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Cheapskate

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Everything posted by Cheapskate

  1. @Shikitan -I'd contact him at mnpctech, because this forum is very nearly dead. It's mostly for archiving old content now.
  2. You and Ron are the only other people to notice the site is back. I think I've seen your 'uncle' here in Texas a few times.
  3. FIRST! I should apologize. That was totally me that time. Thanks again, Kyle for fixing things!
  4. I mean, I can't imagine what would make my mill lean all of a sudden... - Oh... Right. -I made a thing. -I guess the edges were moot, because I sanded everything even. I figured the top would need work, so I added 1/32" to it in the model. Sure enough, that was the side that had the weird gouges in the cut. Here's a teaser with the switch assembly. -I guess I hadn't sanded the sides in the earlier pic yet. Here you can see that I drilled the holes the rest of the way, and tapped stuff. -Next up: This jig was so I could mill the ports connecting the two manifolds. -Done. Now I had to drill the rest of those mounting holes and tap them. -So, more squirrely tool setup. -There was some equal squirrel levels for the tapping. Who is the idiot that designs these things?!? -I used the base plate to find the other two holes. I filled in the holes with fine-point marker here. Earlier design tweaks in cad moved the holes closer together because the material was much thinner. -And nailed it. -sort of... Viva loose tolerances!
  5. Pretty much what I said on Bit.
  6. Pretty much. The fact that it's something like, .001" is the real pain. I'll never get re leveled without an indicator. I can still sand it out.
  7. At my age, losing rigidity is a constant fear. ...I had to go there. Anyway, after all that bragging about this setup, I got a pretty bad surface: I got the new bit. -I used the down time to rearrange all the lights and hoses so the work could be seen better. I promptly snapped off the back hose. -This bit has 1 1/8" cutting length, but the fluting is continued further. It was exactly what I needed for this deep cut. 7 inches a minute, .032 inch depth of cut, .27" cut so two passes each cut = 4 hours+. ow. -Here's where I'm stumped: The back and left side edges are like glass near the top. -Better pic. The front and right side are grooved a bit. I'm thinking the mill is leaning just a bit to that direction? It's not enough to see using a square, but when I fly cut a high spot on the top, I noticed the cutter leaning that way too. -Here's the one that's really confusing me. The front left corner was getting gouged consistently in a staggered pattern. I was cleaning the chips. It shouldn't be doing that on a .02" shave anyway. -Another angle. Anyone? -Anyway. Here's the un-drilled, super rough, half-finished CHONK. I've already started sanding. It was found in a heap at a recycling center ages ago. Of course it needs sanded. :D I even used it as a table at one point.
  8. I bet that was 'spensive too. I can run that kind of stuff in the Taig. It's really solid. The spindle is even set up to allow 3/8" shanks to pass through the top of the assembly. You could potentially drop a bit into the collet to cut a really deep pocket. You'd need to loosen the bit and re-zero until finished. That doesn't sound very fun, though.
  9. Site's still up? whoah! -Side ports... That was... snug. I set up this bit to cut 1/2" deep, while making sure there was clearance for the collet. When I started the process, The Z ran up the 1/4" clearance gap I normally work with, and crashed into the top of the frame. Oops, forgot about that one. There was a lot of tinkering to get everything to fit. -I got my ports cut, though. Next I sanded. -I didn't too fancy. I roughed out with 150 and 240 grit, then went straight to the powdered cleaner buff. -Until I finish up, I'm leaving the masking on. For now, have a nice pic of my ceiling. -I milled out this chunk of 3/4" and 1/2" to make a switch marble housing. There was a tense moment when I misplaced my ballsack. -Eventually, this will be backed with this pearl stuff, and a tiny switch placed behind. -Oh, right. I teased I was going to get after this big plastic. I sliced off a 4 inch slab. I wish The new mill was as easy to level as the tile saw. -Say hi to the new "air compressor." It's quiet, low power consumption, and an effective calf workout. This quarantine hasn't helped my weight any. -This is the start of a 3/4" deep pocket. The total time was around 3 1/2 hours. I could have made a more efficient operation, but this is such a huge chunk. I'd hate to screw it up. -This is where I'm currently at, and where I'll likely be for a week. I was impressed enough with the finish of the 1/4" ball bit, that I decided to get a square end to finish up the outside. I didn't want to use the 1" depth of cut bit on this and potentially muck up the part where the shank would touch. -If any of that makes sense. TL;DR - I bought a long bit to finish. -Well, as long as I could get.
  10. It would be doable with some tweaks on your cnc router. It'd take test fits and micrometer use while the part was still in the machine. I had to do some of that too. The whole point of milling the wood joints was to avoid hand sawing/chiseling.
  11. Christmas fellow munkeys! -I said I'd remake it, and I did. There was a slight problem again, however... - The sheet I used to make this part was REALLY warped. Even after gluing it down with all my lead shot on top of it, one corner lifted off the waste board. The result is that the O-ring channel around the tube area is too deep. I think I can fix it by adding some clear paint to the low area. -I remade the center baffle too. The first one's color was fantastic, but it obscured the view. This is 'Florescent blue.' -Hey! Someone made the tap tool a perfect fit for a wrench! I totally planned that out, and didn't have a crescent wrench ready. The tool worked perfectly, and the tapping was right on. -I also had some horrible discrepancies in each part. The low spot in the middle is unsanded, and you can see the first part had a nice clean cut, while the other two look awful. I changed the speed for these and sped up the spindle to give my ears a break. There's also a nasty tilt in the cut from me not leveling the machine yet. I resorted to 80 grit to get all this even. That's not something that should happen with cnc. I probably need to get this thing dialed in a little better. -This is my mill set as high as it can go. There's like, 1/8" of space in there. I need these flat and level to mate the radiator connectors. -And I still have a collision. the light box got repositioned to the front. -Next, I had to cut that tunnel... Let's just say the first time was cleaner. This one got a little potato-shaped. I marked up the centers for milling the ports... I'm not sure why I did the ones on the end of the part. I still have to mill that one flat tonight. -When I get that fixed up, next up is THIS bad boy. :D 1&1/4" plexi. I'm just waiting for a warm day to tile saw off what I need. You don't want to get sprayed with ice cold water in winter. -Thicker than the manifold. This is going to be obnoxious. On that note, I'm finishing up with Christmas stuff: -Holiday gag gift finished! -Except for cleanup. The varnish was OK with 50-degree weather, but the tape wasn't. -Take that! Pesky phone solicitors! So far, this is the only successful gift delivery. Everything else is stuck in a post office somewhere. We have a 14 pound turkey for three, and family will be coming by to collect pots of food from the doorstep. :eyebrow: What a weird year. I hope everyone is doing well, and have a merry Christmas.
  12. -I'd like to take a moment to confess that I am WAY too stingy with the plastic. I had to tile saw this to fit the surfacing job I did on the MDF. I cut just enough material off to leave .14 inch between the two parts. That was some really tough zeroing. -The white Christmas turned into a blizzard. -The last time I tried to tap using the drill press, my setup managed to still drive the tap crooked. I decided to make a tap guide that doesn't have 15 degrees of play. I got really elaborate with it. Here are two bits of acetal that will hold the tap. -I know what you are thinking, "just drill a hole in a chunk of wood." I tried that, the smooth bit on the tap is small enough for the end to tilt. I was doing great with the acetal, until I used the big bit. It got the plastic hot, and it promptly started stinking. It turns out acetal vents formaldehyde. -So I got some traumatic flashbacks of high school biology rat dodgeball, and burning, itchy eyes. -I think I'm ready to tap the manifold now. The tap is pressed into the guide, and the back has slots for a wrench. I also cut the middle baffle layer. The frosted stuff is a lot more opaque than I thought. That's it for now. Thanks for putting up with me. :D
  13. I have little to show. I've been having not much fun with win10. It seems hell-bent on deleting my drivers and software lately. -I managed to dremel and sand out the bridge under the 2 O-rings I mentioned. The 1/64" O-ring retainer is gone at this point. I don't know what kind of brain-fart I had that made me think that tiny lip would survive. The blue is remnants of permanent marker so I could (sort of) see what I was doing. -I've decided to remake this one, so the masking came off. The clouding to the left is when I noticed the bit was going dull. It's about time. I used it on all the aluminum for the gantry mill too. -You don't think I'd throw away a dull bit with a name like 'Cheapskate' though, right? I just shifted it to wood duty. It's gag-gift season, and i thought I'd try dovetailed wood. I finished up the sharp corners with a 1mm bit. I'm starting to really like those.
  14. Hellooo. -Tonight is a tale of tolerances, the intolerant builder, and the machines who loved him. -I took advantage of that tape that refused to let go and broke the paddlewheel. Here it's holding this bit of scrap while a FAT 3/8" ball bit rips through it. -The end result after three bit changes? One half of a motherboard standoff. The one to the left wasn't glued completely, and the one in front has a flat. I guess the stock was too small. These have a little 1/64" lip on top so I can align the 2nd half and glue. My old mill can do that. -The new one? well... -IGNORE THE TOOTHBRUSH. I had an attempt at making the spirals, only to find the glitter weakened the strips too much. Didn't I learn that in the earlier post? So I've moved to plan B, which I haven't planned yet. also, Ignore the toothbrush. -I whipped up some mesothelioma-inducing holders to mill the reservoir. Seriously, DON'T work with MDF. The dust is nasty. The orange marks the sides I cut out parallel. I tried to cut some parts to glue these together, and found my miter saw was knocked out of true. I got similar results on the table saw, so I resorted to milling it. ...and I managed to get it glued together crooked. That's another plan B, codename: "Wing It." -I got one of the manifold parts started. Here I have a wacky-long 1/4" ball bit cutting channels. I bet this would be fantastic in the Taig mill, but here it was insanely loud. Note the fuzz buildup. ^Before^ -After: The closest thing to a white Christmas Houston will ever get. -This is mostly cut. I need to add ports in the two slots in the top, and do you see the hole above the right channel? That needs a tunnel dug out of it. I noticed at the 11th hour I'd drawn something that would have leaked. One last thing I screwed up on: Remember how I said the new machine couldn't cut as accurately? This was supposed to have 1/64" O-ring retaining walls around the channels. That hella-loud vibrating bit obliterated those. So that's what is taking so long. I've been hit with tons of failure, and I'm beginning to question my sanity. All is not lost, though. Plan "Wing It" is brilliant in it's simplicity.
  15. Egad! 2 months of copy-paste from Bit-Tech inbound. That guy that left their BigGulp on top of the server is fired! I'm late. I owe you guys an update. I had a bunch of drawing to do, so in the background I had the mill running. -I've had this SWEET glitter plastic palleted for months, so I got to cutting. Roughly $30 a square foot, and I turned half of this section into dust. This is the paddle wheel to power the gear works. -Gah! The glitter makes it weaker than normal plastic, and I used the good tape. -****!!! Thank God it's plexiglas. I fused it back together once I finally freed it. -This is a closeup of one of the other parts I did. I finished this one up with a 1mm bit to get some of the tight corners cut. I have to say that's a really pretty surface. For scale; this is a 3/16" thick part. -Sadly, I still needed to sand it a bit to get it to fit. The older parts were made when I was using those dicey bits. -A blurry shot of another four parts getting glued together. -and here it all is assembled. I figured out I can use the original gears. The center gear doesn't bind if you sand down the radius. -I finished up with the top support. I also milled some tiny bushings from HDPE. My favorite source for bushing material is old school binders. At this scale, they are almost entirely burring. -That's the drive system worked out. I need to get the main tube leveled next, and I can make some spirals as a side project. ...but first, the yard is calling. Fall didn't wait for me to get un-sick.
  16. Congrats on the new munchkin, Mos! I'll keep posting here even though you will be sleep deprived and not visiting for a while. :D I managed to get sick this week, so I have nothing... I might as well stop teasing and show you why this thing is taking forever. -You should recognize the round do-hickey in the front and the reservoir tube. Slapped on either end of the res is a plexiglas sandwich of over complicated distro plates. To make it even more obnoxious, the front has a 1 1/4" chunk with still more water distribution. Water blocks are currently just vague LARGE cubes. -So some issues: I can't make a lot of the chassis until I get the final height of the reservoir assembly. There's a lot of stacked plastic in there that's going to be much thinner than spec, and I still have to level the ends of the tube cut. A 1 degree difference in angle over a 14" plate would be a lot. I know what you are thinking, This is absurd. :D Well, I had the plastic. ...actually, I had a ton of 3/4", and thought it was 1/2" while drawing, so I had to buy more 1/2"
  17. So I had a thing I coded a while a go and forgot about... -I was playing with the idea of a domed reservoir cap, but the cutting paths were looking pretty bad. I decided to draw them out manually. Here is a series of 1/16" concentric rings, my dome shape, and the orange knobs are a rendition of a 1/4" ball end mill. -3/4" stock, three part flips. -and the first thing I do is get a bit booger. I had a feeling this bit was too short for the job. If the very first hole is a screw-up, then the rest will go smoothly, right? -I changed to a longer bit and finished process one. You can see I scored the top corner for a zero reference point. I did the same on the underside. Time to break it loose and flip it. -The O-ring channel getting cut. Zero mark is visible in the bottom left. -Next I cut an air pocket with a 3/8" ball bit. I only drew one circle, so I decided to cut a little ring around the outside. ...Little did Cheapskate know that this would be a terrible idea. -Flipped again, and the outer edge is getting cut. -1st file of 1/4" ball cuts. 10 circles fr the first 2, then only five for the next 3. -File 3? File one: 10 minutes. File 3: 1 hour. -Look at all the fluff. -File 4: just shy of 2 hours. I cracked the paper thin ring off before continuing. File 5 involved a lot of speeding up to get to something to cut, so it was the only one I had to actually babysit. -Maximum fluff achieved. -All cut, and ready for a sanding. -Here it's roughly polished up to reveal I made... a tit. My subconscious strikes again.
  18. Thanks. I got it done. 6 hours 25 minutes. Annnnd pic: -Part of the extra time was milling out the slotting with an 1/8" bit to ease the stress on the 1/16" bit that finished out the corners. -So I sort of cut them twice. You can see the bracket made earlier in it's future place. Also obvious are an I/O area and a SFF psu hole. There's not much space over the motherboard, is there? -I also made a 2nd clear side panel bracket. Methinks I should get back to the massive reservoir that is a main part of the framing. Building the side panel first will likely lead to sorrow and disaster.
  19. I managed to tear something in my mouse-click finger, so I'm trying to take it easy until I get some feeling back. No, I didn't mess it up mouse-clicking. No, it wasn't a freak proctology exam accident either. -Anyway, that means you get a small, uneventful update. -My 2nd big panel cut. The red marks a narrow spot. Let's just say I found out that tile saw blade was really dull. -Back to the other machine to cut a side panel bracket. It's such a relief after wearing ear plugs for the other machine. The Taig is really solid and only now do I know how much it spoiled me. I even rest junk like lose bits on the pallet as it's cutting. I never thought they might vibrate off, because they don't. -There's going to be a lot of random parts with no context for a while. I need a TON of parts before I can put some of this together. -Here's where I'm at. This back panel is at milling operation one of ten. There's a vent pattern to be added, and it's a nightmare.
  20. At the time ITX was only used for low power systems. Small, high-powered GPU/ITX rigs were just coming in. -And thermaltake are way to cheap to build for future possibilities.
  21. Thanks! :D Yeah, I've seen them toss a stove in the truck, but they whine if the can can't be lifted with one hand. I'm forced to bag one can's worth of trash and divide it into 6 cans. The level of picky is absurd. I could bitch all day. -Especially when I've seen the shady part of the neighborhood put entire houses worth of furniture and trash on the curb. I demo'd 14 soggy un-used sheets, and got rid of one so far. It occurred to me yesterday I never greased the bearings...
  22. I'm fucked. My trash service is progressively becoming unserviceable. First they turned their nose up at smashed up tile, then paint, then wood, now they won't take sheetrock... literally the 2nd softest mineral on the planet. I've seen this pattern before. They must be near the end of their contract. I'm back to trying to build the computer. Tolerances are tighter on it, though. They definitely are more visible. -I spent a little while adding positioning tabs to the model. If you remember, the first batch were a little wobbly. Fortunately, there was plenty of room on the blank I made, like... a year ago. -I somehow managed to match up the part from page one with ol' knobbly here. -Test drive time! I found some great material for making dust guards, coincidentally, it's free bandit-sign season! :D -2nd session here is cutting notches for the tabs. Session 3 took over an hour because I forgot to speed up the machine with the override function. -Bed leveling? Whazzat? I managed to barely touch the spoil board despite just winging it. *flex* -After filing some round corners, I did a quick gluing session. I'm leaving my premium material top un-fused for the time being. I expect I'll break this up and try again some day. -and that's 90% of the GPU area cap. There's still a bunch of squares to fill in the gap opposite of today's set of parts. (oof, that one crooked trapezoid front and center. )
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