on the verge of becoming THAT ONE SITE where the project logs are dominated with posts filled only with hot air. I've seen logs that don't even have a PLAN lately.:( This stuff chases off potential enthusiasts. Imagine skimming through threads for 30 minutes and finding nothing but, "Imma gonna, but I don't know how." PLEASE do not start a thread here until you have some actual progress to show, pictures, or have even bought a camera. No one is going to "Watch this space," for months because you are going to do, "something awesome." Save the dreams, butterflies, and pixie dust for somewhere else. Here we are interested only in blue smoke, power tools, and metal shavings.
  2. 4 points
    Apologies about the forums being offline. Hopefully we're back up for the long haul now.
  3. 4 points
    Hello there ya mod monkeys!! Well I have been busy lately! Finished up Grey Matter, started my Fractal Design build, and also started a 4x2CNC build. I took the case feet from my Fractal build and moved them to this project because I have a good idea for them. I want to thank the companies so far supporting this build, I appreciate it! About this project: Again I was looking into color schemes that are not often worked with, I wanted to do something unique and creative like Grey Matter, so I decided to use a ROG theme!:thumb: Haha just playing! I decided on a polished copper and white theme, I am calling it Cyprus 29. I came up with the name because the first copper mines in the world were located on the island of Cyprus and 29 is the atomic number on the periodic table for copper. I have some copper sheet, white paint and acrylic, polished copper finish paint, polished copper vinyl wrap. I will be using white Primochill revolvers with 1/2" copper tubing and white pastel liquid. Its going to be an interesting theme and a lot of fun to do! Here will be the compiled list of components: <> PC Components: [x] Case : Cooler Master HAF 935 [x] PSU : Cooler Master V750w Semi-modular Gold Plus [x] CPU: Intel [x] MoBo: Asus z97 Sabertooth [x] RAM: [x] GPU: 2x Evga 780 GTX [x] SSD: 2x Corsair Force LX 256Gb - Raid 0 [x] Optical: <> Water Cooling System: [x] 2x Handmade acrylic waterfall reservoirs [x] Primochill 1/2"OD PETG Tubing [x] 15x Primochill Nickel Plated Bulkhead [x] 50x Primochill Revolver Fittings - Straight Knurl [x] Primochill Intensifier Sicle Colors [x] Swiftech Apogee XL - Clear - CPU Block [x] 2x Swiftech Komodo-NV GPU Block [x] Swiftech 240mm Radiator [x] Swiftech 360mm Radiator [x] Swiftech PWM MCP35x2 Pump - With Heatsink <> Mod Parts: [x] 1/8" white acrylic sheet [x] 1/8" clear acrylic sheet [x] 3/8" aluminum clockwerk case cubes [x] 3mm white LED [x] Mod/Smart white MaxCord paracord [x] 2x Mod/Smart 20 light LED board Parts bought from MNPCtech.com M3 PC Radiator screws. PC Modders Mesh Sheets. Rubber U-channel panel edge and window trim. Alright. With all that out of the way, lets take a look at this beast of a case. First thing I did was get it out of the box and tear some of it down to start planning the component orientation. Thanks again to Cooler Master North America for the case! In case you missed them on he Black Frost Fractal build, here are the beast mode case feet from Casefeet.com. I am going to paint them copper and make white rings for them. One gripe I found about the case is these glued in filters, they are a paint when it comes to modding. So I proceeded to razor them all out. For the component orientation I decided on, I will be using the small case on the bottom as a pedestal. and I also flipped the case so the back door is now the front window so I can flip the motherboard 270°. then I did a little prep work and painted the mesh. I painted it a bright white and the plastic panels will be painted with polished copper. Ill have some of that next update. First I scuffed the mesh then washed it off. Let it dry then tack cloth it. Then I sprayed paint adhesive then the paint follow by clear coat. I am using acrylic lacquer paint now as opposed to acrylic enamel in the past. Well that is what I have for now. I should have an update at least once a week, I try for every Monday. I hope you enjoyed it and are excited as I am! Talk to you all very soon!
  4. 4 points
    Mod your own PC with supplies from Mnpctech! ] OPEN TO ALL COUNTRIES! Steps to enter Giveaway of Fractal-Design Define R4 Case Mod by MNPCTECH 1. Register as new member on The Mod Zoo Forums, HERE 2. Reply to this post with description of what you would do if you owned this case? ..and when you have time, please "Like" Tokyoidaho fanpage You have until Midnight, Central Time on 5/15/14. I will announce the winner's name on 5/16/14 I'm giving away this modified Fractal-Design Define R4 Mid Tower case. The theme was inspired by the band, Tokyoidaho. I'm a long time fan of the craftsmanship of the Fractal-Design cases and their prices are easy on the wallet. Fractal was kind enough to send me their White Define R4 mid tower to modify for this Giveaway. The Define R4 retails for very reasonable $89.99 on Newegg Fractal Design Define R4 White case, Only $99 at Newegg The Fractal Design Define R4 is the midi tower in the Define Series of computer cases offering minimalistic and stunning Scandinavian design fused with maximum sound reduction, configurability and functionality. The Define R4 side and front door panels are fitted with dense, sound-absorbing material making it a benchmark for noise reduction. Moreover, the Define R4 accommodates up to 8 HDDs, all modern graphics card sizes, and multiple ventilation options - including two standard Silent Series R2 hydraulic bearing fans - to keep internal components at optimal temperatures. For ultimate functionality, the Define R4 features a front interface with USB 3.0 and an integrated three-speed fan controller behind the front panel door. Key featuresHigh density noise-reducing material for an optimal silent case - To achieve a high level of noise reduction, material with mass should be incorporated which is what we strive to achieve with the dense bitumen used on the side panelsPatent pending ModuVent™ design allowing the user to choose between optimal silence or maximum airflowTop HDD cage (5 trays total) can be rotated 90 degrees or removed for additional airflow or to accommodate long graphic cards up to 430mm in lengthThree-speed fan controller is strategically integrated in the front panel and supports up to 3 fansTwo Silent Series R2 fans included, featuring hydraulic bearings contributing to a longer life expectancy – Silent Series R2 retail fans will now come standard in all casesWider case body that allows for improved cable routing behind the motherboard – now 26mm wideNew tool-less front fan holder makes switching front fans a breezeTwo SSDs can be mounted on the back of the motherboard plate in addition to the 8 slots in the HDD trays, for a total of 10 SSD positions availableSpecificationsATX, Micro ATX, Mini ITX motherboard compatibility7 + 1 expansion slots2 - 5.25" bays8 - 3.5" HDD trays - all compatible with SSDs, 2 - 2.5" extra SSD positions3 - ModuVent™ plates - two in the top and one in the side7 - fan positions (2 Silent Series R2 fans included)Filtered fan slots in the front and bottomCPU coolers up to 170mm tall (when no fan is installed in the side panel)ATX PSUs up to 170mm deep when using the bottom fan location, when not using this fan location longer PSUs (up to 270mm deep) can be usedGraphics cards up to 295mm in length with the top HDD cage installedWith the top cage removed, graphics cards up to 430mm in length may be installed26mm of space for cable routing behind the motherboard plateThick rubber grommets on all holes on the motherboard plateColours available: Black Pearl, Titanium Grey, Arctic WhiteCase dimensions (WxHxD): 232 x 464 x 523mmPackage dimensions (WxHxD): 320 x 535 x 610mmNet weight: 12.3 kg Here are the PC Case Modding Parts & Products from Mnpctech used in this case mod 1x Mnpctech Billet PC Window Frame Kit, Black Anodized 1x Cast Acrylic Sheet Transparent Red PC Case Window 1x 12" Super Bright RED Darkside Dimmable LED light strip 1x Mnpctech Billet 280 2.140 Liquid PC Radiator grill, Black Anodized with two 140mm Prolimatech RED LED PC Cooling fans 280 billet radiator grill is mounted with 8x Mnpctech "Screw'd RED M3 Radiator Screws 1x Mnpctech Billet Overkill "Ring" Custom Gaming PC Fan Grill 1x 120mm Sharkoon RED Shark Blade PC Cooling Fan 1x Set of Mnpctech White Delrin PC Case Feet 4x Anodized RED PC Case Thumbscrews The Giveaway case utilizes Red LED light strip pictured above, Mnpctech is now offering other color LED PC light strips here, http://mnpctech.com/pc-led-lights/ White Red Green Blue Orange UV The Fractal-Design case mod by Mnpctech includes one Set of Mnpctech White Delrin PC Case Feet
  5. 4 points
    Great job on the review Jay. This is first time I've seen a radiator include a custom grill, too. I'm looking forward to seeing more Liquid Cooling product reviews on the Zoo!
  6. 4 points
    Congrats to spidey81! look forward to seeing your build.
  7. 4 points
    It can be a mess with FB voting but o well. It's all about the fun! May the best mod win and everyone have fun. :)/>
  8. 4 points
    E.E.L. Ambiense

    Hello and Introductions

    Hi, I am Jeremy. I have an addiction; to cutting computer cases up. *Hangs head in shame* "Hi, Jeremy!"
  9. 4 points
    toby1kanobi

    Hello and Introductions

    Ahoy hoy Most of you will know me from the MNPCtech Facebook page and to a latter extent from your nightmares A professional moderator for several years turned Bill Owen's dogs body and minion Freelance system builder, graphic artist, 3D animator, modder, tech reviewer and egomaniac all on one convenient package
  10. 3 points
    Kylevdm

    Hello and Introductions

    Hello! This is going to be a thread for you to introduce yourself to us, let us know a bit about you and where you are from, I will start! **** Hello, my name is Kyle van der Merwe also know as Kylevdm, I am the host of The Mod Zoo podcast and have been around the modding scene since I was 14... I have a number of projects floating about you can see them all in my sub forum. I split my time between Glasgow, UK and Brussels, Belgium neither have great weather....
  11. 3 points
    Been a while since I've posted a project log, so for those who don't know me, or don't remember, Hi, I'm Mosquito, also known as Chris, and I'm a case modding enthusiast A coworker and I were talking about some of the case mods I've done in the past, and as a result wanted to try watercooling his BitFenix Portal case. He thought switching back to the Wraith cooler for the CPU, and doing a custom loop with a 120mm radiator for just the GPU would be all he'd get. I told him I bet I could fit a 240mm radiator in there, so that's what we've decided to go after... It actually took a lot less modding than I thought it might, as we got relatively lucky with the radiator just clearing the GPU block, but we'll get into that more later. First things first, this is the Bit Befnix Portal, for those who are not familiar Something that makes things a little weird, is that the chassis slides out of the main shell, so we had to make sure we allowed that to continue working through all this. This is what the 'stock' build consisted of. ASRock B350 ITX, Ryzen 1600X, and an RX Vega 56. First things first, gotta tear that down. With the case empty this is, roughly speaking, what we intend to make happen. Removing the back fascia gives a pretty compact little chassis. Though with some indexing pins on the bottom, it doesn't sit on the workbench very well! Next up, remove the drive cage. I'm not sure why this wasn't easily removable, as the bottom is mostly held in place by some sliding connections, but never the less there were 6 rivets to drill out After some fiddling around, we realized that it was going to be a lot more work to get the radiator mounted on the outside of the case, so we would have to make fans in front work instead. Next up, we'll have to get it to fit both fans up front, so stay tuned for that, and please ask questions, post comments, and let me know what you think. Forums are about community, whether we all agree or not
  12. 3 points
    random2k4

    Starwars X-Wing by RandomDesign

    Time is running out, so here we go with another update. This time, I finished the BB-8 unit that will sit at the back of the X-Wing. First, I printed and processed the BB-8 I filled in smaller gaps and coated all with some layers of spray filler. After some wet sanding, one layer of grey primer followed. Next, the first layer of color was applied. I sprayed on some white to give the BB-8 a nice uniform look to begin with. Then, I masked some spots for the first highlights. Orange was dabbed on to give it a more used look and not make it look to perfect. After the orange dried, I applied the silver parts. For more depth, I used a very fine brush and colored all small gaps in black. In addition, some small chipping effects were added. Therefore, I painted some spots black. Then, silver paint was applied. But make sure to leave a thin rim of black to create a 3 dimensional effect. Cause the X-Wing will be painted in a used look, and the BB-8 also has traveled to space a lot, I needed to weather him too. I applied brown and black color on edges to make him look a bit dirty. Now there were only two parts missing. The lights and the lense. For the lense, I used a left over, I casted in resin for another project. It was sanded to fit in the BB-8 and hold by friction. Two blue and one red LED were installed for a little illumination highlight. The entire unit also got a wash with a mixture of black paint and water to dull down the white surfeces a bit more. A servo is already included to make the head move to the left and right.
  13. 3 points
    Nicolas Bidel

    STAR WARS - The Naboo Modding

    thx for the coments. it's finished ouf, many work last days Now, go to CoolerMaster Casemod 2013 !! But there are so mutch wonderfull rigs O.O
  14. 3 points
    Ronnie Hara

    Cosmos Se- Steel Dragon

    I'm here again for new photos of the project and also for the final photos of my work all this time. I would love to thank everyone who followed this project and especially thank my sponsors and everyone who helped me in some way. My special thanks to Cooler Master, Aquatuning Europe, MSI International, MNPCTECH.com, X-Zone, Junpus Thermal Grease, Casemodder.com.br, Kizunas Cars, Acha Facil finishing the project with the stickers Final Photos
  15. 3 points
    Well, time for some final photos. I will have a later update, once I’ve had a chance to get a video posted of the screen in action… Enjoy :) I couldn’t bring myself to leave the blu-ray drive visible all the time. For how little I actually use it, I liked hiding it this way :) Um… problem? Lol That’s all for this one. Hopefully back soon with some video of it in action. Thanks to everyone for all their support and comments throughout this build, it was a really fun project. Thanks again to NZXT for sponsoring this build
  16. 3 points
    IanDD

    Project Raystorm Desk - Pine desk build

    Thanks Guys :) TBH I am used to people being negative about this build, I usually get asked why spend money to cool rubbish hardware or why have dual loops, or why don't you just buy a case, its less effort. Most people that are critical thou, are the ones who are very young, and do not use there own money for mods, or they are single with no family commitments, I am not going to apologise that my family comes before computer hardware! Personally I don't ever really worry about what hardware is in a mod, tbh it all pretty much looks the same anyway, a mobo, is a mobo and a gcard, is a gcard, they all pretty much look the same. Its the actual builds I like looking at, seeing how someone's idea's come together. Part of the design process is working with what you have, in my case I do not have a huge amount of space, so I have to design accordingly :)
  17. 3 points
    You could toatally mount the feet to the grill and have the awesomest coaster ever.:lol:
  18. 3 points
    Bill Owen

    Episode 8: Dyed Laughter

    I'm that guy, who drives a POS car everyday, to the shop that builds Hot Rods for his customers....lol
  19. 3 points
    Waynio

    Hello and Introductions

    Hi everyone :)/> Known as Waynio on forums, just left a forum with finally being too disheartened & this looks like an awesome alternative, my passion for modding is as high as ever, just my tollerance for haters has gone walkies, didn't take long at all for me that, it did only need a couple more gentle pushes for that. :D/> My skin is pretty thick but not thick enough to continue at the place I frequented the most, considering the people who are running this ship I think I'll like it a lot here & I'll join in when I can. :)/> Hope you welcome this stray occasionally mad dog (when bugged) to the zoo. :D/>
  20. 3 points
    Kylevdm

    Adding a YouTube video to your post.

    Hey all, As many of you may have noticed the software behind this board is different to what you will have used before, and in my mind it is awesome! However, getting YouTube videos to embed in posts is different. [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XX26IQf9dsA[/media] Using the above, will give you this.
  21. 3 points
    frickmeister

    Hello and Introductions

    Hello, my name is Bill Frick (Yes, it's really my last name and Please don't ask how I got it, I was kinda born into it) and I've been drooling all over myself looking at many past and current mod's. I was dragged here screaming and kicking by Toby1Kanobi and have never bothered to look for an exit since I realized his curse was really a gift. I currently reside in Spring Hill, Florida but claim Detroit as my original stomping ground.
  22. 3 points
    John Hanlon

    Hello and Introductions

    I've been doing computer software and testing since before PCs were invented. Retired now. I've been modding computers since the early 1990s when we didn't even have a name for. I'm glad to be here.
  23. 3 points
    Bill Owen

    Hello and Introductions

    Hello and Welcome! I started Mnpctech in 2001 and modify PCs for high profile clientelle around the world. We also design and manufacture our own modding accessories which are available at online retailers that include frozencpu, kustompcUK and performance-pcs. I live to mod in the frozen tundra, Minnesota
  24. 2 points
    Cheapskate

    Hyper Case DM-01

    Just popped in to see if you had any deluxe content that I might have missed on Bit. And rep bomb. I miss Bit's system that let me dish out 10,000 rep with a single click.
  25. 2 points
    Good evening people! For anyone looking to do something fiddly to do this weekend i have a perfect project for the you. All of the files for MK3D is now live on thingiverse for anyone to download and build. ( also included a list of everything you'll need in terms of bolts etc. ) If anyone decides to conquer this project i would love to see it, if you upload an image to social media tag me in it ( im @forsbergcustoms everywhere ). https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3992080 Enjoy folks!
  26. 2 points
    Back with a redo on the LEDs I did the wiring slightly different so I didn't crowd the contacts on the leds Putting the back frame on MoBo Mount ASUS Prime Z390-A TEAMGROUP NIGHT HAWK Legend RGB 16gb DDR4 RAM ASUS ROG RYUJIN 360 AIO CPU Cooler ASUS ROG Thor 1200W Modular RGB PSU with my 3D printed bracket All the parts on the frame. Next I'll be going in on the lighting and showing some of that!
  27. 2 points
    Kazuma

    (Completed) Project: WhiteNoise

    Hey Guys! I'm back! What a 2018! And as usual, I just finished another project sponsored by EVGA, Thermaltake and Zadak511, and I am here to share it with you guys. This project got delayed a bunch of times but in the end I got it done before the end of 2018. Let's start shall we? This project is called "WhiteNoise", and the theme of the project is based on a NHL team, the Winnipeg Jets! I got inspired to do this project after watching the Winnipeg Jets go against the Nashville Predators last year in the playoffs. Looking at their official uniforms, I thought, why not make a case mod with their theme? Blue, White, Gray and a little bit or Red? Sure! So, I asked EVGA if they would like to throw in their DG-76 computer case to be murdered by me. A week after asking, well, they've sent me these. They were kind enough to send a DG-76, x2 GtX 1080 with Hydro Copper Blocks, 850PQ power supply, some awesome sleeved power supply cables (blue and white), power links and some awesome poster. And Zadak511 stepped in and threw in a 64GB kit of their Zadak MOAB RGB ram sticks with some swags included! And Apacer global jumped in too and threw in one of their M.2 128GB SSD for the project. Now, for the main "star" of the butchery.. Now, originally, my plan was to flip the whole case so the front panel will be the bottom, Remove the part of the case that has mounting holes for reservoir and slap x2 360mm radiator, which sadly didn't work. This would have work, but if I went this route, I would need to either cut some breathing holes on the right side panel or make a replacement for the let tempered glass with holes on it for exhausting air from the radiator fans. So, I ended up with the easier way. One 360mm radiator on front. And before dismantling the DG-76, someone rang the doorbell, and this was in the front door. And after that, I decided to dismantle some parts of the DG-76, mainly the power supply shroud and the motherboard tray since I wanted those to remain white, and the rest will be blue. Aaaand off to the backyard we go! This was around October, and the temperature around here is getting colder. I was planning on doing some more cutting on the computer case, but if I remembered correctly, I only had 2 more days before the weather goes down to below zero. While waiting for the fresh coat of paint to dry up a little bit, I went ahead and did some cutting on the plastic front panel. Now, I wanted to do a push/pull config for the radiator, and I want to have the fans pulling to be outside the case. That is impossible to do unless you trim off this tab with magnet that holds the front dust cover and trim a little bit of the bottom too. after doing those, well, time to give this a blue bath! Now, a few days after I have torn the DG-76 to pieces, I ordered some White Delrin PC case feet from MNPCTech.com . These looks and feels premium and thought would go nicely for this build. Installing them was a breeze too. The DG-76's original feet has 2 mounting holes for each. Conveniently, those holes are almost the exact, same size as the included mounting screws for the White Delrin case feet! just need to file those hole a little bit and the screws just slide in. How convenient is that! While waiting for the top, front and back plastic panels to dry up, I spewed some paint on the right metal panel and some of the random accessories for the build. The hydro copper block, the Thermaltake CL360 Radiator and the sli bridge. Aaaaaaand.... At this point, there is just no way for me to be able to more paint jobs since the temperature outside is well below 0c, so I opted with using Vinyl stickers for the Winnipeg Jets logos for the build. As much as I wanted to do paint instead of stickers, It just won't work. I tried, but things just got ugly and I ended up sanding the paint down. But in the end, the vinyl sticker worked pretty well. This is Thermaltake's W4 pacific water block. Again, vinyl sticker for the Jets logo. But after doing the logo, I realized I screwed up something. For the logo to stay upright like this, I need to rotate the whole block, which sadly won't work. The mounting bracket and the holes are just waaaaaay off. LOL! Now if I took the sticker off and rotate it upright, well, the logo won't look good anymore. So in the end, I ended up changing the logo. Aaaaaand, after a few days of waiting, everything dried up well. As I have mentioned, after the blue paint job, I could not do anymore painting outside, so I ended up with using Vinyl stickers and a little bit of clear coating. Now, a couple months back before I started this project, I ended up dismantling half of my CNC machine to try to get it leveled as much as I could. Office life got busier than ever, so the cnc was out of commission when I started this project. Now, I am not a huge fan of front panels that doesn't have any breathing holes on it and instead have gaps all around the side for air to be either pulled in or exhaust out. I wanted to make a custom front panel for the project, so I ended up contacting one of my buddies, killRMODZ to do a solid for me and make the custom front panel. After a very short noticed, and a few exchanges of emails about the design, this is what we ended up with. The bottom piece is actually a gpu support in the form of a hockey stick. Now, all I need to do is to drill some mounting holes for the front panel, and the front will be completed! Looks awesome in my opinion! And now, if ever, I will be comfortable using the front as the front intake and won't worry about not having enough airflow! And I think that was all the stuff that I need to do before putting the thing together. Got all the panels painted up, logos on them, why don't we put the thing together then? Shall we? Sooooo, back when I was making a list for the stuff that I will be using for thermaltake, I screwed up that list. Instead of asking 3 sets of Thermaltake Riing Trio fans, I ended up writing 1 set of 120mm and 3 sets of 140mm fans (stupid I know). In this project, I will need at least 6 fans for the push/pull config. It's a good thing that Thermaltake sent me one of the Floe AiO coolers which has 3 120mm fans. So I ended up using those since the 140mm wont fit either inside the case or outside the front panel. Time to do the hard line tubing! Although after finishing up one bottle of beer, I fell asleep and ended up doing the hard line loop the next day. I have a very, VEEEERY low alcohol tolerance, so usually, one bottle of beer is enough to knock me off. Now, after doing the whole loop, I filled it up and discovered I have a bad leak on the cpu block fitting. And by the looks of it, I didn't tighten the fitting enough. The coolant got on the motherboard just a little bit, probably a drop or two. So I needed to drain the whole loop, and blow dry the board. And in hindsight, it was actually good since I realized, I needed to add one more drain valve on the tube from the GPU's going to the radiator. And for the coolant, Thermaltake was kind enough to send these baby for the project. Aaaand after doing some leak test, and testing if the board is still alive (which I already knew the board was fine), it's time to wrap this baby up! Thermaltake's Pacific C-Pro fittings is one of the easiest fittings that I have used so far. And they went really well with the project. They actually sent over some blue fittings too but after asking the wife which color to go, I ended up with the one fitting. Aaaaaand, time to turn this baby on! And that's it for this project! After some delays, small problems here and there, this was still a fun project for me! Now I can officially say, I am a HUGE Winnipeg Jets fan now! To the sponsors, thank you very much for the support! I hope you guys had fun going through this work log and hopefully, learn a little bit too. Have a happy new year and see on the next project!
  28. 2 points
    random2k4

    WOPR - Casecon by RandomDesign

    After a while, finally another update on the Wopr. To make the entire construction more ridged, I clued aluminium profiles to the bottom of the case. Now it will be easier to mount the Wopr to a base plate. I also don run into any issues with the PLA breaks under the preasure of the bolts I will use to mount it to the base. Next, I used a material called EpoxAcoat. It is an epoxy that can be applied with a brush and after 16h of curing time becomes rock solid. This is a great way to strengthen up 3D prints from the inside. While the epoxy dried, I printed the doors. To make the doors fully functional and not only decorative, also printed some handles. Just need to minstall a small mechanism on the back side now.
  29. 2 points
    Well, I finally finished the monitor mod! Of course I waited til the very last minute.. I was painting the last pieces while I was taking final pics of the case for the Cooler Master World Series lol. Anyway, here's the last of the progress pics. After doing the base, I wanted to add something to the monitor itself. Originally, I thought I'd add some webbing around the bezel, but that would overlap too far onto the screen and obstruct the view. So I decided to use some acrylic pieces that I had cut when I thought the chrome guy had lost the rails. Primochill came through for me in a big way, and I couldn't let these acrylic bars go un-used. So the first thing was to figure out a mounting solution. The bars are pretty stout, being 3/8" thick, so the supports had to be strong enough to hold them. I came up with a simple plan to use just two 1/2" aluminum bars that run through the back panel. I only had to cut two slots at the top since I could utilize the existing speaker slots at the bottom. (who uses monitor speakers anyways ? ) A back view of the supports in place.. I had to do some prep work on the acrylic bars themselves, rounding over the edges, sanding and filing, and bending the ends down. I matched the angle of the original rails on the case. Here's a quick mockup.. looks too much like a spoiler this way lol.. Maybe there's some performance-enhancing aspects of this mod that will benefit the monitor.. 4K resolution perhaps? To secure the mounting supports to the back panel, I used JB Weld to hold some L brackets in place and screwed the supports to them. Then I made some angled mounting brackets to secure the acrylic bars to the supports. With the bottom and top bar together it looks less like a spoiler now and more like the top of the case, which was the original intent. Prime and paint! And final assembly.. And finally, the monitor is reunited with the stand.. And that's that! To whet your appetite, here is a group shot of Achromodic together with the ViewSonic monitor and EVGA Z10 keyboard. I'll be posting the rest of the final pics a bit later. Cheers!
  30. 2 points
    So after getting the front panel on, I noticed there was nothing covering up the ugliness behind the reservoir. So I had to come up with something that fit the theme. I figured a nice curved shroud of webbing would do the trick! I grabbed another piece of cardboard and whipped up a quick template, then cut it out of a piece of styrene. Then I took the top grill and traced out all the webbing shapes and made them fit around the existing holes and cutouts. The dremel with a routing bit made quick work of the soft material, but it did take a while to file and smooth all the edges. Styrene is pretty pliable, so it was easy to bend it by hand into a gradual curve. Then I combined it with a nice mesh background so you can't see through the holes. Glued the two together before putting it in place. Dont need any fastening to secure it either, thanks to the spring-loaded tension. Now I can put the reservoir back in.. I added an ledstrip behind the front panel, so it lights everything up nicely. The ledstrip circles the CM logo ring as well. And that pretty much wraps up the fabrication.. I think.. unless I see something else I need to address lol. Only thing left to do is install the OS and configure the fans and lighting effects.
  31. 2 points
    All that is useless if you drive something like a Miata. I don't think there's enough pillows you could pack your rig in to compensate for go-cart suspension. /unhelpful comment post count: +1
  32. 2 points
    Mick writes: He can either get a quick answer via the FAQ's or he can use the ticket system here, http://support.mayhems.net/index.php If he uses the ticket system, ian our support rep will help him, and will send him out one of our new support pack if he see's fit. The new support pack includes little sample bottles (and a mini blits kit) and a pre paid envelope for him to ship samples back to us so we can tell him why his system isn't working. Why has my coolant degraded? There are unlimited factors involved when asking such a question and a little understanding goes a long way. Coolants do not degrade they have a very specific job and that is to protect you liquid cooling loop, to suspend bad particles and chemical’s in your system and to keep any form of biological growth from growing in the eco system of the loop. Why does my coolant change colour? When you introduce colour to the base Coolants ( be that clear, Pastel ®, or say Aurora ® or any other manufacture of OEM coloured of coolants) you introduce not really a second problem but an actual indicator if there is an issue with in the liquid cooling loop. Say you do not clean your system correctly or good enough you will see these issues rather quickly once you introduce heat into the system. Now if you use a clear coolant you will not see much of a difference because the colour of copper contaminates which is Blue / Green in colour. So if you add Blue / Green tints to water it looks more like water (being a trick of light). Now say you introduce a Yellow dye and add Blue / Green you get a brownish colour instead. So this isn’t the coolant braking down it’s the coolant doing what it is supposed to do.For e.gBlue / Green copper impurities + Yellow dye = Brown CoolantBlue / Green copper impurities + Orange dye = Deep Brownish OrangeBlue / Green copper impurities + Red = Deep Dark Red eventually turning Brown Why does Pastel ® / Ice Dragon Coolant ® flocculate (clump together)? Pastel ® and Ice Dragon Cooling ® have very small suspended particles inside them (down to 20 Nano Meter (nm)) and each and every practical has a charge to stop them joining together (think of magnets that have a positive and negative charge to make them push each other away). This change is effected by the PH of the fluids. If the PH of the fluids is out of range you can cause the charge of the fluids to fail (think of the shield around the death star failing after one little git took out its main reactor.). Once that charge has failed the particles no longer are protected and can then flocculate (meaning join together). This again is a massive indicator that you have an issue some ware within your liquid cooling loop. Generally a good clean using say the Mayhems Blitz Kit can fix this issue. We “think” PH change is a combining factor of flux residue and also low end copper usage. Mayhems itself is conducting a lot of tests of many rads used in liquid cooling to see if we can refine this question and answer more. Notes :http://www.dazmode.com/_forum/showthread.php?476-Bungwirez-Corsair-C70/page1Now we looked at Bungwirez-Corsair-C70 build by the user asking the question and we saw he had used a Fesser Rad Admiral radiator in his system that are notorious for being in effective for cooling yet the user also painted the fins and copper tubes making them less effective. However we noted in the build the user was not using pastel but Ice dragon cooling. http://www.dazmode.com/_forum/showthread.php?32-Bungwirez-HAF932-mods/page21 We looked though the thread and can see the user never cleaned his blocks or rads prior to installing his hardware and this is a perfect example of issues you would find by not cleaning your system. Another note would be the amount of dust covering the rads would make them ineffective and would create a massive heat build over time. Also noted he used Plastic tubing that release plasticizer causing his blockages (this in turn with his heat that is a catalyst for other issues). If the user cleaned his system prior to building and also keep on top of dust then most of these issues would have been solved.
  33. 2 points
    Hi guys! Here's some of the gear in the case and also the red frame is back in. You can see a custom acrylic plate where the reservoir is mounted with a pass-through fitting going down into the main compartment and also a cover for the PSU area with the In Win logo on it :D Fill port in the top MNPCTECH grill on there just for the cool look. It goes with the bits of silver on the motherboard :P Thanks for checking it out! Cheers, Alex
  34. 2 points
    Final Photos Click on the thumbs for larger photos I couldn't bring myself to prune down the amount of shots anymore than I did, so I'm done with 50 PHOTOS. Not bad, considering I shot over 200+. ;) Excess at its excessive. FYI: This is not the end of this project though. Stay tuned for Phase III of Project CLUNK!
  35. 2 points
    If that doesn't work I have another idea. I might make a front for it and figure out how to keep the filter. I should have the case next week so a log of sorts may follow if I can make the project move in a timely fashion.
  36. 2 points
    Sponsored by: Hello and welcome to the final update WOW! What a journey this has been with my still unnamed TJ07 project! With this update I would like to show you the completed build in all of it's glory! Thank you to all of you sponsors for your support in making this the PC that I had imagined using your products! This project started over a year ago when I bought a SilverStone Temjin TJ07 second hand from a local man.. I started designing ideas in SketchUp and eventually came up with a design that I (and you guys :) ) enjoyed. A few months went by when a friend of mine asked me to build this computer for him. Fast forward a few months of slow but sure progress, and here we have the finished product!! Personally, I think that this PC looks spectacular!! I love the black on black with just a little hint of grey and carbon black highlights. Very stealthy and understated. The finished project contains the following hardware: Intel Core i7 4930K ASUS Rampage IV Black Edition X79 G.Skill Ripjaws Z DDR3 PC19200/2400MHz CL10 4x8GB x2 (64GB total) Sapphire Radeon R9 290 4GB x3 (Trifire) Samsung 840 EVO Series 500GB x2 NB-BlackSilent Pro 120mm x6 SilverStone ST1200-G 1200W EK Coolstream PE 480 EK Coolstream PE 240 EK-RES X3 250 x2 EK-FB ASUS R4BE Monoblock - Acetal+Nickel EK-FC R9-290X - Acetal+Nickel (Rev.2.0) x3 EK-FC R9-290X Backplate - Black x3 Alphacool VPP655 - G1/4 IG complete with D5 HF Top EK HD fittings and adapters NSFW WARNING!! Oh and get some popcorn ;) Thank you everyone for following my project! I have 2 more to be completed before the end of the year, so keep your eyes on my Facebook page for the build log links :) See you at the next project! Kind regards, Justin "MetallicAcid" Ohlsen
  37. 2 points
    Alvin Barber

    Copper or Brass Etching

    Thought this might be useful to someone. Here's how I etch brass and copper. The Gootee method works but I've found that Press n' Peel Blue produces more predictable results. http://www.techniks.com/ Examples of what I use this method for: Gootee method at: http://www.fullnet.com/u/tomg/gooteepc.htm Here's how I made the Cobra-matic fan cover. Designed using CorelDraw: Printed using a laser printer on the darkest or heaviest setting as a reverse image (always pays to have more than one). You can also use a copier to do the same thing. Cut copper to approximate size (note stove background): Put cutout laser print on copper; turn stove to 11: Ensure SWMBO is gone :) use rolling pin to apply a metric tonne of pressure: Aside: the rolling pin method works (as does a clothes iron) but if you don't have electric stove and/or a understanding wife, partner, significant other, landlord, or Mom. Let me introduce you to a laminator. If you plan to do more than one etch then $20 on ebay is a wise investment. This is a Royal Superguard Laminator Plus model. A little modding makes it perfect for etching PCBs and brass sheet. Opening up the laminator, see the resistor? A quarter turn there and the laminator heats up to 200F and works wonders for getting a good transfer after about 5 passes through. Back to the stove method, turn off stove; dunk copper in water to peel paper. If you use Press n Peel, this step is not needed. Use thumb to clear more paper off; cover back in duct tape: I use a peroxide and muriatic acid solution. Always, always add acid to peroxide instead of peroxide to acid. Recite "Do what you oughta, add acid to water" 3X. Gently slide the etchee into the solution to avoid splashing. This etch took 45 minutes but your time will vary depending on how deep you want the etch. Obligatory PSA: Yes this is acid. Its an angry, angry liquid that eats metal cause its unable to get to you. Given a chance, it will burn your exposed skin. It will burn your sinuses and lungs if you breathe it. No kidding, it IS evil in a bottle! If you decide to try this, do it outside while wearing long sleeves, long pants, shoes (no, flip flops don't count), goggles, and chemical resistant gloves. [/PSA] Remove with wooden tongs. Rinse with baking soda & water, remove tape, clean with acetone: Grin, clean-up, and celebrate your awesomeness. I've tried a variety of chemicals and techniques experimenting with electrolytic etching with copper sulfate as well as sodium bisfulate and peroxide. I've found the best etch was consistently with peroxide and muriatic acid. I do prefer Ferric Chloride for circuit boards tho'. Questions?
  38. 2 points
    The Winner of the case is "Catking" I will PM you today, to congratulate you for your full name and address :D
  39. 2 points
    My horror story: I got a new AMD 8350 FX processor and it being my first one with pins. I laid the chip in the socket wrong and with a mighty crunch; I heard $200 going down the drain. The cpu cooler crushed most of the pins flat. I sat for 3 hours trying to pull all the pins back straight with credit cards, safety pin, thread needle and ended up breaking 4 on the pins off. I couldn't believe what I had done! I died a little that day. I just finished building a nice rig and would love to have these tools to start doing some MODZ of my own. This will be my first Modded gaming rig. A $200 paper weight; I still feel sick just thinking about it.
  40. 2 points
    Bill Owen

    Phanteks Enthoo

    Yay! Hello Bill, Thank you for your interest in our case. We will be delighted to have you review our case. I will contact you as soon as we get our inventory in maybe around early July. Thanks again for your interest. Sincerely, Phanteks
  41. 2 points
    JakeGFX

    Arctic Water

    is it me or does every photo look better with magoo on it.
  42. 2 points
    Modding boy - I just wanted to thank you. After seeing what you did with the grill you made it taught me that some complex things can be made with basic tools. I'm sure your not the first to do this but you were the one that took the time to post it at the right time for me. I'm working on a back panel and it is working for me, A little time and patience and a lot can be done. Anyway you have really helped me and thank you.
  43. 2 points
    Thanks for following guys! Here are some updates on what is in the works... I'm happy to say we've added another very special sponsor to the project... Lutro0 Customs! This will be some beautiful sleeving work! Now for the progress... Measuring out pieces to make dual res holder from 1/4" thick Black Opaque acrylic sheet Custom Dual Res tube holder for the EK Res X3s EK Res X3s, ready for mounting What remains of the factory front I/O, this was part of the CM II's top panel. This will flip open. Modified "Laurey" style cabinet hinge, this spring loaded, and found at WoodCraft, http://www.woodcraft....ount-Pair.aspx Spacer for hinge made from 1/8" acrylic, this will be painted later Dual EK Res X3s mounted. This location will be ideal when it's time to fill the two loops. The flip cover, creates easy access for inspecting the loops, if ever needed in the future. The rear cover flips open now too! I wanted to use an ipod touch for monitoring and fan control. This will be mounted in the front top panel and running through the Bitfenix Recon phone app. Making the front phone mount Initial looks of the front phone fan control module. Think Luke Skywalker's targeting computer ;)/> Custom shroud for the reservoirs More coming soon! Keep checking back :)/>
  44. 2 points
    Hey guys, I'm the new guy ^^ My name is Desislav Lesov, I'm 22 years old. I live in Bulgaria, Eastern Europe. I'm just getting into water cooling and modding. It's awesome to be a part of your forum. Cheers!
  45. 2 points
    Kylevdm

    Episode 8: Dyed Laughter

    Host: Kyle van der Merwe Co Hosts: Bill Owen, Jeremy Birch, Cheapskate Guest: Michael Wood Producer: Jeremy Birch Kyle starts the eighth episode of the Mod Zoo with the normal crew, Bill Owen from MNPCTech, Jeremy "EEL Ambiense" Birch, Cheapskate aka Munkey and Michael Woods from Mayhems! We discuss the forums - good job you are here already - as well as listener Questions and What The Hell! Download the .mp3 or .ogg or subscribe on iTunes! http://themodzoo.com/podcast/The%20Mod%20Zoo%20-%20Ep8.mp3
  46. 2 points
    Let me add this thought up. In the other hand, voting in 30% is still a good idea. Why??? Because if we rely in judges only, the winners will depend on judges taste not on the deserving winners, why? because I experience this a lot of times before. (I'm not questioning or attacking our CM Judges) but think about it. Judges should be architects, industrial designers or engineer or someone who really understands "Designs" and principles not just modding. Modding today is not just about doing holes in a pc or parts, it should have a sense of design, because without design, then modding shouldn't be a contest, because everyone can blow holes or cut metals or bend materials, but doing it with style and design, that's where we can truly say: "WOW! That mod project is awesome". Before, I already joined many contest that rely on judges, and I never got a chance even in the 3rd place. I was so discourage, I said "it's unfair". Then I joined voting based contests, and there were times I won by 2nd/3rd but there are times that I didn't win. I was discourage again, I said "it's unfair!". So what's my point? The point is, whether its voting or judges based contest, if we don't change our attitude whenever we are low in votes or not chosen by the judges, any contest will always be unfair for us. Instead let's try our very best to mod and present our work.
  47. 2 points
    Heard rumors there will be pro modders judging
  48. 2 points
    The day AMD leaves the desktop market is the day I stop building PCs. I refuse to work and buy products in an industry with no competition. Also http://www.dailytech.com/Reuters+Claims+AMD+is+Pursuing+a+Sale+AMD+Denies+it/article29192.htm AMD is looking at ARM into the future, something Intel has been avoiding so far - Intel has done some ARM work, but nothing big. But I suppose with AMD heading that way Intel will, just like x86-64, dual cores, quad cores, hypertransport (intel called theirs QPI), Hub architecture, IGP on package and the list goes on...
  49. 2 points
    toby1kanobi

    USB Mod

    One does not Simply mod a Data stick
  50. 2 points
    simple,humble,shy,retiring shunning the lime light these are just some of the words that go along way to not explaining what the hell i am . Bull3t the man the myth the legend i am he . Just a humble brother modder not a pro or even in gainful employ i am from the band of bedroom modders dremel type tool in one hand pillow in the other. only been in modding p.c's for a 2 or 3 year span i lose track is it the millieniuim yet . on to my 5rd case modd write now . more of a moderator than a pro modder set up and run several really annoying Facebook groups B)/> love the old graphic sketch up not shy to the old bf3 you may even see me on the you of the ol toob in a minecraft :ph34r:/>
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